A Journey from Bengal to England, Through the Northern Part of India, Kashmire, Afghanistan, and ...

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JOURNEY

FROM

BENGAL TO ENGLAND,

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jrOUMNEY

FROM

BENGAL TO ENGLAND,

THROVCB THE

NORTHERN PART OF INDIA,
KASHMIRE, AFGHANISTAN, AND PERSIA*

AMD INTO

RUSSIA BY THE CASPIAN-SEA.

BY GEORGE FORSTER,

IN TBE CITIL SBRTICt 09

THB HONOURABLE THE EAST-INDIA COMPANY.

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IN TWO VOLUMES*

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FORSTER'S TRAVELS.

LETTER XIII.

^i"»^

Kashmir Cf 1783.

Dear Sib^

IT is now accessary to call your
attention, already burthenecj, I fear, with no very
pleasant matter, to the subject of Kashmire, and
endeavour to describe the natural beauties of a
valley, which, perhaps, stands unparalleled for
its air, soil, ^.nd a picturesque variety of land-
scape.

The northern path of the Bannaul hill^ m^*
tioned in my last letter, is about one mile and a
half shorter than that of the southern side, not
that this difference arises froip the level of the
low lands of Bannaul and Kashmire, ' but from
the greater declivity of the souther face of the bill.
Yet it is evident, from the precipitated cyrrent

Vol. ij, b

2 fobster's travels.

of the rivers of this quarter of India, that the
valley of Kashmire is considerably more elevated
than the Punjab plains. This height of situation,
surrounded also by mountains, whose lofty sum-
mits are covered with snow, during a great part
of the year> imparts a epldn^Sfl- %a the air of Kash-
mire, which its immediate line of latitude would
not otherwise possess.

Veere Naug was thip first village we halted
at, within the valley, where pur party was strictly
examined ; but, from the respect shewn by all
classes of people to Ziilpbucar Khan, we were
permitted to pass untaxed and unmolested. A
rare usage at a Kashmirian custom-house 1 It
should have been before noticed, that our patron,
from' the lameness' of his hand, and a general
infirm state of body, wafr obtiged to travel in a
Htter ; a species of carriage diffepent from any
steft m tlie soutbem qiiart<ir& of India* The
fFaitae, of fcui^ slight pieces of wood^ is about four
feet and a half long, and three in breadth, with a
bottom of cotton lacing, or split canes, iftter-
woven. Tvro stout l>amboo polei project three
feet from tho end of tli^ frame, and a*e fastened
to its outward sides by iron rings. The extremi-
ties of these bamboos are loosely ccmnected by
folds of tjords, i»to which i^ fixed, by closely
twisting and binding at tiie centre, a thick pole,
three feet long ; and, by these central poles, the

FORSTEl's TRAVELS. 3

litter, or/ as it is here called, the Sampan, is sup-
ported on the shoulders of four men. This con-
veyance, you tfi'ill see, aflfords no shelter against
any incleaieney of weather, which is braved at all
seasons by these men of the tnountains.

In the passage of some of the steep hills, the
Khan was obliged to walk ; and it seemed to me
surprising, that the bearers were able to carry the
litter over them. The Kashmirians, who are the
ordinary travellers of this road, use sandals made
of straw rope, as an approved defence of theic
feet, and to save their shoes. On leaving Sum*r
boo,, I had been advised to adopt this practice,
but, my feet not being proof against the rough
collision of the straw, I soon became lame, and
threw off my sandals. From a glaring defici-^
ency of method, in the arrangement of my rei-
marks, I am often fearful that but faint traces of
a general chain yvill be exhibited. It is not that
my ideas flow so thick and strong, as, in ^on-
^denee of their superior excellency, to contemn
restriction to that obedience to order, which is
so essential to their utility ; it is an habit, perhaps
an idle one, that impels me to note at ihe mo^
ment the train of thoughts which occur ; and it
becomes necessary, I see, to plead this excuse
for having so abruptly dragged in the story of the
khan's litter and my straw shoes, when I shoulc^
Jiave been laying before you sketches of this

V

/

FORSTER's TKAVEtS;

beautiful countrjv which, in the language of Per*

sia, is called Kachmire be Nazeer.f

'. . . »

In the vicinity of Veere Naug is seen, a tor-
rent of water bursting from the side of a mountain
with impetuous force, and immediately forming a
considerable stream, f which contributes, with nu-
merous other rivulets, to fertilize the valley of
Kashmire. On the spot, where this piece of
water reaches the plain, a bason of a square form
has been constructed, it is said, by the emperor
Jehangujr, for receiving and discharging the cur-
rent ; and the trees, of various kinds, which oveiv
spread the borders of the bason, at once give an
ornament to the scene, and 4 grateful shade to
the inhabitants of that quarter, who, in the
summer season, make it'^'pHce of common
resort.

Thf rpad from Veere Naug leads through a
c;ountry, exhibiting that store of luxuriant irha-
gery, which i? produced by a happy disposition of
hill, dale, wood, and water ; and, that these rare
excellencies of nature might be displayed in their
full glory, it was the season of spring, when the
trees, the apple, pear, the peach, apricot, the
cherry and mulberry, bore a variegated load of
blossom. The clusters, also, pf th^ red and white

* "Unequalled.

+ It is called Vheit, orBehat, in the Kashinirian language ;
and, in the Sanscrit; Vetus^,

FORSTEK's TRAvfeLS. 5

rose, with an infinite class of flowering shrubs, pre-
sented a view so gaily decked, that no extraordi-
nary warmtkof imagination was requn*ed, to fancy
that I stood, at least, on a province of fairy land.
Except the mulberry, I do not believe that this
country produces any species of the fruits of
India, and but few of its vegetables ; such is the
change effected within a space of two degrees of
latitude: this sudden revolution of climate cannot
be ascribed to the northern situation of Kash-
mire, which is little more than two hundred miles
from Lahore, where many of the fruits of southern
India come to maturity, but to the surrounding
snowy mountains, and an highly elevated land ;
M'hich the Hindoos say, though very widely, is
three perpendicular miles higher than the Pun-
jab.

On the 26ih of April, at Durroo, or Lurroo, a
small, but very populous town, seven cosses from
Bannaul, where our khan and his suite were hos-
pitably received by the chief, and lodged that
night at his house. Our entertainment, and the
cordial behaviour of the host, made us a general
recompence for the fatigues of the journey ; and
I, in an instant, forgot the pains of my bruised-
feet, in the ple^asant comparison between a com-
modious shelter and the boisterous weather of
the mountains.

On the !27th, at Islaamabad, five. cosses^ n

6 fOltSTER's THA^ZL^.

large tow^n, situate cm the north side of the
liver Jaluni, which is here springing frotei the
tnountains, or penetrating them in narww open-
ings. At this place the Jalum, oyer M^hich a
wooden bridge is built, is about eighty yards
across, and, from tte kvel surface of the country,
has a gentle current. Our party, this /evening,
hired a boaft to proceed to the city, and had gone
more ihan five mites, wb^ a, written order ar-
rived, in an. evil hour, requiring us to return and
. remaiK) at Islaamalmd, until a passport should be
obtained from the court. This check infused a
general gloon^, and rendered our situation, alrea-
dy confined and irksome, almost comfortless-
The boat, a very small one, was scantily covered
with a slender mat ; and the wind, current, and a
heavy rain, had set in against us. The rain con-
tinued iocessantly the whole night ; and, though
my bedding was drenched with rain, I received
no injury from having lain on k several hours.
After expressing my gratelfulacknowledgemenis
to a hale constitution, I am induced to ascribe a
great share of the prevention of sickness on this,
as on other occasions, to the frequent use of
lobacco, which manifestly possesses the property
of defending the body against the impression of
damps and cold, or impure air j which,, from the
thick rariges of wood and hills, is tainted with
noxious vapours, produces fevers of a malignant

kind ; and I am proropted to attribute the good
health I eDJoyed in those parts^ to the commoa
habit of smoakiiig tobacco.

Our party was greatly surprised at the receipt
of this very uoseasonable mandate, as we h^,
during the day, occupied ^ne of the most public
places of the town, where n>ost of the principal
people visited Zulphucar Kban, supplied him
with provisions, and were apprized of his inten-
tion to depart in the evening* But it had been
issued, I believe, by the governor of the town, in
resentment of the khan s not visiting him ; and
operated with a quick force on .the minds of all
the men, and even the children of Islaamabad,
who, but the short day before, from treating us
with a studied kindness, would now pass our
quarters without a notice. In every r^ion of the
earth, the Iqss of power, nay, the trivial crosses
of life, too often cause the desertion of those,
whom the lan^ruage of the world has entitled
friends ; but, the averted looks of the prince are
ever faithfully copied by the courtiers. The dis-
graced courtier of Asia, or he against whom the
frown af the despot shall be pointed, becomes
immediately infected, and all men, by intuitive
ijnowledge, it should seem, shun him. A retreat
is rarely made by an Asiatic statesman, who
usually closes his political career in a -dungeon,
or on tt ^caffold^

• ^ forstbr's travels;

• 4-

lift Asia, the principles of justice, honour, or
patriotism, as they confer no substantial benefit,
nor tend to elevate the character, are seldom
seen to actuate the mind of the subject, who is
constitutionally led to fix the tenure of life and
propierty, and fame, on the will of his prince.
Zulphucar Khan informs me, that the chief of
Kashmire, though a youth, stands in the foremost
rank of tyrants; and, that the exactions of a
Hindoo custom-house will soon be forgotten in
the oppression of his government. The one, he
said, affects a trifling portion of property; the
other, involves fortune aqd life.

Two or three days after our arrival at Islaama-
bad, the Dewan> or principal officer of the gover*
nor of Kashpiire, encamped in our vicinity ; and,
being acquainted with Zulphucar Khan, obtained
permission for the procedure of our party to the
city. It is here necessary to observe, that no
person, , except by stealth, can enter or depart
from Kashmire, without an order, marked with
the seal of government. The Dewan, attracted,
I suppose, by the appearance of so white a per-
son, made some enquiry into the nature of my
occupation and views. I told the old s^ory of a
Turk travelling towards his country, with the ad-
dition, that, to avoid the Sicque territory, I had
taken the route of Kashmire, where I hoped to
experience the benefit of bis protection. My

1

FORSTER^S TRAVELS. 9

story was favourably heard, and I received a very
cordial assurance of every necessary assistance.
Our party being directed to attend the Dewan,
and to form a part of his domestic suite, we pro-
ceeded by water, on the afternoon of the 3d of
May, to Bhyteepour, nine cosses, a village si-
tuate on the nbrthean bank of the Jalum : the
evening was serene, and the variegated view of
populous villages, interspersed through a plain,
which was waving with a rich harvest, and enli-
vened by the notes of a thousand birds, filled the
mind with harmony and delight.

In the vicinity of Bhyteepour are seen the re-
mains of an Hindoo temple, which, though im-
paired by the ravages of time, and more by the
destructive hand of the Mahometans,, slill bore
evident marks of a superior taste and sculpture.
Kashmire, having fallen a conquest to the fol*,
lowers of Mahomet, at an early period of their
empire in India, when they furiously broke down
every fence which barred the progress of their re-
ligion, felt the full force of a barbarous zeal ;
and its monuments of worship and taste were
thrown to the ground in shapeless piles of ruin.

The Dewan, taking Zulphucar Khan with him,
went, on the 5th of the month, into the interior
part of the country, .and directed me to wait for
him at the town of Pamper, ten niiles further
down the river, where an order was sent for my

K) yOKSTER's TRAVELS.

accommodation. This person, of the Hindoo
sect, possessed a more liberal disposition than is
usually found in an Indian ; though perhaps I am
so much biassed by his indulgent treatment, that
my opinion, may be thought partial, but his de-
portment seemed uniformly benevolent to all
classes of people : with his companions be was
affable and good humoured, he was humane to
his 'domestics, tmd he exercised with a reasonable
temperance the duties of his ofBce.

On the 7th, the Dewan came to Pamper,
whence I went to the city, a distance of seven
cosses, in his boat, which, though in Kasbipire
Tvas thought magnificent, would not have been
disgraced in the station of a kitcl^n tender to a
13engal badgero. The bpats of 'Kashmire are
long and narrow, and are rowed with paddles;
from the stern, which is a little elevated, to the
centre, a tilt of mats is extended for the shelter
of passengers or merchandize. The country
being intersected with numerous streams, naviga-
ble for small vessels, great advantage and conve-
niency would arise to it from the water convey-
ance, especially in its interior, commerce, did not
the miserable policy of the Afghan government
crush the spirit of the people.

The city, which in the ancient annals of India
was known by the name of Siringnaghur, but now
by tliat of the province at large^ extends about

three miles on each side erf* the river Jtiitiin, over
which are four or five wooden bridges, Hnd occu-
pies in some part of its breadth, which is irregu-
lar, :about two miles- The houses, <many of them
two and three stories high, are i^Hghtly built of
brick »nd mortar, with a large intermixture of
timber.- On a staiKiing roof of wood is laid ^
cohering of fine earth, which shelters the building
from Ithe great quantity of snow that falb m the
winter season. This fence -communicates an equal
w>armth i« winfter, as a refi'eshing coolness in the
hummer season, when the tops of the houses,
which ate planted with a variety of flowers, cx-
btoit at a distance the spacious view of a beauti-
fully chequered paTterrc. The streets are narrow,
and choaked with the filch of the inhabitants, who
are proverbially unclean. No buildings are seen
in this city worthy of remark; though the Kash-
mirians toast much €>( a wooden mosque, called
the Jumah Mussid,* erected by one of the empe-
rors of HiinJostan ; but it's claim to distinction is
ifery moderate.

The subahdar, or governor of Kashmire, re-
sides in^ fortress called Sliere Ghur, occupying

* Jumah is the sabT)ath of the Mahometans, and Mussid
the name of a public place of worship. In pre-eminence,
the principal place of prayer in Mahometan cities is termed
Jumali Mussidt

12 POaSTER^S TRAVELS.

•

the south-east quarter of the city, where most of
his officers and troops are also quartered;

The benefits which this city enjoys of a mild
salubrious air, a river flowing through its centre,
of many large and commodious houses, are essen-
tially alloyed by its confined construction, and the
extreme filthiness of the people. The covered
floating baths, which are ranged along the sides
of the river, give the only testimony of conve-
niency or order ; such baths are much wanted by '
the Indian Mahometans, who, from the. climate
and their religion, are obliged to make frequent
ablutions; and, in preventing the exposure of
their women on these oc.casions, to adopt labo-
rious precautions.

Th5 lake of ^ashmire, or, in the provincial
language, the Dall, long celebrated for its beau-
ties, and the pleasure it affords to the inhabitants
of this country, extends from the north-east
quarter of the city, in an oval circumference of
five or six miles, and joins the Jalum by a nar-
row channeV, near^the suburbs. On the entrance
to the eastward is seen a detached hill, on which
some devout Mahometan has dedicated a temple
to the great king Solomon, whose memory in
Kashmire is held in profound veneration.

The legends of the country assert, that Solo-
mon visited this valley, and finding it covered,
except the eminence now mentioned, with a nox-

FORSTER^S THATEL8. IS

ious water, which had no outlet, he opened a
passage in the mountains, and gave to Kashmire
its beautiful plaips. The Tucbt Suliman,. the
fiame bestowed by the Mahometans on the bill,
forms one side of a grand portal to the lake, and
on the other stands a lower bill, which, in the
llinduee, is called Hirney Purvet, or the green
hill, a name probably adopted from its being co«
vered with gardens and orchards.
' On the summit of the Hirney Purvet, the
JC^shptiirians have erected a mosque to the honour
of a Muckdoom Saheb, who is as famous in their
tales, as Thomas-a-Becket in those of Canter-
bury. The men never undertake a business of
moipeot without consulting Muckdoom Saheb ;
mid when ^ Kashmirian woman wants a handsome
husband or a chopping boy, she addresses her
prayer tq the ministers of this saint, who are said
to seldom fail in gratifying her wish. The north-
ern view of the lake is terminated, at the distance
of twelve miles, by a detached range of moun*
tains, which slope from the centre to eaeh angle ;
$tq,d irom the base, a spacious plain, preserved
in constant verdure by numerous streams, extendi
with an easy declivity to the margin of the
water.

In the centre of the plain, as it approaches
the lake, one of the Delhi emperors, I believe
Sh^h Je):ian, copstriicted a spacious garden,

s.

/

\

14 FORSTBJi's TAATBL&

V

I

called the Shalimar, which is abundantly stored
ivith ifuic tree& and flowiering shrubs. Some of
the rivulets Yshkh intefsedt the plain, arekd into
a canal at the back of the garden, and flowing
through its centre, or ! occasioaally thrown into
a vaviety of water-^ works, . compose the chief
beauty of the Shaliniar. To decorate this spot,
the Mogul princes of India have displayed an
equal magnificence and tast^; especially J/ebaH
Cheer, who; with the enchanting Noor Mahl,
Blade Kashniire his usual residence during the
summer months, and largely contributed to im-r
prove its natural advantages. On arches thrown
over the canal, arc erected, at equal distances^
four or five suites of apartments, each consisting
of a saloon, with four rooms at the angles, where
the followers of the court attend, and the servants
prepare sherbets, coffee, and the Hookah. Tlie
frame of the doors of the principal saloon, is com-
posed of pieces of a stone of a black colour, streak--
ed with yellow lines, and of a closer grain and
higher polish than porphyry. They were taken,
it is said, from an Hindoo temple, by one of the
Mogul princes, and esteemed of great value.

Tii E canal of the Shalimar is constructed of ma-
sonry as far as the lower pavillion, from whence
the stream is conveyed through a bed of earth,
in the centre of an avenue of spreading trees, to
the lake, '^ which, with other streams of a lessee*

FOISTEB's TtfilTSILirr 15

note^-il 8uppKesand refreshes. The other sides of
the lake a^e occi^pied by ^rdens of an inferior
fkscripcion^ } Ijhough two of them, the property of
the govermii^nt, desecue a distinct notice for their
size andi pleasant appearance ; the Baugh Nusseena^
lying on the nortb^west^ and the Baugh Nishat,^
pn t\ie south-east quarter of the Shalimar* The
numerous small islands emerging from the lake,
have also a happy effect in ornamenting the scenes
One of asquare form is called the Char Ghinaur,**
from bafing at each of the angles a plane-tree;
Imt one of them, and a pavillion that was et^ected
itt the centre,^ has gone to decay, as have all their
inonuments of the M^^ids^ except the Shalimar,
^hich is preserved in good order, and is oftem
visited by the governor, whom I have seen there,
ivitb his otlicers and the priiKripal inliiabitants of
the city. Since the dismemberment of Kashmire
fr6fq the em^pire of Hindostan, it has been subject
to the Afghans,! who possessing neither the genius
nor liberality of the Moguls, have suffered its ele-«
gant structures to crumble into ruins> and to
hold out against them a severe testimony of tlie
barbarity of their nation.

Amir Khan, a Persian, one of the late gove-^
nors of Kashmire, erected a fortified palace oa

♦ The oriental plane.

4 TlkiS e?eQt probably hap]}eneU about the year 1754*

I

16 P01STEX.*S TRAVELS.

the eastern side of the lake ; but the materials
have been so unsubstantial, that though of not
more than eight years standing, it cannot new .
nvjth safety be inhabited. He used to pass much
of his time in this retreat, which was curiously
adapted to the enjoyment of the various species
of Asiatic luxury; and Ije is still spoken of in
terms of aflTection and regret ; for, like theih, he
was gay, voluptuous, and much addicted to the
pleasures of the table. There is not a boatman
or bis wife that does not speak of this Khan with
i^pture, and ascribe to him a once abundant
livelihood. This governor, like many of bis pre-
decessors, trusting in the^ natural strength of his
province, and its distance from the capital^ re-r
belled against his master. "^ The force sent against
him was small and. ill appointed, and might have
been easily repelled by a few resolute ihen sta-
tioned in the passes. But in the hour of need,
be was abandoned by the pusillanimous fickle
Xashmirians, who reconciled their conduct to the
Persian, by urging, that if he had remained iq.
Kashmire, he would have converted .them all to
the faith of Ali, and cut them off from the hope,
of salvation. A Kashmirian must have beec^
grievously embarrassed to justify his conduct,
when he ascribed it to any principle of religion ;

^ Timiir Shah, the reigning emperor of the Afgkai^.

RORfTf It's TJATPfiW* }7

for he iff 4. flu^ap, a Mftb^n^t^^ apfl wpu^^ I?13'-
copie a CfaristiaB )f a>prie9t were ^ h^nd^ ^cc<^dr
ii^ to the fashion griii^r^sf of thf^ day.

The environs oCthe tpwp, to th/? Q^st and we3t,
$^e laid out in pr j va^^ gard^^ns, whu;b^ 9^i;*tipg the
}>wks of the Jalum, or supplied v^ith c^m\» frongi
i^e l^ke, afford a various retre^ of {{I/easure to th^
tflhabita^ts. The plaacrtrei^i that spepi/es termed
the jpi^tanqs Orientalis, i§ cQmfnpoly cultivated ia
K^^houre^ wli^ere it is |said to ^riy$ at a gre^tqr
pier&ction than in oj^her cpqpt^i^. This tree^
wi^ich in piost parts of Asia is cf^ll^d the Chipaur^
gi^ows: to the size of an oa^ and ha^ ^ taper
ptraight trun)c, wiib a sUver-^^louirpd j^rk ; and
itslieafi Bpt unlike s^p fixpf^ni^f^ handy is of apalf
gpeen. When in fy\i foljag?, it bfts p, grand ftnd
be^ptiful fippearance^ and in the bpt^ vveii^th^r i%
affords^ a r^firft^hing ^h^d^. ^i:^^,! n^ay .v<^turfi ,^0
jclassf m the ftrst raoJ^ pf vBge^a]i>lp ^r94^J<?<e, ;t^
rose of KaslMi)ife, yuhiqha: fqr. i^,,]^^ftncy ^
d^iqacy ^f ftdpur, b^lPPg bfifJB ptioyprl^fftt in thp
CRSV; ftpd its essepji^Ii oil <a p^t^r ia^ieW ipupj^
versQl eatiin^tipo, ."JSw. ^efM59nk .#♦»- ^\m iffm
.£ra^{)f)§QB into Wo^aois, j? wl^AtJld 1?Hfe ffipch

tQ; the adjacent garc|ensr and. enteE into 'scenes of
gaiety and pleasure, rarely known among other
Asiatic riatioi)?. There, aH that exterior gri^vity
vrhich constitutes a grand part of ;|))^ jki^f^j^tsui
Vol. II. c

• ___

characteiv is thrown aside ; and the Turk, Arab,
and Persian, .as if fatigued with exhibiting the
serious and' guarded deportment of their own
country, give a licentious scope to their pasisions.

The valley of Kashmire is of an elliptic form,
tind extends ^ about ninety miles in a winding di-
rection from the south-east to the north-^west It
^widens gradually to Islaamabad, where the
breadth is aboat forty miles, which is continued
with little variation- to the town of Sampre,*
whence the mountains, by a regular inclination to
the westward, come to a point, and divide Kash-
mire fraiA the territory of MuzzufTerabad. To
the north and tiorth'^east, Kashmire is bounded
by what is here tertaed the mountains of Thibet .
a branch, I apprehend, of that immense range^
which rising nt^ar the Black Sea, penetrates through
Armenia, add starting the south shore of the Cas«
pian, extendi^ through th^ north-east provinces of
Persia, to Tl^ibet and China. On the south-east
and south,' it iii! bounded by Kishtewar, and oh
the souljif-Wtist^ and west, by Prounce,f Muzsuf^^
^r^dtd%iid'Sdmei>ther independent districts
^ T)^E Jfeilui4'^%he* western^ of the Punjab river^
havifig rec^ted^the numerous rivulets of the

* A lK)ut tjifcnty.pve miles ta the westward of the city,
f TtitoiigV.tiiis' district lies the pass of Beoiber, mintttely

"• •

forster's travhls. 19

valley, and the overflowing water of the lakes,
becomes a spacious stream, and is discharged
through the mountains near the town of Bara-
moulab^ where its current, from the declivity of
the land, runs with rapid force."^ AtBaramoulah
the Kashmiri ans say, Solomon rent the moun^
tains, and gave a passage to the waters, which
from the beginning of time bad floated on their
plains.

About eight miles to the westward of the city,
the Jalum is joined by a small river, called the
Chote, or little Scind, which I was informed, by a
Kasbmirian Pundit, arises in the Thibet moun^
tains, and is the only stream not- produced within
/the valley.^ Previously to the Mahometan con-
quest of India, Kashmire was celebrated for the
learning of its Bramins, and the magnificent con-
struction of its temple. The period of its subjec-
tion to the Mahometans is not recorded in any
history that I have seen ; but we may believe, that
a country, containing a valuable commerce and
a profusion of natural beauties, would, at an
early date, have attracted their notice and in-
vited their conquest. It was governed, in a long
series of suqcession, by a 4Face of Tartar princes>
oftheChqg or Chugatay^ tribe, until the year
1586, when Acbar subdued it : aide4 more, it is

* SeeBernieir

c 2

4P fO^STSa's TEAVXLS«

si^c|» by intrigue, than tbe force of his anasi
Kashmire remained annexed to the bouse of
Timur for the space of one hundred and sixty
yeans ^^r which it was betrayed by the Mogul
governor, to Ahmed Shab Duranny, wiio formed
it into a province of tbe Afghan empire.

The valley of Kashmire has generally a iat
sur&ee, and being copiously watered, yields
abundant crops of rice, which is the, common
food iA the inhabitants. At the base of tbe sur-
rounding hilH where tbe land is higher, wheats
barley^ and various other grains are cultivated^
A superior species of aafficon is also produced in
this proirtnce,^ and iron of an excellent quality is
fouad in the adjacent mountains. But the weakk
aiid fiu[ne of Kashmire have largely arisen from
tbe manufacture of shauls> which it holds un*
rivalled, and almost without participation. The
wool of the shaul is not produced in the country^
but brought from districts of Tbibet, lying at the
distance of a month's joujpney to the north-east
It is origijMtlly of a dark grey colour, and is
bleached in Kashmire by tbe help of a certain
preparatign of rice flour. The yam of this wool
is stained with such coIoiufs a& may be judged tbe
best suited for sale, and after being woven tbe
piece is once washed. The border, which usually
displays a variety of figures and colours,is attached
to tlxe sbauis after fabrication ; but in so nice a

FOBSTElt^S TRAVELS. 61

maaner, that the junction is not discernable.
The \exture of the shaul resembles that of th«
sbaloon of Europe, to which it has probably com-
munieated the name. The price, at the loom,
of an ordinary shaul, is eight rupefes, thence, in
proportional quality, it produces from fifteen to
twenty ; and I have seen a very fine piede sold at
forty rupees the first cost. But the value of this
commodity may be largely enhanced by the intro*
duction of flowered work ; and when you are in*
formed that the sum of one hundred rupees is oc^
casionally given for a shaul to the weaver, the
half amount may be fairly ascribed to the or^
naments:

A FOitTioN of the revenue of Kashmire is
transmitted to the Afghan capital in shaul goods^
which I had an opportunity of se6ing previously
to the dispatch, and from the information then
received, I am reasonably confirmed in the ac-
curacy of this statement I have given. The shauls
usually consist of three sizes, two of which, the
long and the small square one, are in common use
inllidia; the other long and very narrow, with
a large mixture of black colour in it, is worn as a
girdle by the northern Asiatic$.

A WINE is made in Kashmire, resembling that
of Madeira, which, if skilfully manufactured by
age, would possess an excellent qilality. A spiri*
^HQus li(^uor is tUsg distilled from thip crape, in

fl^ FQlt3T£K^S TRAVELS.

Mhicb ^nd the mne, the people ^f all kinds freely
indulge.

Th r Kasbmirians fabrioate the best writing
paper of the east, which was formerly an article
of extteusive traffic; as were its lacquer ware,
cutlery, and sugars ;* and the quality of these
manufactures clearly evince, that were the inha-
bitants governed by wise and liberal princes, there
are few attainments of art w hich they would not
acquire. But' the heavy oppressions of the go-
vernment, and the rapacious temper of the border-
ing states, who exercise an unremittipg rapacity
on the foreign traders, and often plunder whole
cargoes, have reduced the commerce of Kashmire
to a declining and languid state. In proof of this
position, the Kashmirians say, that during their
subjection to the Mogul dominion, the province
contained forty thousand shaul lopms^ and that
at this day, there are not sixteen thousand. In
Kashmire are seen merchants and commercial
agents of most of the principal cities of northern
India, also of Tartary, Persia, and Turkey, who,
at the same time, advance their fortunes, and en-
joy the pleasures of a fine climate, and a country
over which are profusely spread the various beaur
ties of nature.

The dress of the Kashmirians consists of a
l^rge turban, awkwardly put on ; a great woollen

* T^c raw sugar is imported from llie Punjab.

fORiXn's TmAVBLS. jB

vest, ivith wide sleeves; and a sack> wrapped* ia
many folds round the middle ; under the vesit^
which may be properly called a wrapper, tb^
higher elass of people wear a pirafaun, or '^hh-t;
and drawers ; but thelower order have no under
garment, nor do they even ^rd up their loins;
On first seeihg these people in their own country",
I imagined, from their garb, the cast of coutte-
nanee, which is long, and of a grave aspect, ;and
tlie form of their beards, that I had come amongst
a nation of Jews. The same idea impressed 'also
Mr. Bernier, who, carrying it further, has a.t-^
tempted, by the aid of some proo& more speK
cious than substantial, to deduce their origin
from the Jewish tribes th^t were carried into
captivity. ^

The dress of the women is no less auk ward:
than that of the men, and is ill adapted to dis^
play the beauties they naturally possess. Tlieif
outward, and, often, only garment, is of cotton,
and shaped like a long lo<5se shirt. Over the hair,
which falls in a single braid, they wear a qlose
cap, 'usually of a woollien cloth, of a crimsoq
colour; and to the hinder part of it is attached
a triangular piece pf the same stuff, wliich, falling
on the back, conceals much of the hair. Around
the lowet- edge of the cap is rolled a small tur-'
ban, fastened behind with a short knot, which"
SPemed to nie thp only artificial ornament abQt^i

84 yOBSTM's TltATBLI.

th^itK, .You Will bfe pleased to ttotioe^ thai I
^peak of the dress of the ordihary women, such
<ihly being permitted to Appear, in public. . The
wbiiien of "ibe higher classes are never seen
abroad ; nor is it consistent with the : usage of
any Mahometan nation-, even .to speak of the
ftoiale part .of a family,

Th£ Kashmirians are stout, well formed, and«
as the natives of a country lyitig in the thirty-
fourth degree of. Ifetitddey may be termed a fair
]Heopile^and their women ia sbuthern France, or
Spain, woiild^ be called Brunettes. But, baying
been prepossessed with ..ah opinion of their
charms, I suffered a sensible disappointment;
though I saw some of the female dancers most
celebrated for beauty, and the attractions of their
t)rofession. . A coarseness of figufe generally pre-
vails amiong them, with broad teatures , and they
too often have thick legs. Though excelling in
the colour of their com^le;cion, they are evidently
surpassed 1^ the elegatlt form and pleasing coun-
tenance of the women of some of the. western
provinces of India.

The city of Kasbmire once abounded nith
courtezans, equally gay and affluent ; but the
rigorous contributions of the Afghans -have greats
ly reduced their number,, and driven most of-
those that remain into a languid poverty. The
few that I saw^ afforded me much pleasure by

their gracefal skill in dancing, and voices pecu-^
liariy mekidious. And here let me observe, least
I shonld afterwards forget, that thq women of
Kashmire are singularly fruitful: be the govern*
ment ^ver so oppressive, or fortune at all points
adverse, no baneful effects are seen to operate oa
the propagation of the species, which is maintain-
ed with a successful perseverance. I will not
presume to investigate the physical cause of a
virtue so copiously inherent in the men and
women of this country; but will simply intimate .
to you, that its waters are well stored with fisl^
which is thought to be a generative stimulus^
and constitutes a principle article of the food t)f
the people,

Th fi language of Kashmire evidently springs
^ from the Sanscrit stock, and resembles, in sound,
that of the Mabrattas, though with more harshness^
wlHeh. has probably induced the inhabitants to
compose their songs in the Persic, or adopt those
of the Pe^rsian poets. Yet, iit despite of the
unpleasant tone of their speech, there is scarcely
a person in the country, from youth to old age,
who has not a taste for music.

The Kashmirians are gay and lively people,
with strong propensities to pleasure. None are
more eager in the pursuit of wealth; have more
inventive faculties in acqumng it, or who devise
more modes of luxurious expense. When a

^ FOSSTElt's TSAVBLS;

Kasbmirian, even of ithe lowest order, finds hiiiii»?
self, in the possession of ten shillings, be loses im
time in assembling his party» and launching int4^
the lake, solaces himself till the last farthing is
^pent. Nor can the despotism of an Afghan
government, which loads them with a various
oppression and cruelty, eradicate this strpng ten-
dency to dissipation j yet their manners, it is
said, have undergone a manifest change, sinc6 tlie
dismemberment of their country from Hindostan.
Encouraged by the liberality aud indulgence of
the Moguls, they gave a loose to their pleasures
^nd the bent of their genius. They appeared itl
gay apparel^ constructed costly buildings, and
were much addicted to the pleasures of the tabid
The interests of this province were so strongly
favoured at the court, that every complaint
against its governors was attentively listi&ned to,
and any attempt to molest the peoplp, restrained
or punished.

1^ the reign of Aurungzebe, when the revenue
pf the different portions of the empire exceeded
that of the present day, the sum collected in
Kashmire amounted to three and a half lacks of
rupees; but, at this time, not less than twenty
lacks are extracted by the Afghan gpvernor, who,
if liis tribute be regularly remitted to court, is
allpwed to execute with impunity every act of
violence. This extreme rigour, has sensibly affect»

FQRSTfiR S TRAVELS. €7 '

cd the deportment iind manners of the Kashmi-
rianSy who shrink with dread from the Afghan
oppressions, and are fearful of making any display
of opulence. A Georgian merchant, who had
long resided in t,he country, gave me the most
satisfactory information of Kashmire. He said,
that, when he first visited the province, which
was governed by a person of a moderatie disposi-
tion, the people were licentious, volatile, and
profuse; but, that since the administration of the
late chief, an Afghan, of a fierce and rapacious
temper, they had become dispirited, their way of
living mean, their dress slovenly, and, though of a
tempeV proverbially loquacious, they were diverse
from communicating ordinary intelligence.

During my residence in Kashmire, I often wit-^
nessed the harsh treatment which the comnlOn
people received at the hands of their niasters,
who rarely issued a'n prder without a blow of the
side of their hatthet, a common weapon of the
Afghans, and used by them in war, as a battle-
axe. Though the inhabitants of this province are
held ijnder a grievous subjection, and endure evils
the most mortifying to human nature, being
-equally oppressed and insulted, the various testi-
monies bropght home to me of their common
depravity of disposition, made me the less sensible
of their distress ; and, in a short time, so faint
was the trace of it on my mind, that I even
judged them worthy of their adverse fortune.

M fobsteil'^ travels*

y

Ix viewing the manners of a people at lar^s^
it were at once a sacrifice of truth, an<J every
claim to historical merit,, to introduce passioipt^
or fanciful colouring; yet the coolest reflectioa
iloes not withold me from saying, that I never
knew a national body of men more impregnated *
with the principles of vice, than the nMives of
Kashmire. The character of a Kashmirian i&
conspicuously seen, when invested with ofiicia4
power. Supported by an authority which pre^.
scribes no limits to its agents, in the accumula*
tion of public emoluments, the Kashmirian dis*
plays the genuine composition of his mind. He
becomes intent on nnmediate aggrandizement
without rejecting any instrument which can pro*
mote bis purpose. Rapacious and arrogant, he
evinces in all his actions, deceit, treachery, and
that species of refined cruelty, which usually lu:-
tuates the conduct of a cowards Atid it is said,
that he is equally fickle in his connections, as im*
placable in enmity. In behalf of humanity, I could
wish not to have been capacitated to exhibit to
disgusting a picture, which being constantly held
out to me for near three months, in various lighti^
but wdth little relief^ impressed me mkh a general
dislike of mankind.

The Kashmirians.are so whimsically curious,
that when any trivial question is proposed to
them, itfi intention aqd purpose is enquired into

with 1^ String of futile inter rogatories, before th^
necessary information is givQp ; and s^ 8(>opkeepec
rarely a^oJca^wledges the pQs$e9sion of a cqriiuo-
4i%yy uQtil l^e i$ apprized o( tl>e quantity requirecl^
Ip ^i^aminiqg the situa^tion ii:^ which th^se people
^avei been placed, with its tr^n of r^iUtii^ ef-
fect^, the specui^p^t^vQ fnoriblijst fvill/perhaps^ discos
ver on^ of the larger 3/9urce« from wh^ffce iki$
f!ia,st of Piftfipers apd dispositiqn ha$ ^fm^ Hq
will p^rc^hie (bfit the sipgulfir posHto^ of tbeir
(pomttjry^ it$ ^im^dim^ 4nd v^usilM^ prQ4uce, with
^l^afffiy cliwtft tepd toejc^ite strong twiinati^fif
tor Ijuj^qry ^ ^efwp^te pleasures ; aEid he i$
ew^r^ that to couQtef ect ^^^H2se% oatuF^Uy teod^
Ukg fa e^rvif ta and corrupt the ne^iodi a systein of
relfg^. o? n^rality i9 oe^essary to inqulcs^te (be
lOY^ <tf wiue, and especially, to impress the
yoiith ^tb ei^i^ly sentinsents of justice and huma«
oity. 9ut h^ will evidently se^ that neither 4he
retigipu3 QfC the nK>ral precepts of the present race
of Mahojoieiei^s contain the principles of recti*
tude or philapthrof)y ; that, on the contrary, they
are taygbl to look with abhorrence on the fairest
portion of the glo^, and to persecute and injure
those ^ho arip oot inclosed in the fold of their
prc^pbet Se^Pg then the Kashmiriaos, presiding
as it were at the fountain head of pleasure, neither
guided or checked by any principle or example of
virtue, he will' not be surprized, that they give e

so t6Rsrt]fe-8 tltAVlSLd.

wide scope to the passions of the mind and the
enjoyments of the body.

AzAD Khan, the present governor of Kash«^
mire, of the Afghan tribe, succeeded his father
Hadji * Kareem Dad, a domestic officer of
Ahmed Shah Duranny, and who was, at the death
of that prince, advanced to the government of
Kashmire, by Timur Shah, as a reward for quel-
ling the rebellion of the Amir Khan, who has been
already mentioned. Though the Kashmirians
exclaim with bitterness at the administration of
Hadji Kareem Dad, who was notorious for his
wanton cruelties and insatiable avarice ; often, for
trivial offences, throwing the inhabitants, ^tied by
the back in pairs, into the river, plundering their
property, and forcing their women of every de-
scription ; yet they say he was a systematical ty-
rant, and attahred'his purposes, however atro-
cious, through a fixed medium. They hold a dif-
ferent language in speaking of the son, whom they
denominate the Zaulim Kham, a Persic phrase
which expresses a tyrant without discernment ;
and/ if the smaller portion of the charges against
him are true, the appellation is fitly bestowed.
At the age of eighteen years, he has few of the
vices of youth ; he is not addicted to the pleasures

/ * Those who have made the pilgrimage of Mecca are termed >

Hadji.

poUstek's TXAVSLS. ' ^i

of the haram^ nor to wine : he does not even
smoke the hookah. But his acts of ferocity ex-
ceed common belief; they would seem to originate
in the wildest caprice, and to display a temper
rarely seen in the nature of man.

That you may form some specific knowledge of
the cba racter of this^ let me call him, infernal
despot, I will mention some &icts which Were
communicated during my residence in the pro*
vince. While he was passing with his court, un-
der one of the wooden bridges of the city, on
which a crowd of people had assembled to ob-
serve the procession, be levelled his musquet at
an opening which he saw in the path way, itnd
being an expert marksman, he shot to death an
unfortunate spectator. Soon after his accession
to the. government, he accused his mother of in-
fidelity to her husband, and in defiance of the
glaring absurdity which appeared in the allegation^
as well as the anxious tntreattes of the woman
who had borne him to save her from shame, she
was ignominiousiy driven from the palace; and
about the same time, oa a like frivolous pretence,
he put-one of his wives to death. A film on one
of his eyes had baffled the attempts of many ope-
rators, and being impatient at the want of suc<-
cess, he told the last surgeon who had been called
lOf that if the disorder was not remedied within ^
limited time, allowing but a few days, his belly

should be cut open; the ooan failed in the aii«^'
aad Az^ Khan verified his threat.

a^These passages were related to me by different
persons, some strangers in the country, otheis^
who from the stations they held, would rathtr
have been induced to speak favourably. Azad
Khan had, in the three first n^ontbs of his go-«i
verament, become an object of such terror to the
Kashmirians, that the casual mention of his name
produced aa instont horror and an involqntary
supplication of the aad of their prophet. Among
the lesser order of bis exactions, but which seeoi'*
ed to me tlie most unpopuHr and discouragtog^
is that levied from the courtezans or^daocing prlSf
who are obliged to account foj? every sum of mcH
ney they receive, and to pay the larger share of it
to the intendant of the police; nor are they al^
lowed to attend at any festival or entertainment;
without the permission of that officer. The rir
gorous treatment of this class oif females, which*
are ever the most pleasing to society,, from tba
indulgence granted to them, has here affected a
grievous change ; for though Kashmire is known
to abound in fin^ women, few are now seea
among the courtezans.

A REVENUE of between -twenty and thirty lacks
of rupees is collected from this province, of which
a tribute of seven la(!ks is remitted to the trea*
$ury of Timur Shak The army of Kashmire^ a

FOBST£<B^S TBAVSL8. : 35-,

part of which I have seen embodied, consists of *
about three thousand horse and foot, chiefly Af* '
ghans^ * who had received little pay for two year^
and many of them, for want of a better subsist-
ence, were obliged to live on the kernel of the
Singerah, f or water-nut, which is plentifully pro-
duced in the lakes of the country.
. In noticing the character of the governor of
Kashmire, which is composed of little else than a-
blind destructive cruelty, you will be surprized
that h^ is not punished or restrained by the court.
But when it is considered that the approach to^
this remote province, leads through hostile or in*,
dependent territories, that Timur Shah is equally

* The natives of this province are rarely seen encaged in a
military occupation, from which their genias seems averse;
^ndlt is held an established rule in the Afghan govemment,
tQ refuse the admittance of a Kashmirian into their army.
The common people usually carry abroad with them in the
winter season an earthen stove, which, hanging near the thi/;h,
g^ves it a scorched appearance ; and by this mark a Kashmi*
rian is discovered, should be by stealth endeavour to enlist. -
The sling, in the use of which they are expert, seems to be
their favourite weapon, and enables them, with little variation,
to oppose an adversary at a distance, and from places of. se«
c^rity.

t The Singerah also constitutes a gfeat portion of the
food of the lower class of the natives, and the exclusive privi<«
lege of vending it, yields annually about twelve thousand
pounds to the government*

Vol. II, D

^*

54 rO&SlrER''s TRAVB]^

withheld from distant enterprize by the ^ccamth
lated arrears^ and coD9e(|uent weakness of bia.
cgjmy, to which may be added the fear of doooca^
tic treason^ ^d a nativie indojkaGe of temper^ ^
sufficient cause will be se^n for bis passive regandk
to the interior governiBent of Kasbmire- Godi^:
tenting himself with the tribute^ be is selcbm disN-
posed to Gonfiroul tbecoodact o£ a reoQ«tego-\
iiernor. I am to express a regret^ that pceviousljp
'to.my. roate^ I had not perused the aecuraAe and.
candid mon^x^s of Mr* Bernier^ who stands, lii tbe:;
first rank, of writers oo Indian histocyr yeV
should this ctM^sory i elation tbroiw any light on hi&
djeficription o£ Kaabmir^ as IWdy as it is^j^^ bsf.
filling up achasm^ or marking the changes which
have happened since his day^ I shistll hold it in
SQm^, estiipatipHp and consider any inconveniency;
which might h^ve a^isep from, my 'jowrn^y thithei>
honourably reqiiited; Mr. Beraier enjoyed ad-
vantages which have fallen to the lot of few
A^UjQ traveUerSy apd, fortiK^f^tely for the karnecl
worlds bis takntts amiply improved tbem^. ife
travelled into Kashmire in* the suite of Danish-
mund Khan, a favourite Onn-ah of Aurungzebe,
w]pp,;h£^ing a ta^tc; for< science and letter^ encou-
raged this ing^niou^ Frenchman to attentively in-
vestigate the great variety of its curious produce.
He ha3 also described the causes of that impor-
tant revolution, which raised Aurungzebe- to the

forstekV travels! H

tTirdne of riindostdti. As* Ke was persoiially en*
gaged' in the scene of action, aricf an eyi' witnes'^
<)f* many of the principal everitd, all* which d*rt '
i^latecf in a sirhple inte'reVting larigiiag^,' t eai*-
nesiiy recomrtiend to you a' ditigelfif purusal of
£is instruclive aliid' judicious hoolli. This wilier
liavin^ cliieffy associated witli Mahometahs, who'
anvariabiy possess an absokife abhorrence' of iKe
rfetigidh of the BPindoosT, and" being destitute of
the! projJer documents for tKe>esearch, hie has ri'dtf
Been equally successful' in his explanation of the
prmcipfes and spirit of the ^inidoo dbcfrines,
and it is only in that discussion 1 presume tcV
doiiht the opinions of IVfr. Bernier. After cld-
sing'tliis dissertation on Kasj^mire, you must'per-'
mit me to relate niy desultory adventureViii thaV
country^

* Ok my arrival at the city^ t was accbnirifodatea
with an apartment in the house of Zulphiicar
£lHan, and seteing him of so respectable d cha-'
racter, and dispbsed to do me kihdriess,^ I haci
resolved to remain there ; but my servant^ th^
same person who had set upon the" at jfumbd, dls-'
covered me to the family to whom he knew I half
brought introductory letters, and b^irig urgently'
pressed, not to say pestered,* tdlddg^at tBe bouse'
of" a Shdch littrza, the brother of my JuiiiBo*
host, Twas forced' out of the friendty roof* of thfe'
Jthan, whom I shall ever rememlief with" affe^itiCft*

PS

96. forster's travels.

and esteem. His father having filled high stations
in the upper part of India^ at the period of the
Afghan and Sicque invasions, Zulphucar Khan,
who was himself present at some of the actionSj^^
bad acquired a conversant knowledge of the nao-
tives that actuated the different parties ; and hia
remarks on the various events of those times, from
which r derived much useful information, denoted
a sound discerning judgement, little heated by
prejudice, or fettered by those narrow precepts
which usually sway the mind of a Mahometan.
He strictly observed the ceremonies of his reli-
eion, which were performed with an apparent con-
viction of their rectitude ; and though he daily
saw my. remission of the customary worship of his
family, he neither remarked or censured it.

At Sheich Mirza's I was received with splen-
did offers of friendship, and all that farrago of
protestation, the common burden of of Asiatic
language, which goes for nothing. The truth
was, the brother at Jumbo had represented me. as
a wealthy merchant, who would produce great
profit to the house : and this object deluged me
at the first meetings with compliments, which
commenced with embracing my legs, and ended
in washing my beard in rose water. Nor did he
cease to load me with k series X)f disgusting atten-
tions, until I told him that my business obliged
me to proceed, without delay, tp Kabul. The

..■■•• f **

FORSTER's TRAVEtS.^ 37

*

arrival of a merchant from Con$tantin6pte com-
pleated my relief; for then the Sheick had no
leisure to say a civil word to any one, and seeing,
iiideed, that my residence promised no emolu^-
ment to the house, he would without ceremony
have turned me out of it, had another Turk ap-
peared. «

' r

As there are no karavanseras in Kashmire, .
commercial strangers are lodged with their bro-
Iseri^, who, finding an account in affording such
accommodation, are gejneraliy possessed of large
and convenient habitations. A Georgian, who
occupied the room next to mine, and was a very
agreeable neighbour, did not, I observed, give a
r^ady credit to my story, which he cross-examined
iwith some tokens of suspicion; and, one day,
having desired to look at my head, he decidedly
pronounced it to be that of a Christian. But he
became alarmed, when I cautioned him, in a
eerious tone, to be less haiBty in forming so dan-
gerous an opinion ; for he must know, that tq
bestow such an appellation* on a believer of the
true faith, was a grievous offence in a Mahometan
country. Iv^ a future conversation with the'
Georgian, be explained to me, and proved by
comparison, that the head of a Christian is broad
behind, and flatted out at the crown; that a

• Nazarene is ^ term of bittw reproach among th<5 noy th^rii..
l4^on(^tan;9ft

SB forster's travels,

lik^*^ njo9^^^^^ a cfifiic fprm. This Gepf^iiW)

was associated in trade with one of his country-
men, then residing at Benares, and seeing tljiat he
viewed me witlji mi^tf ust. tlje cpmjniipicatjojj ^f
which mUjSt have hacj m^schieyqu^ effects, I jydged
it prudent to disclose my true story ; prenaisina
with an assurance, that should treachery, or his
indi&cretion bring on m£ any mischance, his estate
af Benares wpuljd Ijeconj^e forfeit, ^n^ \\\f persftu
9f ^i^ poipR^PJpn exposed Jo pjjnjsjifp^ept, ; Tfij?
^nSMaopj §!4pppr^ed by ^ (Jjsfipsjtjpp n^tur^Uy
ijpqoufable, pf|§.ur,e.d l)i5 ?e.a!pys aj^ftcjifpeot, frpfrj
lyhjc,^ I jj!5rfye4 pi^ny ys^s, <}urin« ipy 8t?iy jq

j^i? Pew^p, vv-bpip I fl^ily attpndefl, s^ill c'pn-
tinu|pd bis fpfin^i- Jfipdp^^s, an^, agreeably tp hjs
Pf^ipjgp, SQljqjp4 ^ipr we thp goyprflor's pernH?-
sj.oo to If^ve jhp prpvince. f he jneniprial, pi'g-
seplpd by |bp Pewan, set fortji, that ^ Turk,
^bo hftd ppwp fiprp ^ifldpstan, was desirous of
BW?'n§. ^it^ twp j^Qf^estics, Ihrougb Ivsishmjr?,
ip hi^ v?i:;f to Cpq^^ptipopje. )yhen thig purpprt
ija^ ip^tj? |fn9*»'9 tQ l?>e, f s^ro^igly fearefl its
f^ifuj-p \ for 5tr^ngpfs fa^jy yj?it Iv^shrjiire for
tbp purpose pf ^Mp^sjjy ^nd ^mu^^rr^eiit ; j^nd, as
i^p §pecibf; pcfiup^^iop \\'^9 ^§prib?d ^p jii?, I
observed to the Pewan that a refusal might be
expected. 3^he app^^ebensiop was wboliy verified,

in Azad Khan's spying, that the Turks Wer6 good
soldierly which he thed wanted, and that be
woald employ tne in his army. It was in vain
the Dewkti represent^ the solicitude of visiting
toy country, whence I had been long absent, alid
that little benefit would acbrue froth tht derviceiS
6f a person under such Constraint. He forbade
the Hindoo, in a voice that made him tfemble
to cease from urging the re^^uest, hit he had
formed an ultimate resolution.

When the Dewan intimated to me the itifoN
mation, I noticed an evident agitation iti hii
eoufitenance ; and, though you may su^f^ose thai
my mind was ill at ease, I forced upoh myself
that species of resignation which is habitual ttr
an Asiatic in his day of trouble, tod gfav^ly
affected to administer a comfort t* the Pewiifi,
which was more wanting to mys^lf^ Vrott thai
moment I never saw him ;• nor did I ever ithpkti
to any one the story of my failure, WfeH Knowing
that, had it become public, no one would ha^0
dared to have given tte asslstate^^ i^t «ten
ihelter, •

On revolving thi diflStrent modes of «iitiiA^
tion from ihifi dilemma^ 1 b^bdught %6elf of
the banker, oa whom I had brciught a draft ft^m

* tliis unfortunate man \vas, I understand, afterwards put
Wdeatb by AaadKlMy ia oo^ e£ bi« waay m<»meDt» of aagjr^*

40 ^ESTE^'s Tft^VELS^t

Jumbo.; and, in the co^irse of a ckiy or ttvo,
I applied to liim for a passport. He very frankly
assured me of his s^rvices^ from which, as .he was
at that time high in the estimation of the gover-
nor, I entertained sanguine hopes of success ;
and, to obviatp the risk; .that might arise frona.
the name of Khuroe, whic^ had been inserted in
the former memqrjal, J now took that of EusufF,
a Mahometan merchant, going on a commercial
adventure to Peshour. But, on the day when
the passport was to have been issued, as if my
evil star bad deterniined to rule, the banker fe^i
finder the displeasure of the despot, which so
wholly derapged hiqci, that my business no longer
occupied bis thoughts. He ha4 been solicited to
advance a considerable loan tp the government,
but, a\^'arc of the risk of such a negociation, be
pleaded inability ; and, the last time I went to
his hpu§e, he was trembling, in an agony of fear,
from an apprehension pf Aa^ad Kh^ns resept-r
iPQnt.''^

In treating of the gpvernment pf Ii;a"shmire,
I omitted to mention, that it had not, hitherto,
eictended its apprehension to merchants, who,
from the wealth which tb^y introduced into^the
prpvinc^, were respected, »nd even indulged*
The obstacles that stood in the way of my de-

* He was, at a future period ^I^'am infofined,' put to death

by the Afghan,

I

t

foester's 'Travels.- 41

par tare now became seriou3y fmd gave me mucb
anxiety. I was thrown ioto thfe power of «:
capricious tyrant, under a semblance, also, whith/
if discovered^ might be fatal ;, and I was pre-
cluded, by the late occurrence, from a personal
application to the court. Endeiavouring to re,*
inove the appearance of chagrin, I entreated the
Georgian, who has been mentioned, to expedite
uciy departure, though without communicating any
part of the former failures ; only observing, that
the multiplicity of, business necessarily engrossing
the attention of the Dewan, of whose friendship
for me he had been apprised, prevented me from
giving him further trouble. The business was
undertaken with a zealous alacrity; and, by an
unremitted attendance of fifteen days, aided by a
small bribe, was accomplished. Having hired a
horse from a native of Peshour, who was return-
ing to that city, and takeh into my service a Per-
sian boy, on the 1 1th of June I left Kashmire,-
and my honest Georgian friend.

The river Jalum, at the distance of ten miles
from the city, is formed, by the hollow surface of
the country, into a sheet of water, of seven or
eight miles in circumference, cdled, in* the K^sh-
-mifian language, the WuUer, which bas a gentle
southern current, and is gradually contracted aa
the land rises.
. 0^ "the pjorning of the 12 tb, arrived at Som-

4% 90RtTfiit'« mjLvuhni

pre^ nine coeses, a populous towtk imi the ea:stmi
0ide of the Jalum, where the passport was depo-
fiited) and another issued. After a halt of three
hours, which were chiefly employed in repairing the
riding^tackle, which was all of cordage, bridle, stir-
raps, and girth, I proceeded, in company with Mo«
kubuHab, the proprietor of the steed, and Bussing
the Persian boy, to the small village of Markdre,
a stage of tei^ cosses^ MohubuUah nmde a good
travelling pillaw, of which the bones were picked ;
and, pluming myself on having outwitted the go-
vernor of Kashmire, I went to sleep, in an adja*
cent mosque, with a light heart.

On the ISth, at Hourree Dana, four cosses^
an hamlet^ situate three miles within the boun-*
dary of the province. The night being cool, I
bad thrown over my bed-clothes a c6at, in the
pocket of which was deposited the passport;
when, in an evi) hour, just as I was beginning to
awake, a thief snatched my coat, and made his
escape. Had the coat been of any other 'colour
than red, it would not, I believe, have attracted
the marauder's notice; but a spark of vanity,
many of which have hghted me into scenes of
trouble, prompted the purchase of this gaudy
garment, which before had been <iften stared at,
I mentioned to the officer, in charge of thef pasa
at the boundary, the affair of the tbeic, and the
lt>8a of ihe passport, %q the tr\i^ of #ich- Mohu^

^x4^ ii}^ M^W ^uown, the ^ei4« »*¥«' uttered
a *t#^ty.- ^Lu^in M^ ^ww^, Ji^y tl^ [^^4 of his
^thier. ^ T(iP trjath^lh^ fpc^. The o^er, who ^
Vj^^ ^.eL^h^lrmy bpaf^ th» «tory wjth ♦ gravf
covwi^pi?ai)(^, ^d, Ippjppg ^ if hP did not. belienre
^ wprd of it, m^, jb^t I ipu^ procurit aDotfier
p^a^port. Seeipg thp.t wof ds naftde /jo impression

9» M» yml^nt g^^x4m of bi^ pp«, (M?hicb it
WfwJd Nve swrpn^d u^^ if they h^d,) I secretly
tjjgpd^r^d hiw * few .r«pe^3* fpr his good will^
ThP fight pf tbP WPP^y prpfiuc^d i3in immediate
effect on pyery feqitur© pf his facje, ^vbich, 3ofter)N
u)g iwtQ ft srijilp of ^ojpliQpce, I' moved on.
O^r p^Fty b^d not proceeded three hundred
yard?! wheji four rn^u were pfrc^ived running
aftpr us with great ^peed, aod, ia a- Jqud voice,
Qrdpripg n^ tp bajt. On coming up they 6ei?ed
j|ie, aUedging I wa§ a §tate criminal, whom they
v^erp directed to convey to the city ; i^^or did I
escape from their hands, until I had applied the
argument which had before opened the gate, but to
a much larger amount. Husgin, ^^ ho had ^een the
passport, and witnessed the theft, expressed a^tQ-*

. ^* The rupee is the current coin of Kashmire, ar^ that
fttruok at Movadabad, in Robilcund, ia hM id the gn^^t^^l
estiin^ioa, frppi iW baf ept ss^ gf rh^ §ilve^, 9. l^rge discou^^^
i| ^lloxYcd o\^ that of ^«Cashmire. Copper money of l^he value
of a halfpenny, and cowreys, a small marine shell, compose
the Qi^ cu|JK^acy of tUis p«Qvifii.Cf «i -

4* ybltSTEH's TttAVELsT

nishment at the lar^ness of the sum, and accused
me of extravagant folly. But he did not know
the caut^ of my aversion to a public examination.'

Oisr the 14th, at Doumbah, fifteen cosses^, a-
small village dependant on the chief of Muzzuf-.
ferabad. The limit of Kashmire on this quarter
is terminated by a low thick wood^ the edge of
which is skirted by a rivulet, and, on the other
»de rises a lofty chain of mountains, stretching to
the north and south, whose summits are in some
parts, now, covered with snow, a deep tract of
which I crossed. The inhabitants of the Muz-
zufferabad districts, denominated fiombaus, are
Mahometans of the Afghan tribe, and inimi-
cal to the' Kishmirians, who, under the father of
the present governor, had laid their territory
waste. The rumour of another invasion prevail-
ing at this time, I was strictly examined, but
the management of Mohubullah, with a small
donation, gave us an unmolested progress. The
face of the country exhibits a continued view of
mountains, On the side of which are seen patches
of cultivated ground and scattered hamlets of
threp or four cottages.

On the 15th, at Nousere, twelve cosses, part
of the road bendeid over the brow of a steep and
craggy mountain, at the foot of which a river,
which here takes the name of MuzzufFerabad,*

* The proper name of this rivef is the Kisl^en Gung^«

FORST^a*S TBAVELf. 4f

runs with eictreme rapidity ; and breaks upoD tb^
numerous iqsul ated rpckj^ tbat iqterrupi^ its .pa^
sage, with a. noise of thunder., , . *

On the l6tb, at Pauncb-Graum, six cpsses,
the road was, still more difficult of passage than
that of yesterday. The oiquntain being .in sooiQ
places so steep, th^t projecting beams are fixed
intp its ^ide, to support a path, of planks, for the
.accommodation of foot piis^e^^ers ; horses ^are
sent hy another tract. Xhi^^ path hath be^n lal^ly
repaired,., put of the ^ayipgs pf charity, by a Ma-
hometan mendicant, \ who had, also, in a recess
of the hill, erefrted a small building for the refresh*
ment of travellers. It being one of these few acts
of publi^ benefit, within the compass of niy knpwr
},edge, performed by this class of menf I deem
the communication a matter of conscience ; fcn^
l[oo frequent occasions of reprobating them have

already' offered. , ►

On the. l/th, at Muzzufferabad, tencosses,
a town standing on the eastern bank of tlie Kishen
Gunga,* small, , but populous,, at\d the residence
of a chief ehtitied Sultaa Mahinoud, who afte;:,

'. - ' . : . '

* The K^ben Gunga turts^iere, to tfi^ left, .vitb a a^^t^,
Nearly south-west, an.d fall8> I was informed, into the Jaluiny
i&non^'the indulitirns, at^fbe' hJad of rKc Punjab. liaW
mo^jpeofile crams' thia river^ on au intlatedr. sbei^f^ or dog^t
ttkiBi which, f^ppo^^ipg the h^d and breast of the passeogar,,
is impalled an4 guided by the motion Df his less*

4S6 f6tsftii's fkAiriti.

<!ivi(fiftg th« gt-^sitesf pWtiOn 6t hfe <6rrft<Sfy
alBdrigtlie y(jaflg6f bfstttches dfWfatiitiy, 1^''
served this tOHti, with ei district yI^<fiA^' abdlTf a
feck Of rupees, fof hiS private fliaiW66aricie.

On- the- mofniwg at tixt isth^ t tt'omd' «fe6
fiver, and jofn€(cf a' ^ad kafilisli' pfde^edlng t'6
iPiediDCrr. A fdity bbat tteed a'f this pfade, is fre-
qfaerttljr, by^thC' tibletice of ttte' cgi-fenf anii" a
WdkJ^-sfewe, da^ed' t^ pieces; ahd^bemgnow
h t^' Statd, f pksstd d^er, tfio'u^li with 'inucli
dttfifciftty, a bridge ofV6f)6S, Jtbaiitibo'yartfs'm
ferigth. A &tttot rOJiie; fasteiied' to Wbbd^ir JJosfs;
On 6ffh6f shor^, hasatta^efaedt'oitac^rtam iium-
< ftef of carved pWes of wood; in the' foi'ih ot «*e£i
yokes; with the fevks pl'acied'verticttlfy)' tftfd', tlt^
sides- of the* yokes being embfkced' By srtliiife'^
tiopes," afford a Uolrf to tlie pasSetigfeVs: "tiii
rtfatf from the I'imif of KaShiiiire fd Mu^ffeirtibad
tends to the south-west, and leads OVef'tfc'Oumliy
cfcjvered with ifioudfairiS, which at^'th^nfy inter-
sectedfwrth abrupt vaM'eys'. ' ^

Off tHe- IStti, halted kV A mtostjue. Off tbe
ifesttrh side Of Ki^Iik 6uiiga. ' •

On the 19th, the ka61ah proceeded a coss
felahfl' tf otn the riv^r. The heat of ttte" wither,,
during the day, and the remains of a sickhesi^,
bad so enervated me, that I could not wAlkn feir
pacesv witfeotit extrente jyiaih' attd Itt^^^ Bat*

my little Wknts were reid% Supplied' i)yMaKu-

bulUh, who procured good provisions, <ookeil^
tfaenij and was* my pipe 66ir^«

On tlie 20th) at I>amtee> three 6O0§e$i i/i
small v^iage on the eastern bank of ibe^ Nhsdi, ^
narrow rapM river, wfaieh ftdk intO' the Kiaheii'
Gtifiga. 11^ kafikh remained at this plaise; utH
tfl the inbabitancs had constructed a brkige, which'
ooHsisted of two entire bleams» at the distafto^o^
three fbet asonder, wkhan interstice of plaoki^
fastened by corda^. The perforoHNice of tfafS'
w^rky a very tedious o»e^, was chiefly exp^ted
by" S«rttaa MahQKM3€l, i« person^ who/ though
9Bit eid mftn, shewed a persevering aetivity, witip
a great share of good temper. The MMeriala^oC
1^ bridge, which: had been floated ^om- soantt)
drtance, havings ^y the force of the c«rre»t^
bectt carried betew the proper stfaticm, we wewej
dietaiaed at Burtnee for another supply of wood^
until the 28th, when we na<yved thp» coesrs^
and HaTted iiv anr cHunhabUed valley.

On the»29»thi oa'tlie suiiafntit of a^ modniaifiv
ten cdsses, iii the- disWicls of Jiddbon; gb^^mied)
by a Patan driefr In a st«ep part of thftihilli
where the parih, ftom s(M»e raiw that had ftUlen,>
was* sltpperyi my horse stun^ble*; afld-bad iior,«^
tree; been within reaeb, a^brawhof vrhicb l«abgb^
1 must have-been thrown? dewn a* lofty decliwiiJyi^
This mghi I experienced some of those iocoave^^
niencies ta which tn^vellers o# my descripiJon^«re>

48. ^OBiT^E's TRAVELS* ,

occai^onally subject My baggage was thoroughly
soaked by the rain;« and water, which hacji al-
ready 80 much annoyed me, was not to' be founcly
nor ji stipk of fuel These embarrassments, which
made me testy and pouch disposed to quarrel with
my .neighbours^ were, at length obviated by the
actives services p^ Mohubyllah, . who having
hro^ghXrv^Siier and fuel, from a long distance,
prepared: a mesa of broth from some mutton in
our, store, which afforded a regale to a very hun-
gry party, The Jiddoon road being difficult of
access, is little frequented, and, until the passage
of our kaiiiah, had never, I was informed, been
used' by merchants. The common tract lies through
the Puckley territory, but the inhabitants pf that
quarter, notorious for a fierce and predatory dis-
position, had lately committed so many robberies
pn commercial property, that the director of our
party judged the route too hazardous.

On the 30th, at Mangbellee, six co<$es, a small
tpwn, • the residence .of a Shadee Khan, the chief
of- Jiddoon. Halted at this place for the adjust-
ing the. payment of duties, and of an escort, that
had a.ccpmpanied our progress through the coun-
try,, until the 4th of J.uly, when we proceeded to
KotiJlee, a fort in the. possession of Meimoun
Khan, a brpther and- vassal of the chief of Ja-
noul. Halted on the 5th, to compose a differ-
ence, of opinion, that had arisen ^.mong the mer-
chants, respecting the choice of a road.

forster's travels. 49

On the 6th, at Nheamut or Enayet Serau,
eight cosses, a fortified village, with a karavan-
sera, situate on the western limit of Janoul, the
territory of Gul Shere Khan, a Mahometan of
the Afghan tribe. Being told that the merchants
would be detained some days at this place, for the
discharge of customs, and thence proceed to the
town of Beer, the residence of Gul Shere, where,
as at many other stations, a long delay would be
occasioned, I proposed to MohubuUah the prose-
.cution of our journey by a nearer route. He
gave a ready assent to the measure,' assuring me
also,. that his knowledge of the country and many
of the principal people promised very reasonable
success : but he required, as the first condition,
an implicit obedience to all his directions, and a
restraint on that impatience of temper, with which
he was sorry to observe I was too much ac-
tuated.

On the 7th we left the Serauce, and conduct-
ed by a guide through an unfrequented path, we
passed without molestation the Tyrrhone districts,
where most danger was apprehended ; a,nd halted
during the heat of the day at a small fortified
village.

In the evening, after various alarms, we amved
at the fort of Kote, nine cosses, which, with an
"kdjacent district, is held by a Nujjeeb Khan. It
is to be noticed, that Enayqt Serau stands on the

Vol. in E

60

yorstbr's travels.

west side of a break of that great range of moon-
tains, extending along the head of the Punjab,
and within which I had travelled, with little va-*
riation, from the Ganges to that place, whence I
entered the plain country.

On the 8th, at Morree, five cosses,'a small vil-
lage, depending on the Harbarry territory, which
is governed by a powerful Afghan chief. We had
set out from Kote in good spirits, enjoying the
idea of being liberated from a party obstructed by
constant delays, and the hope of making an ex^
peditious journey, through a tract, which was, wd
now found, exposed to the incursions of banditti.
But these pleasing thoughts were wholly dispelled
by the intelligence of a passenger, who told us^
that when he left Kote, a body of horsemen were
preparing to follow and plunder us. Mohubul-
lah immediately resolved to return "to the fort^
where he said they would be deterred from offer-
ing any violence, and having lodged me in a house
of one of the inhabitants, he went to a neigh-
bouring village, the residence of a Seid, who had
acquired a great influence in that quarter, and
solicited his protcQtion, which he informed me,
by a messenger, had been readily granted. On
receiving this favourable intelligence, I went to
the Seid to return thanks for this, opportune as-
sistance,' and found him stretched on a bed^
amidst a grove of ibady trees, anU surrounded

FORSTfeK 8 THA Y1L9. 61

with boys, some fanning biip, while others wer^
g^tly rubbing hi0 body- Though his manners
evidently displayed that superiority which the
supposed descendantsi of Mahomet usually assume
from their lineage and rank, be was not wanting
10 polite civility ; nor did be refuse 3ome small
ofier ingSy which were presc^nted to him with much
respect. The authority of this mi^n was so in)-
pli^tly admitted) that we were escorted in safety
Vy ^ single dome3tic, whose services were libe*
r^ly . rewarded. Fear produces in the mind
strong effusions of an apparent generosity and
gratitude, and when skilfully wrought on by the
«ian of the world, seldom fails to yield him an
aqaple harvest. It is a severe reflection on huma-
nity, says Bruyere, that the di3po3iiion of man is
ever the most effectually meliorated in the hour
of calamity. At Mourree we received intelli-
gence! that a Peshour kafilah had^ a few hours
before, departed on its way home, which gave us
great joy, especially to MohubuUah, who now
saw the near prospect of a conclusion to the pe-
rilous task he had undertaken.

Ok the morning of the 9th, before day-light,
we left Mourree, and after travelling some hours
through a wild and gloomy tract, on which the
turn of my mind thr^w, perhaps, an additional
shade, and encountering many ill-looking fellows^
who viewed us with a keen eye, we joiaed the

59 fobstek's travels^

Peshour party, where we experienced from the
countrymen of MohubuUah, every token of wel-
come.

At noon arrived at Hyder Bunghee, nihe cos-
ses, a populous village, dependent on Attock, the
principal town of a small district, which acknow-
ledges the supremacy of Timur Shah. The chie^*
an Afghan, yields an obedience conformable ta
the motions of that prince, or the leading mo-
tives of the day; but, when destitute of other
resource, he furnishes a tribute of about fiftv
thousand rupees.

On the 10th, at Bazzar, five cosseSy a small
village, at the distance of three quarters of a
mile from the western shore of the river Iridus^*
which we crossed about twenty miles above the
town of Attock. The stream, though not
agitated by the wind, was rapid, with a rough un-
dulating motion, and about three quarters of
a mile, or a mile in breadth, where it was not
interrupted by islands ; and having, as nearly as
I could judge, a west and by south course. The
water was much discoloured by a fine black sand,-
which, when put into a vessel, quickly subsided.
It was sor cold, from (I apprehend,) a large mix-

* In the Persian language, usually called the Ab or Water
of Scind, and sometimes Neil Ab or Blue Water j aad by the
Hindoos, Scind and Attock*:

fobster's travels. 53

ture of snow, then thawed, by the summer heats,
that in drinking it, my teeth suffered a violent
pain. In our boat were embarked seventy per-
sons, with much merchandize and some horses.
This unweildy lading, the high swell of the cur-
rent, and the confusion of the frightened pas-
sengers, made the passage dangerous and veiy
tedious.

The Indus forms a strong barrier to Hindostan
on the west, and it seems a manifest truth, that
had the Indians made their grand stand on the
banks of this river, at the period of the Tartar,
Afghan, and Persian invasions, their empire
might have made a powerful resistance. Armies,
at all times, have sustained difficulties and
•damage in crossing the Indus, but the attempt
to force its passage must be arduous and full of
danger.

TixE road from Muzzufferabad, tending to the
south-west, led me through the mountains, into
the upper part of the Punjab, at Nheamut Serau ;
from which place to Kote, are seen some scat-
tered hills ; but thence, the country is plain and
thinly wooded. The inhabitants, chiefly Afghans,
or as they are called in India, Patans, live in
small forts or walled villages, and entertain such

•

mutual dread and distrust of each other, that a
eingle traveller is a rare object. The depreda-
tions of the Sicques, on the Attock and adjacent

N ^

54 rORSTEK^S TBAYELS.

districts, generally subject this tract of country to
much desolation, and a failure of rain, in the
preceding year, now gave it the appearance of a.

desert«

On the 11th, at Akorah, a small town. At
the distance of six miles from the great river,
crossed theAttock,so called in these parts, frooi its
falling into the Indus, in the vicinity of the town
of that name ; but, in some of the interior par{s
of Afghanistan, it is denominated the Kabul
river.* The weather bad noMlf become extremely
hot ; and I was often surprized, at my ability to
bear, with scarcely a shelter, the force of so
scorching a sun. I arrived at Akorah about
noon ; when immediately entering a spacious
cool mosque, I spread my bed, and lay down
much at my ease. In the evening, the time of
a common prayer, being desired, by one of the
MoUahs or Priests^, to prepare myself for the
ceremony, I iirged in excqse, the debilitated
state ot my body, wljich prevented the requisite
perfornjance of so incumbent a duty; looking at
me with contempt, he said it was the more neces-
sary for me to pray, that I might obtain better
health. At midnight, I perceived ,a person en-
deavouring to take my turban from the bed-

* lis course lying wit)iin six mile$ to the south-east of that

city.*

FOBSTER's TRAVELftf ^

clotbesi and being caught by the arm ,he told
me^ in a faultering voice, that be was the Mollah
of the mosque, and, from his speech, I beheve,
the man who had reprehended my neglect of
prayer. What think you, my friend, of these
Mahometans, who, if they wash and pray at the
five stated times, abstain from wine and the flesh
of hogs, and utter a siring of Arabic ejaculations,
which they do not understand, believe that they
bave procured the divine licence to violate the
laws of justice. This opinion is not formed on
tlie moment, but has arisen from long experience
and the intimate intercourse which my various
occupations in India have produced ; and is now
so firmly substantiated by undeviating testimony,
that it shapes my general sentiments of the Maho-
metan character. When they daringly comnd^it
these acts on each other, even amidst the rites of
their religion, what is to withhold their attacks
on those of a different faith ?

This day a body of Afghan cavalry encamped
in the environs of Akorah, and overspread the
country like a swarm of locusts, devouring and
destroying wherever they went. It seemed as if
the land was invaded ; they entered in a violent
planner every village within their scope, and fed
themselves and horses at the expense of the in-
habita]:)ts» Such expeditions afford these hun-

56" FORSTER's TRAVELS.

gry creatures almost the only public means of
subsistence ; for when inactive, they are often
reduced to such distress, by the blind parsimony
of their prince, that their horses, arms, and
clothes are sold for a livelihood.

On the J 2th, at the village of Peer Pyah,
ten cosses.

On the 13th, at the village of Kalalab, eight
cosses, th^ residence of Mohubullah's family,
where I was treated with much hospitality. The
male inhabitants of this village, are all pro-
prietors of mules, and employed in conveying
merchandize,^ and from the name of their abode,
denominated Kalals.

On the 14th, at Peshour, four cosses, a large,
populous, and opulent city, governed, with the
dependent districts, by an Afghan officer, who
remits to the capital a revenue of seven lacks of
rupees. The road from the Indus to Peshour,
has nearly a west ^nd by south direction ; and
the country to Akora is sandy and interspersed
with stones ; from thence to Peshour, are seen
many tracts of cultivation. The city of Peshour
was founded by the great Acbar, who seeing, it
is said, the Afghans- averse from dwelling in towns
and the occupations of comrnerce, encouraged
the inhabitants of the Punjab, Mahometans, and
Hindoos, to resort to his new settlempnt, where
their descendants have greatly muhiplied. From

FOnSTER's TRAVELS. 67

its well'Vrhosen position, which unites, by a com-
mercial chain, Persia and Afghanistan with India,
Peshour has become an impprtant mart, and the
residence of wealthy merchants ; especially of the
shaul dealers, many of whom disliking the dan*-
gerous and tedious route of Kashmire, are here
enabled to make their purchases at a moderate
advance on the first cost. I found- a small soci-
ety of Jews at Peshour, living at their ease,
and in the enjoyment of an unfeserved protec--
tion.

The heat of Peshour seemed to me more intense,
than that of any country I have visited in the up-
per parts of India. Other places miay be warm ;
hot winds blowing over tracts of sand, may drive
us under the shelter of a wetted skreen ; but at
Peshour, the atmosphere, in the summer solstice,
becomes almost inflammable. Yet it must be no-
ticed, in favour of its salubrit}^, even in this torrid
state, that the people enjoy uncommonly good
health, and are little subject to epidemical disor-
ders. The markets are abundantly supplied with
provisions of an excellent kind, particularly the
mutton, which is the flesh of the large tailed
sheep, said to have been first discovered in South
America. Though the city is so much frequented
bv merchants and travellers, it has no karavan-
sera; and I thought myself fortunate in procuring

48 yOKSTEB^S TRAVELS*

admittance into an old mosque, where # conti«
x)ued for many^ days to dissolve in an unremitting
i^tate of perspiration, the mention of which leads
me to an occurrence^ that involved me in great
perplexity. ^

At Kashmire, a part of my property had been
converted into a bill of five hundred rupees, on
Kabul, which was lodged in a canvas belt, that
served me as a girdle ; on examining the condi-
tion of the bill at Peshour, I found the writing so
much obliterated by perspiration, that no one
could read, or even conjecture its subject ; froni
beginning to end, it had literally a black appear-
ance. The app;-ehension of the evident difficul-
ties which would attend my want of money, in a
jcountry where the most sanguine hope could pro-
mise no assistance, and the necessity of mixing in
societies, void of every good or rational principle^
occasionally operated in depressing my spirits.
But the desire which had originally impelled the
journey, and the zeal which had hitherto main-^
tained its pursuit, at length dissipated these
gloomy impressions, and in gay colours, described
a various scene of future pleasure.

BziNG informed that a kafilah was immediately
proceeding to Kabul, I hired a mule, and went to
the adjacent village of Tackal, the usual rendez-
vouz of travellers, going to the westward. Qn

FOB6T£R's TRAVELg.

a9

fny aril^al there, I learned, that the great kafilah
still contiuued at Feshour, and that only some
horsemen, confiding in their speed and arpis, had
moved early in the morning towards KahuL A
reflection on the predicament in which I then
stood, the slow pace of my mule, which had more
the appearance of an ass, and the representation
of the muleteer, whose fears prompted innu-
merable falsities, slackened my strong inclination
to escape from the heats of Peshour, and aft^
niaking a fruitless attempt to pvertake the horse-
men, I returned to my lodging in the mosqu&
Sauntering one day in the bazar, the common re-
sort of idle, as well as busy people, I saw a per-r
sop, with whom I had travelled from MuzzufFer-
abad to Enayet Serau. We agreed, as our road
was the same, to travel together, and in the mean
time to share the same fare. So corxiial is the
pleasure resulting from society, so naturally do
wc cling on each other, whether for support or
amusement, that I immediately looked on this
man as an approved friend, and felt a confi-
dence from the connection, which set my mind*
at perfect ease. On enquiry into the finance of
my associate, whose name was Noor Mahomed, I
discovered; that he possessed in cash, one rupee,
on which himself, a boy and a horse were to
be subsisted; until his arrival at Kabul, a journey

' >

€0 forster's travels.

irf twelve or fourteen days; I perceived oto, that
on the expenditure of this sum, he would seek an
tiid from me. Fully apprized of the danger, as well
las inconveniency of disclosing the amount of my
property, I gravely told Noor Mahomed, that I
had then no more than three rupees, which, with
his single one, should be placed in a joint fund,
and that on it and providence, we must trust uatil
our arrival at the capital. The Mahometan, with
a countenance brightening with faith and zeal,
exhorted me to be of gpod cheer ; for that true
believers were never deserted in the hour of
HQed.

• On the 25th of July, accompanying a large ka-
filah, in which a portion of the Kashmire tribute,
invested in shauls, was conveyed, we proceeded
to the village of Tackal, three cosses, where we
laid in a provision for three days journey, the en-
suing tract of country, for that distance, being
thinly inhabited.

On the 26th, at Timrood, four cosses, a for-
tified small village, situate on the south side of a
range of rocky mountains, which reflected a
scorching heat on the plain beneath. The inha-
bitants 'of this village, genuine Afghans, have
little respect, though residing so near Peshour,
for either the person of Timur Shah, or his go-
vernment, which was in some degree evince^

FORSTER's TRAVjai,S< 6t

during7)ur halt. The goverhoi: of Kashmire had
sent with our kafilah, for the use of thq prince,
four large dogs of Thibet, which were carried in
litteris, and attended with much care. The
keepers had led them to drink at a pond, where
an Afghan woman was filling her pitcher, but,
on seeing these animals, which the Mahometans
hold unclean, she put it down, and by a shower of
stones, and abuse, drove the whole party from
the place, loudly calling at the same time on the
villagers to her assistadce, which she little need-.
ed. The Afghans immediately assembled and
completed the rout of the dogs and their kepp-
crs^ bestowing on the Shah, also, very con-
temptuous language ; nor were they suffered to
return to the pond, until escprted by the kafilah
guard.

On the 27th, at Dickah, eighteen cosseg, a
small village, standing on the southera bank of
the Kabul, or Attock river, which here runs to
the right, or eastward. At the distance of about
two miles from Timrood, we entered a narrow
defile, which intersects the chain of mountains
lying to the north of the village. At the entrance
of the pass, the Afghans stopped the kafilah, and,
excepting some troops of the Shah, levied a small
contribution on all the passengers-; they receive,
also, an annual sum from : the government of
Eeshour, for permitting travellers to pass unmo-

1

02 ^ FO&STER^S TRATEXii.

ksted through their district. In the first ^rt of
this day's journey, fraught throughout with daa«
ger and fatigue, the rain, which fell in torrente^
nearly destroyed my papers, and completed the
obliteration of the bill, now destitute of mark or
token ; and I judged it as formally cancelled, at
if a receipt had been passed for the amount.
Towards the close of the day, I was entangled, by
my own indiscretion, in a perilous adventure, the
issue of which must be wholly ascribed to good
fortune. When the rain had ceased, the heat of
the sun was extreme, and neither shelter or water
was to be procured. Anxious to escape from
these inconveniences, for the journey was yet
long, and the kafilah proceeded at a slow rate,
about thirty of us, mounted, and the greater part
well armed, resolved to leave the escort. Had I
derived the uses which men usually do from
experience, and reflected but little on those re-
sulting, especially in my situation, from the ftS"
tina lente, I should not have joined this Quixote
(jletachment. We had advanced about four miles,
when- a small body of Afghans, which bad issued
from the hills, and stopped us, peremptorily de-
manded a sum of money, as a toll for passing
through their territory. Here I feel myself sen-
sibly bumbled, when, as a faithful narrator, I am
obliged to say, that our corps behaved in a
most pusillanimous manner, and sacrificed, with*

rORSTEB's TRAVELS* 63

out fair cause, the evident advantage which a
common exertion of spirit would have given. We
^ere about thirty strong, and, to the sights reso-*
lute, good looking fellows; all armed, except
siysel^ with matchlocks, or side arms. On the
enemies approach, our leader, a portly man, with
a large beard, and spreading mustachios, mounted
on a curvetting steed, was struck with a violent
terror, which was instantly communicated to the
party. The tnountameers failed ^not to augment
~ the consternation, and, without ceremony, pro-
ceeded to the usual modes of plunder ; but^
fearful of the arrival of the kafilab^ they were
prevented from a total capture. Aware of the
risk of this day's journey, I had concealed my
cash in two long and narrow purses, which, in the
manner of garters, were tied round my legs. This
arrangement was fortunate, for the Afghans, per«
ceiving my reluctance to dismount, knocked me
off the mule, and forcibly opened the different
parts of jny dress. Not finding any thing of,
value, they were proceeding to treat me with
violence^ when a Hindoo, of the family of the
Dewaa of Kashmire, who bad known me in that
OQUfitry, interposed his good offices, and pro*
posed a ransom for my releasement This gene*
roff$ Hindoo, who, I hope, will under^ no fur^.
ther transmigmtion, unless he likes^ it, exerted so
much warmth in ng hdbalff and spojbe .ao Ur^tly

64 FORSTEE's TRAVELSi

to those marauders, that one of them gave him a
severe blow on the face. He did not, however,
desist ; but, by an active perseverance, supported
by a small sum of money, he accomplished hi^
purpose. At the close of this affair, I had*
mounted my mule, and was rejoicing at the'
escape, when I received a smart blow on my-
bicick ; and, turning about, an Afghan, who had
taken this mode of attracting my notice, told me;*
with an exulting laugh, that our party might now
move on, as the kafilah was in sight ; but direct^
ed us,, if the safety of our lives was regarded, not
to join it until it should have passed \he place bf
action. This injunction was speedily obeyed by
me and some others ; but our doughty comman-
der, seeing the near prospect of relief, began to
utter many bold words, and shew a disposition of
recovering his property and honour by an assault
of the Afghans, who, roused at the menace,
though the kafilah was close at hand, drew their
daggers, and advanced their shields, daring him*
to battle, and to fight for what he had lost.
The cautious officer again qualified his wrath;
but he reprobated them in very spirited lan-
guage, and denounced a severe vengeance on
some fitter occeision. In the latter part of the
journey, an Hindoo, who had gone about a quar- *
ter of a' mile from the party, was plundered of
property to the amount of four hundred rupees,

FORSTERW TB.AVBLS. 05

l)y a small body of these robbers, who bad made
WL sudden descent from the hills, and, before
^Ussistance could be given, secured the booty. It
•was with much pleasure, after the peril and toil
^f the day, I saw the Kabul river, and the small
•village of .Dickah, where we halted. The stage
^rom Timrood to^ Dickab, usually called the
JSyber-pass, being the only one in which much
danger is to be apprehended from banditti, the
officer of the escort gave orders to his party to
^uit the kafilah, and march early on the next
^DiorniDg. This opportunity at' once offering
^safe^ and expedition, was not to be foregone ;
3et the muleteer was with great difficulty per-
suaded to embrace it, and, but for the inter-
ztference of Noor Mahomed, who was obliged to
^fceat him into compliance, I must have attended
^e tedious progress of the kafilah. Before I quit
^b£s station, it is necessary to lay before you a
^rief account of the tribe of Afghans^ through
^whose district we had now passed.

You will naturally be surprized, that a SQiall

T)ody of people, residing near the capital of an

extensive empire, should not have been restrained

iirom infesting one of its most public roads. The

lawless conduct of this sect of Afghans, who are

Imown in this country by the name of Hybers,

originates chiefly in the imbecility of Timur

Shah's government^ and his want of military ^pi-

V^L. II. F

6& FORSTERS 7RATELS.

rit. They are strongly aided, also, in the pursuit
of a freebooting life, by the situation of their
country, which forms a chain of rocky mountaiDS^
whose scanty slips of valley afford but the coarsest
provision for human wants. This rude race of
men have made so slow a progress in civilization/
that the greatest part of them, like the storied
TrogloditeS'Of old, dwell in caves, or rather io
the fissures of rocks. Though professing the
Mahometan religion, they are little more versed
in it, than believing Mahomet to be their pro-
phet, that he had four distinguished friends, and
that the Persians, with the whole sect of All, are
a miscreant race of infidels. The Hyber dialect is
founded on the common language of the Afghans,
but harshly guttural, and is ill understood by the
adjacent tribes. Timur Shah, who used formerly
to pass the winter at Peshour, which is there
much milder than at Kabul, never passed through
the territory of the Hybers, without their attack-
ing bis advanced or rear guard. An Armenian,
with whom I was acquainted in travelling Yrom
Moultan towards Kabul, arrived at Peshour,
where taking alarm at the perils of the Hyber-»
pass, he returned to Moultan, a journey of three
weeks; thence be proceeded to Kundahar, it
month's journey, from which plaqe it is a distaace
of fifteen days to Kabul ; making,, in all, a pas-
sage of nine weeks, which is usually performed by

vobstbr'is travels. 67

the Hyber^track in eleven days. This fact, at
the same time that it marks the caution and pa-
tience of an* Armenian, explains the dread enter-
tained of the Hybers.

On the 28th, before day-break, having joined
the party that had escorted the kafilah, we left
Dickah, and, at the distance of seven cosses,
halted, near the village of Bissquly, to dry our
baggage, which had been exposed all the morning
to a heavy rain. In moving 'again, we experi-
enced many obstacles from the extreme darkness
of the night, and the numerous currents of water,
which, suddenly produced by the rains, poured
from the hills with extreme impetuosity ; carrying
with thepfi stones of a vast size, whose roUing
noise resembled thunder. It was midnight, the
sky was overcast with black clouds, and the roar-
ing of the torrents, heard on all sides, created in

-my mind a certain horror mingled with awe, and
I was involuntarily led to consider this grand
scene of nature with sentiments of profound rer
verence. , '

On approaching ]a. rivulet, which had been
greatly enlarged by the rain, our chief dispatched
first, that, she might not be incommoded by the

' crowd, one of his favourite women, who, though
mounted on a strong horse, had no sooner entered
the stream, than she was 3wept away by its force
and drowned. This event occasioned an imme-

r 2

iSS forstbr's travzli^

idiate bait, and very sensibly afflicted our leader^
who threw binoself on the ground, and loudly
lamented the fate of bis^ mistress. At day-brealr,
the body was found on the shore, corered with
mud, and after interring it with sueb ceremonies
as the occasion admitted^ our party crossed thtt
stream, now reduced to a small size.

On. the S9th, at Jillalabad,* twelve cosses, for-^
merly a town of great note, and, though now
much decayed, still supporting a moderate traffic.
It has a public market, and the adjacent district
produces a coarse sugar. Yesterday, the country
was open and fertile ; to-day, the road led over a
barren tracts interspersed with hills.

On the 30tb^ at the village of Balabaughi ei^t
cosses. s

On the 31st, at the village of Gundamouck,
ten cosses. About three miles to the eastward of
Gundamouek^ crossed a' small fordable river,')r
running to the southward, or right, over which
are the remains of a bridge built of bricks^ The
air, hitherto hot, had assumed at this place a
sudden coldness ; not effected by any change of
weather, but, agreeably to the observation of tra-
vellers, peculiar to the climate of this part of the

* The Attock river runs about two miles to the northwajd
of the town.

f I imagm* it falls into the Attock rirer at some short
distance.

forster's traybls. 69

country. The shortness of our stay would not
permit an inquiry into the cause of this quick
transition; nor could any of my associates,
though used to the road, give a reasonable ae*
icount of it. Passengers, I believe, throughout
Asia, make journies merely from motives of profit
or conveniency, sometimes of religion^ A desire
of knoivledge, or even pleasure, rarely carries
them abroad ; land they move from one stage to
another, without deviating an unnecessary foot-
step ; yet they are minutely skilled in the rates
of prpvisions At all the markets, and whether the
j»lace is a hot or a cold on^ ; farther they know
not, nor do they ever asL Near the village of
Xjrundamouck is seen a white stonie, said to re<*
semble the head of an elephant, and, I believe,
that which the Persians term the Sung 3uiFede.^
The air, i^ this quarter, must have been stronj^y
impregnated with nitrous particles, for all the
exposed parts of my body became covered with a
white sealj substance, pf a salipe jtaste, which, iqi
ft short time, excpriated the outer skin^

On the 1 st of August, at Baracpw, a sandy
uninhabited valley, ten cQssps. The p^c^r of the
jBSCort, prpceedipg this day tq K9.bi|( with those
that were well ipounted, our parfy was rjeduced
^o a small number. We remaini^d, during the

f Sfgnif^Ing, in the Penric, a vfKite i^i)«.

!fb i?ORSTER'iS TRAVELS,

noon heat, at Juggid Ali, where I think there is
only one house, which stands under a few treeSi
and where, it is said, the wind continues to bloiJr
with violence during the whole year. Its forcft
did not abate during our stay; and if such is itfi
usual rate, iEolus, had he lived in our day, would
at least have chosen Juggid Ali for one of his
country seats. Noor Alahomed, whom I suppose
you have lost sight of, believing that my money
was now expended, or that I would not advance
more, had for some time treated me with neglect,
almost insult ; and, in despite of his former
assurance, that zealous Mahometans were never
abandoned, we should have felt extreme distress,
h^d he not borrowed a little cash from a horse-,
dealer, and I from the private fund.

On the 2d of August we commenced our jour-
liey, that day a long one, at three o'clock in the
morning; and, in ascending a high steep hill,
which forms one side of the valley of Baracow,
the tackle of my mule broke; when I, the ani-
mal, and baggage, rolled rapidly to the bottom.
Ill my way down I roared out with vehemence
for assistance; but every person being engaged
in more interesting business, no notice was taken
of my clamours. My situation would have been
vfery comfortless, had I not perceived Noor
Mahomed passing close by me, whose help I
earnestly intreated. After a long hesitation, and

/

I

I

FORSTER S'tRAVELS. ' 71

a hearty curse, which I bore with patience, he
consented to stay ; and having assisted in collect-
ing my scattered garments, and repairing the
mule's tackle, we proceeded together. During a
smart debate, in which his illiberal conduct and
my ill luck were keenly reprobated, it was found
that we had strayed from the path. But the
eflfects of a mutual fear, soon absorbed the late
grievance, and united our exertions in discover-,
ing the right path, which was found after much
groping.

Crossing a range of rocky hills, which ex-
tends, with little intervention of valley, for the
space of about eight miles, we entered a wide
plain, well watered and interspersed with walled
villages. The Kabul river runs through this
plain, over which, at the distance of four or five
miles to the southward of the city, is a bridge*
built of bricks. On our approach to the capital,
an active scene of personal decoration took place,
yet in a fashion very different from that of the'
beaus of Europe. Instead of powdering and
curling the hair of the head, a Mahometan is
there close shorn, and so far from thinking that
beauty is imparted by a smooth chin, he mea-
" suiies the comeliness of his countenance, even
the extent of honour^ by the length and breadth

* Called Byramy.

7iB T01t8T|S|t'8 T|lAyILl|.

of his beard.^ I( i$ no uncommon oath in thi^
country to SFj^ar by the beard ; and to call ^
man bud feish^ or bad beard, is held a bitteic
reproach ; but petit maitre3 are not wanting
among the Mahometan?, especially in thp exbiT
bition of the beard ; and though they do np^
apply to it marechalq powder or pomade divine,
it is clipped into some favourite ^hape with mucl|
nicety, and shpuld the natural hue be not liked^
it is stained with a shining black colour,t whicii
lasts a long time. Imagining from the behaviour
of Noor Mahomed, that I shou)d pot see him
again, and wishing to make a final trial of hi^
dispositipn, I dpsirpd hiip to fix some period for
the payment pf his debt, which a fair and very
short account stated at five shillin£[s. He obser-
ved with much indifference, that the road was pq
improper place fop thq adjustment of accounts,
and that he would take some future occasion for
the purpose.

In the evening I arrived at Kabul, fifteen cos*
ses, the capital of the Afghan empire ; and, after
a long search) found a Georgian, for whom I had.
brought a letter of introduction, from his coun*r.

* The Persians, Afghans, and iQost of the natural Turks,
encourage the growth of the beard : while the Indian *Maho->
inetans, Patans excepted, ordinarily sh^ve it.

t This dye is composed of Indigo, and the leaves of tkc
Ivony Shrub*

rQK$T£R'd tRAVELS; 73

tpyipan at Kashmire ; having read the lettjsrj \xq
ipade me an offer pf half his appartment, and
such assistance as a strapger might need. This
j^cceptable tender wa3 embraced wifh little cir*
cumlqcutiop, arid I was immediately received in?
Xp a mess, which then consisted of Bagdasir the
Georgian, apd the Armenian \yhpm I mentione<|^
tp haye niade the cirpuitQus routp from Peshour
to Kabfpl. My host resided in ^ ks^ravs^nsera,
qnce pfiid by foreign traders, and h^d passed
twenty yejj^rs pf his life at Kabul. My first care
was tp disclose Xo bin) the injured state of my
bill ; at which bp shpolj: bis head, observing,
that as no letter in i^ i^eemed legible, it was not
tp be expected men wopl^ come forward in ^.
business, that would in any shape, take money
from them. The n^ercbants of Kabul, he said^
differed much in their mode of dealing froni
those of India, and with difficulty were brought
tp discharge payments demanded on the clearest
authority, much less on a plea so equivocal as
that of mine. The truth of this reasoning was
pn the next day fully proved, for not a merchant
of the city, and all were applied to, would even
attempt to decypher the paper, when be under-
$tobd it contained an order of payment. This
event sensibly aflfeqted my future progress, and I
feared would detain me at Kabul until clearer
credentials were obtained. Another occurrence

74 fORsTE&*S TRAVELS.

befel me at this time, of a much more trivial
natui^e ; but as it serves to pourtray perhaps a
national character, may deserve a notice.

The muleteer, who had accompanied me from
Peshour, charged me with having given him a
counterfeit rupee on the road, and now required
its exchange. He had before made known to
ine his suspicion of this piece of mohey, which
one of the passengers had given him, and had
solicited my interference for redress. When I
recounted this fact, reprobating also the shame-
less fraudulency of the attempt, the boy, for he
was not more than sixteen years of age, daring-
ly told me to spare my words and pay the money,
or he would prefer a double complaint against
me, and make oath to the kazzi^ that none of the
mule-hire had been paid ; though himself had
witnessed the advance of half the hire at Pe-
shour. His youthful appearance, and so intre-
pid a declaration, united in striking me with
horror, and I instantly put my hand td my purse
to prevent his purpose, when Bagdasir, who had
heard our discourse, insisted that no money
should be paid without an ordfer from the judge.
They went to that officer's court, where the mule-
teer, without a wince, made oath to the truth of
his demand, which was forthwith paid by Bagda-
sir, who returned crossing himself, and contra-
tulated my easy escape from the. clutches of a
young incarnate devil.

- fouster's travels. ^5

By sleeping in the open air, I imagine, and oii
nitrous ground, a fever, accompanied with an
ague, sefeed me a few days after my nrrival at
Kabul, the effects of which were singularly vio-
lent. The fever, during its continuance, causfed
ia delirious stupefaction, afid created an insatiabFe
thirst, which frequently relieving by draughts of
extremely cold water, it seemed at once to gush
from every pore, and drenched me in profuse
perspiration. When the fit of ague commenced,
my bed-clothes,- with those of Bagdasir, and all
the horse-covering that could be procured, were
heaped on me, but to little purpose ; for I Jay
in thestate of the damned, if such can be form-
ed by human idea, until the paroxysm had wreak-*
ed its vengeance. My body was filled with spot*
of a very bright colour, shaded between purple
and crimson, which I should have beheld with
pleasure, thinking that such eruption would dimi-
nish the disease, had not an Armenian pronounc-
ed tliem a symptom of the plague. This opinion
gave a common alarm ; and though no alteration
appeared in the conduct of Bagdasir, it operated
strongly on the fears of my neighbours, and they
were disposed to exclude me from their quarter,
when I confidently asserted, that the fever of the
plague always produced its crisis in three days.
Seeing that I had endured seven, and preserved
a brisk flow of spirits, their apprehension was

79 yaitsT£R^s tkateli.

much allayed, and the scheme of banishment
^t aside.

. Enpeavqurxvg one day to look thsough the
tube of my tobaccO'pipe with my right eye, the
)eft bipiog closed, I perceived it to be wholly
without sight. This was a mortifying event, and
that my ills might be more grievous, J was afflicted
with a spitting of blood/ Bagdasir now called in
ta doctor of physic, who, after pronouncing me in
a deplorable state, and that littlp short of a mi-
f^cle coul4 .^.^ye me, undertoo]^ the cure, through
Ithe mediuip of soo^js medicine only known, he
yaid, to himself, and which had never failed of
jsuccess. Entertaining from the discourse of my
physician, but a slender opinion of his ability, I
psed, under different pretences, to send Bagdasir
put of tb|3 rootn, and disposed of the medicine
where no injury pould be done. The disorder
haying directed its fqll force against ipe for the
space of twenty days, begap, as if wearied
wijh the exertion, to abgite, and in a short time i|;
ivhplly ceased; but my frame w^ sp shattered and
piy perves so much relaxed, that I could scarcely
cr^wl about, and the least noise produced a vio*
lent tremor. In t^e cJpurse of my iJUiess I waa
visited by many of the Arnaenians, and one of
theih, a zealous devotee, desired me to swallow
some small rolls of paper, on which were lyrittea
certain mysterious words, infallible, he saicj, ifl

their efiects^ upon the bodies of pious ChtiB*
tians.

I EXPRESSED my thanks to this dealer in spellsi
and readily agreed to take his dose, should Bag*
dasir, ivho was my absolute director^ give assent*
On an investigation into their virtue, he permitted
me, though with reluctance, for he abhorred the
Armenian sect, to eat them, at the same time ex*
pressing strong doubts of their efficacy. But wher
ther from not being a member of the orthodox
faith, as the Armenian urged, or according to the
Georgian, from the heretical preparation of the
charm, I received no benefit ; indeed I grew daily
worse, as the sickness was then in its progressive
stage.

OfiSERViNO, on my arrival at Kabul, a com-
mon toleration of religion ; that Christians, Hin-
doos, and Jews, openly professed their cre^d, and
pursued their occupations without molestation;
and aware also that the Mahometan chara9ter
would deprive me of the advantage of Bagda^r's
connection, I had informed him that I was a na-
tive of Europe, returning from India into my own
country. At first I designed to take the name of
A Frenchman, but the wandering temper of^ that
people, who stray into every corner of the eartbi
made me fear detection ; and bad I been hardy
enough to become an Englishman, one of those
who have absorbed the Mahometan power in

T* l^RSri?R*S TRAVELS^.

India, and in this country have obtaided a supe-
rior military reputation, I should perhaps, at this
day, have been a bombadier in the corps of Tiiifiur
Shah's artillery. To avoid these risques, I deno«
minated myself a Spaniard.

It was with much satisfaction I saw the road
from Kabul to Persia open, and a fair prospect of
performing the journey into Europe, by the Mut^
M'hich I had originally proposed. Two Armenian
travellers, who had gone by sea from Astra-
can to Ure Gunje, a Tartar station on one of the
rivers" at the head of the Caspian, and thence l6
Kabul, by the road of Bochara and Balk, were
earnest in persuading me to pursue their traclv
as the shortest and most free from danger. Yet
in this scheme were some essential defects. The
Persian language, on which was founded my^chief
support, would in this route render me little use ;
I learned also that the winter of Bochara was se-
vere and long, that the Ure Ganje river conti-
nued frozen until the month of March, and that
no Russian vessel came there before May : though
a journey from Kabul to the northern shore of
.the Caspian, by the way of Tartary, might be per-
formed in two months and a half, yet by winding
iat Bochara, and the eventual delays of procuring
a passage by sea, it did not seem probaWe that I
should reach Astracan before the ensuing June.
This reason, with the dislike of visiting a country

1

forstek's travels. 7&

DOW barren of Events, or of any grand object of
curiosity, determined me to enter Persia, tvhere
a knowledge of the language would assist in ex-
tending research, as well as combat, with more
probable success, the difficulties incident to my
situation.

. Having too fully, I fear, expatiated on personal
concerns, I will now pursue the more useful ten-
depcy of this letter, and inform you tljat Kabul,
the residence of Timur Shah, and the capital of
bis dominion, is a walled city of about a mile and
a half in circumference, and situated on the
eastern side of a range of two united hills, de-
scribing generally the figure of a semicircle. The
fortification, which is of a simple construction,
with scarcely »& ditch, and the houses built of rough
stones, clay, and unburned bricks, exhibit a mean
appearance, and are ill suited to the grandeur
which I expected to see in the capital of a great
empire. But the Afghans are a rude unlettered
people, and their chiefs have little propensity Xo
the refinements of life, which indeed their coun-
try is ill qualified to gratify.

From the Indus to the western limit of this
extensive territory, there is an invariable defi-
ciency of wood ; insomuch, tbatr the lower class
of people in the northern quarter, suflfer as
much, perhaps, from a want of fuel in the winter
season, as those of other countries would do
from a scarcity of provisions.

so fdXSTElC^S TKAVELft;

Balau Sir, the name of the Shah's palace,
nrhere also the household servants, guards, and the
slaves are lodged, stands on a rising ground in the
eastern quarter of the city, and exhibits but a
slender testimony of the dignity of its master.
Having noticed what has not been done to deco-»
rate Kabul, I must not omit to mention the works
of Ali Murdan Khan. This omrab, who held an
eminent station in the service of Jehanguir,
erected, nearly in the centre of the city, four spa-
cious bazaars^ or market places, in a line, which
consist of a range of apartments on each side, of
two floors, the lower appropriated to merchants,
and that above to private use. The intermediate
3pace between the ranges, is covered by an*
arched roof, and each bazaar is separated by an
open square, which was supplied with fountains,
but now choaked with filth, or occupied by the
meanest order of mechanics. Ali Murdan has
left behind him many monuments of liberality
and taste ; the grandest, though now in ruins, is
seen in the vicinity of Delhi, and displays at once
It design useful and magnificent.

During the splendid sera of Delhi, when it
covered, according to popular tradition, a space
of twenty miles, the inhabitants who resided at a
distance from the Jumna, which skirted only one
of its angles, experienced much difficulty in pro-
curing river water, that of the wells not being

forster's travels. BI

esteemed so salubrious. Ali Murdan, desirous
of relieving this common grievance, surveyed the
land to the westward, and saw that a sluice
opened from the. Jumna, where that river ap-
proaches Karnal, would, from the declivity of
the ground, introduce water into the back part
of the city, and conduct it through all the quar-
ters. The design was put in execution, and to
reward his success and preserve the work in good
condition, Ali Murdan was vested with the pri-
vilege of levying a certain tax, on those houses
which enjoyed the uses of the canal. Water was
conveyed by this branch of the Jumna, forming
a distance of more than one hundred miles and
afforded a comoiodious supply to all t)ie inhabi-
tants ; nor did the canal fall into decay uqtil the
period of the Persian and Afghan invasions. Ali
JVIurdan, who in his taste and disposition would
not have disgraced the Roman Lucullus, bestowed
on the public numerous edifices and gardens ; one
of which, thickly shaded \yith cypress trees, stands
in the environs of Peshpur, jand atnother at Nim-
lah, a small village lying about eight miles to the
south-east of Kabul, on the Peshour road.

A RESPECJT for the mfemory of this orprab has,
perhaps, led me into too wjde a deviation, from
which I will now return, and inform you that the
district^ of Kabul abound in excellent provisions
and thai its market is arranged in a neater manner
fJLud more like th^t^ pf an European town, thaj^

i:

^ FeKflTEKV TRAVELS,

< •

any I have seen in Asia. The fruits are of ^ good
kind and in great plenty, as apples, pears,
peaches, pomegranates, and a variety of grapes.

This quarter of Afghanistan, possessing but
few Indian productions, receives sugars and cot-
ton cloths, chiefly from Peshour, whither it sends
iron, leather, and tobacco. To Kandahar it ex-
ports iron, leather, and lamp oil, whence the re-?
turns are made in sundry manufactures of Persia
and Europe, with a large supply of melons, of an
excellent sort. The Tartars of Bochara bring to
Kabul the borses of Turkistan, furs .and hides,
the latter resembling those in Europe, called
Bulgar, the amount of which *i$ applied to the
purchase of indigo, and other commodities of
India.

The adjacent parts of Usbcck Tartary, of
which Balk * is the capital, hold a species of de-
pendency on Timur Shah, and maintain a com-
mon intercourse with Kabul. I have seen the
great bazaar crowded with Usbecks, ^ho have
the same cast of features as the Chinese and
Malays, but more harsh. Among the foreign
nations who frequent this city, the Hindoos^
chiefly of Peshour, contribute more than any
ether to enrich it, by a superior industry and

^ This city is about two hundred miles to the uorth-west t)f
Kabul/' ■ ' • '■

forster's travels. ^

kftowledge of commerce ; and they enjoy, under
tfie Afghan government, a liberty and protection,
little short of that experienced by the inhabitants
of our Ipdian possessions. The benefits derived
by a slate from the residence of any class of peo-
ple, usually ensure to them a security of person
and property ; but the Hindoos of Kabul are in-
debted, I believe, for special indulgence to one
of their own sect, who controuls the revenues of
the Shah, and stands high in favour. The en-
virons of Kabul are chiefly occupied by garden
grounds, and watered by numerous streams ; the
largest running through the city, over which is 8t
small bridge, ''^ affords a plentiful supply of salu**
brious water.

Kabul, as has been before noticed, standi
near the foot of two conjoined hills, whose length
has nearly an east and west direction. Towards
the base of th^ eastern, stands, on a flat projec-
tion, a fortified palace, which was formerly the
habitation of the governors of the city ; but it has
been converted by Timur Shah into a state pri-
son, where the brothers of this prince, and other
branches of his iaipily are kept in confinement.
Above this building is seen a small tower^ on a
peak, whence the ground rises to a considerable
})eight, and is united by a neck of lower land to

* Called, I l^ave 8inc« been informed, thb Poo) ^listantp

G 2

84 ' foester's teavels*

the other hill. From the peak, a stone wall ex-
tends over the summits of: the two hills, and is
tenuipf^ted at the bottom of the westernmost by
an ordinary redoubt. ,.•

Tnji Afghans ^re the indigenous possesaors of
a track of cpuntry, which stretches from the
mountains pf Tartary to certain parts of the
gu)f of Cambay and Persia; and from tjie Indus
to the confines of Pprsja. .The inhabitants pf
this wide domain have np written character, and
speak a language peculiar to themselves. They
are a robust, hardy race of men, and being ge-
nerally addicted to a state of predatory warfare,
their nxanner§ largely partake of a barbarous iusor
Jence, and they avow a fixed contempt for the
occupations qf civil life. Though in some of our
histories pf Asia, the natives pf Afghanistan are
denqniipatefl Tartars, J ^m prompted to say, that
they bear no resemblance to thpse people, either
in their persons, manners, or language.

Certain territories of Afghanistan yiere
conquered in the ninth century, by the khaiis of
Bochara, of the Samani race, aqd annexeci to
the Tartar principality of Khprasan, from whence
a subordinate chief was deputed to govern ^t
Guizni. But it does not Appear that the nor-
thern quarter of the country was subdued until
the reign of Mahmoud,* the second prince of the

f He reigned in the eleventh century.

FORSTEH'S TRAVELS^ - . ' ■ ^5

Giznavi dynasty, who cDmpleted the conquest of
Aikhailistan; No substantial tradition of the
Afghans or the state of their country is found
on record, until the year of the christian aera
997\ when Sabuctagi, a Tartar officer, in the
service of the chief of Ithorasan, who Was sub-
ject, at that period, to Munsur at Samani,* the
great khan of Bochara, having at his master's
death, succeeded to the territory, renounced the
Tartar rassalage, and extending his conquests to
Afghanistan, made Ghizni the capital of his ern^^
pire.

The Ghiznavi dominion, which involved ,a large
portion of Persia and Hindostan, acquired chiefly
by the arms of Mahraoud, the son of Sabuctagi,
flourished for the space of two hundred and seven
years, when it was wrested from Kusro, the last
of the race of Sabuctagi, by the Afghan Moho-
med Gori.f This prince bequeathed to Eldoze-
a favourite slave, his possessions west of the In-^
dui, which were quickly overrun by a Persian
prince of Kharism, whose successor Tillal-ud-
Dein, was compelled to fly before the victorious
sword of Zinzis. J

From the period of that revolution, till the in-

* The fifth prince of that dynasty.
. t So called from Ghor, a district or principal town in thf
-northern part of Afghanistan.

i This event happeiied about the year l^S.

V

/

I

I I

SS f ORSTEK's TRAVEL!. ^

vasion of Timur Beg, the history of the Afghans
is immcFsed in general obscurity ; and little satisK
factory knowledge of thefr government has been
oooimuaitated to us, except by Ferishta, who sajs
that in the year 1251, Mahmoud, a Patan, king
of Delhi, drove the Mogul Tartars ffonn^ Gb|z-
ni, and annexed it to the enipire of Hindostan.-
It is probable, that it continued subject to the
dominion of Delhi, unlil the expedition of Tl*
mur's into India, when the northern quarter of
Afghanist|iri became a Tartar province.-

As the great empire of Tartary fell into a rapid
decay on the death of Timur, and no relation
being given of the subsequent existence of a Tar-
tar government in Afghanistan, we may infer that
it was ruled by its national chiefs until the year
1506 ; at which period Baber, previously to his
conquest of Hindostan, seized on Kabul and
Ghizni, which occasionally with Kandahar, were
held by his posterity for the space of two hun-
dred and thirty-one years, when Nadir Shah an-
nexed them to the dominion of Persia.

In arranging those heads of Afghan history, it
nmy not be superfluous to note, that Mahmoud
Ghbri bequeathed his territory east of the Indus
to a slave, whom he adopted, named Kultub ul
Dein^^ the first Afghan or Patau * king of Delhi,

* The race of Afghans are commonly known m Fndia by
the name of Patans» the meaniog or etjrmology of wljiick
designatiQ& dpes not seem to be ascertained*

l^OKSTEJ^S TRAVELS,

87

from whom a guccession of princes of the same
nation continiied to reign for near three hundred
years, and ended in Ibrabam, of the house of
Lodi ; who was slain in battle by Baber. The
materials of this sketch, which are taken from
Sbinifiid Dein's Memoirs of Timur, Dowe's His*
tory of Hindostan, and private desultory remarks^
will not, I fear, communicate much useful infor-
mation. For the want indeed of any native re^
Qord, ajud the superficial manner in which the
subject has been treated by foreign writers, little
substantial matter can now exist for the construc-
tion of the history of the Afghans. Yet the loss
is the more easily consoled, when it is considered,
that little instruction or pleasure can arise to the
mind from reviewing the actions of a race of men
enveloped in savage ignorance, and stigmatised
even by the fierce Tartars for their cruelty and
rapine.

The Afghans received the religion of Maibomet
from their Tartar conquerors, and like them pro-
fessing the Sooni creed, are avowed enemies, to
the Schias, or the sectaries of AIL Though ma-
ny of the tribes must have been converted at the
period of the Ghizni dynasty, it is seen that Ti-
mur encountered a fierce .body of this nation,
whom he denominated infidels. At this day, the
Afghans are esteemed the least correct of the Ma-
hometws in religious observances; and few of

88 fouster's thavsls*

them are conversant in foreign letters. Their com-*
mon dress consists of a shirt, which falls over the;
upper part of long and narrow trowsers ; a wool-
len vest, fitted closely to the body, and reaching,
to the mid-leg, and a high turned-up cap, of
broad cloth or cotton, usually of one colour, and
of a conic form ; with two small parallel slits in
the upper edge of its facing. Bread of wheat or
bariey, milk, butter and cheese, compose the:
common diet of the Afghans ; they als6, in the^
winter season and on a journey, make frequent
use of a food called croat, which is curdled milk-
formed into small balls, hardened either .by the
heat of the sun or fire ; this, when dissolved in-
warm water, and mixed with bread, becomes
equally savoury and nourishing. Their butter and
cheese are invariably made of the milk of sheep,
which in this country is said to better adapted to
the purpose than that of kine. The cheese I
thought of good quality, though this opinion might
have arisen from my long usage to a course of
slender diet*

The customs of the Afghans, agreeably to the
cursory observations I made, seem, in all the
greater lines, similar to those of other Mahome-
tan nations ; with that difference which necessa-
rily arises from climate, and from the disposition
of a rude and polite people/ Their women are
concealed, though not in a A^ery rigid manner ;,

>«

nor are they so much devoted to the pleasures of
the harani, as the Indians, Persians, or Turks.
They avow an abhorrence of that unnatural pas-
sion to which many of the Mahometan sects are
addicted ; and the perpetrators are punished with
severity.

The government of the Afghans must ever re-
ceive a weighty bias from the genius of their
ruler; and the degree of authority he may possess.
But when not constrained, as in the present
reign, by some extraordinary power or capacity
of the prince, they disperse into societies, and
are guided by the ruder principles of the feudal
constitution. Conformably to this system, the
different chieftains usually reside in fortified vil-
lages, where they exercise an acknowledged,
though a moderate sway over their vassals, and
yield k careless obedience to the orders of govern-
ment. Rarely any appeal is made to the head of
the state, except in cases which may involve a.
common danger ; when I have seen the authority
of the Shah interposed with success.

The land-holders are assessed, according to
their capacity, in a stipulated sum, which is paid
into the public treasury ; but as it is known that
the demand of a large tax would be resisted, the
government Is temperate and lenient in its treat-
ment of the native Afghan subjects.

The ..armies pf the ejnpijre aye composed of a

I
t

I

diversity of nations; but the best troops are
drawn from the Afghan districts : each of whicbt -
on the event of service, famish a stated quota at
a loir rate, and look for a greater reward in
chance of war. The cities and towns are chiefly
inhabited by Hindoos and Mahometans of the
PoDJabi who were established by the former
pinces of Hindostan, to introduce commerce and
civilization into their western provinces ; many
families of Tartar and Persian extraction are also
dispersed through different parts of Afghanistan.
The latter are denominated Parsewauns, the other
Moguls ;* but they have both adopted the use
of the Persian language ; and it may not be
superfluous to observe, that the -Tartar f con-
querors of India,, a descendant of whom still sits
on the throne of Delhi, made the Persian charac-
ter and language the common medium of record
and correspondence throughout their dominion ;
an usage at this day preserved in all the Mabo«*,
metan states of Hindostan.

To throw some light on the modern history of
Afghanistan, it is necessary to describe some events
which were produced Jn that quarter and in Per-
sia, previously to the invasion of Nadir Shah.

> * The trailers in horses and fruits, who make annua] jour*
tiies into India, are chiefly of this joint class./ ^

i The Turkish is the vernacular language of that region
of Tartary, which gave birth to the race of Timur*

FORSTER^S TRATELS. 91

About the year 1720, an army of Afghans,
commanded by Mahmud, the son of Meervais,
a chieftain of Kandahar, invaded Persia, and
after a series of successes, he beckme possessed
of Ispahan ; the sultan Husseyn, with all his sons,
except Thamas Mirza, who made his escape,
were made prisoners. Mahmud held possession
of the capital and the southern provinces until
his death, when the succession derolved on Ash-
ruff, an Afghan of the same tribe, who in the
year 1730 continued to exercise a sovereign
p^wer in the interior parts of the country. About
^is periody Thamas M irza, -who had fled front
the Afghan arms, raised a body of military adhe^
rents, and ultimately, aided by the prowess of
Kadif his principal officer, made a vigorous at-
tack upon the Afghan usurper ; Ashruff main-
Itetined some obstinate conflicts with the Persian
army, which was wholly commanded by Nadir,
the most intrq^id and successful soldier of the
east ; but he was compelled to yield to the supe-
rior genius of his enemy, and Jn retiring towards
Kandahar wi^h not more than a hundred men,
he was attacked by a party of bis marauding
countrymen, and cut off after a desperate ^ de-»
fence.

A POWERFUL sect of Afghans, denominated
Abdali, encouraged by the distracted jtate of

gS FORSTEH's tRAVBLSi

Persia, had seized on Herat,* a large fortified
city in Khofasan^ and were prcfparing to reduce
the province, when they were encountered by
Nadir, who totally routed their army; fifteen
thousand, it is said, being killed and wdundedy'^
and five thousand made prisoners. Having re-
covered the territories, which the Turks and
Russians had dismembered from Persia during
the weak reign of Husseyn, and expelled the Af-
ghans, Nadir Shah deposed Thamas, and enter-
ing Afghanistan, in the year 1737,i with a lajrg^
army, laid siege to the strong fortress of Kanda-
har, which was at that time held by Husseyn
Khan, an independent Afghan chief. The exer-
tions of this officer, aided by the natural advan-
tages of his situation, detained the Persian in
the vicinity of Kandahar for the space of eigh^
teen months. At the surrender of the fortress
and other adjacent strong holds, Nadir made so
temperate a use of his victory, that about four
thousand Afghans, commanded by two of the
oflScers of Husseyn, were induced to join his
army ; and it is mentioned that these troops,
during the Indian expedition, rendered him es-
sential service.

In the annals of that period, I have made
diligent search for the name of Abdali Ahmed

• Supposed to be Aria of the ancients.

FQRSTBS's TBAVEL9. 99

Khali, the founder of the modern empire of Af-
ghanistan ; but I have not been able to procure
ady accurate information of bis origin or military
progress, until he started forth with so briUiant a
success at the death of Nadir Shah. That he
was an Afghan there is no doubt, as the fa;ct is
fully proved in th& person of his son Timur Shah ;
yet from Dowe's history, he has been brought into
our notice by the name of the Persian Abdalli.
By various recordsand oral traditions of the life of
Nadir Shah, it is seen that he maintained a pafty
of Afghans \n his service, and having received, in
the latter period of his reign, a general testimo-
ny of the disaffection and meditated treachery of
his Persian officers, he resolved to reduce them
to obedience, or cut them off by the assistance of
his foreign troops; among whom, the Afghans,
then commanded by Ahmed Khan, were distin-
guished by pre-eminent marks of favour.

Thk assassination of Nadir was immediately
followed by a furious attack on the Afghan
troops, consisting of four or five thousand men ;
but their intrepid chief, though assailed by the
whole Persian army, effected a safe retreat into
his own country, where seizing on a large trea-
sure which the governor of Kabul, not yet ap-
prized of the fate of Nadir, had dispatched to
%[\G Persian camp, and raising a numerous fprce,
f^ie was acknowledged the sojereiga of the Af-

f)4 roRsrsn's tvavslb. ^

ghan territories, by the title of Ahmed Shah.
After establishing his authority at home, he peae-
trated into the northern quarters of India, which
felt the force of his arm, and long groaned under
the Afghan desolation.

Ahm£D Shah having run through a long and
arduous niilitary career^ and acquired even the
character of a temperate and just prince, died
in the year 1773, in the vicinity of the new city
of Kanhadar,* which he had designed to be the
capital of Afghanistan. This prince was succeed-
ed by his spn Timur, who keeps his court in the
city of Kabul ; to preserve the foreign possessions
of his father, he made in the first part of his
reign, some desultory expeditions into India ;
but on the issue of an unsuccessful campaign
with the Sicques, he was compelled to relinqiiish
the whole of the Punjab territory. At this day
be retains, on the east side of the Indus, the
principality of Kashmire, the district of Attock,
with some scattered divisions of Moultan, in*
eluding the city and the territory of Schind.
yet Timur Shah derives but few real advantages
from his Indian domain. jScind ^.t the perio4

* Nadir Shah destoyed the old fortress of ]^and^ar, whici^
stood on the top of a high rocky hill, and founded on a con-
tiguous plain a city, entitled Nadirabad ; it was completed by
Ahmed Shah, and is now only known by the name of Kan-
dahar. ,

FomiTER'S TEAYELt. 9d

of fliy journey, was, in a degree, dismembered
from his empire; no revenue had been re-
mitted to Ejibul for the space of two years, or
p.ny measure adopted to enforce obedience ; and
the governor of Moult^ii, confiding on his remote
distance from the empire, and the inactive dispo*
sition of tbe prince, shews only that attention to
the orders of government which is most accord-^
unt with bis purposes. From this oudine you
will perceive, that the Afghan dominion in India
does not stand on a flourishing ground; that,
Hinder the auspices of Tiniur, few marks of its
fsxtension are^evincpd ; or, that it imparts any
leading influence in the afiairs of Hindostan.

Rumours, wafted from the court of Delhi,
bave occasionally agitated our quartier of India,
and taught us io believe, that Timur, with a
mighty host, had crossed the Indus, and was
making rapid marches to Delhi, to restore the
lost authority of the Mogul empire. But this is
an empty tale, framed to raise the spirits of a
decaying, drooping court, or amuse th^ dreaming
politicians of the day. It is, indeed, so opposite
to the truth, that the Afghan prince, instead of
urging a foreign enterprize, seems afraid to move
from his capital.* At this time a common outcry

* Since that period, Timur Shah has appeared in the field,
and proceeded to the province of Moultan ; but his operations,
futile and indecisive, have terminated, after much negociatioa

gd Fosstes IS travees.'

of' the soldiery prevails against ihe*Shah, for a
large failure of military payments ; and it appears
that, since the year 1780^ when he visited Pe^
fehour, where he was treacherously attacked by a
party of disaffeoted Afghans, he has shewn no
desire of leaving* Kabul.*

V Exclusive of his Afghan and Indian domi-^
nions, Timur Shah is possessed of a large di-
vision of Khorasan, which, taking in the city of
Herat, extends on the north to the vicinity of
Nishabor and Turshish, and, on the south, to the
lesser Irak. This prince, whom I have seen, is
about forty-six years of age ; his person is above
the middle size, and rather corpulent ; and, for a
native of Afghanistan, his complexion is dark. In
token of imperial dignity, he wears, on days of

Und threat, in a manifest incapacity to complete the reduction
, of a nominal tributary; and, having dissolved the charm tha(
popular opinion had impressed on his name, he returned iiw
gloriously into his own country.

• -

Note hy the Editors,

* Somp recent advices from India mention, that, in the
jiutumn of 1796, Zemaun Shah, the successor of Timur, had
invaded the Punjab, and haying completely routed the forces
of the Sicqijies, had gained possession of Lahore; but was soon
after Recalled froii> thence to Kandahar, by a rebellion excited
there, during his absenjpe, by a discontented chief, Morad
Khan. Those accounts add, that he was supposed to hayc
suppressed this insurrection, and to be preparing to fCrei^tef •
India with ^ very considerable army. \

FORSTER-S TRAVELS. 97

ceremony, a high cap of black velvet, mth a top
of a quadrangular form.

From a want of vigour in the government,
a thin population,, and the. aversion of the Afghans,
to civil occupations, the rev.enue of Timur Shah
bears an inadequate proportion to the extent of
bis dominion. In Mr. Dowe's History of Hin-
dostan, it is said that Ahmed Shah possessed a
revenue of three millions sterling, and maintained
a standing body of one hundred thousand cavalry.
If such was the state of that prince's power and
resources, it hath greatly decreased in the reign
of his successor, whose whole force, according to
the information I procured in the country, does
not exceed thirty thousand men, or his revenue a
million of our money.

" Cavalry constitutes the chief military strength
of Afghanistan, which, as well as from its own
districts, as its contiguity to Tartary and Persia,
procures good horses,* at a moderate rate. A
corps of infantry, armed with matchlocks, com-
poses also a part of the Afgl;ian army ; but, as in
countries where cavalry is formed of the higher
classes of the people, and denominates military
honour and rank, this body is held in low ac-
count, and is little superior to the undisciplined

* A serviceable horse is procured at Kabul, from five to
six pounds sterling.

Vol. !!• H

98

.>:

FO-RSTER S TRAVELS.

soldiery of India ; and the Afghan artillery Ria7>
without depreciating it, be estimated by the same
scale of comparison. Certain of the brothers of
Timur Shah have raised occasional commotioD^
in the government; and one of them, named
Sicunder, was in open rebellion, but it wa»
quelled without producing any violent efiect.
This prince, who hitherto experiences the obe-
dience and filial duty of his own family, hag
appointed two of his sons, grown to manhood^ t^
the separate charge of Kandahar and Herat:
both of them live in harmony with their fisitheiv
and, are esteemed by the people.

The remains of a colony of Armenians, which
Nadir Shah had captured in his Turkish war^
and established in the northern parts of Persia^
whence it was removed by Ahmed Shah into
Afghanistan, are now residing at Kabul. They
intermarry with their own women, and are
allowed the free use of the Christian religioo,
which is administered by a national priest. They
were attached to the body-guard of the late
Shah, whom they attended in his various expedi-
tions; and those who survived, amounting to
about one hundred, were some time employed
by Timur in the )ike capacity; but since this
prince has personally relinquished tlie^ pursuits of
a military life, and neglected the maintenance of
his army, the Armenians have fallen into grelit

reRSTEK S TRAVEtS. 99

penury. Thqy reside with their families in the
precincts of the Balau Sir, and are permitted, with-
in a prescribed limit> to ^exercise discretionary
occupations. Yet with all the industry which the
tribe so abundantly possesses, they earn but a
scanty pittance. In despite of this grievance of
;the gloomy sorrow pressed on them by poverty,
by. a condition of bondage, to which on this side
of mortality the most sanguine hope can fix no
termination, they evince an unremitting activity
in propagating their species : and would seem
determined to entail on their race an equal por-
tion of that misery which has so largely fallen to
their lot.

From what has been already noticed, it were,
almost superfluous to say, that Timur Shah pos-
sesses little enterprize or vigour of mind. For the
last seven years, he has shewn little inclination to
military action, or th^ aggrandisement of his
Empire. It is true, that, allured by the hope of
acquiring an easy possession of one of the best
cities now remaining in Persia, he sent a body
of troops to besiege Muschid, the capital of
Khorasan ; but th^ wretched equipment of his
array, and the slow progress of the siege, which
was commenced in the preceding year, equally
shew a want of spirit and ability.

The Afghan government, when viewed as
Brtanding on a general basis of despptisn), and

H 3

lOO fOBSTElt's TRAVEtS.

compared with that of other Asiatic states, is not
pregnant with injustice or cruelty. Its edicts are
seldom accompanied* with bloodshed, nor is it
inimical to any sect of strangers. The foreign
and native merchants, enjoy at Kabul an ample
protection, and maintain their rights, with aspirit
rarely seen in a Mahometan country. Capital
punishments are seldom inflicted, and though
the kinsmen of the prince have formed frequent
conspiracies against the state, his hands are not
stained with the blood of his family. Such are the
virtues of Timur Shah, which were exemplified
in various instances, during my residence at his
capital. The ruling vice of this prince is avarice ;
from a dread of the fierce and untractable spirit
of the Afghans, its effectsare not severely felt in
the collection of the territorial revenues ; but it
presses hard on the soldiery and household ser-
vants ; on artificers, and on those merchants
who unwarily vend their wares to the court with-
out prompt payment. The facts, however' de-
sultory, that have been adduced, do not warrant ^
the opinion that Timur Shah is an object of dread
to the bordering states, or that 'he is justly en^
titled the comet of the east, who we have been
taught to believe, will, at some unexpected mo-
ment, shoot across the Indus and the Ganges,
and consume even our remote province of
Bengal ^

forsteb's travels. lOl

The chief strength of the Afghan prince, I
presume to say, is derived from the weakness
and discord of his neighbours. Were the Sicque
chiefs not more apprehensive of a domestic in-
creasing influence, than desirous of subduing a
constitutional enemy, they would, it may be
fairly inferred, speedily extinguish the Afghan
government in India ; and should the Persian
force be thrown into a body, under the conduct
of an able leader, it is not only probable, thai
the dismembered division of Khorasan would re^
vert to its ancient possessors,* but that the
Afghans would again feel a foreign yoke, With
an earnest apology for this long letter, I
fjenjain,

ft

. Yourp, ^p.

102- forster's travels,

LETTER XIV.

Dear Sir,

Having in vain endeavoured tp procure pay-t
menl of my defaced bill, I sold it at half price tq
Bagdasir, my Georgian host, who agreed to abide
hy the chance of obtaining the full amount. God
forgive pie for doubting the integrity of my
Christian host; but, some obscure parts of the
negociation, and the exorbitant prices charged
upon sundry articles which I purchased from him,
induced me to believe, that he had not played me
fair. To throw rash blame on a man, who h^d
rendered me such essential offices of hunianity,
and who is cut off from every help of vindica-
tion, were a breach of one of the grand bonds of
society. Nor had this suspicion been communif
cated, did it not lead to substantiate an observa-
tion I have often made ; that a man, though de,
voted to the strict observance of the minutest cer.
remony gf his religion, with a mipd ostensitfly

^ORSTEtl's TRAVELS, tOS

tfixed cm objects lying beyond mortality, who, like
t:he Georgian, loudly chaunts his morning and
evening prayers, and on his beads numbers a long
list of martyred saints, shall at the same time,
-eagerly grasp at every advantage, which bur world
Iriolds out to him ; nor shall he give even far-
things to the poor. This covering has happily, in
*he civilized world, become threadbare and flimsy,
and except in fanatic conventicles is seldom exhi-
l>ited with success.

Having made liie requidte preparations for

sxiy journey, and hired one side of a camel, on

nvhich a pannier was suspended for my accoinmo-

*<iation, I joined a party proceeding fo Kan-

<3ahar.

On the first September, at Killah Ka«zee, the
aremains of a fort, three fursungs* distant from
.This being a kafilah of camels, which in
ghanistan and Persia are usually driven in the
ight, that the heat of the day and the effects of
*liirst may be less felt, we departed on the even-
ing of the 22d, and early next morning halted on
barren plain, five fursungs. The road lay

** Throngbout this quarter of Afghanistan, and all the do-

inion of Persia, the land measurement is calculated by fur -

ngs, which may be roundly computed, at four English miles.

In some of the ancient authors, this measurement is termed

lE^arasang, agreeably to the alphabet of the old Persic, in

*^'hidi the letter F is not couUined.

104

FORSTER's TRAVEtS* '

through scattered hill? of a moderate height, an^i
a country thinly cultivated.

It is hecessary to inforpi you, that I now ap-
peared in the character of a Christian, confprip-
ably to the counsel of Bagdasir, who had confi-
dently assured me that; np risk would be incur-
red under such a description ; and, he expatiated
also on the grievous sin of throwing out any false
colours on the score of reli«;ion. But it was soon
seen that the exchange involved a multiplicity o^
troubles. Never, perhaps, did the meek and pa-
tient member of primitive Christianity suffer^
among the Gentiles, greater indignity, or more
bitter reproach ; martyrdom only was withheld ;
and that extremity of Christian honour I was in
perpetual dread of; though without any foretaste
of tho3e comforts which flow from ardent zea^,
or a consolatory belief that the church would de-r
rive • either strength or cf edit from my suflfer-
ings.

Thp mpde of travelling which I hdd now adop.
ed being probably unknown to you, I will give •
it, as it deserves, a rough description. The camel
appropriated to the accommodation of passengers,
carries two persons, \yho are lodged in a kind pf
pannier laid loosely on the back of the animal.
The pannier, termed in the Persic kidjahwah, i^
a wooden frame, with the sides and bottom of
wetted cords, of about three feet long and two

^orster's travels, 105

broad, and two in depth. The i^cessaries of thp
passengers are conveyed in the kidjahwah, and th^
Journey being usually made in the night-time^ it
' becomes t^e oply place of his rest ; for on the ka-
filah's arrival at his station, he must imrpediately
exert hjmself in procuring provisions, water and
fuel ; also in keeping an eye over his property tp
prevent theft. Had I been even much accustom-
ed to this manner of travelling, }t must have been
irksome ; but a total want of practice made
it excessively grievous. That you may not thinly
my complaints lU-founcfed, or that I possess
the ingenious though unhappy talent of cre-
ating calamities, I will lay before you a simple
detail of facts. The box which I occupied mea-
sured a length of two feet seven inches, with a
breadth of one foot and a half; and my height
being five feet and nearly ten inches, you will ne-
cessarily grant that equal adcjress and force were
required, tp pack me in so disproportionate a
compass. On reconnoitering the other side of
the camel, I discovered, which alarmed me, an
old woman and an infant. My fears indeed
were soon verified, by the child beginning to cry,
and' the nurse to scold : nor did the alternate
strain cease the whole night. Our camel, too,
was the worst conditioned of the drove ; and a
want of strength made the poor animal stumble
and very restive. His ill properties did not re-

105 iporster's travels.

main long concealed ; for,' before the party had
crept into their seats, the camel, which is accus-
tomed to receive its burden in a kneeling pos-
ture, suddenly arose, when I, the nurse and child,
with our various stock of equipment, fell to the
ground in wide confusion; I then first expe-
rienced a taste of those ills, which are attached to
the profession of Christian faith, in Mahometan
countries.

The caniel driver, an Afghan of the rudest
cast, reprobated me in severe terms as the cause
of the mishap ; but, he could expect no good for-
tune, he said, whilst in the society of an .infi-
del, to whom, only,' were to be attributed the
false steps, and numerous they were, of the cameL
With much joy I discovered, at the dawn of day,
our halting place, where I was relieved from a
complication of discordant sounds, and a cramp
which had benumbed all my body.

At Kabul I had endeavoured to procure a ser-
vant, knowing that in my present character I
should suffer much inconveniency without such
an assistant. But Bagdasir was averse to the^
measure, observing that no Mahometan of cha-
racter would enter my service, and that those
who had overcome their scruples would rob me.
Waving, therefore, so dangerous an accommoda-
tion, I commenced the journey, with a resolution
of boldly facing every difficulty ; yet to obtain the

forster's travels. 107

camel driver's good will, I paid hitn more than
the usual hire.

On the 24th, in the morning, at Azeeabad,
five fiirsungs. The country, which I reviewed at
day-break, was interspersed with low hills, and.
generally cultivated. Having now distinctly
noticed our party, I perceived that Dowran, the
name of the conductor, who plumed himself on
being of the same tribe as Timur Shah, had witn
him a young brother for a helper, and five
camels ,-'Hhree of which carried merchandize, and
two passengers. The cargo of one of these having
been described, it remains to say, that on the
other sat an old Afghan lady of some distinction,
her daughter, very handsome, and two grand
children. The dame began an early contest with
Dowran ; but after some smart skirmishes, she
gained a complete victory over the driver, who
sat down easy under the defeat, by observing that
the lady had sprung from a noble race, and that
the shrillness of her voice made his head ache.
. On the 25th, halted near a small fort, four
fursungs. The night air was very cold, and the
country presented the barren aspect of a bare
plain, on whith were scattered hills of rock and
sand. Dowran's refusal of alt assistance, on the
^core of my being an infidel, and thereby unclean
obliged in§ to go daily in search of water and the

103 yOfiSTEJl's TRAVELS^

dried dung* of camels, the only fuel of these
parts, the kindling of which excited an excru'^
Cjating pain in myeyes. But having fortunately
l^id in a small stock of biscuit, tea, and sugar,
J subsisted without much labour of cookery.
This was, I thjnk, the first period of my life, in
which, to use a trite phrase, I had been throwa
wholly on my back ; for, in the first part of my
journey, I usually fared better than my compa-
nions. My manner was then confident, and the
rough plenty of my board, procured many atten^
live adherents. The reverse now befell me ; I
was treated on all sides with such a brutal con-
tempt, and experienced from a want of every
Ijelp so miany embarrassments, that I grievouly
lamented the dismission of my Mahometan co-
vering ; which I resolved \o take up on the mos^
favourable occasion.

The Armenians, in the course of journeying,
are neither subject; to the grievance which affected
me ; nor do they feel, with much sensibility, the
insults of the Mahometans ; and by chiefly
travelling with associates of their own nalion, a
mutual aid is aflbrded ; besides these advantages,
they possess a flexibility of manners, which r^-

* For the purpose of collecting this fuel, kafilahs seldom
▼ary their stations.

forster's travels. 109

ceives a form from every people with whom they
mix. I have seen them manage, with infinite ad-
dresSy the Hindoo, the Mahometan, and even
the Jew ; a race whom they effect, on a rehgious
principle, to hold in abhorrence ; but the grand
cause of their hatred, is a close commercial rival-
ship. Treatment at which an Armenian would
have smiledjOr endured with profound submission,
I should either by my hands, or at least my
tongue, have warmly resented: for though not
ill versed in the manners of the east, I never had
sufficient forbearance to submit to the reproach-
ful insolence which the Mahometans, especially
the vulgar, exercise towards those of a different
faith.

DowRAN, from my aukwardness in all culi-
nary matters, and a want of strength to assist in
loading his camel, the only qualities in his mind
constituting an useful man, conceived a con-
temptible opinion of me, which he thought could
not be more forcibly ex pressed, than by circulating
a report in the kafilah' that I was a' Jew. This
was a new battery opened against me ; but having
procured the protection of the old Afghan lady,
by fondling the children and giving them sugar,
X successfully combated Dowran, who had now
altogether submitted to a female government.

On the 26th, at Ghizni, four fursungs. This
city remained the capital of an extensive, power-

1

1 10 . FORSTER's tRAVBt#.

ful empire for the space of four hundred yeaf»^ '^
and, according to the historian Ferishta, was
adorned by the Ghiznavi princes, particularly
the great Mahmoud, with many a sumptuous and
stately pile. But, ah ! what humiliating sorrow
did I feel, how quickly did every spark of the
pride incident to humanity subside, on beholding
the fallen state of Ghiznt ! In vain did I look for
its " gorgeous palaces and cloud capt towers-*'
They had been long levelled with the dust, and
save some scattered masses of mishapen ruins^
not a monument is to be seen of Ghizni's former
grandeur. The town stands on a hill of moderate
height, at the foot of which runs a small river,*
whose borders are occupied by some fruit gardens.
Its slender existence is now maintained by some
Hindoo families, who support a/ small traffick,
and supply the wants of a few. Mahometan re-
sidents.

At a short distance from Ghizni, stands the
tomb of Mahmoud, where pilgrims resort from
distant places to say their prayers. But as the
religious acts of such emigrants are rated by the
degree of labour, length, or danger of their
journeys, we are not to suppose that the pilgri-
mage improves either their heads or their hearts :

* Its curreni passes to the w«st or southward, but I am
not acquainted with it* name.

4

foaster's travels. til

though few moral benefits may accrue to the de-
votee from fiis wanderings, he derives from them
a considerable portion of secular advantage. The
Hadji, so he is entitled, who has made the tour
of Mecca, and visited the tomb of his prophet, is
/ ever after treated with a respectful deference, for
it i» the top of Mahometan fashion to be reli-
gious ; and, if a mendicant, his scj;ip never wants
a store.

In mentioning Mahmoud and Ghizni, it were
^irinfiinal to omit the name of the Persian poet,
Fardousi, who, in his Sha Namah, hath given us
a splendid monument of epic poetry, and the
pure language of his country. The protection of
the great doth not always fall to the poet's lot;
nor, but rarely, doth the public munificence
enable him to indulge the bent of his genius*
Griping want often drives him to seek tfce hire-
ling's pittance ; and, even in our enlightened
land, we have seen the cold hand of penury press
him to the grave. More propitious was the for-
tune of Fardousi : it gave him an imperial patron
io Mahmoud, whose praise he too lavishly sung ;
and when, for some failure of the prince's pro-
Biise,' the poet retired into Persia, his country-
men warmly vied in manifesting their liberality
and applause.

The climate of Ghizni is so cold, as to have
become proverbial; and the Afghans told^ me,

lit JOKSTER^S TRAVfiLS.

that the town has more than once be^n ovei^-
whelmed in snow. The road to Ghizni has, X
apprehend, a south-west direction, and is distant^
from Kabul eighty-two miles, at the rate of fouir
miles to a fursung. I have been the more
induced to notice this &ct circumstantially, as^
in our maps, its distance and course from Kabul
is erroneously laid down : some of the Frencb
geographers even place it to the westward o£"
Kandahar.

In the morning of the 27th of September^ at-
Heer Ghut, five fursungs. The country is inter-
spersed with low hills, and produces, except ia
some few cultivated spots, little else than a
prickly aromatic weed, on which camels feed with
avidity; and which, with paste of unsifted barley^
formed into balls, constitutes their common food.
This aivmal is peculiarly useful in countries
where, as in Afghanistan, the roads are level^ the
soil dry, and provender, from the thin population,
generally scarce* The camel, even on much
coarser fare than has been mentioned, endures
severe fatigue, often carrying a load of eight
hundred English pounds; and has so tractable
a temper, that eight of them, fastened to each
other in a string, are managed by two men.
When oppressed with thirst on the road, a camel
throws from its stomach a fleshy substance of a
purple colour, which either returns a supply of "

^vater that has bten previously de|x>tited, or^
Ibeing put into friction in the moiith^ jieMs such
onoiflituiie as gives it occasional relief.

On the 27th, our party halted at the instance
4>f Dowran wholly ; that is, without the previous
asaeDt of the old lady, who inveighed against his
presumption with such bitterness, and so loudly^
thftty stopping his ears, he ran off the field. You
mriU please to observe, that the places, noted as
Inlting stations, take their name either from some
^jacent fort, or, if in an uninhabited countiy,
^om some peculiar aspect or qudaty tbey may

On the 29th, at Meercoot, six fursungs. The
-air bad become now so cold, that, at this period
of the year, and, in a latitude between thirty-four
and thirty-five, the water, which was suspended
do a copper vessel from my camel, became solidly
frozen during the night.

On the 30th, at Mushiedah, in a desert^ six
ftirsungs* In traversing so inhospitable a tracts
little matter of information or amusement can
occur to the' traveller ; but, had he been journe3r*
ing over a land stored with every gift and every
beauty of nature, a companion like mine would
have destroyed his joy, and hav^ converted his
Bden to a desert The nurse of the crying child
was the immediate reverse of an handsome
woman: on this scare she was not responsible^

Vol, II, I

11* POBllTEn S TRAVELS.

and, had she been moderately clean, I had no
right to complain, and might even have derived
entertainment from her talk, which flowed with a
strong current ; but, trusting wholly to this qua-
lification for a passage through life, she seemed to
despise every other care. Her hair was a com-
plicated maze of filth, which had never, I believe,
been explored by comb, and from whose close
vicinity I received a severe visitation ; nor was
her face, while I knew her, once touched by
water.

On the 1st of November, at Tazee, five fur-
sungs, in a barren track. The air became now
very hot in the day, and cold at night.

On the 2d, at Killaut, a fort on an eminence,
six fursungs. This quarter of Afghanistan has
the general aspect of a desert ;^ and, except
some small portions of arable land contiguous
to the places of habitation, no other cultivation is
seen.

On the 23d, at Teer Andazee, six fursungs.
►The night air, hitherto cold and bleak, became
at this place mild, and the heat of the day op-
pressive.

On the 4th, at Potee, a small village, situate
in a populous and fertile district* Potee lies to
the right of the Kandahar road ; but holding some
dependance on our Afghan lady, the two camels
that carried the family and me were dispatched.

FOnSTER's TRAVELS. 115

for her accommodarion, to that place, where she
was received with much respect. Whether the
old lady had imagined, that the humble predica-
ment in which I stood, would deter me from any
attempt to sully the honour of her family, or that
^he had noticed in me a total indifference to all
its motions, I know not; but the truth was, she
made as little account of me, as if I had been
wholly incapacitated from entailing on it apy
disgrace. Nor did I, so temperate had my con-
stitution become from the predominance of other
pyrsuits, feel the least mortification a^ the treat-^
ment.

On the 5th, in an open well cultivated plain,
six fursungs, where^ halting for a few hours, the
kafilah proceeded two and a half fursungs further^
to Kandahar. This city, comprised within an
ordinary fortification of about three miles in cir-
cumference, and of a square form, is^ populous
and flourishing; and lying in the great road^
which connects India with Persia and Tartary^
has been long a distinguished mart.

At Kandahjar are established many Hindoo
families, chiefly of Moultan and the Rajepoot
districts, who, by their industry and mercantile
knowledge, have essentially augmented its trade
and wealth. The Turcoman merchant^ of Bo-
cbara and Samarkand also frequent this mart^
whence they transport into their own country a

I a.

IJ^ FORSTElt's TRAVEty^

considerable quantirf of indigo, with which
commodity Kandahar is annually supplied fron»
various^ parts of- upper India. This city is more
abundantly supplied with provisions, and at a
cheaper rate, than any place I have seen €» the "*
west side of the Indtas, The grapes and' melons*
of numerous kind^ are peeiriiarly high flavocnred^ '
and are comparable with' the first fruits of Eit*
rope. The extensive range of shops occupied by '
Hindoo traders, with the ease and' contenttscnt
expressed in their deportment, aiifords a fair testi-
mony of their enjoying at Kandahar,.* libeny and
protection.

A saif of Timur Shah goveras^ the city, with »
tract of dependant territory, which produces,, it is '
said, a revenue of eighteen lacks of ru j)ees ; and
it may be justly c^ncluded^ from the appearance ol*
all classes of peopte, that this coHection is made
without any extraordinary rigour. The environs^
of KaiidaharT occupy an extensive plain, covered
with hm gardens and cultivation, whiish are in^
tersected with numeroua streams, of so excellent
a quality as to become proverbial ; and the^ eli-
nmt€ is happily tempered, between the beats oi
Bidia and the cold of Ghiznk

It is generally supposed in Europe that Kan-
dahar stands in a country of mountains^ and we *
speak of the lofty passes of Kandahar, as a point
sot kss clearly at)Gertained than the existi^ceof

f6rster's travel*. 117

tlie Alps. Permit me to rectify this popular er-
Tor,> which, like many of a similar textui^^ has
made mountains of mole-hills, and acquaint you,
that the face of the country surrounding the new
city of Kandahar, forms an extensive plain, which
as it approaches the site of the old fortress, be-
comes interspersed with hills i but they are of a
* moderate height ; nor do they form any barrier of
difficult access, or deep extent.

On leaving Kabul, £agdastr, my Georgian
host, bad given me introductory letters to two
Turkish residents of Kandahar ; the «ne kept a
<8mall shop in the bazar, the other, Aga Ahmeid,
-had a warehouse of some note in the karavansera.
This person received me in a courteous manner,
And though then in the diaracterx)f a Christiat), I
did not experi^[K)e any of that haughtiness of man^
fier> with which Mahometans usually regard those
of our faith. Heev^n directed hiscountrymaa,
the shopkeeper, to provide the necessaries for my
journey, and to caref^ally guard ugaifist any
fraud.

The immediate departure of a kafilah, and the
fast approach of wiiMr, when the road^ to Persia
IS impassable, determined me to proceed to He-
rat; though I wished much for a few days resi-
dence at Kandahar. Aga Ahmed made an agree-
inent with the kafilah bashi * for my passage, and

* Bashi in th« Tui^kish language s;i|^ifies head, and is often
applied in Persia to the head of a society ox party.

118 fORSTBR^S TRAVELS.

also that I should be furnished with an attendant :
this benevolent Turk did not formally recom-
mend me to the director's care, but enjoined hira,
on the forfeiture of his favour, to shew me a par-
ticular kindness, which was only to be testified by
producing fny written assurance. Could I have
found a fit associate to divide the cares of hoase-
keeping, I would have remained at Kandahar
during the winter, as I still felt the effects of the^
late sickness, and feared a relapse from the fa-
tigue of travelling ; but the predicament in which
I stood wholly precluded any domestic connec-
tion with the Mahometans ; and that of some
stray Armenians, whom I found there, did not.
seem eligible.

The road from Ghizni to Kandahar, accord-
ing to my gross observations, tends to the south-
west; and the country has generally a barren as-
pect, with a scanty supply of wood and water.
The buildings, from a scarcity of timber, are
constructed, as in the Kabul districts, of sun-
burnt bricks, and covered with a flat arched roof
of" the like materials.

On the 8 th of November left Kandahar, and
proceeded to Koby, three fursungs, a small village
surrounded by a fertile plain. At the distance of
two or three miles to the northward of Kandahar, .
is seen, on the left, the remains of the old for*
tre33, standing on the summit of ^ rocky hill of ^

/

X

forster's travels. 119

moderate height, but abrupt elevation. The road
«.t this place tends over a stony ascent of easy ac-
cess, skirted on each side with scattered hills and
wide intervals of level land. It is the form of
this part of Afghanistan, which has given rise, I
apprehend, to the European belief of the moun-
tains and passes of Kandahar*

On the 9th, at Auskuckaua,' three fursungs, a
small village on a thinly cultivated plain. Our
slow progress was occasioned by the kafilah bashi
remaining at the city to adjust some business ; he
had, however wholly neglected mine, for not a
person, when my sect was known, would even
touch my garment.

My ill fortune on the score of an associate,
which seemed to pursue me with an inveterate
rigour, had now given me, in the place of tke
scolding nurse and crying child, a theological and
very clamorous disputant. This bewildered man,
unhappily fqr himself, and for his nei^bours, had
conned over some of those books of ingenious de-
vices and quaint syllogisms, which are held in high
note among the modern Mahometans, and hav^
iixed among them a false distorted taste. Even
liafis's poems, so conspicuously replete with wit,
and with incitements to mere mortal pleasures,
are tortured by them into praises of Mahomet and
his religion. This fanatical logician was unknown
to the other passengers, but he lost no time in dis-

ISO foestsr's tratels*.

playing to them his store of endowments ; and
seeing me a favourable subject, he directed bis fuU
force at my head.

I HAD engaged the services of a travelling
Arab taylor, and was anticipating the various
conveniences which they promised, when be was
driven from the prospect of an easy livelihood
by the threats of the logician, who denounced
Mabomed's vengeance against him if be eat the
bread of an infideh The poor man, hungry, and
almost nakedj started at the danger, and, fearful
of incurring so powerful a wrath, resigned his
new office, and went to live as it might please
God. Thus had I the dreary prospect of being
pestered, for the term of twjenty days, by this
outrageous Mahometan, who, so far from being
conscioMS of any mischief, believed that he was
performing an act of extensive merit.

On the evening of the 10th, the kafilah moved,
and arrived the next morning at Howrah Muddit
Khan,* six fursungs ; the country open, and the
soil a mixture of light sand and earth, producing
generally that species of weed which has been
poted in the remarks of the road from Kabul tQ
Jiandahan

On the 13tb, at Kbackchamparah, sixfursungs«

* Howrah signifies an artificial fountain, or reservoir of
W&ter; one of which had been constructed at this place ^y
]M\iddit Khfm, for tl^e ftpcommo^^tipn of travellers, .

■*

?PRSTEr's THAV£t9. 131

No marks of habitation were seen during the
journey of these two last days.

On the 14th, at Greishk, seven fursungs, a
large walled village, on the skirts of which runs
a small stream of good water ; halted two days
at this place^ where a toll is collected on mer^
chandize and passengers, and where a stock of
provisions was laid in, to supply our consumption
through a tract of desert country, extending from
this station to the westward. My persecuting
neighbour had already deprived me of ;two ser-
vants, when, after much intreaty, mixed with a
warm eulogium on his extensive capacity, I pre-
vailed on him to moderate his resentment against
me, and cease to anathematise those who might in
future be induced, from their necessity, to eat the
bread of an infidel. He had, by his rhetoric,
precluded me even from the usa of a barber ;
one of whom being observed^ by him at the close
of an operation on my head,' was reprobated for
bis impurity in virulent language, and compelled
to cleanse his razor by an ordeal process, the ex- .
pence of which was defrayed by Christian money.
On paying the charge, I observed to our logician,
whom I now treated with little ceremony, that he
should also cause the shaver to purge the money ^
by the like trial, that he might not be polluted by
the touch ; a precaution, I added, that would
tJoublless have been adopted, but for a fear of

122 roRSTEn's tkAvels;

half the amaum bekig lost m tbe Targe alloy that
debases all Mahomeiaa coin*. I was, he said, an
ineon'igible Kaufir, whom ill-fpitune had placed
whb him on the same camel, and which he feared
€X)uld never thrive under such a weight of sin.

The urgent calls of hunger now gave n^e a
third servant^ who was in his way from Moultan^
ta make the pilgrimage of Muschid.* Thiak
how ardent must have been the zeal which, ini-
ciled this pilgrim to so distant a journey, and
supported him against the inclemency of winter,
and the inhospitality of d rude people, with
scarcely a covering to his back, no shoes to his
feet, or an atom of money in his purse. Though
I gave him some vimtn clothing and substantial
food, be was not able to keep pace w ith our
party. ...

His successor was a KashmiriaD> who had a
countetiance as demure as that of Gil Bias's

a

Ambrose Lamela; and, to the extent of his abi-
lity^ as great a rogue. To enhance the value of
his services^ for which I was obliged to pay
largely, he expatiated on the sin he was about to
commit, eating the salt of an ibfidel ; but I sooa
found there was no restrictiop to his diet. Most
of the Asiatic nations have affixed to salt a cep*
lain sacred property,, but it is held in the highest

^ It is a$ this day the reputed capital of Khor^saiv

poUster's travels,. 12S

degree of reverence by the Mahometans, who
speak of salt as Europeans do of bread. A ser-
vant is said to eat the salt of his master; and,
when gailty of ingratitude, he is stigmatized with
the name of a Nimmock Haram, or, a polluter
of his salt; which is, I believe, the only term
applied by Mahometan nations to such an of-
fender.

Here lam induced to notice the ominous
qualities vulgarly ascribed on some occasions to
salt in our own country ; as when it is acciden-
tally spilled, some part is thrown over the left
shoulder, that the supposed ensuing evil may be
everted ; a cefemony I have seen even observed
by those who were far removed from the lower
classes of life. But early impressions are not ea-
sily effaced, and they often impart to the ideas a
lasting colour ; especially among those who are
seciuded*from the more hackneyed paths of the
world.

On the 17th, at Shah Nadir, a station in the
desart, seven fursungs. This reservoir, built by
'Nadir Shah, is a square of about twenty feet,
over which is erected on pillars a terrace, which
extending beyond the margin of the water, aflbrds
m convenient lodgir^ to travellers.

On the 18th at Shorab* five fursungs; some

* Signifying saU or brackish water, but at tiiis station the
W#ter was ffesb,

1£4 X forster's travels* '

spots of cultivation were scattered around this
station, but no village in sight

On the Idtb at Lungerab, a place of halt, in a
desart country, where we found only one weak
spring of water, which was quickly consumed.

On the SOth at Dilaram, six fursungs^ a fort
in ruins> which is skirted by a rivulet, on whose
margin are seen some scattering trees; a rare
sight in this land ! but ihe adjacent country is
barren and uninhabited.

On the 21st at Buckwau, seven fursungs, asta*
lion in the desert.

On the 22d at Drauye in the desert, six fur-
sung;^ This day the sun 3hot forlh his rays with
great force, and the ground which we occupied
being a bare sand, reflected an intense beat*
Whilst I was panting under a very flimsy cover-
ing, I observed that my neighbour, a Turkomaa
Seid, who had no shelter, was struck by the su%
and lay struggling in a violent agony.

The Mahometans thought him possessed with
the devil, and instead of affording any proper aid^
began an extraordinary conversation with the sup-
posed iiend ; especially my learned associate, whp
in a peremptory manner, ordered the devil to de»
part out of the body of a true believer, and a
branch of the holy stock ; but, seeing that the
command had no effJsct, though conveyed in
Arabic and a vehement tone of voice, I requested

FORSTER^'s TRAVELS. 125

^o interfere ; and lifting the incumbent from the
ground, threw some water on his face, and forci-
"bly poured a quantity down his throat. The
Seid soon felt the natural benefit of this admini*
stration; but the violence of the shock created a
temporary stupefaction, during which he uttered
^o incoherent a language that it confirmed the
opinion that a demon was speaking, and not the
Tartar.

Our logician addressed the infernal perso-
nage in a very spirited harangue, severely repre*
handing his entrance into the. body of one of the
prophet's descendants, and challenging him, thai
the cloven foot might conspicuously appear, to
repeat the Mahometan creed. To this test the
Mattered state of th^ Seid's senses were not yet
eqaal ; nor was it until he had smoaked his pipe,
that be distinctly^ and with surrounding applause,
pronounced his creed and shook off all diabolicarl
connection.

On the 23d, at Ghurmow, in the desert, five
fursungsf. This evening my persecuting com-
panion left our party, and pix)ceeded with some
Hhidoo traders to Fera, an Afghan town of some
note, lying about forty or fifty miles to the south-
^ west of Drauze. But my joy at this riddance,
like most joys of sublunary texture, was of short
duration; for the vacant place fell to the lot of
a much more obnoxious aesociate.

^^^'

126 FORSTER'g TRAVELS*

I BEGIN now to be ashamed at having imposed
upon you so large a portion of private story; yet,
without it, I perceive my subject would be as
barren as the land I travel over, which exhibits
to the fatigued eye, one vast sterile plain, without
rivers, wood, or scarcely a place of human ha*
bitation. Though personal recitals are usually
suspected of vanity, and even in their best sense
partake more of the amazing than the instructive
qualities, you may perhaps gather from my
anecdotes, some subsidiary knowledge of the hu-
man character, an important subject, and not
less various than the human face, , My next asso-
ciate was the Arab taylor, already mentioned,
who succeeded to the vacant pannier by the as-
sistajnce of one of his countrymen in our party,
a trader of some note. A conversation held whqn
I was thought asleep, some nights before, be-
tween the logician and the taylor ; in which the
latter was strenuously exhorted to rob me, boded
no good from the change ; and this counsel was
strengthened by a doctrine very prevalent among^
the lower classes of Mahometans: that it is meri- -
torious and laudable to attack the property of
an infidel. Nor was the advice lost on the tay-
lor, who promised an active diligence in perforoy-
ing the required service. •Coniibining therefore
the interest of the world with that of his jeligiori,
he commenced a brisk attack on my chattels ; but

FORBTIEK S TRAVELS.

12Z

'which, at that time, my vigilance preserved. His
subsequent attempts however were more success-
ful, as were seen in the diminution of my appard.
This freebooting system of the taylor's kept me
in constiant alarm, and displayed every day, in
strong colours, the ill consequences of my Chris-
tian garb.

On the 24th, at Ghiraunee, six fursungs. A
populous walled village, situate near a small run-
ning water. Halted there the next day to make
the payment of a toll, and purchase provisions
for a three days journey over a desert, which
reaches from this place to the confines of Khora-
san. My Kashmirian servant was wholly divested
of religious fervour, or a religious cloak. For he
neither prayed nor washed ; but, was much ad-
dicted to theft ; and while the taylor purloined
. my cloths, he was occupied in stealing my vic-
tuals. Yet this propensity was, in some degree,
compensated by his services, which found active
employment in bringing water and fuel, baking
cakes, and boiling my coffee.

On the S7th, at Khoos, in the desert, five
fursungs. The taylor's payments for conveyance
not being regularly made, the seat was again put
up to sale, when it was purchased by an Hin-
dostany Mahometan, who had left his wife and
feimily at Juanpour, in the destrict of Benares,

I2d « fohstxr's travbu*

and was thus far advanced on a pilgrimage to
Muschid. From the mouth of this devotee, who
•had formerly been a marauding soldier, there is-
sued an almost incessant ejaculation of prayer.
In truth it may be said, that he overflowed in
holy zeal ; for he prayed and cried in a succestdve
rotation. What an extraordinary character would
this be thought in a country where its inhabitants,
though shunning no peril or fatigue in the pursuit
of wealth and pleasure, will scarcely cross a street
to look into a church. The various precepts of
education and religion, established in the world,
but especially, the different orders of government,
produce so strong a dissimilarity in the manners
of men, that in investigating those of the mosi
opposite tendency; they would seem to arise from
beings of a distinct species.

Ox the S8th, at Gimmuch, seven fursungs, a
station in. the desert.

On the £9th, at Ouckal, a large walled village,
standing within the limit of the province of Kho-
raisan, and inhabited wholly by Persians. . It is
proper here to observe, that the natives of Persia
proper, particularly the soldiery, are often termed
at home, as in foreign countries, Kuzzel Bach ; a
Turkish compbund, signifying, I am informed, red
head, and originating from the Persian cap being
covered at the top with red cloth*

forsteb's tkayel^ ' 129

Ok the 30tb, a halt.

On the 31st at Sheerbuchsb, a desert station,
'^shi fursungs. *

On the l9t of Norember, at Zearut Ghah, se^
"ven fursungs. A small village, on the skirts of
^hich are seen the remains of some tombs or rer
ligions edifices.

On the 2nd, at the city of Herat, three fur-
sungs. The road from Kandahar to Gimmuch
leads to the west, of west by north ; from thence
to Herat, it has, I apprehend, nearly a northern
course, yet I cannot account for the sudden de-
viation of the track.* The country is generally
open^ and interspersed with barren rOcky hills of
a moderate height. The soil is light and sandy,
producing naturally little else than the aromatic
weed before noted.

Tlie city of Herat stands on a spacious plain,
which is intersected with many springs of funning
water, some of which are supplied with bridges ;
and th^ numerous Tillages, surrounded with plan-
tations, must afford a pleasant view to the tra-
veller, whose eye has been wearied with the de-
serts of Afghanistan.

The director of the kafilah carried us to the
karavansera, where passengers only are lodged J
the other places of this description being all oc-
cupied by resident traders. In this, square of the
Vol. II. K

ISO FORSreR^S TRAVBLfr

karavansera, I perceired an Armeaian, whotM I
ioformed, with little ceremony^ least he should
bear a less favourable story, that I was an Euro-
pean, returning from India into my own country :
but, for greater personal security, I had assumed
the name of an Armenian* And to quiet any
suspicion of the truth of my relation, I produced
a letter, which the Georgian, Bagdasir, had writ-
ten in my favour to an Armenian, who lived in a
village about forty miles from Herat My address
was closed by observing, that though not in want
of money, I stood in great need of his friendfy
offices, as he must be well aware of the various
difficulties «ffecting those of our sect, especially
w hen alone, among so bigotted a people as those
of Khorasan. The Armenian heard the little ora*
tion, which all my powers of speech had pointed
at him, with a resolute coolness, and perceiving, I
suppose, that my acquaintance would yield no
profit, he turned from me and went away, with-
out even expressing the common terms of civility.
The frequent occasions which have occurred to
me of noticing the Armenian character, soon
cooled my resentment, and enabled qie to recda-
cile the wariness and apathy of this man^ with the
common principles which govern his sect.

The present race of Armenians, like the Jews^
are, with little exception, occupied in commerce^
chiefly in its smallest branches, and having long

/

I

lost with their country the spirit of patriotism, di-»
Vested also of any valuable attainments of kD0W-»
ledge, they exhibit but a faint dLscrimlnitio^ of
character ; being generally industriousi servile^
aad dishonest; they are scattered over various
parts of Turkey, Persia, and India, whefe, ex-
cept in the English colonies, they live on a pre-
carious sufferance, being often, on trivial pre-
tences, insulted, oppressed, and plundered. To
palliate the evils inherent to their situation, and
create a substitute for powers, honours, and na-
tional importance, they pursue the different roads
of traffic with unremitting ardour, and invaria-^
bly measure their pleasures by the mere extent of
their wealths Little susceptible of friendship,
they are rarely induced to afiford even among
themselves mutual assistance, or disposed to pro-
mote the enjoyment of society: the Armenians at
this day are divided into two general classes ; the
one, the most numerous, establishedin the Turkish
dominions ; the other in Persia.

The city of Jolfa, contiguous to Ispahan, was
expressly founded for the accommodation of the
Armenians, by Shah Abbas, who, aware of the be**
hefits that would accrue to his kingdom, from a
commercial and temperate people, gave them an
iample protection, and mieiny indulgencies. He
permitted them, it is said, to accompany their
adventures to foreign countries, and advanced a

K 2

ti4k fdfRSTElt's TllAtttrf.

ciipital to th6se not already opulent, but he altvajn*
kept their families at Jolfa in pledge of good
conduct The Indian Armenians of the Jplfek
colony, and from an actual residence in that eity^
or sprung from families Originally settled thct*(?,
are all conversant in the Persian language. The
vicinity of the Persian gulf, which has long main*
tained an important trade with India, ftafuraliy
allured the Armenians to a region, which at once
held out to them the hope of speedy opulence^
iand the advantages of a temperate gotetmnent
Nor did they ever think of returning into Persia;
Init having amassed a sufficient wealth, purchased'
the release of their families on the payment of
larg^ sums.

From the description given of the ArmeDiatt
character, which I am not conscious of having ici
the least overcharged, you will not be surprised
at the mode in which I was received by my bro-
ther Christian at Herat. But I now determined
to slide into the ]\Iahometan community,, on the
first fair occasion : seeing, that without adding one
benefit, I was like to become a martyr to our
faith. In all parts of the city which I frequented,
I was known only as a Mahometan, except in the
karavansera, where I experienced unceasing insult
and derision ; for the Persians affect a greater
scruple in comniunicating with those of a different
religion^ than any other sect of Mahometans* I

not even peniiitte4 tq draw water ou4; of «.

crouHBon well, but ordered to place my vessel on

ground, which was filled by a persoo faired

the purpose, from a height aijd not touched.

ItVhen I have been waiting for this supply, the

'tLiOwo boys, who in their round of diversion would

occasionally take our karavanserg^ in their way,

'ning that I was an impure person, used tp form

circle round uie, and desired to have the uo-

.n part shewn to them, and seemed much dis-

ippointed, on being told that I was unclean all

My journey liitherto, if not productive of

-Other advantage, has corrected my. former belief

ALahometan politeness and suavity of manners,

ind also I trust, qualified that insolence of icar<»

'j which I have too frequently evinced to iha

a habitants of oup eastern territories.

<^o u LD one of ourlndian grandees in the fullness

his power, seated in a palankeen, perhaps on

elephant, surrounded with jbose bands* of

^siickxnen and piLemen, who disperse £very man

<^a^d j^east that dares to cross his way : Could thii^

personage be transported on the sudden to He**

•at, how speedily would he be divested of his

-flumes, and reduced to his simple value. Whexa-

#B£yer I quitted the purlieus of my lodging, I be*-

^icame a grave hypocritical Mussulman, with the-

.^njoyment of all his privileges ; and- the city £on-

"t^qiniag a various description of people, there wa^

»

■ « ■ v

134 forster's travels.

little apprehension of a discovery. I daily fre-
quented the eating-houses, where all the talk of
the day is circulated, and chiefly fabricated, in
conjunction with the barber's shop, which in He-
rat has a neat appearance. In the centre of it
stands a small stone pillar, on the top of which is
placed a cup of water, in readiness for operation,
and the sides of the shop are decorated with
looking-glasses, razors, and beard combs. Home
having no pleasures for me, I was glad to see
them abroad; nor did I fail in procuring equal
amusement and information. Neither Afghanis-
tan or the northern provinces of Persia, permit
the residence of courtezans, or any women that
dance or sing for the public entertainment. The
northern Persians affect to express an abhorrence
of the Indian Mahometans, whom they reprobate
for a general depravity of manners, and a neglect
of religious duties : yet this temperate and de^
mure people are much defamed, if, under their
mysterious carriage of body, they do not practise
in their different vocations every species of de-
ceit and knavery. In India, it is a well known
fact, that the Moguls, a denomination given there
to all foreign Mahometans, throw off their north-
em doke, and becoming notorious debauchees^
laugh to scorn the precepts of their doctors.

Herat is a smaller cily than Kandahar, but
me^intains a respectable tjrade ; and the iparl^et^

f ORSTSIt's TRAYELI* , 18S

^lacei occupying a .long street, cove;ied with an
:a.rch6d roof, is filled with shops of various wares.
Cread, rice, and flesh meats, with numerous
iruits and vegetables, are equally dieap and abun-
dant ; and tjie grand n^arket, held once a week,
is so crowded with the produce of the neighbour-
ing villages, that a passage through it is difficult
«ind fatiguing. Coarse w ooUens of a strong tex-
Cure are manufactured in the adjacent districts, a
great part of which, made into garnients, are ex-
^ported iato various parts of northero Per^a ; sur-
^Koutsof sheepskin, with the wool in tlie inside,
are^een hanging at almost every ishop, and are
^used by all classes of people m the winter season*
^ small quantity of European commodities is
^rou^t to this city from the gulf of Per^a, coo-
^kting of Ereoch broad cloths, cutlery, small
Jooking-glasses, and prints ; but their low prices
«hew that their dentand is very limited. The por
Jiice of Herat is judiciously regulated, and the
-^administratioa of justice vigorous. Two men,
apparently abovo the ordinary olass, having beeoi
convicted of theft, were suspended by the heels
from a dome, which stands in the centre of the
market, where th^ remained near an hour, to the
terror of u gazing populace ; having witnessed a
part of this expedition, I returned to my lodging
with the interested belief that my property, which

15<3 FORSTER's TBAVBIS.

Tras all in specie, concealed about my person, had
derived fron^ it additional security.

On exchanging some gold at this place, I foand
the rate more favourable than at Kandahar or
Kabul; yet still one in sixteen less than the Indian
value. Though I was unremittingly cautious in .
concealing my money, knowing that discovery
would bring an host of enemies on my bead, on6
of my travelling acquaintances, suddenly opened
the door of my apartment at Herat, a very unusual
practice among Asiatics, and found me examinifig
the state of my finances. At the sight of the gcAd
spread on the floor, he was struck with surprize,
and expressed an eager curiosity to know the oc-
cupation that had procured me so much wealth*
But^ either my speedy departure from Herat, or a
jmore than ordinary honesty in the Persian, pre- .
vented, the ill consequence which I had appre-
hended from the impi^ompt visit.

Khorasan,* the most eastern, thelkrgest, as
well as the most important province of Persia,
participated the various and sefere revolutions
which aii'ected the state of the kingdom, from the
dissolution of the Grecian dynasty, until the end
of. the ninth century, when it was involved in the
Tartar dominion of the Sanamani race; and in

* Khor, in tke ancient Persic, it Is said, signifies the 4ast.
Sir William Jones.

VOBSTEH f TRAVEtS.

Hi

the beginning of the sixteenth century, after ha-
" ving experienced a succession of Tartar and Ara*
bian rulers, it was annexed to Persia, by Is-
nael, sirnamed Sod, from whom the appella^
tion of Sofi has been given in Europe t6 the Per*
. sian kings. ^

Herat had continued the principal city of
Khorasan until the succession of Istnael, who be-
stowed the pre-eminence on Muschid, from its
containing the tomb of Atoozau Reza, his sup-
' posed ancestor, and one of the twelve grand
Jnmums or priests of the Persians. Since Mus-
Chid became the capital of Khorasan, it has been
enriched by large donations of the Mahometans
of the sect of Ali, generally known by the name
of Schiahs. Even Nadir Shah, the least disposed
'<)f the Persian kings to ecclesiastical endowments,
ornamented a mosque, which had been built over
^he tomb of Moozau Reza, with a massy cabinet
-of silver, and a spacious lamp of the same
^metal.

The religion of the toran had existed through-
-«ut the vast Mahometan empire for the space of
aiine hundred years without any essential change,
^when it experienced a severe blow from the intre-
pidity of Ismael, and rapid success of his arms.
3n the course of the first periods of Maho-
metanism, four Arabian doctors,. Malek, Ambel,
Hanneifa, and Shafiee, made cpmmeritarieB on

■*.

ISS forster's TRATKI.8.

the original text, which were adopted by sects^
now severally distingubhed by the names of com*
tnentators. But these explanations do not appear
to hav^ nMlitated with much force against the first
system, or created any violent feuds among the
different sectaries.

As, the grand innovation of the Mahometaa
religion was effected in Persia, and chiefly exists
in that region, I am induced to make a brief
chronological review of some of its more import*
ant epochs, previously to this event* It is seen
th£tt the Tartar Arsaces, having expelled the
princes who succeeded to the conquest of Alex-
ander, established a dynasty^ which flourished for
the space of four hundred and fifty years, and
which, in the two hundred and twenty-sixth year
of the ChHstian aera, was extinguished in the
person of Artabanes, by Ardeshere,* the Arta-
xerxes of the Greeks, said to have been descender
from the ancient race of Persian kings.

Should it be found, which I am induced to
believe, that the Persians and the Parthians are
a distinct people, it is not improbable that the
nations which ancient history denominates Par-
thians, were composed of the Tartars of the Arsa-
cian dynasty, which held a long possession of
Persia, and maintained such fierce conflicts with

^ The successors of tliis prince were denominated Sas^
fl^des, from Sassaoi the fiatber of Ardeshere.

vo^steb's travels* 139

the Roman empire. The dexterity of the archers^
which constituted the strengtli of the Parthiaa
cavalry, and an excursive rapid manner of fight*
ing, which was represented as most formidable
when they appeared to fly from battle, corre*
sponds closely with the military practice of the
modern Tartars, in contradistinction to the other
nations of northern Asia«

The Arabians carried their conquests and their
religion into Persia^ in six hundred and fifty-one
of our sera, from which time it remained subject
to the khalipat, until the middle of the eleventh
century, when it was overrun ^nd subdued by
Jogrul Beg, a Turkoman prince of theSeljukian*
r^e. The successors of Jogrul continued to govern
certain quarters of Persia in the year 1 187, when
the last prince of that race was conquered by
Amalek Dinar, who, in hid turn, fell under the
power of Jakasb, the Turkoman prince of Kha-
fasm : but, in 1218 of our aera, the Kharasmian
empire, the Arabian khaliphat, with the grandest
portion of the eastern world, were swallowed up
in the power of Jenjis Khan, whose posterity helil
possession of Persia for the space of one hundred
and seventy-four years, though ultimately rent
into small principalities by a series of intestine

^ So named from Scljuk, his gratidsire, who occupied a
private station in the vicinity of Samarkand, where be hel4
\9'Tgl^ laoded possessions.

140 forster's travels.

wars. It becaipe, after that period, an appenda^
to the dominion of Timur, and appears to have
acknowledged, in separate governments, a gene^
ral dependance on certain branches of his family,
until the year 1499, when Ismaei Sofi, taking up
arms against the Tartar princes, rose by a q,uick
succession of victory, and assumed the undivided
throne of Persia.

It is seen in Knol!es'« very estimable History of
the Turks, that Ismael was the son of Hyder,
surnamed from the place of his birth, or the resi*
dence of his youth, Ardebil, and that he was
honourably descended. , Retiring from the occu'^
pations of the world, Hyder fixed his abode in the
city of Tauris,_ where he passed an austere ^on-
templative life, and was heid by the inhabitants
of that quarter in great veneration. ITie fame oC
his character soon procured him ttie name of isf,.
prophet, and caused multitudes of people to rcr
«ort to him from all parts of Persia and Armenjotw
The more to seduce the multitude, ever delighted
yfihh novelty, he began to inveigh against the
doctrine of the Mahometans, which enjoins a
sacred remembrance of the three* first successom
of their prophet, and to revive the opinions of ft
certain preceding dervish, named Guini, who w»^
known 5ilso by the designation of Sofi. Up ^s-

* Abubuckcr, Omar, ancj Cteroftft,

MRStEttV THJlVEtS. Ul

serted, as if inspired from above, that none should
enter the kingdom of Heaven but those of the
sect of All, who was the genuine heir and asso*
ciate of Mahomet; and ordained, that thi
memory of Abubucker, Omar, and Osman, •should
be held accursed. The king of Persia, whom
Knolles call^ Assymbeius U^an Cassanes,* tib
strengthen his government and acquire popularity,
invited Hyder to court, and gave him his daugh-
ster in marriage, from which sprung Ismael. Being
now brought forward on a more conspicuous
theatre, Hyder grew into the general estimation
of the people, which alarming the fears of Jacoob,
the son of Hussari, who had succeeded to the
kingdom, he secretly put him to death.

I

* It is seriously regretted that the Greek and Roman wri-
terSy as also many of the moderns, have not delivered to us the
literal names of men and places, which occur in their history
of foreign nations. This want of accuracy, or rather the
impulse of an absurd vanity, has involved the European histo-
ries of Asia in a maze of obscurity ; those, especially, which
represented the series of warfare maintained against Persia by
the states of Greece, and ultimately the conquest of that em-
pire by Alexander of Macedon. The name given by Knolles
to the Persian king', taken from some Latin records, is evidently
4 misnomer, as no such denomination is now in use among the
Mahometans, and w'e know that no change has affected their
names since the first establishment of the khaliphat. His regal
title, being a Tartar, might have been Azim Bog, signifying a
great lord or prince; and his domestic appelation, Hussaa
4?assiro. •

14£ 70HST£R*S TRAVStSp

IsAiAEL, flying from the power of Jacoobj took
refuge with the chief of a small territory op the
southern borders of the Caspian sea^ named Pyr*-
chales^* Some of the friends of Hyder retired at
\be same time into lesser Armenia, then subject
to the Turks, where they promulgated their doc-
trine with success. Their disciples were distia*
guish^ by a red band tied over the turban^
whence it is said they first obtained the appella*
tion of Kussel Bash, which, in the Turkish lan-
guage, as has been already noticed, signifies red
bead. Ismael, during his retirement, advanced,
with zeal, the tenets of his father ; and being, by
nature conspicuously eloquent, of a penetrating
genius and austere life, of a comely person and
invincible courage, was, by the vulgar, counted
more than human. The nobles of the neighbour-
ing country, allured by the endowments of Ismael^
and the specious novelty of his doctrine,. resorted
to his place of abode with offers of support; and,
though seeming to shun them, he was invested
with authority, honourj, and wealth. In token
of his rare qualifications, and a belief in his
power of prophecy, Ismael received the title of
Sofi-, " which," saith KnoUes, *^ signifieth, am(H>g
these people, a wise man, or the interpreter of
the Gods-f'

* So expressed by Knolles.*

t This word,^! apprehend, is purely of Greek origin j thb

fOBSTBR's TRAVELS. 143

The death of Jacoob, which must have hap-
j>ened at an early period of his reign, and the
tumults that ensued in Petsia, then usurped by
one Elvan Beg, whq was also engaged in a warr
iEgite with his brother, named Morad, encouraged
Xsmael to urge his fortune on so promising a field*
Obtaining some military aid from Pyrchales, bis
£rst protector, he penetrated into Armenia, where
recovered the patrimony of his family, and
cordially received by those who had favoured
Iiis father. Pursuing his success, he penetrated
Mnto Shirvan, he took and sacked Shah Machee>
'Kbe capital of the province, by the plunder of
"^Rrbich he largely increased the numbers and hopes,
^>f his army. Elvan Beg had now expelled Mo-
ved, and was busied in punishing some of the
jprincipal citizens of Tauris, the capital of the
kingdom, for having taken up arms in favour of
Jhis brother, when Ismael suddenly approaching
Ybe city, took it without opposition. Elvan, de-
prived of other support, formed an alliance with
Ais brother, but in his progress to form a* junction
"^;vith the army of Morad, he was vigorously at-
^^acked by Ismael, and slain in battle ; the con-
queror marched without delay against ]\Iorad,
"^fvho was encamped at Babylon, and compelled

3ilahometans had at this period, been long conyersant in
Oreek letters.

144 FOltSTElt's TRAVELS.

him to fly into the Arabian desert :* he rose with-
out a competitor to the throne of Persia.f

Is MA EL is .perhaps the first prirrce, who at once
Conquered a spacious kingdom and the religious
prejudices of its people* Nor does it a;ppear that
any of those violent commotions were excited,
which usually mark the progress of. ecclesiastical
reformaiion. The system- of Hyder and Isniaei
was founded on the position, that Mahomet had
given his daughter Fatima to Ali, as a' mirk of
the greatest affection, and bequeathed to him the
succession of the khaliphat. But, that in defiance
of this sacred testament, Abubucker, one of the
associated friends of IMahomet, setting aside thfe
claims of Ali, had assumed the powers of govern-
ment, Wiiich at his death, were also forcibly held
in a donsequent administration by Omar and Os*
man. Bui, that the injuries of AH, having uki-
mately roused the divine interposition, he became
the ruler of the Mussulmans.^ This doctrine
being unanimously received, I&mael ordained, that

• Where he was cuj off by domestic treachery.

+ Ismael's accession happened about the yeslr 1508.

X In commemoration of the four first successors of Maho*
met, who were ^Iso his confidential associates, and by their
enthusiastic courage, had been his grand instruments in ag'-
grandizing the khaliphat, the general body of Mahometans,
except the Persians, are often termed Char Yarec^.or those of
the four friends. They are likewise called Soonis, an Arabia
word, signifying the followers of the right path.

JfORSTEft's TRAVELS* l45

as the three first khaliphs were usurper^ and sa-
crileorious violators of the last mandate of their
prophet, their memory should, at the five stated
times of prayer, be reprobated with every ex-
pression of contumely, and the severest ven-
geance of God denounced against them. He also
inserted, at the conclusion of the Mahometan
creed, that Ali, , is the friend or the beloved of
God, and directed that he and his posterity should
be distinguished by the appellation of imaums,
or holy men.* In contradistinction to the Soonis,
who in their prayers cross the hands on the lower
part of the breast, the Schiahs drop their arms
in straight lines ; and as the Soonis, at certain pe-
riods of the prayer, press their forehead on the
ground or a carpet, the sectaries of Ali lay on the
spot which the head reaches, a small tile of white
day, impressed with characters sacred to the me-
mory of Ali.

* The real number consists of eleven persons^ to ^bich a
twelftb, supposed yet to come, bas been added ; their nam^
are Ali, Hussinand Husseyn, bis sons, Zyne-ul-Abedein» Ma«
hornet Baukur, Jafi&er Sadue, Mousa Kazim, Ali Mousa Besa,
Mahomet Tuckee, Ali Nughee, Hussin Anscany and Maho*
met Mbedy. The titles bestowed usually on Ali are, Ameer«.
ul-Momenein, Mortiz Ali and Hyder. This last denomina-
tion, signifying a lion, is particularly given to Ali, when his
military exploits are rehearsed. But when the profoundest re**
9pect is expressed for his memory, he is entitled Ameer-ul**
JMomenein, or lord of the faithful*

Vou II. L

J - ■ ,

145 forstbe's travels.

Some classes of the Schiahs believe that Ali
was an incarnation, of the deity, who perceivings
they say, the mission which had been delegated
on Maliomet to be incomplete, assumed the per-
son of this khaliph, for the purpose of fixing the
Moslem faithand power on a firmer basis. The
Schiahs have imbibed strong religious prejudices^
i^re more inflamed with the zeal of devotion, and
consequently leas tolerant to the other sects than
the Soonis. In Persia they do not permit a
Sooni to eat at their board, and in common lanr^ .
guage, without provocation or heat of tecnper,
they call him an infidel. But in what light, dear
sir, will you view a numerous and a civilized peo-
ple, who have produced writings that would ex*
alt the name of the most polished nations, yet in
solemn deliberate expression, imprecate God'e
wrath five times a day, on the souls and ashes of
three men who never did them an injury, and who^
in their day, advanced . the empire of Mahomet
to a high pitch of glory and power. Not ap-
peased with uttering the keenest reproaches
against the memory of 'these khaliphs, they pour
a torrent of abuse on every branch of their fa^
milies, male and female, lower even than the
seventh generation. I have seen their imagina-
tion tortured with inventing terms of reproach on
these men and their posterity, and commit ver«
^ bally every act of lewdness with their wives.

forstee's travels* 147

daughters, and the progeny down td the present
day. The Soonis, though aware of this unvaried
ceremony of execrating the memoi^ of men,
whom they have been long taught to hold in
reverence, and that ihey themselves are stigi^a*
tized as infidels, do not even, when fully em-
powered, intemperately resent this persecuting

spirit of the Persians.

In the division of Khorasan, subject to the

Afghan empire, the Persians enjoy a fair portion

of civil and religious liberty, and are rarely

treated with insults. * .

In noticing the more liberal opinions of the
Soonis, in the practice of their religion, I am
brought to the recollection of an occurrence>
which places this fact in a conspicuous point of
view.

An Armenian merchant from Ispahan, accom-
panying an adventure of some value, came to the
karavansera, in Kabul, where I lodged; and
though five of his countrymen were on the spot,
the other residents being Jews, Mahometan^
.and Hindoos, not one of them advanced to give
him welcome, or an otFer of assistance ; and to
augment his embarrassment, all the apartments
of the serauce were occupied. In this predica-
ment stood the Armenian, and he must have lain
in the street, had not a Turk invited this forlorn
Christian into his owa apartmeot j and he fed

1 8

. I

us FORSTEft^S TRAVEtd.

I

him also at his own board. One of ihe Armetiian
tribe, after some days, taking shame perhapd
from the Mahometan example, or expecting some
advantage from the cargo of his countryman,
tendered him a part of his habitation, which the
stranger at first refused ; nor did he accept the
invitation, until seriously admonished of the crime
of forming so close a connection with an infidel.

It is now time to revert to my own story, and
inform you, that it had been my first intention to
have proceeded from Herat to Reshd, the prin-
cipal town of the Ghilan province, which lies a
few miles inland from Inzellee, a Russian factory,
on the border of the Caspian sea. It is a com-
puted journey of seventy days, of about twenty
miles each, from this city to Reshd,* but the
road which leads through the lesser Irak,f has
a deviating course from the direct line.

Being informed by the Armenians of Herat^
that Russian vessels navigate along the coast of
Mazanderan, to which a stmight track lay from
hence, though not much frequented, from being
subject to the depredation of the Turcoman Tar-

* From Herat to the town of Jubbus, a route of fifteen
^ays;. thence to Yerd twenty-five ; toCashanten ; and a fifteen
days journey, to Reshd*

t There are two provinces of Irak, the lesser and greater ;
the latter, tferraed Irak Azeem, of which Bagdat is the ca-
pital, chiefly depends on IVkish and Arabian emirs.

. FORSTBlt's TRAVSL8. 140

tors, I was resolved to pursue this route, at
once direct and wholly unknown to European
travellers.

A KAFiLAH being about to proceed to Tur-
shish, a town lying in the direction of Mazanderan,
I made an agreement with the director for a con-
veyance ; but with a confidential stipulation, that
I was to be received in a Mahometan character ;
and the better to guard against a discovery of my
person, I took the name of an Arab, a people
little known in this part of Persia, and the know-
ledge of whose language is confined onl}; to some
of the most learned priests.

Some days before my departure from Herat,
an Afghan Seid came into my appartment, and
perceiving in the course of conversation that I
ivas a Christian, he exclaimed, with sensible emo-
tions of joy, that he had now obtained a favoura-
ble opportunity of revenging the grievous in-
juries sustained by many of his holy ancestors at
the hands of infidels, and that unless I paid a
fine of five hundred rupees,* I must repeat the
-creed of Mahomet, and be circumcised. Pre-
tending an ignorance of the purpose of this de-
^onand, I carried the seid, with a mischievous in-
tention I confess, to the next quarter, where the

• Such pecuniary assessment is termed Jayzeah; and is oc-
casionally levied in Mahometan countries, on those who do
WmA profess the faith of Mahomet.

2

150 FORSTER's TRATRL8.

Armenian corps, four in number, were then ash
sembled, and requested the principal of them^'
who spoke the Persian language with fluency, to
explain the substance of the seid's demand ; and
this was precisely the point to which I wanted to
reduce the question. When the hungry Afghan
perceived, that instead of one Christian he had
found five, his exultation had no bounds. He
swore by his beard, that we should all incur the
fine or circumcision. Oh ! what a glorious sigb!^
cried he, will be displayed to our prophet, when
these hs^dened .infidels, renouncing their heresy
and impurities, sliall become a portion of the
faithful : what a triumph to our holy religion !
The expedient which I had adopted, though not
a fair, was for me a fortunate one ; as the con*
troversy, which became serious, was now more
equal. The seid called loudly on the Mahome*
tans in the name of the prophet, to assist in com*
pelling the enemies of his religion either to em-*
brace it, or by administrating to the wants of his
descendants, contribute to its support ; the Per-
sian residents of the karavansera endeavoured to
assuage the Afghan's intemperance ; but they
quickly withdrew all interposition, on being told
that the toleration of their doctrine was a greater
indulgence than the maintenance of their exe-
crable tenets deserved. The seid experiencing,
however, more obstinate resistance from the

voRsteb's travels* 1^1

Christians than he had expected, it was evidently

^ ^seen, that however ardent might have been his

zeal for the advancement of religion, he was not

the less mindful of his temporal welfare; and

permitting himself, after displaying great powefs

in this holy war, to he soothed by the suppliant

infidels, he withdrew his threats for a trifling sum

of money, far disproportioned to the first de-

tnand. And here I must observe, -that when I

saw the resolute and judicious manner in which

the principal Armenian conducted his shai*e of

^,he conflict, I felt a compunction for having in^

-^tisolved him in so serious an embarrassment.

At Herat I found, in two karavanseras, about
one hundred Hindoo merchants, chiefly natives
of Moaltan, who by the maintenance of a brisk
commerce, and extending a long chain of credit,
have become valuable subjects to the government ;
^but discouraged by the insolent and often oppres-
«iv6 treatment of the Persians, they are tarely
induced to bring their women into this country.
When the Hindoos cross the Attoek, they usually
' put on the dress of a northern Asiatic : being sel-
dom seen without a long cloth coat and a high
cap. Some Jewish traders reside also at Herat,
where they are accused of practising cdl that
system of chicane, to which their tribe is so no-
toriously addicted in the western world. Beiftg
habituated to the noaiiners of upp^r Asiiai and

152 porster's travels.

cbnvcrsant in most of its languages, the Jews and
Armenians mix with little personal inconveniency
in Mahometan societies.

The. leading customs of the various nations, of
Asia are similar, or but weakly diversified. When
they sit, the legs are crossed, or bent under them ;
they perform topical ablutions before and after
meals, at which no knife or spoon is used, unless
the diet be wholly liquid. They invariably adopt
the like modes of performing natural evacuations.
And all the hair of' the body is shaved, except
that of the beard; yet this last usage is more
peculiar to upper Asia, where, likewise, all de-
grees of people cover the head, affixing the idea
of indecency to its being bare ; and they never
enter an apartment covered with a carpet, with'-
out pulling off their shoes*

On taking leave of the Armenians, I could not
help observing, perhaps unseasonably, that, inr
stead of contributing to my assistance, in a laqd
where our sect already experienced many griev-
ances, they had considerably fncreased them, by
withholding even the inferior oflfices of humanity ;
but that I cordially forgave . a treatment which
was to be agcribed to the excess of caution con-
stitutionally inherent to their tribe. The princi-
pal Armenian earnestly urged me to open myself
to him, and disclose the mystery which appeared-
in my character* It was not in reason, he s^icl.

POKSTER^S TRAVELS, 153

to believe that motives of curiosity, as I alledged,
could have induced me to incur so much fatigue,
danger, and expense, which were only to be com-
pensated by the prospect of gain, or a pilgrimage
to Jerusalem. But the Armenians, said he, are
now the only visitors of the sacred tomb, and in-
deed the only pure Christians now existing. He
was of opinion,' in short, that my story was a
counterfeit, and concluded by asserting, that I was
a jewel-merchant, or a spy. I endeavoured tp
explain, that, among the natives of Europe, it was
a conimon usage to visit foreign countries, where
an observance of the manners and arts of various
people improved the understanding, and produced
a more extensive knowledge of mankind ; and that
a frequent intercourse with nations of different
customs and religious opinions, taught them to
fihake oiF domestic prejudice, and to behold all
men with the eye of common affection. To this
language, which he had probably never befofe
heard, he listened with an air of vacant wonder ;
but, as the doctrine did not square with his senti-
ments of the world, he ultimately treated it with
contempt; wishing me, however, a better journey,
he said, than my plan promised.

On the evening of the 22d of November, I
left Herat, and halted that night at Alum Guffour
Chushmah,* three quarters of a fursung. Here

♦ Cbushmali, in the Persic, signifies a natural fountain.

154

FOtlfttEft's TRAVELS*

let mt ag^m crare 3'aur indulgence for tfr*
copious self-narration already imposed on you>
and for that which I fear is yet to come. But
what can I do ? Northern Persia is, at this day,
(Equally void of events as of letters, and has but
Ifetv monuments of grandeur. You must, thfert*-
8[>re, extend a large portion of patience ov^
these communications, and by permitting me t6
'speak of myself, the favourite amusement of all
travellers, you will make me a sufficient rec^nol*
pense for all the little chagrins which I incurred,
and some solitary hours which I passed in thfc
course of my journey.

The kafilah director, Aga All, and his family,
which consisted of his mother, wife," and a ser*
vant, having consented that I should be recciVetl
amgng them in the character of an Arab, going
on a pilgrimage to Muschid, I joined the party at
an appointed place, whither every persoil resorted
except the females ofourfamitj^ on whose heads,
and indeed all parts of them, many an indecent
reproach was throwrr. There was no mortal iH
which these women did n6l deserve to feel ; but,
when women were concerned in any undertaking,
what ^ood could result; exclaimed all the enraged
Mahometans. Night approaching, the kafilah
moved, and left Ali to escort tbe ladies, in which
service I was also retained. On their arrival he
began to utter some angry language; but it soon

I

POBSTER's TKAVBL3. l55

l>ecame manifest that we were members of a
female goverment, which was conducted by the
mother of AH. She seemed in her manners^ not
unlike the Afghan lady whom I heretofore endea-*
voured to celebrate, but had less fierceness and'
decision ; the deficiency, I presume, arose from
the .constitutional difference between^he tempers
<rf an Afglian and a Persian ; for my new dame
evinced the same thirst after supreme sway, but
exercised it with more mildness. AH remaining
at the town gate to make some toll payments,
dispatched the ladies and me, under charge of
his associates, who, perceiving our progress to be
very slow, and the night far advanced, left us
with little ceremony. When Ali arrived, he ex-
pressed much resentment at the scandalous de-
sertion of his friends, and many thanks for my
attention ; though I could hear him murmur at
the indecency of Mahometan women being in-
trusted to tiie charge of an infidel. But All's
honour might have remained safe in the mos^
intemperate' quarter of the world ; and, for my
part, I was so grievously loaded by a heavy
musket which he had given me to carry, that,
had his spouse been a Venus, I would not have
looked at her. No apprehension now existed of
a scolding nurse, a crying "child, oi: a. fanatic
disputant ; or, indeed, of any thing which could
actually offend ; for my present associate waa a

156 forster's travels.

bag of rice, from whose good neighbourhood I
anticipated much satisfaction.

On the evening of the 24th, moved from the
.Chushmah, and arrived the next morning at Dhey
Soorcb, four fursungs. Some little cultivation
was seen, but the general face of the country
bore the same wild inhospitable aspect, as in the
eastern quarter of Khorasan. The benefits at-
tached to my new character, were now conspi*
cuoi>sly testified. I was, fi-om my supposed sect^
entitled Hadji, and much courted by all tbf^^
passengers, especially when the given purpose
nay journey was understood. No person in. tl
description of a Christian should attempt to malu^
a passage through this part of Persia ; shoul4 14*
through a train of favourable events be accMD-
plished, he will be harrassed and defrauded, even
on a principle of religion, and ever insulted irith
impunity. The attempt, indeed, I think imprac^
ticable, and liable to subject the adventurer to
imminent danger.

On the 26th, at the Pool, or Bridge of Skebo,
three and a half fursungs, in an uncultivated
countrv. This bridge, built of brick and mortar.
Stands over a small river whose name I oould not
learn, running to the southward or Icf^ and is
fordable at most seasons.

Ox the C7th, at Corian, a large Tillage, four
and a half fursungs. In this neighbourhood, I

forst£r's( travels.

157

saw some windmills, for grinding corn ; they are
constructed on the same principles as those of
Europe, but instead of canvas wings, broad leaved
flags are substituted. The toll gatherer at Corian
affects to observe a peculiar vigilance in the exe-
cution of his office, which he saw occasion to exer-
cise on me.

Passenge us, proceeding to the westward, usually
procure a passport at Herat ; but being averse to
[t, mode, which might have led to inconvenient ex-
planations, I did not apply for this document,
le officer, though glad of the omission, held out
utter impossibility of passing without the sig-
ire of governnient, and argued with much de-
on the crime of disobedience. But feeKng
of my money in his hand, he observed that
^se admitted a favourable construction ; that
^an Arab, and a pilgrim of the holy tomb of
Ifd. He would therefore relax a little, he
^so good a cause. To put money in thy
as necessary in Khorasan as it was ia
[fth the diffisrence, that there the more
^he garb, the greater respect was shewa
whereas in Asia, the security and
[Of Ufe, often depend on a wary con-
ealth, and all its appendages.

The coi
camel driver,^
marine passen]

ints of Asiatic traveller against a

not less frequent than those of

in our coi^ntry, against the mas-

158 F0B8TBR S TRAVELS.

ter of a ship, and oftentimes with the like want of
just cause. Men under restraint and deprived of
accustomed amusements, become unreasonable in
their desires, and fretful from the natural disap-
pointment of vain wishes. The cross incidents
which their situation necessarily produces, and
which a degree of skill might qualify, are dften
outrageously ascribed to their conductor. This
preliminary, though militating against myself, I
thought but honest to the exhibition of certain
charges against Ali the kafilah director. The first
shews, that having bargained with this Mahome-
tan, on the payment of a stipulated sum, for a
conveyance to Turshish, be at the first halting
place laid me under a contribution, on a pretence
of the extraordinary weight of my baggage^
though he well knew^ that the equipment of a
mendtcant, could not have been more slender.
This demand was no sooner adjusted, than he
commenced anqther attack, not on my purse,
though that was weak, but on my fame, which
was vulnerable all over.

Ali seeing me generally addressed by the title
of Hadji, and treated with a marked civility, was
much mortified, and began to sap the importance
I had obtained. He whispered to some of those
with whom I associated, that I was no Hadji, nor
even one of the true faith. They expressed great
surprize at this information, but blamed him for

POESTEB*S TRAVELS. l5ft

Ihe disclosure, nor did they ever communicate the
story to the other passengers, or abate in their
former attention.

On the 29th, at Charsoorch, seven fursungs, a
station in an uninhabited country, and supplied
with one well, whose water was barely sufficient
for the supply of our party.

On the 30th, at Tursala, three and a half fur-
iBijangs, a station in the desert, near a well of brack*
kh water.

On the 1st of December, at KaufF, sevea fur-
sungs, a populous, and in this country a large vil-
lage, which maintains a moderate traffic with
Herat, Muscbid, and Turshish. Markets and
public shops being on)y seen in the cities and
principal towns of Persia and Afghanistan, tra«^
vellers are obliged to apply for provisions to the
housekeepers, who are often unable to provide the:
required quantity. Though KaufFisa village of
qote, bread in no part of it is publicly vended,
and having occasion for. a three days supply, I
advanced the required price to a Persian, who,
after^eeping me in waiting till midnight, abscond-
ed. Bread and the cheese of sheep's milk, when
procurable, was my common fare ; which, with a
water beverage, gave me a vigour and strength
equd to the daily fatigue I incurred. And when
the inclemency of the weather is considered, and
bow brol^en bi9 r9&t.must be who is. carried on the

160 FOSSTER^S TRAVEL?*

back of the roughest paced animal that mov^,
thrust also into a crib not half his si2e, and stuil-»
ned by the loud clamours of the drivers, you'
must grant that no ordinary texture of constitu-
tion is required to accompany the kafilahs in
northern Persia.

Having witnessed' the robust activity of the
people of this country and Afghanistan, I am in-
duced to think, that the human body inay sustain
the most laborious services, without the aid of
imimal food The Afghan, whose sole aliment is
bread, curdled milk and water, inhabiting a cli-
mate which often produces in one day, extreme
heat and cold, shall undergo as much fatigue, and.
exert as much strength, as the porter of London,
who copiously feeds on flesh meat and ale ; nor
is he subject to thelike acute and obstinate disor-
ders. It is a well known fact, that the Arabs of
the shore of the Red Sea, wha live with little ex-
ception on dates and lemons, carry burdens of
such an extraordinary weight, that its specific
mention, to an European ear, would seem ro-'
mance.

On the 3d of December, at Ruee, four and a
half fursungs, a populous village, where a fall of
snow produced a change on the face of the land;
to which I had been long a stranger. Halted on
the 4th, on account of the inspection of some
goods which bad been damaged by the weather."

forster's travels. 161

Three Persians, with myself, occupied the lower
part of a windmill, which our joint endeavours
to defend from the cold were wholly ineffectual ;
yet my companions seemed little affected by it.
They were horsemen, and having no attendants,
were obliged to clean their cattle, and go in
search of forage, fuel, and provisions ; these
offices they performed with alacrity, nor did they
once shrink from the boisterous drifts of snow and
a north wind, that, T verily believe, must have
swept every mountain- top in Tartary. My body,
which a residence of twenty years in India, had
greatly relaxed, and a recent sickness enfeebled,
was open to every touch of those rude blasts, and
I saw, with mortification, a North Briton screen-
ing himself from a climate which imparted vigour
to an Asiatic. My associates had been horsemen
in the service of Timur Shah, but disgusted at
his ill payments, they had retired, and were re-
turning to their families at Nishabor.

O^ the 5th, at Say Day, five and a half fur-
sungs, a small fortified village, whose adjacent
lands, extending in a valley, seemed to be well
cultivated.

On the 6th, at Ashkara, five fursungs, a small
fortified village. A great quantity of snow fell on
our arrival at this place, and the weather be-
came so tempestuous that the kafilah could not
proceed. Our party went into the fort to sfeek

Vol. II. M

162

iokstsr's travels.

shelteri and after earnest intreaties, were con-
ducted into a small dark room, barely capable of
defending us against the storm, which had liow
set in with violence. The inhabitants, aware of
our distress, furnished an abundant supply of fuel,
which became as necessary to our existence as
. food ; but wh^ the cold was a little qualified,
wc experienced an urgent want of provisions^
not an article of which was to be procured at
Ashkara. This dilemma dismayed the stoutest of
us, and became the more alarming from the ap-
f>arently fiiced state of the weather. Yet, such
cordial pleasures are inherent in society, that
though pent up in a dark hovel, which afforded
but a flimsy shelter against the mounds of snow
furiously hurled against it, our good humour with
each other, and an ample supply of firing, pro-
duced cheerfulness and content.

One of our associates, who had received a more
than ordinary education, and had a taste for
poetical literature, amused us with reading Jamis^s
story of Joseph and 2uleicha,* which for its
scenes of wondrous pathetic adventure, and the
luxuriant genius of the poet is happily adapted
to soften the rigours of a winter's day. Nor was
our companion deficient in accompanying the
reading with that energetic eniphasis and deep

*• • The Patriarch of -^-gypt. Zulcicha is the name giren by
the Arabians to the wife of Pbtipl^ar.

VORSTElt's TftAYELS; ]fi$

»

msal lone, which in the east is thought highly
ornamental to the recitation of poetry.

As our pleasures and our sorrows exist largely
in the imagination, and as at this period my
idi^as did riot wander beyond the circle of my
residence, I felt comforts in my present situation,
^ual perhaps to the enjoyments of the most Fe<»
fined societies. How often, in the fervour of my
heart, have I prayed for the fortitude which is
said to' have actuated the stoic school, that I

St *

might shackle, or at least qualify the passions
that are continually precipitating us into depen^^
dance and embarrassments, and establish within
myself a resource for conducting all the opera*
tions of life. But the wish was futile, nor would
the gratification of it accord with the oeconomy
af human nature.

The inhabitants of Ashkara were now busily
employed in commemorating the death of Hus-
seyn, the second son of Ali, who was slain at
KaribuUah, in the vicinity of Bagdat, where a
monument has been erected to his memory, and
whither the Sohiahs numerously resort, iu the '^
first ten days of the Mahometan montti Mohur-
rum,* to ofFer^ up their prayers. Hussin, the
elder brother, was poisoned by some female ma-

* The Mahometan moathi being Lunar, the feasti observed
in Ramsar and Moburrum are moveable,

M %

f<

164 FORSTER'S TRAVELS^

chination^ ; but the celebration of this event,,
which is noticed at a different period of the year,
does not produce that tumultuous lamentation,
and often dangerous effects, which accompany
the memory of Husseyn's fate.

A PILGRIMAGE to the tomb of Husscyn, con-
fers the title of KarribuUahee ; which classes
next after the Iladji, and before a Muschidee,
an appellation given to those who visit the shrine
ofMuschid. The pilgrims of KaribuUah make
grievous complaints of the insults and oppression
of the Turks. Yet it would seem that persecu-
tion inflames and invigorates their sense of this
religious duty, so that it is merely rated by the
extent of difficulty and danger it occurs j for I
have known a Schiah travel from the banks of
the Ganges, to prostrate himself at HusseyilV
tomb, amidst the scoffs and rigour of the Turks.
To prevent the Afghans from throwing a ridicule
on their observance of the Mohurrum ceremonv,
which happened during our halt at Ashkara, the
Persians shut the gate of the fort, and comme-
morated %he day by beating their breasts, and-
chaunting, in a mournful tone, the praises of
Hussevn.

In India, though the proportion of the sect of*
^li is small, and Husseyn only known but b^ his
name, this occasion never fails to excite extrava-
gant tokens of grief and enthusiasm; and it often

ffOESTER's TRAVELS.

165

happens, that' the masquerade mourners, im-
pelled by a violent agitation of their minds and
bodies^ and heated also by int(;);K:i€ation, commit
desperate outrages : but the fact is, that all die
natives of India, Hindoos and Mahometans, are
wonderously attracted by public exhibitions, and
those of the most glaring kind. Though any ex-
ternal commemoration of Husseyn's death is re-
pugnant to the doctrine of the Soonis, those of
India cannot resist so alluring an offer of gratify^
ing their love of shew and noise. Many of the
Hindoos, also, in compliance with this propensity,
and the usage of their Mahometan masters, con- '
tribute largely to augment the Mohurrum proces-
sions. I have heard Mr. Schwartz, the Christian
missionary on the coast of Coromandel, as piou$
a priest as ever preached the gospel, and as good
a man as ever adorned society, complain that
many of his Indian proselytes, disgusted at his
church's want of glitter and bustle, take an early
opportunity of going over to the Popish commur
nion, where they are congenially gratified. by the
painted scenery, by relics, charms?, and the blaze
of fire-works. From Schiahs and Sopnis, Protest?
ants and Roman Catholics, I am forcibly brought
to the business of the day. It is the roguery of
a camel-driver, . on whom, should you ever trave*
in Persia, never put your faith* Ali now gravely
infprmed me, that he meant to proceed, on the

166 FOB«TVii^8 rmkv^uu

itext day, towards Nishabor, ^wt that he would
provide a <ronveyance for me to Turshish on aa
ass. It was in vain to talk of engagements, tiw
injustice of foi failing them, or the sum I had
advamced ; and had -not one of my associates
pleaded my cause with a spirit that intimidated
him, Ali would have laughed at my plea.

On tlie 10th, the storm having;' abated, the
kafilah moved before day-break, and arrived iqi
the evening at (loondeabad, six and a half fur-
sungs, a small village, situate in a well-cultivated
plain; watered by many rivulets, Ali, with an iD
grace, procured for me one side of a camel; the
other being poised by a bag of rice, consigned t<»
the market of Turshish ; my companions, who
had continued to treat me with much kindness,
proceeded from this station to Nishabor, which
lies about seventy miles to the north-west of
Hoondeabad.

Th'E division of Khorasan, which has been
annexed to the Afghan empire, seems to be
■wholly intrusted to the management of Persians,
who, though a conquered people, live in the
enjoyment of every right, civil or religious, which
could have been granted to them under their own
princes. We met a party this day returning from
the army, which Timur Shah had sent to besiege
Muschid. This city, on which depends a small
tract of territory, is governed by Shah Rock, a

FORSTBK*S TRAVELS. 16T

grandson of Nadir Shah, and, I believe, the
only branch of that prince's family now in
existence.

^ Shah Rock is the offspring of Mirza Kuli,
the eldest son of Nadir Shah, by a daughter of
the Sultan Husseyn, who was driven from the
throne of Persia by Mahmoud the Afghan. After
Nadir's death,* the empire fell to the possession
of Ali, his nephew, who cut off all the descendants
of Nadir, except Shah Rock, then a youth, whom
be intended to raise nominally to the throne,
-.lould the Persians shew any strenuous opposiJ-
tion to his government; but being, in a short
time after his accession, encountered by his
brother, who, by liberal donations, had collected-
a strong force, Ali was defeated and taken pri-
soner in the field. Ibrahim, though at the head
of a numerous army, and possessing the southern
provinces of the empire, saw the impracticability
of attaining the dominion of Persia, whilst Shah
Rock, who was much beloved in Khorasan, held
the city of Muschid, where a large portion of the
treasures of Nadir were deposited.

That he might the better succeed in his
design of seizing the person of Shah Rock, his
otily rival,, he declared this prince, by ^ lineal
descent from Nadir and the race of Sofi, to be

♦ Nadir Shah was assassinated at the age ol ijxty years,
liear Muschid, in ti^e fn9Pt)> of June, 1747*

l68 forster's travels-

the rightful beir of the kingdom,. and by public
deputation invited him to Ispahan, that he might
there be invested with the diadem of his ancestors.
The adherents of Shah Rock, averse from entrust-
ing him to so powerful and suspicious a charge,
made an advantageous use of Ibrahim's profes-.
sions, by instalHng, with the necessary ceremonials^
the young prince at Muschid. Ibrahim, bafHed in
the design of drawing Shah Rock to Ispahan, caused
himself to be proclaimed king, and proceeded to re-
duce the chiefs of Khorasan : but squandering bis
treasures by an indiscriminate profusion, and hav-
ing disgusted his troops by an injudicious choice of
officers, he was betrayed by them, and, together
M'iili Ali, thenr his prisoner, delivered to the
ministers of Shah Rock, who put the brothers to
death.
/About this period appeared, it is said, a de-
■sccndant of the ancient Sofi family, who had
escaped the massacre of the times, and improving
to his purposes the distraction of the kingdom
and the minority of a young prince, he suborned,
by a largess, and extensive promises, a party in
the court of ]\Iuschid ; and having procured, at a
secret hour, admittance into the palace of Mus-'
chid, he seized the person of Shah Rock, and
deprived him of sight. This act was soon pu-
nished by the death of the perpetrator ; but Shah
Rock, cut off by this calamity from the hope of

FORSTER's TRAVEtS. Y&J

empire, was contented to remain at Muschid, in
the possession of a* very limited revenue.

He has two sons, Nadir Mirza, and Wulli
Neamut, who are waging against each other ah
inveterate predatory war. Wulli Neamut being
driven from the city, has collected a body of
cavalry, which, in KhOrasan, are ever ready to
to rove in quest of plunder, and are at this time
levying a general contribution on every village,
karavan, and traveller, within his power or reach,
not sparing even the pilgrims. After an ineftec-
tual effort to enter the city, he solicited the
assistance of Timur Shah, who sent a small army
to join him, and besiege Muschid ; but their
knowledge of artillery is so limited, that the
Afghans, after the campaign of a year, have only
been enabled to straighten the supplies of the
besieged.

When the extensive conquests of the Afghans
in Persia are considered, the spacious empire
which they have so recently founded, and their
general reputation for military prowess, I felt a
sensible disappointment at seeing their armies,
composed of a tumultuous body, without order
or common discipHne. It is seen, however, that
they were good soldiers under Ahmed Shah, who
himself, a prince of conspicuous military talent
and a discerning patron of merit, was empowered
to give his troops that force which they constitu*

176 V|flST£E's TftA^ELf.

lionally possess. Yet even un()er this famed leadt
er, the Afghans, impetuous an4 haughty, from the
forrt) of their government, were n^ver an obisdient
soldiery ; and the severe epcoupters which Air-
med Shah experienced from the Sicques, when be
uUinaately evacuated the Punjab, are attributed
to the desertion of his troops, who, already enrichr
ed by the plunder of India, retired in l^rge bo-
dies to their own country.

Though far short of the opinion I had forn^ed
of it, the Afghan army is much superior to that
of Persia at tlie present day, wIk) long deprived
of a monarch, and subjected eUl^r to a foreign
yoke or the precarious authority of petty chiefr
tains, have lost with their patriotisii) the spirit of
eoterprize. It appears that the Persians have
been ever ill acquainted with the use of tire arms^
and that their grand successes were obtained by
' the formidable onset of their cavalry. Little other
proof indeed is required of their, want of skill»
than a review of Nadir's long siege of Bagdad,
which, though ^ fortification of mean tenability^
baffled all his effort^. The matchlock- piece^is the
common weapon of a Persian foot soldier/ except
in the province of Auderbeijan, and in some parta
of Shirvan and Dhaghistan, where the use of the
spring-lock musquet has been adopted from the
Turks; but the ridicule which has been thro wa
on this practice by the body of (he people, >wiU

probably long prevent iu general introductioo.
^Tbe severity of the winter season has now obliged
the Afghan army to retire into quarters, and af-
forded a temporary rdief to the inhabitants of
Mnsehid, who' began to feel a want of provi<r
^ons.

The young chief of this city, in defiance of the

representations of his clergy, has cmned into cur-

■5^nt specie such of those ornaments with which

^tbe ostentatious zeal of the Schiahs had for two

<:entories been decorating the tomb of Mooza

Sleza, as had been preserved £rom forjner depre^

<lations. Even Nadir, tlie avowed foe of priest*-

Ixood, made his offering at the shrine of Muschid.

"^But fais descendant, fearing that the whole fabrip

"would fall into the unhallowed bands of his ene^

snies, has wisely sacrificed a part, to prevent a

-^otal destruction. Yet his efforts wmU probably

he fruitless ; for if the Afghans return to the

*«^ge, they will derive a^ronsiderable aid from the

low state of the Muschid treasury, which I am

informed is nearly consumed. Mobile the priests

inveigh wkh sufficient acrimony against the sacri«>

"Serous seizure of Nadir Mirza, there is no Iimi(

to their invectives against hi« brother, on whom

-Hhey deprecate the severest divine vengeance, for

calling in the inveterate foes of their religion, to

the destruction of the only sacred city left in the

possession of the sect of Ali.

lit forster's travels.

On the 1 1 tb, at Fidgeroot, a small fort, three
and a half fursungs, situate in a cultivated and
generally a plain country, in whose vicinity are
seen many fortified villages.

On the 13th, at Dochabad, four and a half
fursungs, a populous open village, protected by
an adjoining fort, and distinguished by a manu-»
facture of raw silk. The districts of Dochabad'
form the western boundary of the dominion of
Timur Shah, which, in a direction fromKashmire
to this place,* occupy by a gross computation

a space of ■ British miles. Were

this spacious extent of territory governed by as
vigorous and enterprizing a prince, as it is
peopled by a brave and hardy race of men, the
entire conquest of Persia would not be of diffi-
cult attainment. But Timur Shah inherits no
portion of his father's genius, and his power is
seldom seen or felt, except some object of wealth,
and of safe accoiopHshment, be held. out to his
avarice. The existence of the emperor is then
felt, and, for the day, dreaded. Here I am check-
ed by a fear that these opinions may be thought
presumptuous and dogmatical, and that from 3len*
der opportunities of acquiring information, I have
decided with an unwarrantable peremptoriness on

* It is to be noted, that some petty chiefships lying be*
twcen Kashmire and the Indus, are held by indepcndan^
Afghans. ' ,

l^ORSTER^S TRAVELS.- 175

the character of a prince, in whose country I have
been but a mere sojourner. I have only to urge^
that the language which I have held, is prevalent
iii the country, and its truth strongly niarked in
all the operations of government, which come be-
fore the public eye.

On the 13th, at Koot, si^c fursungs, a village
dependent on the chief of Turshish. From the
vicinity of Dochabad, a waste extends to this
place, on which is neither an inhabitant, or the
least token of vegetation; and it should seem
that nature had interposed this barren sand to.
preclude the assaults of war, and even discourage
a disposition to social intercourse. T6 the north,
extends a lofty chain of mountains covered with
finow,''^ and the other quarters shew a tract of
sand, thinly marked with craggy hills.

Tlie proprietor of the camel on which I rode,
had carried me to Koot, his place of residence
fearing to carry his wares, principally composed
of rice, to the town of Turshish, least the chief
should take it at an arbitrary price. He told me
that his cattle were not destined for that place,
whither I might pursue niy way in the best man-
ner I liked, except on his camel. The fort of

* AToad leads over these mountains to Muschid, which*
is said to be one hundred miles north west from Turshish,
smd about thirty miles to the northward of Nishabor.

174 FOBSTER's TfiATXLf*

Tursbish being at no greater distance tban fwd
miles, I would have proceeded without hesitation^
could I have carried my baggage, wliich, though
ofjittle value, was too heavy a load for me. After
much intreaty it was transported at my charge, on
the back of an ass,* to the karavansera at Tor-
^sh ; there I found every apartment occupied ;
but the application of a small piece of moneys to
the gate-keeper, who regulates the distribution of
quarters, introduced me to a lodging, occupied
by only one person. The 8,tranger accosted me
with evident tokens of joy, observing, that the
solitary life he had passed at Tursbish, was very
tiresome to him, and that he expected a cordial
relief from my company. This reception was
happily adapted to my purpose, and promised my
Mahometan character a fair introduction. It was
agreed that a joint board should be kept, that
my associate, jet weak from a late sickness,
should prepare the victuals, and that I should fur*
nish the water, and a laborious duty it was^ there
being no good water at a nearer distance than m
mile.

Here I must inform you, that tUs was by no

♦ The Persian asses are of a strong make, and much used hf
dealers in small and ordinal*)^ wares. I have seen the convey-
«nce of large parties, consisting of those animals, which apptar*
to he more active, and «»idurc more fatigue than those o(
England.

forstbb's TRAVBL»« IJti

means a degrading duty, and is performed by tra«
veliers of a rank much superior to that I held,
and also that few travellers in this country, of
whatever condition, exhibit any appearance of
wealth, fearing the oppressions of governtnent^.
and the licentious exactions of the toll gatherers*
JBven men of opulence do not darry a servant
PafivioudLY to the commencement of a jour*
ney, societies, are formed hi the place (>f rendet**
vous, where the different offices are dlotted to
6ach ; the most rdbust generally provide the wa«
tsr; some are employed in the kitchen, wbiia,
others go in quest of provisions and provender
£>r the entitle. Should tiio prior opportunity have
cifibred to fix such a scheme, it is acy usted on the
fit^t halting day, and preserved on a cordial foot-
ing throughout the journey. It is not to be in«
ferred that certain attentions are not also shewa
.to the men of rank, who attach themselves to
these parties. When known, and they are soon
distinguifihedj they become, by common consent
exempt from the more laborious occupations, and
all aged persons are invariably treated with ia
refiipectful indulgence. My present companion,
wbose name I never knew or asked, was overcast
with a fixed melancholy reserve: nor, could I
extract from him other information, than that he
bad last come from Asterabad. But he studiously
avoided giving me any intelligence of the affairi^ of

176

porstek's travels.

that province, especially of the Russian trade
there, which I much desired to know, and of which
he must be informed ; and though he seemed to
like my company, or perhaps my assistance, he
soon became to me an unpleasant colleague. Id'
a few days, his departure to Herat left me sole
tenant of a dark solitary lodging, with the advan-
tage, and with the privilege of being unreservedly
admitted into the society of the karavansera, as
a pure Mahometan.

In the course of vacancies, I got possession of
a more commodious apartment, in the corner of
which I found, at first entrance, a decent looking
old man smoaking his pipe. On enquiry it ap-
peared, that he was then wholly at large ; but that
his usual subsistence arose from vending certain
spells, which were powerfully efficacious in cdn-
ferring every species of worldly happiness, and
consequently in the preclusion of all evil. Yet
hewas willing to shut up his book, he said, should'
any other prospect of maintenance be held out.'
This being the person I was in search of, I made
him a cordial tender of my assistance, and invited
him to a participation of my fare. ' The offer
came to him, poor man, at a convenient season.
It was now the depth of winter, and he honestly
confessed to me, that his charms had so bad a run
at Turshish, that even a scanty meal was earned »
M'ith difficulty. -

c

JbRSTER^S TRAViiLS. 1^7

I'he mollah, which was the title he bad de-
rived from his professional skill, with a natural
good temper, had acquired an accommodating
disposition ; he was all things to all men ; and he
found a full exercise of those qualities during our
association. The little regularity I observed in
our domestic system, especially in the hours of
eating, was subject of frequent complaint to the
inollah, who applied to the business of the kitchen,
in which he had attained an eminent proficiency,
with an active attention ; nor was Sancho more
attached to its produce ; and he also reprehended
my disregard to those dishes which he most fa-
voured. ' His cen$ure generally conveyed an eja-
culation of surprize, at the neglect of a concern
the most important to man, or at my bad taste,
which he alledged, must have been vitiated in the
course of my journeying through barbarous coun-
tries.

Having enjoyed during my acquaintance with
this mollah so many conveniencies, and so pleas-
ing a quiet of mind, I often review the scene with
sensible emotions of pleasure. For my strength,
fts well as my spirits, had been much exhausted
by the fatigues of the road, and various moles-
tations necessarily incident to a traveller of my de-»
/^ription. The cold being intense, aqd tbe country
covered with snow, it l)ecame expedient, m the
first instance, to lay in a stock of fuel, which is a.

Vol, h. n .

17S

irORSTER S TRAVlfrLS*

dear commodity at Turshisb^ that we mighty at
leasty communicate an external heat to our bo-
dies ; for our creed precluded any interior cor-^
dial, nor durst we even mention its name. But
we were moderately recreated by a wholesome
diety large fires, a clean hearth, with plenty of
Persian tobacco, which is of a most excellent
kind.* When I have contemplated the progress
of my associate in his culinary occupation, in
mixing with care and earnestness the ingredients
of a hodge-podge, stirring it vigorously with a
large wooden spoon, blowing and arranging the
£re, till his eyes were red, I have been prompted
to compare him to a Prussian Serjeant, immersed
in the fury and enthusiasm of drilling a squad of
recruits, and cudgelling into their bodies all the
ability of their brains. Nor could one of our
minute virtuosos have been more inflated with
pride at the discovery of a pew species of snail,
than the mqllah, in demonstrating the qualities of
some favourite dish.

The excellent services of my companion now
left me at liberty to walk about the town, collect
information, and frequent the public baths. la
the evening we were always at home, when the

* That produced at Tubbus, a town about one hundred
miles to the south*west of Tun»hish, is esteemed the best ia
Persia*

FOKSTER's TRAVELft, 17gi

Mollah, at the conclusion of our meal, either
read a story of YusufF and Zuleicha^ which he did
but lamely, or opening his book of spella, he
ivould expound the virtues of his nostrums, which
embraced so wide a compass, that few dieases
of the mind or body could resist their force.
They extended from recalling to the paths of vir-
tue, the steps of a frail wife, and silencing the
tongue of a scolding one, to curing chilblains,
and destroying worms. His practice he told me^
had been more extensive than profitable, being
chiefly employed by the lower classes of people ;
the rich rarely sought his aid. He was meditating,
he said, which I had now obviated, a journey to
Muschid, where he would have been enabled to
pass the winter, a season always of anxious care
to him ; as for the summer he never bestowed a
thought on it.

Thk duty of religion sat rather loosely on the
mollah, for out of the five daily prayers,* he
usually struck off four, and on many days the
omission was total But observing that I was yet

* The first, a short one, is said before the break of day ;
tbe second on the earliest appearance of light, a period usually
denominated the Wokt >)emaz, or time of prayer ; the third
about two hours before sun-set ; the fourth at the close of the
evening; this is also termed the Wokt Nemaz, and the fifth
in the course of the night. The second and fourth prayei>
aie most regularly observed.

N 2

180 forstbr's travels.

more relaxed, be would gravely censure my
negligence ; not that I was degraded in his Opi-
nion, but it was necessary, he said, to maintain
a decorum of manners, that the people of the
karavansera might not make unfavourable re^
marks. The spirit and tendency of the mollah's
observation, when impartially considered, dis*
closes the grand tenure by which the religion of
Mahomet is at this day held. It is on the daily
recital of five prayers,* washing as often, and a
restriction from a certain food, that the Maho-
metan builds his hope of Paradise. And the re<-
putation of such a person, in Persia, is equal to
that of our men of virtue, honour, and humanityw
Even to that of our man of fashion. *

On the other side, he that shall neglect these
ceremonies, though he may execute, to an ample
extent, the duties of a good citizen, is branded
with the general mark of contumely ; and should
his condition of life not be sufficiently eminent
to command respect, he is cut off from many of
the benefits of society. That I my point out to
you more especially the opinion of a Mahometan
on the essential efficacy of forms, I am induced
to relate an observation of the mollah. In speak-

^ I have seen grave long bearded Mahometans, retire a
few steps from "the exhibition of a lascivious dance, and in
the isame apartment kneel to their prayers, which hastily
muttering, they returned to the amusement.

forster's travels.

181

lug of an Afghan, who had himself access to the
karavansera by an agreeable and friendly disposi^
tion, he said, that he willingly subscribed to the
compass of his moral merits, but was sorry to
see them vitiated by offering up his prayers with
folded hands. Does it not astonish you, that the
mind of a creature so exquisitely formed by the
great lord of nature, should have become so
strongly fettered by the shackles of prejudice,
should have formed ideas so derogatory of his in-
finite benevolence, as to be fearful of approaching
hi^ altar but in certain positions and flections
of the body.

Teavelling once with some Persians on a
sultry day, and over an ill-watered country,
the party unexpectedly approached a small
stream, where, hastily dismounting, I drank a
cvp of water with avidity, one of the Persians
who stood near me, cried out in an earnest tone,
while I was finishing the draught, to reserve a little
in the bottom of the vessel, and throw it on the
ground with an execration on the memory of
Yezid.* On seeing that not a drop remained,
he viewed me with evident marks of detestation,
and pronounced me a kaufir. But. Persia has
long lost her men of genius and philanthropy. 'The
day of Terdousi, Sadi, and Hafiz, is set in bar*

^ The chief who slew Husseyn the son of Ali.

182 FORST£B*S TRAVELS.

barous darkness ; and little else is now written
or listened to, except the legends of priests, or
the chimerical exploits of the twelve Imaums,
which nearty quadrate in style and matter with
our renowned nursery hist6ries of Tom Thumb,
or Jack the Giant-killer; though with a more
pernicious effect ; for the Persian writings
strongly tend to eternise amongst them a ran-^
corous hatred to all those of a different creed.

It is recorded that the cotemporaries of Hafiz
were so much offended at his bold disquisitions
en the religion of the Koran, and witty stric-»
tures on the loose conduct of the clergy, that at
Jiis death they hesitated to perform the usual
obsequies. • Yet the latter Persians have not;
only acquitted Hafiz of any charge of irreligion,
though almost every page of the poet refutes the
position, but they assert, that under the cloak of
his sportive pleasurable exhortations, he describes
the excellency of their fiiith, and the future hap-
piness of piouB Mahometans.

While the mollah and I were enjoying the
conjforts of a commodious appartment^ and sa-
voury messes, made in rotation, of beef, mutton,
and camel's flesh, on a sudden, every room of
the karavansera was tumultuously filled by a
large body of pilgrims* from the shrine of Mus-

* They were pjiicfly inhabitants of Tabrid, tl^e ancieji|
T'i^urus, I believe, a town in the province of Anderbeijan,

I* '

rORSTER's TRAVELS. IS%

chid. What an exuberance of zeal must have
animated these devotees ! which neither so distant
and perilous a journey could deter, or the in-
clement season of the year cool. The present
winter was accounted moi^ rigorous than had
been for some years remembered, particularly in
the quarter of Muschid and Nishabor, where
two of these pilgrims had perished in the snow,
and others had lost their limbs by the severity
of the frost.

Ik that band, which rushed into our apartment
was a person who seemed to take the avowed
lead ; he was better equipped than his associates,
and wore on his head the insignia of a hadji ;* a
pilgrim, who supplied the place of a servant, be-
gan to reconnoitre the room, and as soon as he
Botieed its situation, he dislodged, without ce-
remony, and with much facility, from one of
its corners, the very portable chatties of our poor
niollah ; and in the voice of authority, declared,
tiie place assigned to the use of the hadji, whom
he represented to be of superior rank and impor-
tance.

The hadji took his seat with a solemn air, and
looking haughtily round he'threw his eyes on me,
and immediately asked, or rather demanded my

* In Persia it is a strip of cloth, commonly green, rolled on
ihG edge of the cup..

1S4 FOBSTEft's TRAVELS.

name and business The question was conveyed
io a manner which fully evinced the power of the
interrogator ; indeed I quickly saw^ from the
party's deference to hira, the necessity of ob*
serving a respectful conduct to this superb Ma«
bometao. I told him that I was an Arab, travel-*
ling to .Muschid ; but judge of my confusion,
when the hadji began to speak in my supposed
language. Endeavouring to suppress my embar-
rassment at so complete a conviction of falsity,
I observed, that I had assumed the name of an
Arab, for the purpose of travelling with more
safety ; but that I was a native of Kashmire, pro-
ceeding on a mercantile concern to Mazanderan.^
Such stories, which in the east may be described
by the smoother term, simulation, are in commoa
use among Asiatic travellers ; and unless other
testimony corroborates their relations, little
credit is given, nor is much expected. It is suf-
ficient that their true story remains concealed.

This emendation of my account produced
no apparent surprize, nor any further interroga-
tion ; and from the mode of the hadji's behaviour,
it was evident that I had not suffered in his opi-
nion. The last year of my life had been occu-
pied in an invaried scene of disguise, with a
language wholly fabricated to preserve it ; so that,
God forgive, me, I never wanted a ready tale

fpr current u§e, I h^y§ m^ pnly to hope, tb^t

muster's travels*^ 185

when it may be no longer expe4ient to support
the part hitherto so successfully maintained, I
ihall be enabled to throw off the cloak with all
its garniture for ever. The hadji was a resident
of Balfrosh, the principal town of Mazanderan,
tvhere he maintained a considerable traffic; he
had joined the Tabrez pilgrims at Muschid, and
was now on the way back to his own province.
The occasion of accompanying this party was not
to be foregone ; as few roads are of more dan-
gerous passage, than that from Turshish -to the
Caspian sea, and consequently not much fre-
quented. The hadji, to whom I applied for a
passage to Balfrosh, affected to lay various ob-
iBtacles in my way, and seeing my anxiety to pro-
^ceed, he made his bargain conformably, that is,
3ie stipulated for a double amount of the usual
3iire.

The territory of Turshish, which takes in about

ms , . . ' miles from east to west, and nearly

"half that space in latitudinal direction, is held by
AbeduUah, an independent Persian chief ; he
aeems to be forty years of age, has a respectable
appearance, and assumes that air of gravity
which strongly pervades the manners of th^ high
classes of Mahometans. His administration is
.well liked by the people, who seem to act and
speak very much at their ease. Passengers are
nevpr interrogated, nor is a passport required.

186 yoRSTEa's travels.

Adjoining to old Turshish, called also Sul-
tanabad, which is of small compass, and sur-
rounded with a wall, Abedulla has built a new
town, in an angle of which stands the karavansera,
the only one I havie seen in Persia^ which is not
interiorly supplied with water. The chief and
his officers reside in the new. quarter, where is
also held the market, which the inhabitants say
has not been so well supplied since the Afghan
troops have laid waste the districts of Muschid,
and thereby impeded the traffic of this quarter of
Khorasan.

The trade of Turshish arises chiefly from the
import of indigo and other dyes from the west-
ward, w oollen clotlis and rice, which is scantily
produced in the vicinity, from Herat. And the
chief article of export seems to be iron, wrought
in thick plates. The small quantity of European
cloths required at Turshish is brought from Ma-
zanderan, by the way of Shahroot, or from
Ghilan, by the way of the great road of Yezd.
About one hundred Hindoo families, from Moul-^

•tan and Jessilmere, are established in this town,
which is the extreme limit of their emigration on

* this side of Persia ; they occupy a quarter ia
which no Mahometan as permitted to reside," and
where they conducted business without molesta-
tion or insult : and I was not a little surprized to
see those of the Bramin sect, distinguished by

PORSTER*S TRAVELS* 187

the appellation of Peerzadah, a title which the
Mahometans usually bestow on the descendants
of their prophet. Small companies of Hindoos
are also settled at Muschid, Yezd, Kachan,
Casbin, and some parts of the Caspian shore ;
and more extensive societies in the different towns
of the Persian Gulph, where they maintain a na-
vigable commerce with the western coast of India.
The departure of our kafilah now drawing
near, the hadji purchased a horse for my convey-
ance, with the money which I had advanced ; but
not thinking my weight and baggage a sufficient
burthen for the animal, by no means a robust one,
be added two heavy parcels of dyeing stuffs, on
-which I was to be seated. This was the most ra-

J

pacious Mahometan I had yet known ; not satis-
fied With the first extortion, he urged me, with-
Out intermission, for a loan of money, even the
most trifling sum ; in other words, he wanted to
cheat me. There are, I believe, few such men
amongst us as Hadji Mahomet. He had the re-
putation of being an opulent merchant, and he
was connected with persons of the first rank in
bis country ; his deportment was grave and dig-
nified; his manners in common intercourse were
so forcibly insinuating, that he never failed to
please, . even those who knew and had ex-
perienced his ill qualities ; he had, on the osten-
j^}^le $corj& of devotion, made pilgrimages in Ara-

. ■■'.!. \-

188 forster'^s travels*

bia, Turkey,. and Persia; he prayed with undevia-
ting regularity five times in the day, besides a long
roll of supererogatory orisons. Yet this man of
property and rank, of polite manners, and pro-
fessed sanctity, having in vain aimed at a larger
sum, importuned me in abject language to lend
or give him half a croun. But my feelings hav-
ing become callous, from a long association, I
suppose, with those who had none, I was enabled
to withstand, with intrepid coolness, the intrea-
ties of the hadji, who seemed to take the refusal
nothing amiss ; indeed, I imagine, he accounted*
me a person of discretion, and conversant in the
business of the world.

That I might the better guard against a sus •
picion of the character I represented, especially
in tlie mind of the hadji, who to his other ac-
quirements united unsatiable inquisitiveness, I
told him that I was a Sooni, imagining that the
low estimation in which this sect is held in Persia,
would prevent further notice. The hadji did not-
approve of this character, which was rarely seea,
and much abhorred in this part of the country ;
nor would it be safe for a Sooni, he said, to travel
in the society of Schiah pilgrims, who, elevated by
their late purification at Muschid, would assunie
a merit from insulting and ill treating me.

By the council of Hadji Mahomed I becanoe a
Schiah^ aud was received among the pilgrims with*-

porster's travels. I89

out a scruple. It was, believe me, with no little
concern, that I parted from the mollah, who had
been to me an useful as well as a pleasant compa-
nion ; and in the unreserved intercourse which
had for some days subsisted between us, I expe-
rienced a pleasure, the more sensible, as my situ-
ation before had been solitary and irksome. In
his dealings, I found him punctually honest,* for
conceiving an attachment to this harmless conju-^
ror, I used to make enquiries at the places where
he made his purchases for me, but never disco-
vered a false charge.

On the morning of the 28th of December, left
Turshish, and about noon arrived at the village of
Killeelabad, two and a half fursungs. Our party,
.consisting of about six or seven persons, the Ta-
brez having not yet joined, halted at a small
karavansera, where being plentifully supplied with
fuel by one of the villagers, to whom our hadji
was known, we passed a cold snowy night very
comfortably.

On the 29th, at Hadjiabad, a small fort, three
fursungs. When the chief of this place was in-
formed that Hadji Mahomed was our leader, for
though of a distant province, Re was well known
in Kborasan, we were invited to the fort, and
hospitably entertained.

This day my horse gave many tokens of inabi-
. iity to support the heavy burthen that had been

2

igO . rORST£R'8 TRAYELS.

laid upon him. He eat little, sweated Buicb^
and often stambled. In one of his inclinations,
I was thrown from my elerated seat, with a vie*
lent shock, and received a violent contusion on the
hand. Instead of expressing any concern at the
disaster, the hadji sharply reprehended my want of
skill, and predicted ill success to my undertakings.

At Hadjiabad the pomegranates are of a deli-
cious flavour, a property indeed of this fruit in
most parts of Persia. It has a thin soft skin,
and contains a large quantity of juice, than which
nothing, in hot weather, or after fiitigue, can bemore
grateful. There is a species of the pomegranate,
in Persia, and also in Afghanistan, whose gran-
ules are without seed, called the Redana;* it is
of a superior kind, and generally scarce.

On the 30th, at Nowblehuckum, three fur-
sungs, a large and populous village, where our
party was joined by the Tabrez pilgrims. From
Turshish to this place, the general direction of
the road lay about west ; the country is opeii
and well cultivated, but like the eastern division
of Khorasan, scantily supplied with wood and
running water. At this place, my endeavour to
procure a stock of wheat bread, to support me
during a three or four days journey over a desert^
which lay in the road, was wholly fruitless. The

* This word in the Persic, signifies without $cecl« • f

fobster's travels* 191

number of applicants for a like provision was so
greaty and their arguments, from the late merito-
rious service they had performed, was so much
more efficacious than mine, that I was obliged to
rest satisfied with a few barley cakes.

Being thrown, by a sort of chance, for the two
last days, into the company of a Ghilan seid, who
had been making the pilgrimage of Muschid, we
agreed, after a short preliminary, to place in a
common stock our provisions and good offices.
^Man you know, of all created beings, is the least
fitted, and the least desirous. to live alone. It is
true, that if not sunk by vice, or fascinated by
dissipation, he will occasionally fly from the fa-
tigues of business, the rapid hurry of crowds, and
seeking the shade of retirement, solace and exer-
cise his intellectual faculties. But when he has
breathed out his day of contemplation, he is often
seen returning from the world heiled from, with
a fond solicitude. It is not for mc to expatiate
Oft the pleasures and uses of society, the subject
has for ages fallen under the most extensive and
erudite discussion ;' nor can the pen of a journal-
ist give it additional lustre. I will now only ob-
serve, that after a tedious fatiguing journey, it
Vas with a high relish I sat down to a homely
jpoeal with the seid, whose remarks and singular
opinions on the subject of religion, never failed
to give amusement and information.

192 foxster's travels^

t

On the 31st, at Durroona, seven fursungs, a
small village, situate near the western boundary
' of the territory of AbeduHah ; the road led, in a
western direction, through a barren country. In
crossing a steep rivulet, during this day's journey,
my horse precipitated me, with the hadji's bags of
dye, into the middle of it, where we were dis-
covered lying by this now enraged Mahometan*
He smote his beard until his anger found utter-
ance, when he poured on me a torrent of abuse ;
and charging his ill-fortune to my scandalous
omission of the stated prayers of a Mussulman,,
he declared that I should indemnify the loss of
his pafnt to the last farthilig.

On the 1st of January, 1784, having travelled
eight fursungs through a desert, which was inter-
spersed with low hills, and a thin scattering wood,
we halted on an eminence, wh^re the snow which
covered it supplied our water. My horse became
so much enfeebled, that he was unable io carry
me with the other part bf his load ; aiid I should
have been left on the ground, had not some of
the passengers, who were apprized of the extra-
ordinary sum which I had paid for hire, warmly
expostulated with the hadji on the injustice of his
conduct. Somewhat abashed at the remonstrance,
and fearful, perhaps, of a more general attack on
the many weak sides of his character, the hadji
procured a horse from a person who was pro*

FOR«tER*S t RATE Li. IQS

cebding two stages on our road, aiid whoy for a
small gain, consented to disinqunt and incni' aifi
excessive fatigue.

The domestic associate of Hadji Mahomed
having seen his patron treat me with negiect,
and often with rudeness, thought that* be might
with impunity indulge a like spirit; but seeing no
reajson to shew him the respect which I observed
to the badji, I was provoked this evening to give
him a smart chastisement, and in the English
manner ; a species of attack as novel to him as it
was eMcacious, and I't^hieh surprized the pilgrims^
^bo bestowed on md a general applause. In this
occurrence you will perceive the essetitial advan-
tages of my Mahometan character: for, in my
real one, no Affront, howel^er insolent or oppro-
brious, could have warranted any active resent-
nieiit ; the only resource Would have been t silent
patiehce ; it is, indeed, often necessary to assuage
the offender's wrath, to avert a further outrage.
The penalty that would probably be inflicted
on a Christian hardy Enough to lift his*, hand,
in this part of Persia, against a Mahometan,
would be a heavy fine, or severe corporal punish-
ment.

The Armenians, who visit iilost of the quarters
*f western Asia, aire seldom seen oh this road,
dreading equally the inimical disposition and in-
veterate prejudices of the inhabitants to all those
Vol* II. o

I
I '

194 FOKSTEH'S TI(ATEL9.

of a difTereDt faith, and the incursions of the
Turlcoman Tartars. » •

On the 2dy at Towrone, five fursungs, a smaU
fortified village, situate i A the districts df Ismaei
Khan, an independant chief, who also claims the
desert, extending from Deronne to this place;
nor is it probable that the property will. ever lie
disputed. ^ Many travellers, it is said, have pe-
rished in this track, from the intense heats, aod a
scarcity of water, which, in the course of the first
stage, is procured but in one spot, by digging
small wells.

\^£ learned that a party of fifty Turkonaan
horse had yesterday passed under, the walls of
Towrone, in the way to their own country. These
fierce free-booiers, who wage a common )var on
the Persians, enslavQ as well as plunder those
who fall into their hands. To prevent an escape^
the captives are sent into the interior parts of the
country, where they are employed in tending the
numerous droves of cattle and horses with which
Tartary abounds. They are also occasionally
sold to the Kalmucks, the most rude and savajsp
of all the Tartar race.* A slavery with these is

* One of the names of a native of Tartary, in the language
of his country, is Tatter and Tattaur. Having often indulged
a curiosity in searching for the etymology of Asiatic names^
which, though not tending to the developement of any im-
portant facts, may reflect subordinate lights, I have been
induced to insert them in this place.

Spoken of with horror, and accounted worje than
death; The Turkomans of this day are a tribe of
no important note; and their military operations
are directed chiefly to the attack of karavans and
defenceless villages. They are no longer that
greet' and powerful people which produced a
Zlnjis and a Timur, the conquerors of Asia^
whose posterity were seen in this country, seated
jon the' most splendid throne of the world. It is
now receired as a general position of history^
that those immense bodies of soldiers which spread

• The term Femng, or Ferriiighee, a name commonly applied
at this day among most of the nations of Asia, except the
Chinese, seems to be derived from Frank, an appellation by
which the Crasade Christiairs "were indiscriminately described
•by the inhabitants of Asia. Minor.

Sarace^, one of the names formerly given to the people of
Arabia, may, on a ground fair enough, be deduced from
Sahara, which, in the Arabic^ signifies a desert, and may, with
^qual propriety, be given to the inhabitant of a barren region,
|is the term Highlander, among us, to the resident of a moun«
tainous country ; and I am the jmore induced to adopt the
probable truths of this derivation, as it was pointed out to me
by the most accurate scholar (the present Archbishop of
York) of «ur country.

The Mahometan subjects of the Ottoman empire are known
,in Europe by the common name of Turks, which immediately
accords withpneof the grand designations used by the Tartars
-'who wrested that region from the Arabian khaliphat ; and -a
cause of a similar nature has probably induced many of the
Hindbo traders to apply the &ame denominatioiK|^ tb^ M^^
metans of Indiat

O flt

iOG for»teVs travel**.

over and ultimately subdued the dominioa of
Home, under the names of Goths and Vandals^
were the Tartars of Bochara^ Kheiva, and the
shores of the Caspian, The present chief of the
Turkoman tribe resides at Bochara, where he
keeps a moderate court, iand exercises a very
limited power. The Tartars of the mOre eastera
regions, the modern, conquerors of China, who
may be ranged under the common designation of
Kalmucks and Monguls, are divided into various
roving herds, and would seem to be no longer a
cause of dread to the southern nations of Asia.

Preparing this morning to proceed, I could
neither find the hdVse I had ridden yesterday, por
its master, who, it appeared had proceeded alone^
an hour before the departure of the party. The
road being covered with a deep snow, it was with
great fatigue and exertion I could overtake the,
deserter, who frankly said, that he was apprehen*
sive of not being paid by the hadji, but, that if I
would answer for the payment of the hire, I niight
immediately mount his steed. The adjustment
being speedily made, I rode on to Towrone ; from
whence I sent back this same person, on whom
money had irresistible force, to bring the hadji'^
tired horse, which, I learned from some of the
passengers, was scarcely able to crawl. Fearful
of being altogether abandoned by Hadji Maho-
met, I found it necessary to speak to him in un«

torster's travels. 107

reserved language, which was strongly supported
by a Persian merchant, whose notice I had ac-
quired, a^d, after much opposiition^ became suc-
cessftil.

On the 3d, the kafilah halted in a desert, eight
fjursungs, at a small stream, the only water seen in
the course of this day's jotirdey; the Ghilaa seid
atid I had filled our bottle for mutual use, and
^he bread, cheese, and onions, which supplied our
evening meal, ^ving me a violent thirst, I made
frequent applications to our water stock. The*
seid, seeing that I had taken, more than a just
portion, required that the re^ue should he re-
served for his cereHionial ablutions.

While the seid retired, to pray, I went in
search -of fuel, and returning first to our quarter,
I hastily drank off the remaining water, and
again betook myself to wood-cutting, that I
might not be discovered near the empty vessel
by my associate, who had naturally an irascible
temper. When I supposed he had returned from
his prayer, I brought in a large ioad of wood,
which I threw on the ground with an air of great
fatigue, and of having don^ a meritorious service*

Aye," says he, ^* while I, like a true believer,

have been performing my duty to God, and you
*\ toiling to procure us firing for this cold night,
^ some hardened kaufir, who I wish may never
^ drink again in this wprld, has plundered th#

4C

198

FOBSTBR S TRAVELS*

" pittance of water which was set apart for my*
•* ablutions." He made strict search among our
neighbours for the perpetrator of this robb^ftpy, as
he termed it ; but receiving no satisfactory infor-
mation^ he deliberately delivered hiih or them to
the charge of every devil in the infernal catalogue,
aiid went grumbling to sleep.

On the 4th, at Khanahoody, eight fursungs, a
fortified and populous village, the residence of
Ismael Khan, who possesses a small independent
territory in this quarter. The road frona Tow-
rone led in a western direction, through a desert
track, interspersec^ with low and bare hills.

About three miles to the eastward of Khana-
hoody, a chain of mountains, of the medium al-
titude, extends in a north and south direction,
whose western face is considerably higher than
that to the eastward. This branch of hiils^ which
seem to have a long scope, has effected a grand
change in the course of the running waters. The
streams on the western side have a south-west
current, and flow, I imagine, into the Ciispian
sea, or into the head of the Gulf of Persia, while
those on th6 eastern side are probably carried to
the more southern shores of the Gulf.

FaoM the summit of the Khanahoody hills, is
seen, to the west and north-west, a wide extended
plain, thickly covered with villages and arable
lands; nor does a rising ground in thb direction

forsteb'js travels. 10$

iiucnrupt the utmost scope of the eye. Here I
must note, that this quarter of Persia has now
assumed its most unfavourable appearance; it
being the depth of winter, when little vegetation
is seen on the groundi and not a leaf on the trees.
This day died an old man of our party, who had
been long ailing ; and what was rather singular,
his deatii happened while he was on horseback.

On* the ith, at Bearjumund, three fursungs, a
populous village in the districts of Ismael Khan.
Halted on the 6th, on account of the sickness of
our kafilah director. Two of the pilgrims, who
were carpenters, made a litte/for him, which was
furnished with poles like a sedan, and carried by
two miiles, one of which was yoked before^ and
the oth^r behind the. seat.

On the 7th9 at Nasirabad, nine fursungs, a
email fortress in ruins, situate on an eminence.
We passed at about midway tlwbugh two unin-
habited villages near each other, Kow and Kauff,
noted places of rendezvous of the Turkoman ban-
ditti, and standing on. one of the grand roads from
Persia into Taitary. Qa approaching Nasirabad,
I observed numerous bones of a larg? size strewed
on the ground, and which I learned were the re-
mains ' of some of the elephants of Nadir Shah,
who had ordered them: to be sent into the southern
provinces, where the yrarmth of climate* is better

(00 fokster's travels.

adapted to the health of those aDimals : but many
of them died on the journey.

Persia, since its empire has been rent into

pieces, has suffered severe devastations, and has

been grievously depopulated The various petty

chiefs, who hold themselves but the rulers of a

tday, are often incited to oppress the inhabitants,

and impose heavy ta^^es on the merchant; yet

Ihese exactions might receive some alleviation,

did the governors exert any abtive efforts in de<r

fending their districts from the depredations of

the Ta.rtar$, whp, even in parties of a hundred,

are scouring the country from Muscbid to the

Caspian sea ; and in the course pf this last year>

la. body of them, less than a thousan^^ had pane*

trated to the environs of Ispahan. Such. acts of

unrestrdned violence, marked vi^ith every; species

of barbarity, \jrill point out some of the evils

whiqh have at this day overwhelmed Persia^ which

jmust remain supk in this inglorious obscurity,

until some future hero shall destroy the present

pigmy race, and raising the structure of a new

empire, shall collect i^ strength, and impart tp i(

vigorous actjon.

Al l the towns, villages, and even the smallest
Hanilets in the northern division of Persia, fhougl^
l^ut at the distance of half a mile from each other,
are surrounded with walls, which seem to have

4*

forster's travels. 201

been erected more as a shelter against domestic
robbery and private feuds, than the assault of an
enemy. In considering the perpetual alarms, so-
licitude, and machinations, which must necessarily
agitate the inhabitants of this region, we are at
a loss, whether to consider them more as objects
of reproach for tb^ depravity of their manners, or
of pity, at viewing the state of national debase-
ment, to whicli they have been precipitated by the
declension of their empire.

On the Sth, at Shahroot, also called Bustan,
four fursungs, a small but populous town* From
Nowblebu^kum, the road, lay about west to Tow-
rone, whence it had, I apprebertd, a west by north
direction to Sbabroot.* The horse which! had
hired from the badji to carry me to Mazanderan,
having died this day, I was detained on the road
to take care of my little chattels, whicli must
have been lost, had not some of my kafilah ac-
quaintances each conveyed a portion, though their
horses were much jaded.

Passing over a fertile well watered plain,
which surrouads, to a wide space, the towa of
Shahroot, I came late in the evening* to the kara-
vansera, where I found the Ghilan seid in posses*
^{Qii qim apartment, which he had taken for our

* The Tabrcg pjlgrims left Shahroot, about Rve miles to
^he right or westward, atijd proceeded towards their awn
(Toantry by the way of Simi^a and Casbin.

QOZ FOBtTBR S TBAV£LS.

joint use. Tlie coW >ias here eKir«inelr> intense,
and had. reached tlie* point which the Peraiaas,
with a peculiarforce of expression^ term theZerb
Zimmistan, the stroke of., U'inter. Tlie snow fell
thickly about us, and the piercing north wind
made every creature 'shrink from its' blast; nor
were ti>ere many cordials at hand to qtitAify theie
rigours. ■: -. j '■ ^ . , . . .

'FirtLXG' is scarcer here than hv any < part of
Khorasan, it is of a bad" quality for fuel, and
much of it is of a green wood. Our lodging*
had to aperture but the dbor, which the seid, to
screen hinaself from^ the coldy kept shut; nor could
my most earnest iftireaty obtain any opening for
the discharge of the smoke. The '"only material
differences indeed existing between u&, arose from
this, and anc^er despotic arrangement of the
seid,i whicb'used to cause some warm debates.

It was my business, being tlie more active
raemher, to purchase and bring in fuel, and be*
fore day light, to procure watei* and a light to
warm the seid, und enable him to perform the
ablution preparatory to prayer, ao omission of
which he would have dreaded as the precursor
of some dire calamity. The seid- cortsen led to
kindle the fire, an office which I eould never |>er-
form without suffering acute pain in my eyes
from, tlie stnoke. Thus were our labours, on
principles fair enough, mutually divided.; ..but

forster's travels; fi03

vfhew we came to enjoy the fruits of it, this de-
scendant of his prophet, wrapped in a large cloak
made of sheep skins, would t^ke so unaccommo-
dating a post at, or rather over our small fire,
which was in a manner embraced bv the extend*
-ed skirts of his garment, that 1 received no
warmth ; and I should not have known . that a
fire was in the room, but for a profusion of
smoke. I never remeniber to have suffered so
much inconveniency from the cold ; ilbr could
all my wardrobe, heaped at once on my body,
keep me from shivering*. My anger would often
break out to an extreme height jat the seid's 'total
^ s^zure of the fire-place, and excited very impas-
sioned language: but which he never failed to
allay, by setting forth, that he was old and in-
firm, that he had foregone all his domestic com-
forts, which were many, to visit, in the depth of
winter, a distant shrhic, and that in consideration
of a deed so meritorious, and also of his holy
descent, it was my duty td assist and indulge his
w^ants.

My disposition towards him, and a knowledge
of most of the facts set forth, made his arguments
unanswerable ; and in return for the surrender
of the hearth, I was invited to Gliilan, where he
promised to give me a wife out of his family, and
suitable provision for my maintenance. Such
was the ordinary result of our bickerings,, and. it

dD4 FOSSTBK'S' TBAVBL0*

always tended to make the connection more cor*
dial. In my little disputes on the road, the seid
gave me vigorous support, and when any particu-
lar enquiry was made about my person, which it
somelimes produced, be would immediately assert
that I belonged to him. I have been received as
his son, by those who only knew us en passant ;
nor did our appearance discredit the belief, for
we Were naturally of a fair complexion, of the
same stature, with greyish eyes.

At Shahroot we were frequently visited by a
Hazanderan shoemaker,'*^the most efferverscent
zealot that ever counted bis beads or entered a
mosque. Having thrown aside his tools and
committed the shop to the m'anagement of his
wife, be had laid out the greatest portion of bis
property on a horse, and a large koran, and made
the grand ' tour of all thQ celebrated pilgrimages
in Persia. But he grievously lamented that the
narrow state of his fortunes would not permit a
visitation at the holy tomb of his prophet, which
only could make his death easy, and his assurance
of Heaven well founded. Exclusive of th^ or-
dained prayers, he practised many of a subsidiary
quality, which might be termed tl^e half notes of
supplication, and these were incessantly whiped

♦ The Persian shoemaker is not, as in India, of the lowest
ranks of the people, bnt classes among the most reputable
tradesmen of bis country.

porster's travels: , 205

out with a deep nasal tone, and sometimes when
his spirit was violently agitated, he would dis-
charge them with a bellow, as if he meanl to
batter down the gates of Paradise by storrti.

This shoemaker was a little man, extremely
irascible, and though immerse^ in devotion, he
did not shew the smallest remission in the ma*
nagement of his temporal concerns. In an alter-
cation with the seid, about the adjustment of a
very small account, not more than three half-
pence, a furious contest arose which terminated
wholly in favour of the •shoemaker, his language,
which run with an obstreperous fluency, stunned
and greatly terrified my companion, who hear-
ing himself in a breath called Christian, Jew,
and Infidel, fled from the combat with precipi-
tancy. This said shoemaker, by an ill-timed
intrusion, had discovered me taking some money
out of my purse ; and immediately retiring, de-
clared to all the people of the karavansera, that
the kashmiry, my travelling name at that time,
was possessed of a large treasure in gold and
diamonds, which he himself had seen.

Such a discovery in a country governed even by
the most salutary laws, might have endangered
my property and person, but in this quarter of the
world, where a man's throat is often cut for the
fee simple of his cloak, it placed me in eminent
peril. But the chain of favourable events, little

206 yojlste-r's travels.

sirengthened by my own merits, vvliich had pro-
pitiously conducted mc from the banks of the
Ganges, xhrough many an inhospitable, tmck^t^till
continued to lead mc on safely, . v •

, Having no important jnatter to. lay before
you, I must extend my egotisms, anfd . inf^m. you
that Hadji Mahomet, having now ardved id the
territory of the M^^pderan cbiefi.ljy whom he
he was favoured, threw off all resecv^e; be plainJy
told me, that, instead of looking to him for a fu,^'
ture conveyance, 1 should think myself fortunate
in not being charged with the price of bis horse,
and the damage done to his waixs. Seeing hiai
equally empowered as disposed to do me an inr
jury, I cheerfully cancelled my engagQmeots with
him, on the proviso of obtaining his protectioo
during the journey to Mazanderan.

Shah ROOT, with its independent districts, in-
eluding Nasirabad, pertains properly, I believe, to
the Kho] asan division, though it now . holds of
Asterabad,* which with Mazanderan and Hazaan-
Tirreeb is governed by Aga Mahomed Khan, one
of the most important chiefs now remaining in
Persia. The town of Sbahroo lis small and feur-
rounded in some parts with a slight earthen wall.
The houses, from a want of wood, are built of un**

•r
4
N • .

* Shahroot lies about one hundred miles to the eastward of.
the town of Asterabad.

FORSTERS TRAVELS., SO?

burnt bricks, : and covered with a flat arch of the
same ai£^teriaU.

Many people are seen in this vjcipity, \vbose
noses, fingers, and toes, have been destroyed by
the frost, which is said to be severer at Shahrbot
than any part , of Persia. The principal traffic of
this ^iatiict arises from the export of cotton, un-
wrougbt. and ia thread, to Mazand^ran ; and the
returns from thence are made in Russian bar-iron
and steel, • a little broad-cloth, chiefly of Dutch
manufacture, copper and cutlery. Sugar, from its
hig^ price, being rarely used by the lower-class of
Persians, they have adapted to its purposes a sy*
rup called Sheerah, made of the inspissated juice
of grapes ; but it seemed, to be of an irritating
and inflammable quality ; and most of them mix
with their food the expressed juice of the sour
pomegranate, which makes a high flavoured . and
salubrious acid.

On* the I7th of January, I joined a cotton kafi-
lab, and proceeded to Dhey * Mollah, a small,
walled village, four fursungs. The horse which I
had hired at Shahroot was strong and well paced,
and promised to be a very valuable acquisition,
as a great part of the Mazanderan road lies over
a mountainous country, covered with forests, and
intersected by rapid streams,,

* Dbey in the Persic, signifies a village.

• \

2oa

yORSTER S TRAVELS.

At Dhch Mollah, the seid and I were enter-
tained with cordial hospitality; a benefit wholly
ascribed to the inherent and contingent virtues of
my companion^ who from descent, as well as hijf
late arduous pilgrimage, had a two-fold claim oit
the benevolence of bis countrymen. I should be
deficient indeed, in ordinary gratitude, did I not
feel the kind offices of this iBeid, who smoothed
the many inconveniencies which often crossed my
way, and procured for me accommodations not
attainable by common travellers. The fruits of
this village, some of which were yet firesh, arc in
great estimation, particularly the pomegranate,
which is not infejrior to that of Hadjiabad. This
quarter of Persia produces a variety of vegetables,
as cabbages, carrots, peas, and turnips ; the latter
of an excellent kind, and composes, in thie season,
a principal portion of the food of the inhabi-
tants.

On the 18th, at Tauck, a small fort, five and
•a half fursungs. This day an intense frost, which
had congealed all the standing water, kept me
shivering with cold during the first part of the
journey. About eight miles to the south-east of
Tauck, stands, on a spacious plain, the town of
Dumgam, %vhose lofty minarets are seen at &
great distance. This plain has become famous, in
the latter annals of Persia, for a victory obtained
by Nadir Shah, before the period of hb sove-

forsteb's travels. 909

reignty over the Afghan AshrufF, who then hel(i
possession of Ispahan. The battle, which was
severe h^it decisive, twelve>of thirty thousand
Afghans being, it is sard, either killed or taken,
advanced Nadir high in the estimation of Shah
ThaniaSi who was present in the action. As a
distinguished mark of his favour, 'and one of the
most honourable which the Persian princes used
to confer on a subject, he permitted Nadir to be
. denominated the royal slave, by the title of Tha*
jpas Kuli. *

It would afford me a sensible pleasure, were I
enabled to point out to you any monuments of
the^former grandeur and magnificence of the Per-
sian empire, which has been seen to run a long
course of glory, and to often combat with success
the legions of Rome ; yet where are now the Ro-
man eagles, that were wont to stun the world with
the cry of victory ? Where are now the steeled
bands of Persia, who insulted the cor^e of a Ro-
man general and exhibited a captive Cassar, as a
gazing stock to barbarous nations ? They havQ -
been smote by the destructive hand of time, which
points with derision at their puny race, and at the
instability of human powder. Jt is in the south of
Persia, where the relics of its ancient grandeur

* This event, which is mentioned in Frazer's account of Na«
dirShah, happened in the year 1729.

Vol. II. p

;-^

1110

Mustek's travels,

are to be sought, but even there, the mis-shapen
ruins of Babylon and Persepolis faintly mark
the pristine grandeur and costly taste of its
princes.

The upper provinces, though affording the
grand supply of brave and hardy soldiers, were
rarely visited by the luxurious monarchs of Per-
sia, who, dreading the bleak air and barren aspect
of the north, established their residence in milder
climates, whither they carried the improvenaents
of knowledge, and the refinements of art. Among
the institutions best fitted to give permanency to
the Persian empire, were it invested with indivi-
dual sovereignty, policy would urge the removal
of its capital to Khorasan, famous for the salu-
brity of its air, and the military ability of its
inhabitants. Its situation is also well adapted for
checking the incursions of the Tartar and Afghan
nations; and it possesses a city,* held by the
Persians in enthusiastic reverence.

Ispahan and Sliiraz, seated in the centre of a
country enjoying a soft serenity of air, and de-
plete with the various incitements to luxury, must
soon enervate their inhabitants, and promote the
influence of corruption. The Persians say, that
Kareem Khan, one of the late chiefs of the
southern provinces, was often urged by his officers

* Muschid,

FOnSTEtt S t«AV£LS.

211

to carry his arms into Khorasan, a conquest
ivhich would necessarily have given him the su-
preme dominion of Persia; but, though brave
and enterprizing, he had too long indulged in the
pleasures of Shiraz, and used to palliate his reluc-
tance to the proposed expedition, by observing
that, after the long and dangerous siege of a
small fort^ nothing would be found in it but a few
bags of chopped straw for his horse. Yet he
must have been aware that Khorasan would have
reinforced his army with those soldiers who em-
powered Nadir td'expel the Turks and Afghans
from Persia, and overthrow the empire of India.
The northern regions were long the nursery of a
hardy and predatory militia, who, from their
bleak plains and mountains, were wont to pour
their force upon the nations of the south, but
who, in their turn^ felt the force of fiercer and
more barbarous tribes, until continued emigra-
tions wasted the stock, and withheld the power
of foreign conquest

On the 19th, at Killautau, five and a half
fursungSj an open village situate on the declivity
of a hill. This day*s journey led over a gradual
ascent, interspersed with low wood, and scattered
spaces of arable land. This being the last station
on the road where bread is to be procured on the
east side of the Mazanderan limits, I procured a
necessary supply.

p 3

4
.#

212 FO&STE^-S TRAVBL».

On the 20ih, at Killausir, five and a half fur-
songs^ a range of ruined buildings^ on an emi-
nence, a mile's distance to the northward of the
small village of Hirroos. The proprietor of my
horse, a carrier, went out of the road frcmi thia
place to visit his family residence, and wished
much to carry me with him ; the deviation from
our track being but short, I had consented ta the
proposal, and was about turning inta the path
which led to his village, when Hadji Mahomet
arrived and prevented me.

As this was among the very few marks of
goodness which I experienced from the hadji, U>
iiotice it is but simple justice to his eharacter, of
which, perhaps, you are already impressed with
an ill opinion. Takmg me aside, he enjoined me,
in a manner which evinced an honest eoncemr
not, on any pretence, to proceed to the carrier's
village ; that the story of the shoemaker had cif*
€ulated a general belief of my great wealth, and
that the carriers had been beard in coiieer^
schemes lo rob, and even destroy me; that if
such was their d^ign, there were few actions^ he
observed, however atrocious, which these men
would not perpetrate when plunder was the ob*
^ect ; and that the situation of the village, which
was detached, and inhabited only by thdr fami'-
lies, would equally facilitate the purpose, as pre-
clude a discovery.

forster's travels. S15

This representation determined me against
leaving the party ; but having before consented
to accompany the carrier, to whom the cause of
the refusal could not be assigned, I imposed the
task upon the hadji^ who immediately making it
his own. business, told the carrier, in a stem
tone, that, as I was under his charge, he would
not permit me to be separated from him. 'Though
the carrier continued to urge his purpose by a'
long and strenuous argument, he was overruled
by the hadji, who, by some degree of compulsion,
consigned liiy horse to the charge of another
person. As we rode on, the hadji congratulated
my near escape from a combination which must
have been fatal to my person, or deprived me of
my property, for that many robberies were com-
mitted in these parts, and usually accompanied
by murder.

This night I lodged in the remains of a bath,
which seemed to have pertained to some place of
greater note, than the appearance of the adjacent
ruins indicated. The Ghilan seid had not joined
me in the latter part of the journey, according to
a usage observed by us for adjusting the concerns
of our evening meal, but more prudently went to
Hirroos, where he was well received. Being now
habituated to the seid's company, which had
become equally amusing and convenient, for even
our little disputes had a risible tendency, I sen*

214 forster's TRAy^u*

sibly felt its loss. Though our acquaintance was
of such short duration, I already began to esteem
this man as a trusty friend ; sp natural and im-
mediate is the propensity to cleave to what gives
us solace, and relieves our anxiety; nor is any
object more completely yestpd m\h thi? property,
than a pleasant companion.

CoRDiiVL connections, and the interchange of
good offices, nq where make a quicker progress
than jn the course of a journey. Travellers,
aware of the approach of a period which is tq
cause a general, probably a final separation, occu-
py, to the best advantage, the limited extient of
their associations ; and as few selfish views havp
time to spring up, these contingent compacts
usually abound in good humour and good faith.
In India they have in common circulation, as a
sentence expressive of the pleasures arising from
cursoi'y societies, and parties casually formed,
*^ Enjoy this meeting as a gift snatphed from fate i
for the hour of departure stands on your head.'*
Being now about to enter a province different, in
its aspect and production, from that of Khorasan,
I will here draw the }ihe of division, which may
be done with the more propriety at Killausir, as
it will also mark the eastern limit of 'Hazaar Ji-
rieeb,* a small district dependant on Mazanderan.

* Hazaar, in the Persic, signifies a thousand, and Jirccb, ^^
n^casurcmcnt of land.

foRster's tbavels. 2X5

Prom Shahroot, the road has nearly a westera
direction, through a country generally open,
Low hills are also seen at wide intervals. The
soil is a mixture of sand and earth, and well cul-
tivated as far as the vicinity of Killantau, where
the vallies become more contracted, and leave
but small spaces for agriculture. The sides of the
hills jare chiejfly appropriated to the pastures of
sheep, vi'hich are numerous and of an excellent
kind.

On the 2 1st, at Challoo, four fursungs, a small
open village, on the eastern side of the base of a
steep hill, and close on the brink of a rapid
stream, which was dashed with a bold a^id beau<-
tiful effect on the rocks that lay thickly scattered
in its bed. We had now entered a country overr
spread with i^iountains and forests, in which were
many oak treqs, bqt their dwarfish appearance
shewed that they wanted % kinder spil 9,nd cVu
mate. At Challoo, the seid largely reaped the
fruits of his pilgrin^age ^od his sacred descent^
He and consequently his associate, fqr he never
failed to divide with mie the good things that fell
to his lot, were lodged i^ a mosque, and hospir
tably treated by the inhq.bitp,nts, who supplied
us, in the first instance^ with great store of fue^
which enabled us to hold out against a heavy
s^orm of snow and a piercipg nor^wind; e^mi

Sl6 FORSTEB's TBAVELf.

without which, indeed, our spacious and airy
apartment must have been untenable.

It was with pleasure I again saw a.n open vil^
lage ; it exhibited a rustic simplicity and a peace-
ful confidence, which I thipk could not have ex^
isted within a rampart. The inhabitants also,
if their kindness to us has not biassed me too
much in their favour, seemed to be more civilized
and humane than the people of Khorasan. The
houses here are built with flat roofs, supported
with large beams, which the adjacent forests plen-
tifully supply. A continuance of the storm, de-
tained us on the 22d, at Challoo, where we
found no abatement of the hospitality of the in-
habitants, who furnished every thing that could
render our situation commodious.

On the 23d, in the morning, our party moved
and penetrated through a mountainous country,
intersected with rivulets, and closely covered
with large trees, which being stripped of their
leaves, I could not ascertain the different species,
DOr could the carriers, whose only knowledge
seems to consist in driving horses. Halted, at
the distance of five fursungs from Challoo, under
some trees, about one hundred yards frona
the side of the road, where we kept a large
fire burning throughout the night ; not for de-
terring the attack of wild beasts, which are not

1 ' .53 v.». ' ...J.

FORSTER*S IRAVELS. 2l7

numerous in these woods, but to qualify the in-
tense coldness of the air.

On the 24th, proceeded five fursungs through
the forest. In the evening, vi'hiie I was riding
alone, the party, which had proceeded a short
way before me, turned quickly into the wood,
and came to their station-ground. It was in
vnin that I endeavoured to trace any marks of
men or horses ; for the ground to a great extent
was strewed with leaves. RIy horse, on having
for some time lost sight of the party, became rest-
less, and I thought much terrified. It neighed^
incessantly and though a willing, active animal^
would not move in any direction but with reluc-
tance. My situation grew alarming ; it was grow-"
ing dark, and I found myself bewildered in an
immense forest, with scal^cely the hope of ob-
taining relief during that night.

In search for a spot to fasten the horse, an(J
lay myself down, good fortune threw in my way
two men, who were driving a loaded bullock and
an ass. Without noticing my embarrassment,
I'^hich they might have made an ill use of, or even
making any enquiries, I learned that a part of
the kafilah had proceeded on the road which they
were pursuing, and going with them about two
miles, I found Hadji Mahomet, with some other
passengers, refreshing themselves on a small plain,
skirted by a stream of water. The proprietor

/tl8 forster's travels.

of the horse, who had followed, expressed much
displeasure at my quitting him, which he ascribed
to the council of the hadji, whom he spoke of
with a sneer, and laughed at the sort of protec-
tion which I had chosen.

On this night was seen by most of the passen-
gers, a star, with a bright illuminated tail, which
I apprehend, from its form and quick motion,
must have been a comet. Hadji Mahomet now
became profuse in his offers of service ; he pro-
mised me every accommodation at Mazaoderan^
as a supply of clothes, for I was ill apparelled, a
proper place of lodging, and to dispatch me with
safety to the quarter of my destination. This
man, though one of the most acute and knowing
of bis sect, did not seem to entertain any idea of
my being a Christian ; yet he suspected the truth
of my narrative, or rather, he did not believe n
wovd of it ; but imagined that I was a trader in
jewels, which were concealed about my person.

Desirous of knowing the state of the Russian
navigation on the Caspian sea, I had sought the
information w4th too much earnestness, which
created a suspicion at Shahroot, that I was a
Russian, escaped from the captivity of the Tar-
tars, and returning to my own country. But
this conjecture ceased, when it was known that J
had come from the eastern side of Persia.

O^ the 24th, proceeded five ftjrsungs through
the frost. The greatest part of this day's journey^

forster's travels. 219

lyiftg over steep hills of a moist clayey soil, be-^
came of difficult access to our cattle. The car-
riers of this road, usually employ mares for the
conveyance of merchandize, being more tractable
than stallions, and requiring less attendance.
They are indeed as quiet as any domestic animal,
and though feeding at large during the night,
ihey never strayed from the vicinity of the
station.

On returning this evening, from a small excur-
sion into the forest, I found that my Ghilan as-
sociate had left his quarter, and gone over, to the
person who has been before mentioned, as the
travelling assistant of Hadji Mahomet. He was
also a native of Ghilan, well known to the seid,
and being stout and hale, had previously to their
departure, agreed to be the seid's assistant dur-^
ing the pilgrimage ; it was a concern of moment
to this old infirm man, in the various accidents
to which a long and harrassing journey was lia-
ble, to have so capable a companion ; and the
Ghilanee, to coiToborate the sincerity of his offer,
had formally pledged hiujself on the koran. There
was every reason to credit the seid's relation of
this compact, for he was an inviolable observer
of the truth, and I have myself often witnessed
the ill treatment which he experienced from his
countryman. But being now near home, where
a rjetaliation might be feared, he bad assumed so

220 FOBSTEU'S TRAVELS.

genuinely the semblance of contrition, that in the
tpace of my short absence, the seid's full forgive-
ness was obtained, and the promise of future
union. On seeing me, theseid seemed embarrassed^
but said nothing, and while I was preparing a
slender supper, my attention was roused by a
loud noise of altercation from the Ghilan quar-
ter, where I saw a furious debate waging between
the members of the new alliance. The old pil*
grim soon returned to me, entreating, with many
confessions of his credulous folly, to occopy bis.
former station.

.On the 25th, completed, in a journey of five
fursungs, the passage of the forest, and halted on
its western edge. This day we frequently crossed
the Mazanderan river, which, after winding in va«>
rious directions, takes a north-west course through
the flat quarter of the province, and falls into the
Caspian sea at Muschid Sir. This stream is ra*
pid among the hills, but fordable for laden horses*
And on reaching the plains, it flows with an easy
current. At a toll-house Mathin the skirt of the
forest, the merchants paid a small duty, and I
was assessed a few pence, on th^ score of being
a stranger.

In my way through this extensive forest, I did .
not see the vestige of a habitation, nor any cul-^
ture, except some very narrow strips of land^
thinly interspersed at the base of the hilU. 3ut

F0R8T£R'8 TBATEL8. 221

the vallies now opened and exhibited a pleasing
picture of plenty and rural quiet. The villages
ail open and neatly built ; the verdant hills and
dales, encircled by streamy *of delicious water^
presented a scene that gave the mind ineffable
delight. The air, though in winter, was iifiild,
an4 had the temperature of an English climate
in the month of April. This change of weather^
effected within so short a space of time, arises
from the low situation of the province, its near
vicinity to the Caspian sea, and the shelter of
the adjacent mountains. The sheep in numerous
flocks were feeding on all sides ; but they are of
a less aze than those of Khorasan, and have not
the Urge ponderous tail which is peculiar to this
animal, in the countries lying between the Indus
and the eastern confines of Mazanderan ; neither
is their flesh so fat or well tasted.

Ok the S6th, at Sari, three fursungs, a forti-
fied town, and the residence of Aga Mahomed
Khan, the chief of Mazanderan, Asterabad, and
some districts situate in Khorasan. The country
in thb day's journey was flat and woody, inter*
spersed with small streams, and bounded to the
north-east and south-west by alow range of hills.
The kafllah having halted about two miles to the
southward of Sari, the s^id and I walked into
the town, which we found had grievously suffered
by the effects of a late fire. We were stopped tit

rrfur -•» »-^

£22 • forsteh's travels;

the gate-guard, which was under the chgfrge of
ao Abyssinian slave,* who after making the com-
mon enquiries permitted us to pass. The mar-
ket of Sari is plentifully supph'ed with provisions,
among which is seen the grey mullet, a fish
abounding in all the rivers which fall into the
southern shore of the Caspian sea.

Sari is. rather a small town, but crowded With
inhabitants, many of whom are merchants of ere-
dit, who resort thither for the purpose of supply-
ing the chief and his officers with articles of foreign
produce. A society of Armenians is established
in the vicinity of the town, where they exercise a
various traffic, and manufacture a spirit distilled
from grapes, of which Aga Mahomed drinks freely,
though his habit does not seem to operate to the
prejudice of the people. This chief has the re-
putation of being attentive to business, and of
possessing an extensive capacity, which is indeed

• A native of this quarter of Africa, is denominated Hub-
slii, among the Mahometans, and is held in'high estimation ia
Asia, for a supposed characteristic fidelity to the service in
which he is employed, Abyssinians are frequently seen about
the persons of princes, where they hold stations of confidence.
And at the Porte, as eunuchs, they are entrusted with the
whole interior management of the imperial haram ; the females
of this tribe, though deficient in those external charms, which
are so eagerly sought after by the Mahometans, and which
indeed difiiise pleasure among all the sons of men, are also
greatly prized for many domestic virtues, and especially for
their chastity.

jorster's travels. £23

obvious to common notice, throughout all parts
of his government. The walls of the town are
kept in good condition, and the ditch though nar-
row, is deep, and sufficiently tenable against any
force now existing in this country.

A PALACE has been lately built at Sari, of
commodious neat structure, though of limited
size, and has a more compact appearance than
any building which I have seen in Persia. The
front is occupied by a small esplanade, on which
are mounted three pieces of cannon, with car ;
riages of good \¥brkmanship, fixed on three wheels.
Aga Mahomed, a Persian, of the Kajar tribe,*
is about fifty years of age, and the son of Mum-
taz Kban,f who in the distractions which involved
Persia, subsequent to the death of Nadir Shah,
stood forth among the various competitors for
the throne, and was, for a short period, declared
Jiead of the empire, by a large party of the peo-
ple. But he was ultimately compelled to yield
to the superior force of Kareem Khan, by whom

* A word in the provincial language of Mazanderan, sig.
nifying a rebel or a deserter, and the nartie of an extensive
tribe, chiefly residing in Mazanderan and Asterabad. Like
the Kajahpoote of India, the Kajars are usually devoted ta
the profession of arnas^ and they compose the largest por-
tion of the soldiery of these provinces. They are mention-
ed by Mr. Hanway in his relation of his transactions at
Asterabad.

t He was called Fultah Ali Khan.

^224 forstek's travels.

he was put to death. The family of Mumtaz
Khan, falling also into the hands of the conque-
ror, he deprived Aga Mahomed, the eldest son of
virility. I am not enabled to give you any satis-
factory information of the events which promoted
the enlargement of this chief, and in quick gra-
dation invested him with the possession of an
extensive territory.

In a country where the evolutions and caprice
of fortune, are exhibited in infinite multiplicity^
and her wheel whirls with a velocity that con*
founds observation, where the slave of the morn-^
ing is often seen at noon exalted on the ruins of
his master, it becomes a perplexed disgusting task,
to trace the steps which lead to honors and power;
nor does it adequately reward the enquiry of rea-
son. Such transitions may be summarily ascribed
to the general depravity of a people, who unre-
strained by laws, or even the habits of justice,
give a loose to every impulse, which promises
the gratification of ambition, avarice, or revenge*

Aga Mahomed Jias become, since the^ death
of Kareem Khan, the most powerful chief of
Persia. He has many brothers, one of whom
Jaffier Kooly, governs Balfrosh, the principal
town of Mazanderan ; but his conduct is narrowly
watched, and his authority so limited, that be
cannot issue a passport to a Russian trading ves*
sel without the assent of Aga Mahomed. The

I'OltStER's TRAVBtli* ^23

forces, of this chief, on occasions of seryfce, may
amount to fifteen thousand cavalry, which were
embodied in the course of the last year, when he
overrun Ghilan, and plundered Reshd, the re-
sidence of Hydeat Khan, the ruler of the
province, who, with his family and treasure
sought refuge in the Russian factory of Enzillee*
until the M azanderan troops had evacuated the
country.

It appears that Aga Mahomed is preparing
another attack, which is thought mW speedily be^
effected, unless he is deterred by the power of
the Russians, who having long derived ejctensive
advantages from the commerce of Ghilan, seem
disposed to espouse its - cause« Aga Mahomed
is at this time the only Persian chief bordering
on the Caspian sea, whom the empire of Russia
has yet made tributary, or rendered subservient
to its policy.

About a year ago a small Russian squadroa
arriving at Ashroff, a capacious bay on the Aster-
abad shore, the commanding officer directed a
lai^ building to be constructed near the shore,
for the purpose of accommodating bis crew, and
probably to lay the basis of some future plan*
When the building was nearly finished, Aga Ma-
homed,^ to whom this procedure had given alarm,

. ♦ Situate near the border of the Caspian sea, about lU
miles to the northward of Reshd.

Vol. II, ci

226

!rORST£R S TRAVSLg.

invited thq commodore, an inexperienced young
map, with Jiis o^iicersy to a^q ^nt^rtainmf nt giveo
at AsteP0.b^di on the celebration of some Maho*
metan f(pstiv^ly Many of the Russians, with tbeir
offiqerp, went to the Persian feast, where they
were suddenly seized and put into confineqient.
Aga ]V|^lK)med then affected to express much re*
sentnoent at the conduct of the Russians, in haii*
ving erected, without permission, so large and
solid a building in this country. It was in vain
that the Russian expatiated on the treachery
of the act, and so glaring a violation of hospita*-
lity. He was resolutely answered, that uhless
his men were directed to demolish the building,
the party should be detained in prisoti; and pei>
haps meet with a worse fate. . •

The commodore dreading the effects of this
threat, dispatched the necessary orders to the,
squadron ; and when the work was performed^
he and bis companions were released. . The of-
ficer was soon after dismissed from the command
of the Caspian squadron, and banished froni the
court. The empress severely censured his breach
of military conduct, which on account of youth,
and a regard for his family, she observed had
not been noticed with the deserved punislunent.
Aga Mahomed lately received an address from. the
Russian government, threatening him, it is said,
with a severe vengeance for the insult offered to

their flag, unless h^ made a speedy atonement.
But ii does not ^eem that this chief is disposed to
ehevr any respect to the requisition ; and if credit
is to be given to a general rumour^ another de-
scent on Ohilan may be «oon expected/ the pro^
bability of which is corroborated by a prohibition
of all intercourse mi^ the inhabiti^nts of that
province*

Os the 27th, we left Sari, and proceeding five '
fursungs^ through a country interspersed with
pltin and forest, halted on the skirt of a wood
near the high road. At half the distance of this
day's journey, croiBsed a fordable stream^ which
runs to the left or Aorth-west, and M\% into the
MatAdderan river. The carriers were stopped
at thd passage, acid ordered to convey on their
hpr^es ^ quantity of stones, and {^ace them in
certain slwampy parts of the great road, leading
from Sari to Balfrosh; which, it is said, was
first constructed by Shah Abbas^ and appears to
bavebeen cut through a forest.

At three miles to the southward of our last
night'si I halting place, we passed through the
small vtilage of Alhabad, which has a daily mar-
ket well supplied with bread, cheese, and such
)>rovision» as are adapted to the refreshment of
travellers^ for the use of whom it seems to have
been wholly established.

OiK the spih of January^ our party arrived at

Q 2

£28 • FORSTBRaXRAVELSr .

Balfrosh, four and a half fursungs. The road
this day was the worst. I ever had travelled on,
and required, in the winter season, continued
labour to make it passable. Though deep
ditches are extended on each side, and drains ciit
across, to carry off the extraordinary moisture of
ihe soil, we proceeded with much difficulty and ha-
zard. The carriers, at certain stations^ were
required to deliver their respective portions of
stones^ and the defaulters, among whon^ I was
classed, were detained by the officers of goverii*
ment ; here I might have incurred a long delay,
had not the Ghilan seid interposed his good
offices for me as a pilgrim and his friei>d. It was
then soon seen in what a favourable light y^e were
beheld. Our hands were even kissed in reverence.
The proprietor of my Ijiorse having no religious
virtues to plead, and his quantity of stones being
found very insufficient, he was not permitted to
pa33.; and while he, with many others, were en-
deavouring to qualify the demand, the seid and J
agreed to proceed to Balfrosh, that we might be
sheltered against the weather, which this day had
set in with drifts of small rain and a severe
cold.

In high anticipation of the pleasures in store
for us at the capital, we were overtaken by the
caf rier, who foaming with rage, at this my second
desertion^ as be termed it, accused me of an at*

forster's travels. 2^9

tenipt to steal his mare. Nor was his passipn al-
kiyed, until I promised him a large dish of pillaw,
to be ready at his arrival in Balfrosh.

At the distance of two miles on the south side
of the town^ is seen a small island in the river,
where Shah Abbas erected a palace, whose roof,
with the bridge of communication, has lately been
applied by the governor of Balfrosh to some do-
mestic purposes. After paying double the stipu*
lated hire, and the fine in pillaw, I discharged the
carrier, who, like all those of his profession within
my knowledge, was an arrant knave. But kna-
▼ery constitutes a grand branch of his profession,
and does not heavily affect the purse of the tra-
veller, who, if he wishes to journey on with com^
fort, and have his name puffed, should heartily
feed his carrier ; and, as the common nature of
man requires indulgence, occasionally wink at his
roguery. Not to govern too much has been a
maxim of long standing in the policy of nations,
nor is it less necessary to the welfare and quiet of
domestic eeconomy.

At Balfrosh I was informed that three Russian
vessels were lying in the road of Muschid Sir, and
would sail in a few days to Baku.* It now be
hoved me to act warily, aiid to wind up with dis-
cretion an adventure which had hitherto been sue-

c

' A port on the western coast of tire Caspian sea.

230 forster's travels.

ccssful, and had at this place reached a crisis,
which must either produce a happy, or a dan-
gerous issue. To this period I had assumed, with
good fortune^ the Mahometan character, without
which the journey, I think, could not have been
performed, especially from Turshish to the Cas-
pian sea. I had been admitted, M'ithout reseire,
into the society of Mahometans, and bad lived at
the same board with the most zealous and scrupu-
lous, some of whom, being now on the spot,
would, on a discovery of my person, inveterstely
resent the deceit. It was first expedjientto qukt
the mind of the s^id, who, lodging in the same
apartment, must necessarily become acquainted
with my departure. Telling him that I was going
to ^2ake a pilgrimage at a tomb^'''' much resorted
to by the Persians, in the vi(^nity of Muscbid Sir^
and leaving a few things which would be useful, I
bade him adieu with an air of unconcern, yet
breathing a silent, fervent wish,, that this old noan,
whom I was never to see again, might experience
every good in the dispensation of Providence.

Musing on the scenes which of late had b^en
shifted with a rapid diversity, and on the singular,
yet interesting Connections which I had formed
in the cour^e of my journey, I travelled on ta

• The place of interment of a son of Mouza Kazim, one of
the twelve Imaums of the Persians.

FPRSTPH'S TRAVELS. 25\

Mu^jhid Sir ; a scattered village, situate on the
eastern bank of the Mazanderan rFver, about ten
miles distant from Balfrosb, and two from the
Caspian sea. On seeing the. Rufesiaa quarter, I
sent back a horse which I had hired, and pre-
sented jmyself to a person who tvas pointed out to
me as the master of a Russian vessel ; but .he did
not understand any* language that I Spoke. To
obviate this embarrassment, an interpreter was
called in, and being informed that he was a Rus-
sian, I related my story without reserve ; that I
was an English gentlemani who, from motives of
curiosity and pleasure, had tra veiled, from Ben-
gal through the northern parts of India and Per-
sia^ %nd that 1 now intended to proceed by the
way of Russia to England.

TfiE linguist expressed surprize ^t the relation^
wh)fch he seemed to doubt; but a repetition, ac-
companied \vith that confidence which only arises
from truth, noticing also that I was Enabled to
reward any good office, gave my relation credit, at
least with theRussian, The master agreed to convey
me to Baku, whither his vessel was consigned ; and
observed, tlmt the commanding Officer of a frigate
lying at that port, would give the necessary di-
rections far my future procedure. The matter
being thus happily arranged, I was invited to
partake -of a mess of fish-broth, served up in ia,
large wooden bowl; of which the master, six or

/

234 ' FORSTER's tRAVELS^

for this and other erroneous opinions. \i^bich I had
formed of it. ^

In the first instance, I saw that tl)e Russians
were evidently of lower stature than most of the
northern people of Europe, and getierally bad the
thick form of a Tartar, with his broad visage*
Those who are not in the service of govermnent^
encourage the growth of tlie beard ; they wear a
long outer vest, which is fastened round the
middle with a girdle ; their shirt, like that of the
Mahometans, hangs over the breeches, which are
short, and they usually wear boots. Their hair
fa)I$ loosely down the neck ; and they cover the
head, when abroad, with a cap or bonnet, which
is taken off in the house, and in the interchange
of courtesy. They possess an address and suavityr
df manners, even in ordinary life, which would
not disgrace men of & much higher class, among
nations deemed the most polite. The entrance
of a Russian into a room at first surprized me j
for, instead of noticing any person in it, be no-
covere his head, and with an air of humble rever-
ence, offers up a prayer to the picture of the
Virgin and an infant Jesus, which is exhibited in
the most conspicuous part of every apartment.
Having performed this ceremony, he salutes the
company, and at departure he observes the like
lisage. I am by no means empowered to ascer-
tain the virtual opinions w^hich the Russians ea-

forster's travels. 2S5

tertain of their national religion, or to what
extent they may operate in a moral tendency ;
but I can with confidence say, that their exterior
observance of religious duties is accompanied
with a reverential attention^ and is void of that
fantastic mummery which has thrown a ridicule
on many, parts of the Romish worship.

I HAD not long been a member of the Russian
society, wlien Hadji Mahomed appeared at Mus*
chid Sir. On perceiving him I was impressed
with an involuntary drqad; and had my creed
admitted the tenet, I should have seen in Hadji
Mahomed my evil genius. Retiring to the house,
I waited with anxiety for the issue of his opera« \
tions, which I knew would be hostile to my wel-
fare; when, after some little time the master of
the vessel coming in, informed me that the hadji
had made many enquiries about my situatioif^
and spoke of me in terms of regard. The Rus-
sian expressed much surprize at hearing me la-
ment this intelligence, which, he said, ought to give
me pleasure, as Hadji Mahomed was a person of
eminent note at Mazanderan, and might assist
me in procuring a passport, without which, I now
learned, no person could leave the province. A
storm now began to threaten me from all quar-
ters^ the person who had been my first inter-
preter, was not; as he said, a native of Russia,
but ala Arnf>enian ; and, with a treachery not un-

^6 forster's travels.

comm(ni to his tribe, had circulated among the;
Persians of Muschid Sir the information he bad
been entrusted with, embellished with many fabri-
cations of his own, as, that I possessed much
wealth in money and jewels, and that I was a ^py.
This story obtained a general credit with ihe
Mahometans, especially with Hadji Mahomed^
who' began to contrive plans of advantage from
my troubles. The master of the vessel seeing the
popular cry strong against me, became fearful of
giving me shelter; for it is necessary to mention^
that the Russian tracers, chiefly a low class of
people, are exposed in all parts of the government
of Aga Mahomed to severe oppressions and in-
sult; but which an advantageous traffic has
induced them to overlook ; and Aga Mahomed^
knowing the cause of- their forbearance, preserves
no decency in his conduct to them.

The Russian 'now acquainted me, with mani*
fest symptoms of fear, that, were he to receive me,
without a passport, his vessel and cargo would be
confiscated. The principal freighter of the bark^
Abbas Ali, a native of Baku, had shewn me, from
my first arrival at Muschid Sir, much kindness,
and seemed desirous of relieving my embarrass-
ment. He expressed a sorrow at the serious
difficulty in which I was involved, rendered, he
said, the more perplexing by the ill designs of the
Saasier of the vessel, who w^as a person of a bad

■/

FORSTER^S TRAVELS. €37

character; "but be of good comfort, "continued he,
" for I will be your friend, and do not on any
pretence entrust your property to the Russian,"
This advice came in convenient season, and testi-
fied that Abbas All knew thb man ; for on the
following (day he addressed me in a long harangue,
setting forth that the Persians had received intei-
ligencepf my possessing a valuable amount in spe*
cie and jewels, that my own knowledge of these
people would naturally point out the insecure
state of both my person and €#ect8, and that an
earnest regard to my welfare had induced him
to request that my property might be deposited
in bis charge, until the departure of the vessel.
But the counsel of Abbas Ali, not a little strength-
ened by the present proposal, determined me to
be the keeper of my own cash.

Either the resentment of a supposed want
of confidence in him, or the disappointment of
some sinister purpose, gave the Russian a sensible
cbacrrin : and from that time he continued to
treat me with rudeness and neglect That I
might retire from the view of th^ people at Mus-
chid Sir, who were now in the habit of accumu-
lating unfavourable conjectures of nie, I desired
to go on board the vessel, and remain there until
4some method might bq adopted to leave the
country with, permission; and the master having
consented, though with much reluctance, to my

2

tSB tOHSl*Elt*S' TRAVELS.

embarkation, I departed secretly and without ttciy
impediment. From the Russian quaiTer the dis-
tance is about a mile and a half to the mouth of
the river, where the force of the sea has raised -a
long and shallow bar, navigable only by boats ^nd
email light vessels; but when the wind blovrd
strong from the north, the passage is wholly
impracticable.

The bark lay a league from the shore, in sijc
or seven fathoms water, and was about the bur^
then of one hundred tons, with two jnasts ; t^
largest, fixed in the centfe, is of one piece, and
rigged with a standing mainsail, extended at the
upper end by a long gaff, and at the foot with a
sheet, a topsail ; and an occasional top-gailant»- -
sail ; this last is furled before it is hoisted, with
slight ropes, which are broken when the sail is
aloft by a pressure on the lower ropes ; the fore
part of the vessel is furnished with a slanting fore*-
sail, a bowsprit and jib; and on the poop star^ds
a small mast, which carries a mizen-sail. , Thfe
clumsy form and construction of the barks which
navigate the Caspian sea, shew that little im-
provement has been made on them since th*
time of Peter the Great, who first introduced the
art of ship-building into Russia. Having straight
sides, with a large and' ponderous kitchen on the
deck ; these ^^vessels sail slowly, and only with
a free wind. As they lie much in open roadd.

forster's travels. 239

the Caspian being scantily supplied with har-
bours, they are furnished with stout anchors and
cables, apparently of a larger size than is neces-
i^ry ; though there is often found full occasion
for such aids to withstand the furious gales of
wind and high breaking waves, which prevail in
this sea«

I NOW learned that the Russian, whom I have
hitherto termed the master, was not a mariner,
but an agent ^ who is appointed to manage the
commercial business of the vessel and disburse
the sailing charges. The crew consisted of a
ma8ter,f termed boatsman, his mate, six mari-
ners, and a cook ; .who from their pay and small
trading privilege provide their own diet. The
Russian seamen, among whom I was known by
the name of Gregoree, from its near resemblance
to George, treated me with a cordial hospitality ;
nor must you imagine that I was demeaned by an
unreserved association with these men, whose ha-s
bits and mode -of life admitted of no discrimina-
tion of rank. I sut down at their board without
scruple ; i^ideed with thankfulness ; and they
never omitted to present me with the highest

* Called in the Russian language, Precausee, a dispenser of
orders.

t Many of the nautical phrases alid implements in use,
among the Russians have been adopted from the Dutch, fronoi
whom Peter the Great learned the art of ship-building.

\

S40 forster's TRAVfitt^.

stooly the best spoon, and with wheaten- breads
while they themselves eat that of rye.

SoH£ tea and sugar,* purchased from an Ar-
menian, enabled me to breakfast alone in the
cabin, which I occupied with the boatsman, who
iftiewed a ready attention to all my little wants,
and became as agreeable a companion, as the
want of language would adniit. Our commoa
fare on board the vessel, consisted of a large spe-
cies of fisb^ in Russia^ called the I)eluka,t^which
was either prepared in a soup, or minced with a
|arg6 quantity of salt and pepper, and boiled in a
cover of paste ; this dish I often thought an En-r
glish sailor would have called, in his descriptive
language, a shark dumplin. Nor was it inferior
in solidity to any fabrication of the dumplin kind ;
after the, fish came thick pancakes, fried in a de-
luge of butter* I had laid in a stock of mullet,
a more wholesome food than the beluka ; but
seeing that from a fear of being chargeable to me,
my messmates refused to partakQ of it, I laid

* This sugar, the produce of the West Indies, and manufac*
tured in England, was imported at Petersburgh, whence it came
into Persia, by the track of Astracan.

t It is taken with a hook near the mouths of most of the
rivers which fall into the Caspian ; its lengthis generally from
six to eight feet, someliines it is seen of eighteen feet, and has
the head and form of a shark. This fish is not eaten by the
Mahometans, who hold it uncleaH, from having no scales.

FORSTER^S TRAVELS. 241

^side this with every other distinction, and except
the tea, fared as they did. -

It DOW appeared that obstinate difficulties were
thrown in the way by the custom-master at Mus-
chid Sir, who filled his office with equal vigilance
and rapacity. Seeing me, from the unfavourable
predicament in which I stood, a profitable game,
he directed that I should be immediately sent on
shore, there to be detained, until the chief's plea-
sure should be known. As this man only wanted
some of my . money, and would have been disap*
pointed by my formal departure from the country,
I made him, through the medium of Abbas Ali,
the Baku merchant, a substantial offer, but delay-
ed the payment till the time of sailkig, that no
secondary demand might be preferred.

Two days previously to. our departure, Ali
Abbas came on board of the vessel, and repre-
sented that the custom-master was inexorable to
every solicitation, urging that Aga Mahomed was,
at this juncture, averse from permitting any per-
son to leave tlie province; and, that were he
accessary to my escape, his head, on the dis-
covery, would pay the forfeit. Knowing that an
interdiction had been laid on all inland passen-
gers, and that the dispatch of the Russian had
been withheld for the space of twenty days, to
accomplish some purpose of government, I was
aware that a certain risk was incurred by the

Vol, II. R

«

\

242' i^orster's traVe£s.

Persian, whom I proposed ^to indemnify by ft
proper compensation ; but I also observed, that
if he persisted in the refusal of all private nego-
ciation, I would myself proceed to Sari, and re-
late my story to the chief; and he well knew
that no benefit would accrue to him from the
decision of his master. This argument was com-
pletely efficient, and when reinforced by some of
n)y Hindostan gold, permission was given me to
pursue whatever way I liked, except that of
Sari.

Bbfore I leave this quarter of Persia, I will
lay before you a brief account of its geography,
with cursory observations on its forjner and pre-
sent commerce, and its relative policy with Russia.
Mazanderan, which occupies the centre of the
southern shore of the Caspian sea, has Asterabad
ftvi the 6ast, Ghilan on the west, and to the
''northward it is bounded by the mountainous
tract of forest which has been already noticed.
Though the fort of Sari, from its strength^ and
centrical situation, has become the residence of
the chief, Balfrosh is cpnsidered the capital of
the province.

This town occupies an irregular oblong space,
of about a mile and a half in circumference,
and standing on a low moist ground, its streets
are, at this season of the year, choaked with mud.
The houses are coarsely built of brick or clay.

FORSTER^S TBAV£LS« 343

with aflat roof, and being generally small, have a
mean appearance. The karavanseras, of which
there are four, have little of that neatness and
conveniency which is seen in those of upper
Persia, and are of a much less size; but the
market-place, which, in the manner of Asiatic
towns, forms the principal street, denotes an
active traffic.

The rice of Mazanderan is of an excellent
/quality, and composes the usual food of the
people, who find it difficult, in their marshy lands,
to cultivate a sufficient quantity of wheat for
common consumption, and that produced is of a
coarse sort. The bread used by the higher Classes
of inhabitants is made of the flour of Shirwan,
a considerable amount of which is annually im-
ported at Muschid Sir. This deficiency is, in
some degree, compensated to Mazanderan by the
growth of sugar, which, though of an inferior
kind, is adequate to most of its common uses.
When the general demand of this article in Persia
is considered, and that it is rarely produced on
this side of the Indus, it might be naturally sup-
posed that Mazanderan would derive extensive
benefits from such a possession ; especially through
its navigable vicinity to the southern territories of
Russia, where a large quantity is consumed, at an
advanced price; yet from an ignorance, in the

R 2

\

\

244 FORSTER^S TRAtEL9.

methods of preparing and refining it^ this v0fu<
able product yields but a limited utility.

An inhabitant of Astracan, I am informe^.
came into this province for the purpose of esta^
blishing a manufactory of sugar, but failing in
his project, no future experiment has been made^
Were the Russians skilled in the process^ they
would be enabled, by the importatioi^^ of raw
sugars, to fix in their country an important and
lucrative comniierce. Mazanderan also produ^e^
a small quantity of silk, which is fabricated by H
society of Jews ; but its principal trade, ie maiiH
tained by a frequent intercourse with the port of
Baku, which receives while and coloured calicoes,
cotton, and rice, and returns^bar iron of Russia^
saffrQn, flour, and remmants of broad cloth, pro*
cured from Astracan. The commerce of this
quarter, which now does not employ more thaa
four or*five barks, might be largely extended, did
a greater harmony exist between Aga Mahomed
and the Russians, especially were the manufacture
of sugar increased. -

The Persians have long attempted to navigate
th€ Caspian sea, though with little success. Their
vessels are open, rudely constructed, and ill ma-
naged, seldom leaving the coast but in the season
of fair weather. Many of them are fitted out at
Farabad, an ordinary town, situate at the moutli
of a river, thirty miles to the eastward of Mus-

FOltSTER's TItAVELS.

24.5

chid Sir, and how supported by a small trade in
rice, salt, fish, and pottery ware. This town, in
the European topography of Mazanderan, bears
the appearance of note, and gives its name to a
province, whatever might have been the former
importance of Farabad, and it 4s noticed with
respect in Persian history, little testimony of it
now exists,

Th e province of Asterabad, lying on the east
fiide of the southern Caspian shore, affords little
produce for a foreign trade; and it enjoys a
refreshing temperate air, and is beautifully inter-
spersed with hill and dale, and abundantly sup-
plied with streams of salubrious water.

Shah Abbas, the most powerful prince of the
SuiFuee race, pleased with th^ climate of this
province, erected a palace near the shore of the
b&y of AshroiF,* whither he used often to retire,
to avoid the heats of Ispah^n.f Almost the only
marine export of this prorrince consists of dried
mullets, which are cured intire by smoke; and are
held in such estimation by the Russians, that two
cargoes of them are annually imported at Astra-'

can.

\

Ghilan, the richest of the provinces border-

/

. * This-is the only harbour on the southern skle of the Cas-
pian sea.-

-f- This prince removed the capital of Persia from Qa^bio to
Jspahaiiit

s .

€46 forster's travels.

ingonthe Caspian sea, extends in a western pa^
rallel from Mazanderan ; it is bounded on the
west by the territories of Talish and Astp.ra ; and
on the south by a range of lofty mountains, which
divide it from the dependencies of Cashan and
Casbin.

Hydeat Khan, the Ghilan chief, has rcr
linquished Reshd, his former residence, and for
the security of his wealth and family against the
incursions from Mazanderao, has retired to thp
vicinity of Enzillee, where the Russians possess a
fprtified factory, garrisoned by a company qf
soldiers, and supplied with a few pieces of can-
non.*

Hydeat Khan is supposed to possess a re-
venue of two hundred thousand pounds, a gre^^t
part of which arises from the produce of silk ;
and from this revenue, he had amassed, it is
said, a considerable treasure. Here you must be
cautioned against computing Persian ipouey by
your standard, for in this country, where every
commodity is procured at a cheap ratQ, specie

' * The most accurate account of Ghilan is found in the
travels of the late Jonas Hanway, anamevyidely known in the
annals of humanity, and deeply graven on the most distinguish-
ed monuments of his country. Some useful remarks on Ghilan
are also to be collected from a book, entitled Voyages and Tra-
vels through the Russian empire, Persia, &c. by William
Cook, M. D.

FQRSTBr's TRAVELS. £47

ijoay fairly be rqpkoned at double the value which
ijt bears in Englahd.

HvDEAT Khan is about sixty years pf age,
^nd according to the information of the Ghijan
seid, of whom frequent mention has been made,
is rapacious, tyrannical, and pusillanimous. Con-^
scious of his inability to resist the force of Aga
Mahomed Khan, he had wholly thrown himself
pn tlie protection of the court of Petersburgh,
from which it may be said, that he derives th^
existence of his power, and safety of his person.
Nor will the Russians, w)iile they enjoy such im-
portant benefits from GJiilan, fail to give him
support.

The silks of Ghilan are exported to Astracan,
chiefly through the medium of Ariiiepian mer-
chants, subjects of Russia, who possess the
larger share of the Caspian commerce. It was
long believed that the silk brought into Europe,
from Turkey, was all produced in the Ottoman
empire : but since a niore conversant knowledge
of Persia has been obtained, it appears that the
Turkish njerchants* were used to resort tp the
provinces of Ghilan ^nd Shirwi^n,* whenqe they
transported large quantities of this commodity to
the European factories of the Levant.

* Situate on the west side of the Caspian sea, where there js
abundant growth of silk, but of a coarser kind than that qf
Ohilan, which is esteemed the finest in Persia,

248

FOBSTER « TRAVELS.

The Persian silk trade continuetl to flow in this
channel, until the year 1739, when the Russia'
Company of England, having procured the sanc<!^.
tion of Parliament,* sent their . factors inta
Ghilan to establish a commerce, which should
have for its object the purchase of silk, and the
vent of English manufactures. They received
a cordial encouragement from Reza Kouli, who,
at that period, governed, Persia in the absence of
his father, then engaged in the Indian e:cpedition;
and they remained in Ghilan until the year ;1 748,
when the general tumult and devastation, which
followed the death of Nadir, compelled them to
retire and abandon an extensive aoiount of pro-
perty.

It is seen that previously to the dissolution of
the factory at Ghilan, the court of Petersburgh
began to entertain jealousies of the English esta-
blishment in Persia, and from their own growing
knowledge of commerce and navigation, became
desirous of possessing a trade which naturally
pertained to their country. The government of
Persia had largely contributed to increase this
jealousy, by a distinguished encouragement to

* They were vigorously opposecj in England by the Levant
Company, who awfire of the injury which they would sustain
by the Caspian trade, represdited to Parliament that their
charter, an exclusive oue, would be violently infringed by
such permission being granted to the Russia merchants.

forster's travels, $49

all English adventurers, whom it saw independent
of Russia, its constitutional enemy, and capable
-a]so of enriching the kingdom, b}^ their superior
skill and spirit in trade: but above all, Persia
was desirous of employing the Englisli in the con-
struction of vessels of war ; that it might acquire
fhe dominion of the Caspian sea.

The first cause of the displeasure and alarm
of the court of Petersburgh, at the proceedings
of the English factory in Ghilan, arose froiti the
conduct of the principal agent, John EltonJ* who,
on a disagrQement with his associates, entered
into the service of Nadir Shah, by whom he was
invested with certain territories bordering on the
Caspian sea, and created the commander of a
squadron, with which he himself, with infinite
ability and labour, had furnished the Persian
government.

On the 14th of March, our vessel, filled up to
the hatches, the decks also strewed over with
bales and passengers, got und^r way, but a foul
wind soon setting in, we came to an anchor,
prom the manner in which these vessels are navi-
gated, laden, and altogether managed, I should
be surprized if shipwrecks were not fi<3quent ia
this sea. The cabin was stuffed so full of parcels

^ See Hanway's Travels, for a fclatiou of some part of t\f^
adyeutures of thisditerpnsing person.

950 fOK'STEH's TRAVELS'

and baggage, that those to whom it was allotted^
were obliged" to crawl in, and then they found
only a scanty length and breadth, sleeping or
awake : the passengers I perceived were all petty
traders, who having embarked a certain property
on the vessel, accompanied it in person; for
there is not a sufficient credit or good faith esta-*
Wished i^ Persia, to enable merchants to consign
their effects to factors. The foreign* trader, there-
fore, is necessitated to become a supercargo, aa
occupation which for the first time I saw, in th^
kller of the word, verified, by the adventurers
Sitting immediately upon their wares, whence they
stirred but seldom, and were never long absent:
of these people I numbered not less than seventy,
who were spread over the deck, or packed in the
cabin and boat; it was soon seen that the master
and mariners were equally ignorant of their pro-
fession ; he could scarcely discriminate the points
of the compass or throw the lead ; and the men,
though expert at the use of the taylor's needle,
and the implements of cookery, would, among the
most clumsy of our sailors, have been termed
landsmen. When I beheld this ill-constructed
bark, lumbered with goods and passengers, and
its unskillful crew, I could not but entertain ap-
prehensions of our safety, especially in a sea so
tempestuous as the Caspian.

On the 17th, we got iiiider sail, and assisted

forster's travels.' 251

by a favourable wind, we anchored on the 22d,
about ten leagues to the northward of the port of
Baku ; and, on the 24th, reached the 'entrance of
the harbour, when the wind, which had been blow-
ing strong from the eastward, suddenly changec),
and came from the land with extreme violence ;
but the vicinity of the shore kept the sea down,
and probahly prevented our destruction. Tjie
Russians, trusting to the strength of their anchors
and cables, which were of the most substantial
Mnd, went to sleep ; nor did they once endeavour
to prepare the vessel for the sea, in the event of
its parting from the anchors, or use any means of
assisting the cable which was severely strained •
some of the more animated of them would occa-
sionally open their eyes, and call out on God's
. mercy to shelter them from the fury of the storm.
It abated on the 26th, when we entered the port
pf Baku, and saluted a Russian frigate lying there,
with all the swivels and musquets on board, with-
out regard of order or count. The agent of our
vessel attended the commanding officer, and in
his report mentioned the story of his European
passenger. It is to be noticed that the Turks and
Persians make a difference between a Russian
and a native of Europe, calling the one a Fering-
hee, and other a Rooss. In this distinction is also
included a superior estimation of the Europeans,
tp whom they ascribe a more extensive genius and

iS^ 70R8TER S TftAVttB.

knowledge ; atid what I thought extraot^dinary^
the like nominal difference id entertained by all
the lower class of southern Russians.

On board of the frigate, whither I was suni*-
moned, I related the motives and general fracJ^
of Dfiy journey, and was received with a warmth
of hospitality, to which neither my appearance,
biBing clad in a very Ordinary dress, or my unsup-
ported representation had a claim. I now bc-^
came informed of the general peace in Europe ;
and it was with a deep felt mortification, I learn**
ed, from a foreigner, the entire separation of the
American Colonies and their numerous people*
The frigate was to sail the next day to Enzillee, to
be stationed in that quarter, fo/ the protection of
the province of Ghilan, the chief of which had
ftnnetime before dispatched an envoy to the Rus-
sian camp, in ,Crim Tartary,* to represetit his
dread of Aga Mahomed, and to solicit the aid of
the Russians. The agent had returned, and was
accompanied by a Russian officer, who had tri-*
veiled from the' camp to Baku in twenty days*
Part of the journey lay through the country 6f
the Lesgui Tartars, who are a savage people, and
proverbially hostile to strangers ; but, from a
dread of the Russian troops, now advanced Iq

•V

* Then comra^ded by General Potemkin, who was invested f
with the government of the Grim i^nd the power of controlling
the affairs of Astracap*

FOEBTEIt S T&AVBL9^

i93

their frontier, they had permitted this party to
pass unmolested. The officerjwho spoke the
Turkish language fluently, seemed to be an inge-^
nious active man, and well fitted for a service of
enterprize*

The Ohilan envoy, then proceeding in the fri-
gate, expressed a surprize to see me, whom be
thought a Mahometan, eating at the same board
with the Russian gentlemen ; but when be saw a
barber commencing an operation on my beard^
whieh I took the opportunity of having shaved^
he evinced great amazement and indignation;
nor did he, until repeatedly informed of nay
real character, cease his reprehension of the act »
during the process of which, he threw on me
many a look of contempt ; when the barber began
to out off the mustachios, he several times, in a,
peremptory manner required him to desist, and
seeing them gone, now said he, of whatever
country or sect you may be, your disgrace is com*
pletQ, and you look like a woman.

Thus, after a growth of fifteen months, fell my
bearct, which in that period had increased to a

■v

great magnitude, both in length and breadth^
though, it Imd been s6raewhat shrivelled by the
severity of the late winter ; when you advert ta
ihe genial importance of an Asiatic beard, to
the essential services which mine liad^rendered.
and to our long and intimate association, I trust

SM

I^OBSTEB's TBAVBtS.

that this brief introduction of it to your notice
will not be deerned impertinent. This operation of
cutting it, ought however to have been postponed
till my arrival at Astracan ; for my European fece,
with an Asiatic dress, made me an object of ge-
neral remark and enquiry among the Persians ;
nor did I escape the censure of the Armenians,
who are taught to esteem the beard a badge of
respect, and even sanctity, recommended to their
Qqcample by the patriarchs and primitive Chris-
tians, and when they conform in European coun-
tries to the custom of shaving it, thev are ridiculed
by all the stauncher brethren of their tribe.

On the 27th, I went on board the frigate, then
getting under way, and saw the seamen execute
their work in an active, skilful manner. They
hove up the anchor, and set sail with an expert-
ne^s, which would not have discredited the crew
of an English ship of war. The captain procured
ine^ a passage from a Greek merchant, who had
come to take leave of him, and gave me a pass-
port requiring my admission into the town of
Baku, and that no molestation should be offered
me by the Persian government ; and the second
lieutenant of the frigate, who had been my inter-
preter, and had taken a willing part in adjusting
pay little wants, gave me a letter of introduction
to ap o^cer of the Russian navy, whose nam?

♦ORSTER's. TKAVEtS. £^

was Ivan Andreits.* The Greek carried me to
his apartment in a karavansera, which is exclu-
sively appropriated to the use of Christians and
Sooni Mahometans.

Ivan A^dreits, during tlie last Russian war
with the Turks, commanded a privateer, the pro-
perty of his family, in the Mediterranean, where
having performed som* gallant actions, he was
promoted by the empress to the rank of captcua
in the navy ; and, retiring aftewards to Astracan,
be obtained from government the exclusive pri-
vilege of exporting, for a certain term, iron and
steel into Persia. As we both were a little con-
versarit in the Lingua Franca, a language com-
monly spoken on the coasts of the Mediterranean,
a familiar acquaintance was soon produced; and
the influence which he had acquired at Baku, en-
abled me, now a part of his family, to pass my
time very pleasantly.

The town of Baku, in the province of Shirwan,
is situate on the north side of a bay, and forms
nearly an equilateral triangle with one of the
sides extending in a parallel with the shore. It

*

* Or Andrew Vits, signifying in the Russian language, Johar
the son of Andrew, This mode of designation is held the most
honourable among the ancient titles of Russia, and is exem-
plified, in the present Grand Duke, who is particularly kaowiiy
by the nara^ of Paul Pvtrowitz.

£56

POBStBR^S TRAViL^.

is, I imagine, ^bout a mile in circumfererice'^ anfd
crowded with inhabitants^ most of whom .are en-
gaged in commerce.

The bay is capacious, and sheltered, b^ the
land, against all winds except the sooth, whose
violence is also much broken by the intervention
<^ two small islands. The southern and largest
o£ those islands was, according to information of
the people, united to the continent, which, in
that quarter, presents a low termination ; bnt it
had been insulated by the influx of the sea, whose
waters have evidently encroached on the western
shore of the Caspian in the course of the 'last
forty years.

Baku, at the period of Mr. Han way's tnurels
into Persia, had a double wall on the eastern
fece; but the exterior one is now levelled by the
rise of the sea, and its foundation brought within
water-mark. . The province of Shirwan produces
-a large quantity of silk, of which about four hun-
dred tons arc annually imported at Astracao.
Saffron, of a good quality, is also produced there,
and constitutes a valuable article of trade. A
society of Moultan Hindoos, which has long been
established in Baku, contributes largely fo the
circulation of its coinmerce ; and, with the Arme*
nians, they may be accounted the principal mer->
chants of Shirwan. The Hindoos, of this quarter,
usually enjbark. at Tatta, a large insular tqwn in

forster's travels. 257

the, lower tract of the Indus, whence they proceed
to Bassorah, and there accompany the karavans
which are frequently passing into Persia. Some
also travel inland to the Caspian sea, by the road
of Kandahar and Her^t ; but the number is small,
and they grievously complain of the oppressions
and insults of the Mahometans.
, On the 31st of March, I visited the Atashghab,
or place of fire ; and on making myself known to
the Hindoo mendicants, who resided there, I was
received among these sons of Brimha as a bro-
ther ; an appellation they used on perceiving that
I had acquired some knowledge of their mytho-
logy, and had visited their most sacred places of
worship. This religious retirement, where thf
devotees worship tlieir deity in the semblance of
fire, is a square of about thirty yards, surrounded
with a low wall, and contains many apartments ;
in each of which is a small volcano of sulphu-
reous fire, issuing from the ground through a fur-
nace, or funnel, constructed in the form of an
Hindoo altar.

This fire is appropriated to the uses of wor-
ship, cookery, and fortifying the feeble Hindoos
against the rigour of the winter season. On
closing the funnd^ the flame is inamediately ex-
tinguished, when a hollow sound is beard, by
applying the ear to the aperture, accompanied
with a strong and cold current of air, which is

Vol. II. ' s

260 FOBS'^BBS-TRAyBLSlo'^

flat roofs, are covered on the top with this mate-'
rial^ which is found a substantial defence against
the rain ; and, when formed into small cakes, or
balls, with a mixture of. sand, is commonly U3ed
by^the lower class of people, as a substitute for
the fuel of \y6od, which, in this province, is thinly
produced.

This quarter of Shirwan, in aspect and the Ma-
ture of its soil, resembles the province of KhiWPa-
san ; there is the same want of wood and large
streams, and in the winter the air is equally bleak
and piercing ; with the difference that in Shirwan
it is subject to fogs, which, I apprehend, are
caused by the vicinity of the Caspian sea. The
soil yields abundant crops of good wheat and
barley, the bread of which constitutes the food of
the common people ; the higher ranks only are.
enabled to procure rice, which is chiefly imported
from Mazanderan and Ghilan. The mutton is
fat and well tasted, being of the large tailed sheep,
and is sold at the rate of one penny and three
halfpence per pound. Apples, pears, grapes, and
chesnuts, all of a good kind, are produced in
plenty. And a wiue is manufactured by the Ar-^
meniaus, at the town of Shahmachee,* which in
flavour and substance, is not unlike the red wine
of Bpurdeaux ; were the grapes carefully cu{ti<*

* The former capital of that j^roviace.

F0R8TBR*S TRAVELS, 201

vated, and the process well understood, this wine
would be much esteemed in Europe. The pro-
vince of Sbirwan has Derbent inclusively on the
north ; the Caspian sea on the east ; the territory
of Astara on the south ; and parts of Georgia and
the districts of Gunjah on the west.

Old Shahmachee, the former capital, is situ-
ated about seventy miles inland of Baku, and for
its trade, wealth, and population, was, after Ispa-
han, ranked among the most flourishing cities of
Persia. To punish a rebellion; which thfe inhabi-
tants had raised against the government of Nadir
§hah, this. city was razed and depopulated ; but
that the empire might not be deprived of a mart,
so happily placed for foreign commerce, that
prince formed, about ten miles to the south-west
of the old city, a new Shahmachee.* Fultah All
Khan, the chief of Shirwan, resides generally at
Derbent, but he gratifies a rapacious disposition,
by making frequent circuits through the province, ^
which he severely harrasses. Thie vicinity of ge-
neral Potemkin's army has made him fearful of
its nearer approach ; and he is now endeavouring

*Anextensivetrade of silk formerly was maintained between^
SLahmachee and the Black Sea, through which channel, large
quantities of that commodity were imported into Turkey, and
thence into Europe. This trade, though still existing, is myxcl^
diminished since the Russians, by obtaining the dominion, of
%he Caspian, have made a monopoly of the Persian silkt

SGa ^ fdrster's travbvs.

by^ver; token of respect and acknowledged de-
pendance, to obtain a favourable connection with
the Russian eir^pire.'

Having laid before, you the mpr^^ material
part of my pbservations on Sbirwan, I cannot; re«^
sist the impulse of calling your notice, for a mo*
ment^ to the disposition and temper of a small
but extraordinary portion of its present inhabi*
tants. Human nature takes a portion of its pre*
eminent features from national prejudices, from
education, and from government ; nor must wc
exclude climate from its share of the formation. -
This remark arose from a view of the Atashgliah
at £aku, where a Hindoo is found so deeply tinc-
tured with the enthusiasm of religion^ that though
his perves be constitutionally of a tender (exture,
and his iraa>e relaxed by age,"*^ he will journey
through hostile regions, from the Ganges to the
Volga, to offer up a prayer at the shrine of his
God.

When the ambitious strides of the Russian
empire, on the side of Turkey, by tlie late acquis
sitions of the Crim, are attentively considered,
and its rapid progress into the most valuable pro-

♦ Among the Hindoos at the Atashghah, was ah old man, a
nativtB of Delhi, who had visited all the celebrated temples of
northern and southern India, and whow 1 afterwards saw at
Astracap,

FORSTER S TRAVELS.

263

viiices of Persia, we are compelled to bestow ap-
plause on ti\e policy of a government which has
so dextrously ordered its measures, that these va-
luable additions of power and wealth are daily
accumulated without attracting the notice of
Europe ; nay almost without its knowledge. Wav-
ing any investigation of the political effects which
may spring from the rise or fall, or the encreasing
grandeur of nations, I will here only observe,
that the influence acquired by Russia, in the
north-west quarter of Persia, has been accom-
panied with reciprocal benefits, and that were it
wholly annexed to the Russian dominiop, the body
of people would reap essential advantages ; their
persons and property would derive a security, of
liirhich they have been long deprived, and by a
subjection to the orders of a civilized, active go-
vernment, they wpuld necessarily become useful
subjects and profitable members of society.

The kingdom of Persia, since the period of the
Afghan Invasion,* has presented an unvaried
scene of warfare and distraction ; where every
species of a savage rapine 'has been exercised
with boundless sway ; and, at this day, Persia may
be said to exhibit a vast tomb, piled up with the
victims of ami)ition, avarice, and revenge; it
weredifiicult to say whether more of its people jn

►Which happened about the year 1730,

264 FQRSTEI^'S TRAVELS.

the last sixty years, have fallen in the field, or by
the hajid of th(e executioner and assassin. For
they have had a full occupation, especially in the
latter part of the government of Nadir Shah,
whose revenues were at length drained from the
blood of his subjects.

The cruellies committed by this prince have
been diffusely treated; all classes of men, even
our boys at school, are conversant in the barba-
rous exploits of Khuli Khan ; it njay nqt, how-r
ever, be superfluous to notice souic facts, which
seem to have largely contributed to sully the me-
mory of Nadir, who at one period of ,his life,
maintained no ill founded claims to heroic fame.
At the close of this prince's reign, hisj body and
bis mind indicated equal signs of disorder,
which was supposed to have been caused or aug-
mented by domestic treachery, and the effects of
excessive fatigue.

Conspiracy and rebellion arose all around
him, and he had no sooner quelled the insurrecr
tionsof a province, than his departure was mar]^-
ed by the murder of his officers and successive
revolts. Seeing his autl^ority endlessly trampled
on, and that partial punishment was inefficient
to give it strength, he gave loose tp a perl^aps
con3titutional ferocity, which had been tempered
by his understanding, but which these events in-
flamed to madness^ and oftei^ instigated to the

forster's travelju 2B5

indiscriminate extirpation of a district. But
what seemed most to eitibitter and disturb his
mind, was the perfidy of his family ; the defection
of those from whom he had vainly expected aid
and attachment. His favourite son and apparent
successor^ had been entrusted with the regency
of Persia, during the expedition to Hindostan,
and presuming on the distant occupations of his
father, he had prepared measures, it is alledged,
to ascend the throne.

The increasing malady* of Nadir, sharpened
by public and domestiic calamity, .ultimately ren-r
dered him a monster of cruelty ; and his rage ex-
tending usually to those whose offices required
an attendance on his person, f ^^ ^^^ approached
with a constant dread. Wearied out at length,
by the undeviating course of his tyranny and
cruelties, which like a pestilence had thinned the
land, some of the principal officers of the court,
stiniulated also, it is said, by one of his nephews,
assassinated him in the nionth of April 1747, while
be was encamped in the northern quarter of
Khorasan, not f^r distp.nt from the place of his
birth.

* An extreme costivencss.

t It is said that the officers in waiting, instead of entering
on the ordinary topics of a court, where used to make anxious
and unfeigned enquiries into the state of the shah's body, and
eyer express much joy at an imperial evacuation, which
they imagin64 would secure an existence for the day.

f66 FOltSTER's TRAVELS*

Having held out that side of Nadir's cha-
racter wliich excited only disgust and horror, it
were but simple justice to his memory, to notice
those passages of his life which will place him
in a light where princes ever appear in the nnyst
grateful colours. On the event of his successes
in India, 4>e exempted his Persian dominion from
all taxes, for the space of three years ; and after
discharging the military arreftrs, which amounted
to four millions sterling, he gave the army a gra-
tuity of six months pay, with a like sum to the
civil servants of tlie camp.

After the battle of Karhat, when Nadir had
overthrown the empire of India, and ^possessed
the person of the king, one of the Mogul omrabs
represented to him, that among the Dehli troops
were an hundred thousand horses fit for field ser-
vice, and which his order would immecjiately pro-
duce.. Nadir Shah, in the language of a princ^
observed that be granted to the Mogul army aa
u^nreserved quarter, which should not be in-
fringed ; that the bread of an Asiatic soldier de-
pends -on his horse, which, were he deprived of,
himself and his family would he reduced to beg-
gary ; that it is repugnant to humanity to treat
those with rigour whom fortune has thrown into
our power ; and it was his determined will, that
the Indian soldiers should not be in any degree
insulted or molested.*

* Frazicr's History of Nadir Sbab.

fobster's travels. £67

N'ADiR Shah, in the prosperous periods of
his life, held out an ample protection to tner^o
chants of every sect and nation, and zealously
sought to establish a liberal commerce through-
out Persia, • which he saw possessed of various
valuable commodities. When the mercantile
property of Mr. Hanway was plumlered at
Asterabad, that gentleman preferreTl his com*
plaint in person to the Shah, who directing an
investigation into the account, issued an effectual
order on the govei'nor of the province for a full
restitution of the effects or the amount.

Ik the vigorous attempts which this prince

made to introduce the European art of naviga-

lion and ship-building into his country, he evincei}

a genius rarely found in the mind of an Asiatic

It vnas his intention, by the assistance of John

Elton, to erect fortified stations on the east side

of the Caspian sea, that a stability might be givea

to his conquests in Khieva, and the Tartars

checked in their depredations on the province of

Asterabad. After Elton had, with vast labour,

completed the buiMing of a vessel, in which he

encountered obstinate difficulties, as well from

a jealousy of ^he Persians of his rising favour

with the Shah as disgust at an irksome service ;

he was directed to examine the Tartar shore of

the Caspian, and to make choice of an eligible

situation for a settlement. But the coast, ac-

^ft^ FORSTER^S TRAVELS.

cording to the report of Elton, being found
destitute of good water, the design was relin-
iquished.

Nadir Shah, contrary to the general charac-
ter of the Persians, who are impressed with a
more persecuting spirit than any other Mahome-
tan natioft, gave a common toleration to the wor-
ship of the inhabitants, whether Christians, Hin-
doos, or Jews ; and largely retrenched the power
and wealth of the priests, who, during the latter
period of the Suffuee dynasty, had engrossed the
chief direction of government. That Nadir might
incapacitate their revenge for the death of the
Mollah Basbi,* who had been executed for re-
fusing assent to a plan of this prince for intro-
ducing the Sooni religion into Persia, and, to
accommodate other salutary purposes, he de-
manded an account of the vast revenues which
had been assigned to the church. They informed
him, according to the tenour of Frazier's relation
of this event, that their property was applied to the
uses for which it had been allotted, in salaries for
the priests, in the maintenance of numerous col-
leges and mosques, in which prayers were .inces-
santly offered up for the success of the arms of
the prince, and of the prosperity of the Persian
empire.

• High priest.

'*• -*..

fobster's travels; Q&&

Nadir observed to them, that experience Imd
manifested the inutility of their prayers, since, for
the space of fifty years past, the nation had beea
verging to decay, and ultimately had been redu-
ced, by invasions and rebellion, to a state of ruin;
when God's victorious instruments, pointing to his
army^had come to. its relief, and were now ready
to sacrifice their lives to its defence and glory ;
that the wants of these poor priests, his soldiers,
must be supplied, and he therefore determined
that the greatest portion of the church lands
should be appropriated to their use. The man-
date being immediately carried into execution,
produced a revenue equal to three million of ster-
ling money. The priests, enraged at this assump-
tion, exerted their utmost abilities in stirring Up
the army and the people against the Shah ; but
the former being composed, in a large proportion,
of the Sooni sect, ridiculed their situation ; and
the body of the inhabitants, when they considerect
that the edict^would liberate them from a part of
the general taxation, were n6t dissatisfied.

Nadir Shah having accomplished this pur*
pose, ordered the attendance of the chiefs of the
people, and making a formal declaration of the
measure which had been adopted, told them, if
they wanted priests, they must provide them at
their own charge ; that having himself little occa-
sion for their services, he would not contribute to

£70

yOBSTER S TRAVStSi

their maintenance. Such was Nadir Shah before
calamity had harassed his mind, and disease his
body. The actions of men, however amply gifted
by nature, or improved by knowledge, are strongly
shaped by the surrounding events of human life.
Let the maa whom we have but now viewed with
admiration, towering down the tide df fortune
with a swelling sail, and marking his progress by
conspicuous marks of giory and renowo^ be
thrown on the rough sea of trouble, without a
shelter to cover him from its fury ; or let him be
stretched on the couch of sickness, helpless^ and
racked wiih pain, we shall speedily cease fFom
wonder and applause, and with difficulty credit the
identity of the object.

Having, in detached pieces, and, I fear, with
a wide deviation from order, described the most
important events of the Persian empire, from the
Afghan invasion to the death of Nadir Shah, I
^ould have wished briefly to connect that epocha
with the present period ; but no document ha^
come to my knowledge, spfficiently authentic or
clear, for the illustration of the whole of this
interval.

Previously to the administration of Kareem
Khan, many competitors for the throne of Persia
came forward, and encountered a various tran-
sient fortune,. until all the race of Nadir and the
Sofis were extirpated, except Shah Rocl^ the

2

forstbr's travels. 271

chief of Muscbid, a sketch of whose life haa
been already noted. Kareem Khan,* from a ma-
rauding horseman, became the successful chief*
tain, and proclaiming himself the^ regent of the
empire, during the minority of a descendant
of the Sofi family, whom he pretended to have
discovered, established his residence at Shiraz.
It appears that Saadut Khan, the brother of the
regent, took Bassorahf from the Turks, after a
year's siege ; and, during the Persian government
of that place, Kareem Khan gave distinguished
iiidulgencies to the English residents established
there, whose factory and -property, when the city
feU into his possession, were fully secured to them.
Tlie administration of Kareem Khan was involved
in a series of hostilities ^against the Turks and
Arabs, over whom, except the capture of Basso-
rah, he obtained but trivial advantages.

At the period of the regent's death, which
happened about the year 1778,' Saadut Khan was
stationed, with a small force, at Bassorah, and
solicitous of speedily reaching Shiraz, the theatre
of action, he abandoned Bassorah, which again
acknowledged the power of the Turks. When

* He made no scruple of avowing, that in hi3 youth he
pursued the occupation of a robber, and (hat his foreteeth
bad been demolished by the kick of an ass, which he had
stplen, and was carrying off.

t This event happened in the year 177^.

f74 forster's travels.

Saadut Khan approached Shiraz, he found tbe
gates shut against him by a Zacchi Khan, a
branch of his family, who, seizing on the city,
and the person of Kareem Khan's son, then a
youth, announced himself the ruler of southern
Persia. The young man having evinced a dispo-
sition to favour the interests of his uncle, Zacchi
Khan gave orders that he shoul4 be put to death*
The sentence, by a reverse, in no rare practice at
a Mahometan court, w2ls executed on himself^
and Saadut Khan was admitted into Shiraz, with a
participation of the affairs of government He
soon formed a combination against his nephew^
whom he ultimately deposed, on a charge of de-
bauchery, and a lavish expenditure of the public
treasure. /

During the administration of Kareem Khan,
a body of troops had been sent to quell some
insurrection in a distant part of the country,
under an Ali Morad, who returning successful,
with an army disposed to promote his purposes,
preferred a claim to the government. The issue
of a civil war, prosecuted through a series of
depredation, murder, and treachery, gave Ali
Morad the possession of Shiraz, where he put to
the sword the whole family of Kareem Khan,
with their adherents.* A Persian of Ispahan,

* He was related to the family of- Kareem Khan. It is
laid that, od this event, three huodred persons were ma%-^
lacred.

spcaldng to me of the actions of Ali Morad, and
lextoUihg his military genius, said, that he pos^i*
sessed u scimetar of a large size and superior
ijuality, on the Hade of which were engraved the
tiamtes' of the twelve imaums, the directors of its
edge, aiid the secutity of its victories*

TttE commeift On the Mahometan's story
wouW, ill fact, tell us, tJiat whilst the sword of
Ali Mbiratl is thus patronised by his twelve
saints, there is no service, however entangled by
the ties of ^aith and' holio«rr,. that he may not cut
asunder with impunity, even with applause. Ali.
Morad, who has established the seat of his go-
vernment at Ispahan, took Shiraz io 1778 Pr
1779, at which period a gentleman of my ac-
quaintance resided at Bassorah, and has since
communicated 10 me some tracts of the history
of Kareem Khan, and of those chiefs who ap-
peared in action after his death.

Th is gentleman, whose veracity and discerning
judgment may be confided in, draws a melancho]j
picture of the sotrthern provinces of Persia. He
says, that the intestine feuds and commotions gave
a pretext for the perpetration of every cririiQ
disgraceful to human nature, and produced such
danng acts of Qagitiousness, that the people re-
sembled demons rather than men. It was usual,
he says, for one half of the inhabitants of a vilia^
to keep watch at night, that they might not ba

Vol. II. T

274 FOR8TER*8 TRAVELS.

murdered by the other, which, if not equally
vigilant, became subject to a similar fate. But
enough of this scene of blood, which degraded our
race below the beasts of the field, and permit me,
in my desultory manner, to convey you again to
the banks of the Caspian. It having been already
noticed^ that the dominion of this sea is vested
without competition in the empire of Russia,
which has also obtained a strong influence in
some of the bordering provinces, it may not be
foreign to rational enquiry to examine the stages
by which Russia has arrived at this accession of
power.

In the year 1722, Peter the Great was soli-
licitcd by Thamas Khan, the son of th^e Shah
Husseyn, to assist him in expelling the Afghans
from Persia, who had driven his father from the
throne, and continued to hold possession of an
extensive portion of the kingdom ; and, to stimu-
late Russia to the grant of this aid, the Persian
prince stipulated to cede in perpetuity the pro-
vinces of Ghiian and Shirwaxk Tbjs proposal
being acceded to, Peter, accompanied by the
empress Katherine, embarked at Astracan with a
large force, and proceeding along the west coast
of the Caspian, landed at Agrechan, in the pro-
vince of Mingrelia, about two hundred miles to
the southward of the mouth of the Wolga : from
thence he moved to the relief of Derbent, which

fORStSR's TRAVELS. t £75

hfid been besieged by the Afghans, and stationing
a party of three hundred men in the castle^
advanced a day's march into Persia, where b©
was met by the deputies of Baku and Shahmachee,
who sought his protection against the Afghans,
then making strenuous exertions to reduce these
places.

Peter was preparing to undertake the service,
when a Turkish envoy arrived in the camp, and
represented, that, his master, having annexed
Shabmachee to the Turkish dominion, was much
displeased at the appearance of a Russian power,
in that quarter, and that, unless the emperor
withdrew his forces, he wad directed to declare
war against Russia.

Peter having lately felt the superior strength
of the Turks in the unfortunate campaign of
Pruth, and being then in a foreign country,
destitute of the resources necessary for com-
mencing hostilities against so ^werful an enemy,
he consented to a peaceable return to his own
dominions. The Turkish envoy accompanied the
army to the northern limits of Persia, where he
remained until it had embarked for Astracan.
The parly which had been lodged in the fort of
Derbent did not join the army in its retreat, but^
at the solicitation of the inhabitants, continued in
that station until the Russians, jtt a future period,
appeared on the Caspian, while those of Baku,

SytS't |aRSTBB'« TRAVELS.!

deprived of th^ hop^ of succour, received a bd(%f
of Afghan trodp^ into the tawn, and subcnitted tot
the government of Isp^h^u;

The Rusisians had constructed a small fort t>nr
the rivipr Millu KentI, in the territory of the Les^
ghi Tartars, and garfisoiled it with Ave hundred
men, who, after the departure of the grand army,
were attacked b^y a larger A%han farce cbud wholly
destroyed. Peter, it is said^ lest in this expeifi'^
tion, a third part of :his troops, by sifekness, fe-
tiguCj and onsets of the Lesgnis ; a loss tbendoi^
mortify ii^, as it was then attended by a^i»ubvef^«
sion of the sanguine project he had forraed> of
extending hi3 conquest into the interior provinTOs--
of Persia. ^

■ It appears that this event was followed, in a
short time, by an ultimate and formal conventioiv
between the courts of Constantitjople and Peters-*
burgh, which stipulated^ that Shahmachee, the
territories of Armenia,. Georgia, and Melitaner,'

should be held 4)en^anent appendages of tbe^

>•' ■"'

Porte.; and thai Peter should be left at liberty to*
prosecute his designs on the provinces of Persia
bordering on the Caspian sea.
, In the latter end of the year 1722, the Persiaa
chief of Ghjlan deputed an agent to Astraean,
with powers to deliver up Reshd, the xiapital of
the province, to a Russian garrison, i^ould it be
iupiejfiiaj^ly dispatched to ^he TelJef of the city^

FOl^STf it's tRAVBiiS. ' g7J

Xhen invested by the Afghnns. The emperor as-
senting to the measure, dispatched by sea a
thousiand mQn to Ghila» ; b«t, pn their arrival,
they were, refused admittance by the inhabitants^
>vho, alarmed al the delay of the aid, and thrpafn
ened with severe vengeance if they formed any
connection with the Russian government, had
^ entered into a negociation with the Afghan qfficei?
for the surrender of the city. The Russian de-;
tachment forrped an entrenchment on the sea*
shore, where it remained. until 4 ceinforcemfnt 9f
four thousand men catne from Astracan, lyiiii
orders to force an entrance into Reshd ; but this
service was not found necessary, for, oq the arri-
val of the additional force, the gaties ^f R^shd
were immediately thrown open, and the whole
province of GhUan became suiyect tQ Russia.

The officer who commanded the auxiliary
troops had, in his passage, down the Caspian,
touched at Baku, where he wa^ dire.cted to lodge
a garrison, conformably to a previous riequisitiQi)
of the Persian governor, but the sqccour arriving
too late, the plape had sul^fpjitted to aq Afghan
army. Peter,, anxious to ac<iuire so valuable -^n
acquisition, dispatched in ti^ie course of the fol-
lowing year, 1723, a strong naval armament from
Astracan, which entering the port of Baku,* took

* This word, I aa> infotroed, is composed of the Persian
iv.ords Q.ad ^d J|p, signifying* a windy hiil ; it is certain that a
strong wind generally prevails at that place.

278 forster's TRATELS.

the fort after a short bombardment. It is said
that previously to this siege, the Persians bad
never seen a 'mortar, and that when the Russian
bomb-ketch was warped into its station^ they ri-
diculed the attempt of so ^mall a vessel preparing
to attack the fort; but the destruction of the
buildings, and the carnage which ensued/ speedi->
ly converted their contempt into astfonishn^ent
and fear.

These leading lines of the progress andesta-^
blishment of the Russian power on the Caspian
sea, are largely bprrowed from the memoirs of a
. Captain Bruce, who served in Peter's army dur-
ing the first Persian expedition, and who seems
to have made his observations with an accurate
judgment ; he has certainly related them with
simplicity and candour. His documents also cor-r
responding with the information which I collected
in Persia, this sketch is laid before you with the
greater confidence. From the. period at which
Peter fixed his power in the provinces of
Shirvan and Ghilan, to the year 1732, when
Nadir deposed Shah Thamas, and assumed
the diadem of Persia, it is not seen that
any material occurrences interposed to disturb
the Russian territory pr commerce on the Cas-
pian. But when this meteor of the east had
blazed forth, and in its cpurse consumed or dis*
i^ayedahe surrounding natipns, the Russians^ theo

forstbb's travels; ^79

involved in domestic commotion and intrigue,'
were compelled to evacuate their Caspian domi-
nion, with only a permission to hold a resident
at the sea-port of Enzillee^ for the management
of the Ghilan silk trade. *

FutTAH Ali Khak, having within these late
years, engaged in a desultory warfare with the
Lesghi Tartars, sought the assistance of the Rus-
sians, who after repelling the incursions of the
enemy, held for some time possession of the fort
of Derbent. It has been again restored ; but
the conditions are not known, though we may in-
fer from the policy of the Court of Petersburghi,
which is not in the habit of retrenching its limits^
that the cause of withdrawing the garrison of
Derbent did not proceed from mere motives of
liberality.

That your knowledge of this quarter of Persia
may be more complete and satisfactory, I have
been prompted to annex in this place, a survey
of the Caspian sea made by Captain Bruce, in
the year 1723, by the order of Peter, after his
return from Persia. The relation of this survey

* In the year 1746, an embassy was sent by the empress
Elizabeth to Nadir Shah, a relation of which has been pub-
lished by Mr. William Cooke, who accompanied it in the ca^
pacity of a surgeon ; and at that time it appears that except
the Enzillee factory, and a commercial residency at Derbent,
jthe Russians d^d not possess any establishment in Pertia,

jMO VOmSTEB.'g T|tAF«(ik

is deficient in the detail of bcftriags, wt\d ofte& of
the 80UD()iQgs, nor i& it kaow^ vfhietber these r^
Biarks ^ei;e ever recorded, or have hej^n onutted
^y the publisher; but the information is Kiuch
wanted, for except the Russians, Qihjer. nafioDs
^re still trivially acquainted with tl)6 chaste of the
Ca;spian Sea j especially with that which eoofinea
Tdrtary,

Captain Bruce says, " we received orders to
*^ go all round the Caspian sea^ lo survey aad
" soqnd it, and. lay down in a chart all tb^ fivers,
*y creeks, and bays, with aU the different souod*
^^ ings ; and for this se^vicQ had ode of the atrong^
'* est new built galleys of forty oars, carrying two
*' eighteen pounders in her prow, twenty-four
^^jSwivt^ls, and three hundred men^ attt^nded with
" four boats, two of eight oars, one of.teo^ and
" another of twelve, e^ch boat carrying one swi-
'^ vel gun ; and two sub-eagineers were appointed
^^ for my assistants*

. *\ Tiifl ISthof ApriU 1783, went down to the
*^ mouth of the Yolga,* and;ne3tt morning pro-
V ceeding frorn thence (eastward, we passed in
■^ very shallow water along the coast, so very

overgrown with weeds, that we were obliged to
• keep at five or six miles distance from the
*^ 3hore, in from ten to twelve feet water ; and

€i

ii

• forty wiles below the city of Astit^eaji,

FORST^R 9 TBAVBLft,

€9

t(

4i

«i

<i

it

€i

((

all th€[ ws^y, cvea for eight days thAc, wcl
<^ could find no place to Iand> even our smallest
boat& . We saw two Uttle islands in the way;
but we could not come at them 'for reeds; but
w$ kiUed a great numbetof sea-fowl, thai have
their nests in these islands, >and had plenty of
fish and fowl all the way. We sailed knd row*
ed, as the wind permitted, but came to an an-
chor every evening, that nothing might escape
*^ oor observatiofu

*^ On the 26th we arrived at the river Jaick ;
^^ ibe month is one hundred &thoms broad, and
*^ eighteen feet deep ; we went to the town of
'^ Jaick, that stands about one mile up the river,
^^ which is well fortified, and has a strong gard*
^*'son of Russians and Tartars,* to keep the
^^ Kalmuck and Nagayan Tartars in awe, and to
prevent them from attacking each other^ as
they live in perpetual enmity.
" THENagayans inhabit all the country from
*^ Astracan to the Jaick, all along the sea coast,
** being two hundred and fifty verstsf in extent;
*' and the Kalmucks possess that vast tract of
^* land from SaratofF to the great desert of Beri-
^y ket, and that tract to the south of the Jaick,

«

$i

* The inhabitants, of that tract of Tartary, which has been
completely subdued by Russia and now a stationary people.

t At tbe^ommon calculation of two thirds of a mile to a
v^rst^ l(bis dist»«ce is 170 mil^«

882 FOKSTEB*^ TBAVCL8*

** all along the shore to the river Yembo, which
^ is 93 versts from this place; we stayed only
** one day at Jaick,* and provided ourselves with'
^ firesh meat and water.

"Being informed by the governor of the
f^ place, that there was a large golph to tlie

eastward, extending to the river Yembo, .

but too shallow to admit our galley, I sent
" one of <?ur iBngineers to go round and survey
*' it, and join us again on the opposite pcHut,
" for which we proceeded immediately ; and
^^ sailing south, we anchored on the SOth,
** between the' island of Kulala and the point of
** the main, in six fathoms water, in view of the
" mountains of Kanayan, and from whence we
^^ had a clean and deep shore. At this place
*^ begin the territories of the Turkistan and Tur-
^* comanian Tartars. During our stay, waiting
" the return of the engineer, we laid in plenty of
" wood and water, and diverted ourselves

* Tbe Russians send annually two or three barks from As- ,
tracan to Uir Gunge, a Turcoman mart, situated on this river,
above the town of Jaick, whence, in return for Europeai^
commodities, as steel, bar-iron, and rcfnnants of broad cloth,
they import furs and salt fish. Tbe Jaick continues frozen
• from the month of December to the middle^of March, during
which period the Uir Gunge trade ceases ; nor do the Tartars,
who are chiefly merchants of Bochara and Samur Kund, re-
side at that place, after the departure of tbe Russum vessels.
Georgs Foster*

FCRSTia's TRAVELl. £83

^* with fowling, and fishing ; we caught here a
*' Beluga, of upwards of six yards long/ and
" thick in proportion, from the roe of which we
*^ made excellent caviar, which lasted us above
" a month.

" Ou a engineer, with the boats, joined us, onr
" the 10th of May, who reported that in the
survey of the bay, he found only from five to
eight feet water ; that the whole shore was so
*' covered with reeds, that they could only land
** at the mouth of the river Yembo, which was
** both broad and deep. We left the island of
^^ Kulala, on the 11th, on our way to the gulph
*' of Iskander, where we arrived on the 26th ;
'^ all along this coast there is a great depth of
** water, so that we could land with our galley
*^ on any part of it,

** A GREAT number of small rivers fall intd the
^* sea from the mountains, but we could not Idarn
** their names, although I attempted to get inform
^* mation, by sending the twelve oared boat with
^* an officer and twenty-four men, and an inter-
•* preter to speak to the people on shore ; but
^* they no sooner came near enough, than the
" Tartars let fly a volley of arrows at our peo-
" pie, who returned the salute with a discharge^
of musquetry at them ; and we fired one of
our great guns from the galley at them, which
^^ made them retire to the mountains in good

*

dS4 rofisTE&'a TRAtxts-^'

'^ hasie* They always appeared in greal: parties
^ on horseback^ aad w«ll armed, aiid. we savir
.^ sereral .of tbeir hordes or eamfibS at ^ great dis^
^ tance, froaa Ifhich they raove at 'pleasure,
** and wander from place to place, for those
^ Taifta^ have na settled abode ; they continued
** to attend us everyday m great parties, to watch
^ our motions^ out of the reach of our gans, and
^^ they disappeared entirely on our arrival io the
^ gulph of Iskander, which is one hundred and
^ eighty four versts from the island of- Kiiiala.
** In this gulph, which ^ thirty verstiB in length
<^ and eighteen broad, we found near jhe shore
•* from five to six fathoms water, .with a dear
" ground and exceeding good anchorage.*! .

On the 10th of April, the vessel in which I had
embarked, sailed for Baku, and cocfsting the
porth-east head-land of the bay, anchored at
Abshhc^rah,^ a roadstead on a rocky, fihore^ at
which pl^ce most of the passengers came on
board. The Armenians and Greeks had remained
to celebrate the Easter festival at Baku, .where
they have been permitted to erect a small chapeL
The Persiatis of Shirwan, whether, from a fi^e-
quent interco«rse with the Greeks, who introduce
much wealth into their country, or from a diH^ad
of the Russian power, sh^w a less dislike to

• A Persian compound word, ^ignif^ing sHU water.

the Christians thaa those of the eastern pro-
vinces,*

Not being considered a staunch member of the

faith, or thought to possess a sufGcient sanctity o^
mannerS| I was not invited to assist at the oons^
elusion of the Easter-fast. But, much a^in my
will, I became a partaker of it on board :^he ves-
sel. On the morning of Easter •'Sunday, I^ng be^
fore break of day, the wliole ship s crew, fron^
master to the cook, rushed tumultuously into the
cabin, where I was asleep, and bellpwed o\i%
their prayers to the figures of the Virgiii, and
their patron, Saint Nicholas, for the, speedy de«
- liverance of Christ from the grave ; whiehics soon
as was supposed to be effected, they saluted eac^
other 4:>y a kiss^ saying ^^ Christ has^ ri^efi.'*

During the fervor of this occupation, I ^as
wholly overlooked and trampled on. They did
not however neglect me in the more substantial
part of the festival ; for, though in bed, they
placed near me a large pudding stuffed with nieat,,
which they earnestly desired me to eat ; observe
ing that as I must have incurred d i^vere re-
straint during their rigorous Lent, it was tiow- ne-

* A society of ^Persians, of the Sooni fi^iHh, is established at
Shahmachee, and its neighbourhood, who are govefhed by
a chief of their own tribe, a ptoprietbt of certain districts
held iafeu of^Fultah Aii«Khan.

f» I

286 fobs'teii's tbav'e^s.

cessary to regale and be merry. / They themselves
implicitly conformed to the advice ; and from the
extraordinary quantity of flesh meat which they
hastily devoured, during these holidays, it seemed
that they eat as much for the purpose of compen^
sating lost time, as the gratification of appetite.

On the ISth of April, every person and every,
parcel that could possibly find- a place being em-
barked, the vessel sailed, passing between a small
island of the rocks and the main. On looking
around, I wasamazed at the crowd of passengers, and
thelumber that was scattered on the deck and sus-
pendj^d from the sides. I could not have thought it
possible for such a space to contain so much
matter. The lodging allotted to me admitted
scantily of my length, and of lying only on one
side; but I was fortunate in an interior station,
which saved me from being trod on by the other
passengers, over whom lay my common path.
When placed at the same board with a Russian,
an Armenian, a Greek, and a Persian, I used to
investigate with a pleasing curiosity the cause
which had linked in the bonds of society five per-
sons of different nations, manners, and prejudices.
The union was manifestly formed by self interest,
which,^ii4im Tefined by a knowledge of the world,
induces men to seek profit and pleasure through
various channels, and in the pursuit, which is

FOItSTER S TBAVELS. 07

eager and vigorous^ many are prompted to break
down the strongest fences which education or
superstition can plant.

^ On the evening of the SOth, having seen two
fishing-boats, which marked the vicinity of the
Astracan shore^ our bai'k came to an anchor in
three fathom water^ but no land in sight. la
the evening the wind began to blo\y with violence,
and raised the sea, which in the Caspian is soon
agitated, having a short irregular motion, and
breaking with great force. I had not been long
in bed, when the Greek gentleman expressed an
apprehension that the vessel was touching the
ground, which was soon verified by a rough shock
of the rudder. A scene of confusion, marked
with various tokens of distress now ensued. Some
were bawling out in the Kussian, the Armenian,
and iu the Persian language, while others were
lamenting their fate iq Greek and Turkish.
. Had I not been so essentially interested in the
event, which bore a very unpromising aspect, the
diversity of modes adopted in expressing a sense
of this disaster, would have afforded matter of
curious notice. Every man was imploring the
divine interposition in his own manner and lan«
guage; but my attention was chiefly attracted by
a Persian, who had taken, refuge in the cabin, a
place be imagined of the more safety, from thq
. master having taken his station there. In a pi«

t88 , VORSTErIs TJlATBtaL.

teons tc^e he begged that I \veuM accommodate
bimiwitb.apillowy tliat fae might compose htax*-
s^If, and await his last hour With resigoatioTi ;
amidst iris ejacolauons^ wliich \yea^ loud and fer-
«nty he did not jonce mention the naooe of Ma-
]K>met* Tiie i^hole force of his prayers were le-^
Yiolled at Aliy oa whom be b^tow^ e?ery trtlB
that cotild denote sanctity, or mUttary prowess ;
he caHed on him by ]tbe name of the lEriend of
&odythe Lord oif the faithful, and thre brs^disher
of the invincible sword^ to look down <m his- ser-
Tant, and shield him from the impaidmg evfil ;
thinking also to obtain the moie grace with cbe
fkther, he woold ocoasiona41y launch out into tb^
praises 'of his two sows.*

Thk bales of silk, with whicfa the cal>ifl msa
filled to half its height, being removed forward,
the vessel, which struck only at the stem, was for
a time relieved ; but the i^ind and sea dQcreasi«^
cur danger became imminent. I proposed to the
Greek to throw over some part of tbe ^argo, as
the best mode of saving the rest, as also'our Uv^es;
and he was disposed to try the expedient bad be
not been obstructed by the passengers, who bit-
terly inveighed against the proposal and the ad«
venturing Feringhee its author, who having no-
thing to lose they said was little interested in the
issue. Yet, I can with truth aver, that in no

** Hussin and HusseyiK

porster's travels. 289

situation of difficulty in which I have been occa-
sionally involved, did I ever feel a stronger reluct-
ance of quitting the " warm precincts of day;" I
could not with adequate fortitude reconcile the
idea of being lost on a shore, which I had so long
sought with labour and anxiety, and which I. had
approached only to meet destruction. But that I
might not be taken wholly unprepared, I secured
about my person the journal of my route, the .
only article of property which was in the least
valuable.

. Having obtained the Greek's consent to cut
away some heavy luitiber which hung from that
quarter, and greatly contributed to augment the
force of the vesseFs striking the ground ; I began
to throw into the sea empty casks, tubs^ and
baskets of fruit; and was proceeding briskly in
the work, when I was driven from my post by a
strong party of the proprietors.

On the 22d, before noon, the wind having
abated a little, the crew were emabled, though
with difficulty, to hoist out the boat, which was
out of all proportion, large and heavy ; nor did
the vessel ever touch the ground after being dis-
burthened of this mass.

On the 23d, ,at anchor, the. wind moderate, .
but contrary. The vessel remained nearly in the
same place until the 28th, when many fishing
boats came in sight; not less, I imagine; than
Vol. II, u

290 PORSTEI^'a TRAV£ir

one hundred ; and some of tbom visi^ng us, we
purchased, at the rate of a shilling a-piece, excelr
l^nt sturgeon, the roes of which, strippeid of the
filaoiept^ and sprinkled with salt, without any
other preparation, i3 the common food of the
Russians, and of which I have eat heartily. This
ivh^n dried, )» called in Europe, the caviar^ a^
produces a profitable traflfec to the city of Astra.-
can. The sturgeon fishery is chiefly Qondacted
l^y Kalmucjc Tartars, who find a ready sale for
their fish at numerous factories established by
the Rus$ian3i on the lower parts of the Volga,
for the purpose of salting sturgeon and preparing
the caviar.

Having uoderstopd that the Kalmuclss were
a lyiigrating people, consisting wholly of shep-
herds and soldiers, who derived a subsistence
^om their broods of cattle, and marauding ex-
peditions, I was surprized at seeing them occu-*
pied in a marine profession. But many thou-
^9Sid$ of the Kalqauck race are scattered about
tlijs northern coast of the Caspian, where, in smaii
ijanrow boats, worked by four or five persons,
they are engaged in the sturgeon fishery during
the summer months. They often continue many
successive days at sea, the water* of which they

* At the distftoce of fifteen and twenty Leagues frcan i|ie north
shore of the Caspiaij, the water, freshened by the large rivers
flowing into it from that quarter, inay<%e drank withottt £re«

FORStER's TRAVEtS. $^

drink. Aod they eat in its raw atate the produce
of their labours.

There is not perhaps on the face of the earth,
a humah dreature who lives' on coarser fare, 6t
to a civilized people triore disgusting than a Kal-
muck Tartar ; not even the savages of southerrt
Africa. Putrid fish, raw, or the fiesh of carrion,
horses, oxen, and camels, is the ordinary food
of Kafmucks ; and tfeey are more activis and less
susceptible of the indeoiency of weather thali any
race of men I have ever seen. The features of a

4

Kalmuck, though coarser, bear a striking resem-
f>lance to those of tiie Chinese; the upper part
of his nose is scarcely seen to project from the
ikce, and' its extremity is furnished with widely
dilated nostrils.

Being anxious to leave the ship, whose provi-^
sions were nearly consumed, and which, froba the
crowd and filth of the passengers, had become
very offensive, I hited, in conj unction with the
Greek gentleman, a Kalmuck boat to go to Astra«
can. But, before I quit the subj^t of the vessel,
I must mention to you that we brought from Baku
five Hindoos ; two of them were merchants bf
Moultan, and three were mendicants ; a fathei*,
his son, and a Sunyasse.* The lisust was a hale,

judice ; it being only bracjl^isb, when the. wind blaws strong
from the southward.

* The name of a religious sect of Hindoos, chiefly of the
Bramin tribe.

u 2

9S2 FO ESTER S TRAVEL^.

spirited young man, who, iippelled by an equal
alertness in nnind and l^ody, blended also with a
strong tii)cture of fauatiqism, was making, it may
be termed, the tour of tl^e wodd ; for he did not
seem to hold it a matter of. much concern whither
his course was directed, provided he was in
motion.

The Hindoos at Baku had supplied his little
wants, and recontimended him to their agents in
Russia, whence he said, he would like to proceed
with me to England. The Moultanee Hindoos
-were going to Astracan on a commercial adven-
ture merely, and would not have gone a mile out
of the road to have served God or maq. When
I accused the Hindoos of polluting themselves by
drinking the cask*water, and preparing victuals in
the ship-kitchen, they observed, that .they had
already become impure by crossing the forbidden
river,* beyond which all discrimination of tribes
qeased. Though spirituous liquors are prohibited
to the Hindoos, it does not appear that the use jof
bank, an intoxicating weed which resembles the
hemp in Europe, and is prepared either for
smoaking or a draught, is considered even by the
mdst rigid a breach of the law, for they drin,k it
without reserve, and often to excess.

* The Attoc— JV. B» The verses of the Emperor to the
Hindoo Rajah.

forstbr's travels. S92

In the evening of the 28th of April, four of us
embarked in one of the Kalmuck boats, rowed by
four stout men, who directing a course for the
Astracan channel, proceeded at the rate of five
miles an hour, over very smooth water; we
reached before night a small inhabited isM^d,
about twenty-five miles distant from the vessel ;
and as the Kalmucks were fatigued with hard
work, is was ajgreed to go on shore for a few hours
to give them a respite. I landed with joy on the
territoiy of Russia ; and you who have ntiw pe*
rused the story of my long, laborious journey,
will see reason, without the aid of figurative en*^
largement, for the pleasure ^^felt• The inhabi-
tants of the island, who were agents of the stur-
geon fishery, received us with cordiality, and when
apprized of the. Greek gentleman's rank in the
service, treated him with much respect. In a
wooden house, cleanly furnished in the European
manner, which to me was a rare object,* we were
entertained with a dish of sturgeon, in broth, good
bread, and pure water. : Excuse the sensuality of
my description ; but I must give way to an im^
pulse of joy at the remembrance of that delicious
meal. It was personally served up by our host, *
who agreeably to the ancient custom of Russia,
waited at table, and performed all the offices of
assiduous hospitality.

At the conclusion df the repast, in which the

Sg4 ^ FOBSTBk's TAAVBtSk

K^cijniucks bad subapquently $Uared,,we proceeded
oa QW journey^ and leaving Jbhh's felaffiid* dn the
lef^, tb^ lights of which wbre seen, jenter^d the
Astracan branch of the Volga. About midnight
the boatmeq became so touch hanrassed by the
laboJ|f> of the oar, at which they probably had
been employed all, the preceding day, tbait it was
found necessary to refresh them with a liltle sleep,
of which I was also in great need. Having only
a space tp sit on with i»y legs bent under me, th^
position had long been very painful, and no sooner
did the boat touch ground, thian leaping out, I
spread, my. cloak oa the ground, and slept soundly
three houi;s. At day light we commented our
journey, which led among numerous low islands,
covered with reeds, and about eight o'clock in the
morning, arrived at a station caUed the Brand
Wacht, about twelve miles within John's Island,
where, a itiarine guard is posted for the protection
of the custO0)-hou5e, and enforcing the occasional
ot^s^jTvaoc^ of qiuarantindi It was fortunate that
I had procured a;wrilLt«ii testiiaony of my situa-
tion firon^ the caplaiaofth6 frigate at Bsaku, with*
out which I must have awaited the orders of tlie
A&traca,a government, . We discharged the Kal-
mucks at the Brand Wacht, and hired an eight

. i'.'

* Called also Chaftirec BougarreCf Itstapds at tba month
of tl^e Astiracan cimnnek aiid. is iiu;nisbed vikU a Ii£}]t«hi>|usc«

oared boat, the properly of Turkbman Tartars,*
who were clothed like Russian sieatrieh, and very
expert in the, ttiatiageniertt of the ofeir.

The Turkoman subjects of Russia are an in-
dustrious quiet people, and haVe becortie liSeftil
subjects to the state. Many of them serve in the
navy and army, where they are received without
objection to their religious tenets, which are less
intemperate than those of any other of the west-
fern Mahometans. Few villages are seen on the
borders of this branch of the Volga; the land^
nearly level with the water, is thickly covered witk
feeds, affording a commodious shelter, to nume-
rous flocks of wild geese, which seem to have re-
sorted thither from all quarters of the globe ; nor
could they have chosen a fitter plac« ; it is equally
secluded from tl^ haunts of men and animals, de-
fended by a strong cover, and abundantly supplied
with fresh water.

When we arrived in sight of the great church
,of Astracan, which, with the other spires and high
buildings of that city, present a beautiful vista to
a long reach of the Volga, my Greek friend afoscv
and making the sigh of the cfroi^s on tris bodyv
ofFeVed up, with art tinaffected decent xJevotion, a
prayer of thanksgiviiig for his safe return to hi*

* The descendants of those Tartars, who were in possession
of Asttacan, when it was subdued in 1552, by the Czar Ivan
fea&ilivit^, ^ui'bamed tfce Tytanr.

£96 porster!s tba^vels.

country ; and I trust that I shall not incur your
^ensure for having adopted his mariner and ex-
ample. Foi'ms are the least important part of
our duty; and the observance of this I held a
necessary respect for th^ religious worship of
a man who had rendered me essential offices of
Jiumanity.

On our arrival at his house, which stands on
the bank of the river, I requested leave to retire
to a separate apartment until my person shoiuld
Xindergo a purification, which had now become
urgently necessary, and some European apparel
provided. This warm hearted Greek would not
listen to the proposal, but, seizing my arm, for-
cibly dragged me into the room, where his wife,
a pretty young woman, and some gentlemen of
the place, were assembled. He introduced me
to the company by the name of Signor Georgio,
and, in a few words, recounted to them the head§
of my story. Though I was clad in an ordinary
Persian dress, had a rough beard, and a very
weather-beaten face, not one of them seemed to
notice the uncouth appearance, but by kind and
polite congratulations took every occasion to dis-
pel my evident embarrassment. I soon went to
bed, where I must have been overpowered by a
strong sleep ; for the Greek told me in the
morning, that he had made repeated attempts to
awaken me, fearing that jiis house would have

forsteb's travbls. 297

been consumed by a fire which had broke out
with violence in the neighbourhood. My host
insisted on furnishing me with clothing out of his
own wardrobe, observing that, my short stay at
Astracan would not admit of a new equipment.
An Armenian gentleman, who came to welcome
the Greek's arrival, proposed to introduce me to
the officer commanding the Caspian squadron,
and to one of my countrymen, a lieutenant in the
Russian navy.

The commodore,* who spoke the English lan-
guage very intelligibly, received us with much
politeness, and* sent a servant to inform Mr.
Long, the English gentleman, of my arrival.
The connection which I formed with my coun-^*
tryman, who was of a friendly and chearful dis-
position, rendered my stay at^ Astracan very plea-
sant; and having little other occupation there
than that of a spectator, you will necessarily sup-
pose that I ought to give some description of
this quarter of Russia ; but the subject has ^
already been so amply investigated by writers of
almost every European nation, that, had my resi-
dence enabled me to undertake the discussion,
little remains to be described.

It is seen in the history of Russia, that the
Czar, Ivan Basilovitz, having, in the year li52i

* Pe(er HannicofT, a knight of one of the military orders.

/

Jd8 FOSSTBfe's thAVJLft

t'ottqttcfed thie Tartar kingdotn of CdSan, h^
turt^ed his arms agairtst the Negay Tartars of
Astracan^ and subdued theit cotimty^ the capital
of which h^ took by assault, fend sti-ettglBeti^d it
in the Asiatic ittattner. The *pac6 whfeh the rer-
ritory of Astracan occupies oil the fdt& 6f the
^obe is so peculiarly marked; that it enfdt*eei tb^
notice of every obsierver. On the ^ist ^d south-
east it is skirted by a wild extensive desert, f-^ch-
ing to the habitable quarters of Transo^onian
Tartary ; » on thfe south, it haith the biEtfren shores
of • the Caspian i^ea ; on the south-i^ast, a desiert
of three o)r four huudred miles, exteinding to Cir-
cassia, which is only supplied at tWo plates with
fresh water ; atid, oil th6' wi^st, atiother spacious
wast^ divides it from the Black s^a.

Ok these dreary piaitts little oth\6»- vestige of
bamanity is seeii than thinly scattered horde's of
roving Tartars, wb6sfe rude and savage life but
Jncreaises the horror of the scene ; antl, a^ if the
kit^der ptiwers 6f nature had been destroyed, or
iin-csied by some maligMtil influence, Mt a ihrub
or Wade of grai^ is to be sefeA oh many of thtese
piaitts, that fs b6t t^intfed wiUi noxib'uB i^ftaRties.
To the north and north-east, the proviAce of
AslraCAA fs bouWde'd by Russia Propfefr and
Casan, btt whi^h side, aifeo, a w!de tract fef ba'ri*ri
land is interposed. The island on which Astra-
cail stands, ^s wb\l as iVs depeAddnt^erri'fory,

PORSTER^S TRAVELS. ^99

produces ho grain, and though ^6 deeply sur-
rounded by dedfcrts, no quarter of the Russian
dominiotis is nwre abundantly supplied with this
provision. The country to the westward and
southward of Astracan produces a natural salt, of
an excellent quality for domestic uses, which is
transported from thence to remote parts of the
empire, chiefly by water-K:arriage.* The flourish*
ing state of the province of Astracan hath also
been largely promoted by its fisheries on the
Volga and the Caspian sea, where the fish are
procured and salted at a cheap rate, and the sale
is very exteifisive.

A BRISK trafiic has long subsisted between
Astracan and the Tartars of Bochara and Khievai
who, in return for their curiours furs and lamb-
skins, purchase a variety of European conimo-
dities ; yet the natural advantages "^of Astracan
would yield but a small portion of their benefits,
did not the Volga furnish the means of a secure
and comn>odious conveyance. This river, whicl)
has a course of not less than two thousand British
miles, tates its rise from a lake of the same i;rame,

* Saltpetre, though not in large quantities, is found in the.
vicinity of Astracan, which, according to Cooke, is taken out
of the earth, and macerated for some time in water ; then they
draw it off, and hy adding soot and some quick linie, evaporats
the water, and make as good saltpetre as can be made arty
where. See tracts of William Cook^/ Sur^o,

soo

forsteb's travels*

in the province of Novgorod, latitude &T^ longi-
tude east 51, and after skirting numerous cities
and mercantile towns, falls into the Caspian sea,
forty miles below Astracan. In this course it
receives many rivers and lesser stream6> which,
spreading to the eastward, form a navigable com-
munication throughout that wide space of country
lying between Siberia ^nd the Dnieper.

By the Occa which receives, the. river Mosca
and JQins the Volga, at the city of. Nijnio No-
vegorod^ lajfge boats pass from Asttacan to the
old capital; and by a canal which unites the
Volga with the Msta, a river ultimately flowing
ipto the Lodoga lake, the;30urce of the Neva,
sa inland navigation is completely open between
the Caspian and, the Baltic seas. From the level
iiiceofthe country, the current* of the Volga
has little force, and will admit of boats being
warped against it, at the rate of three miles an
bour.f The city of Astracan is supposed to con-
tain about eighty thousand inhabitants. Exclu-
sive of the Russians, thfere is a numerous co-
lony of Nagayan Tartars, (the ancient people pf
the country) many Greeks, Armenians, and Cir-
cassians, some itinerant Persians, and a small
society of Hindoos.

* It runs about one and a half, and two miles per hour.
rf For a description of the manner in which these boats are
worke.i, s( c Han way's and Bruce's Travels.

/

FORSTEto's - TRA VELi.

^1

In th6 life of Timur Beg, translated fr<:^in the;
!Persic by M. P6lit de la Croix, Astracan is de-
nominated Hadji Terkan, one of the principal
citiesof the kihgdonfi of Kap'chac, which Timur,
when he penetrated into that quarter of Tartary,
took and destroyed. This prince detached also
a part of his army further up the Volga to Serai,*
the capitalbf Kapchac, which was plundered and
reduced to ashes."' In theJiistory of Timur, I find
a passage relative to Russia, which', for the cu-
rious information it conveys, deserves a distinct
notice.

Timur, in the pursuit of a vanquished enemy,
arrived at the river Dnieper, which leaving on
the^left, he crossed the Don, and entered thfe
dominion of Russia. The author, in the English
translation, says, ^' our* soldiers pursued him as
far as Corason, the present Koresh, a town of
Grand Russia, which they entirely pillaged*
They over-run all the great kingdom of Mus-
covy and Oureus-dgic, or little Russia, where
they took prodigious droves of cattle, and abun-
dance of woinen, and girls of all ages, and of
an extraordinary beauty and shape, . Then Ti-
mur went in person to the city of Moscow, the
capital of Grand Russia, which his soldiers
plundered, as they had done all the neighbour^

it

(C

a

u

<c

(C

c<

ti

li

Si

An Asiatic word sif];nifying residence.

ft
it
it
u

** ing places depencjant on it, defeating apfij cut-
" ting in pieces the goyetnor$ and pririces. The
" Russians and Muscovites never bejjel^ their
kingdom in so bad a condition ; their plains
being cpvered with dead, bodies. The army
enriched themselves with whatever they could
findjn this; vs^t country, as ii>gots of gpld»
^ silver bkdes, gre^t quantities of antioch; very
'' nfuch esteemed clothe lyore iix Russia with a
" great deal of sjrill and niqety ; vast numbers of
^' sables, black as jet, ^nd ^rwos, with which
every person in the army was sufficiently fur-
nished, both for hi^ own and. his cbildrens
*^ lives ; as likewise skins of vacas:b, grey Qn4
white, spotted like tygers skins. They also
brought away many skins of grey, and ri^d foxes^
" andan infinite number of youpg c^lts ly^ich
'^ which had not been shod. It would be tedious
" to give a detail of all the booty they obtained
" in this great country,"

What an immense scope did the conquests
and invasions of Timur embrace. His army were
seen victorious on the Ganges, and his banners
flying on the confines of the Baltic sea ! yet, view
the scene of the present day, and you will behold
the great empire, which he founded, mouldered
into dust. Russia, which had felt the force of
the destructive Tartar, and was but yesterday
drawn out of barbarism and reduced into form,

2

it

it
It

forster's travels. SOS

hath already taken ample vengeance* for the dis^
grace sfeehdd suffered; and in the probable re-
volution of events, promises to complete the
work which ha^ been so successfully begun.

During the flourishing state of Persia and
Turkey, wTien these powers were enabled to re-
strain! the Russian empire within its proper limit,
Astracan was considered an important frontier.
But since the decay of the Persian monarchy^
the independance of Georgia, and the cession of
the Crimea by the Turks, who, in this surrender,
have proclainied their weakness and pusillani-
mity to the world ; and since the Tartars who
were scattered over the eastern and western sides
of tlie V<ilga, have been either compelled to desert
thjBir haunts, or submit to the Russian power,
this province no longer forms the boun(i[aryX)f the
empire. The government of Astracan is now
directed by a system wholly civil and commercial,
and the garrison consists of about fifteen hundred
naen, who* have more the appearance of militia
than regular troops, and are conspicuously de-
ficient in military order.

In this city, which occupies a mediate situa-
tion between Asia and Europe, there is perhaps
a more diversified assemblage of nations, than on
any other spot on the glotfe, and a more liberal

• The imperial family of Turkey is of the Tartar tace.

304 FO^KSTER's TkAVBlfS.

display of toleration; yoi^ see the Greek, Lu-
theran, and Rom^n churches, mingled with the
!^ahometan oios^de and IJindoo pagoda, and the
different sectaries united by the bonds pf a cona-
mon social compact. The largest portion of the
industry and adventure.which supports the com-
merce of Astracan, is contributed by the Arme-
nians,^ who are the proprietors of most of the
Caspian vessels, and the chief conductors of the
Persian trade. By their pliant manners, but more
by their wealth, which has supplied the means of
securing the favour of government, the Armenians
have acquired a distinguished influence and re-
spect in this province, where they exhibit a
cumbrous luxury and splendour ; and generally
adopt the Russian manners. It evidently appears
that the extensive encouragement given to these
people, has conduced to introduce much wealth

«

and commercial emulation into this part of the
empire.

The Hindoos also enjoy at Astracan very fair
indulgence ; nor could they in the most celebrated
places of worship in India, perform their rites
with more freedom. They are not stationary re-
sidents, nor do they keep any of their females in
this city ; but after accumulating a certain pro-
perty they return to India, and are succeeded by
other adventurers. Being a mercantile sect of
their nation, and occupied in a desultory species

1

"./

of traffic, they hare neglected to prei^erve any
record of their first settlement, and subsequent
progress in this quarter of Russia 5 nor is the feet
ascertained with any accuracy by the natives of
Astracan. In the karavansera allotted to them,
which is comrnodious ' and detached, they mak6
their ablutions and offer up their prayers, with*-'
out attracting even the curiosity of the Christians;
and they do not fail to gi^atefuUy contrast so tern-
perate a conduct with that of Piersigl, where their
religion, persons, and property, are equally ex-
posed to the attacks of bigotry and avarice*

Manifest proofe were daily presented to m^
of the benefits conferred by the Volga on Astra-
can, and the southern quarters of the province,
which, though productive of no grain, and but
little pasturage, are amply supplied with provi-
sions,* from the vicinity of Czaritsin, and eveii
from Casan, though at the distance of one thou*
sand miles. A grand testimony of the uses of this
riv^er, which is formed on common notice, is seen
in the immediate construction of the city of A&tra-
can, which, though not a tree grows in the pro-
vince, exce'pt in gardens, is chiefly composed of
wooden houses ; numerous vessels are also buih

♦ Wheat bread, bore the price of one and a half farthing
per pound, and beef of three fatthings per p<f«tiid.

Vol. II. X

SO0 yOXSTER's TRAVELS. .

in the docks, and a vast quantity of fuel is con-
sumed by the inhabitants. All this timber is
floated, down the Volga, or imported in boats
from the upper countries.

During my short stay at Astracan, I daily
.visited the marine yard, where I received much
pleasure in viewing the progress which the Rus-
sians have made in all the degrees of naval archi-
tecture, since the time of Peter. The squadron
now in force for the protection of the Caspian
trade, and awing ^uch of the bordering states as
may be hostile to the designs of Russia, consists
of five frigates of twenty guns,* one bomb-ketch
and some tenders. Out of this amount, two
frigates, with the bomb-ketch, are at Astracan,
one at sea, and two on the passage from Casan.
These vessels,- on account of the shallows at the
mouth of the Volga, are constructed on a broad
bottom, and draw only eight or nine feet water.
An extensive marine yard has been within these
late years established at Casan, where the abun-
dant produce of oak timber, and other necessary
materials, with the advantage of the river, have
pointed out the conveniency of building the hulls
of the i(essels destined for the Caspian service*
The Russians have introduced into their navy
many of the Dutch principles and regulatioitis^
ti'hich it.is probable were adopted by Peter, sub-

f Six pounders*

tO^STBR's TKAVEtS. SO?

Aequetitly to his residence in Holland, and by the
uaval oflBcers which he invited from that country.
Some French ordinances, relative to the rank and
duty of officers, are also introduced, but it is not
seen that their system has received any improve-
ment froni the marine of England.

The Russian seamen, in addition to their diet
and clothes, receive nine rubles* per annum, and
as an inducement to prefer the naval service, they
are supplied with a daily ration of flesh provisions ;
an allowance not granted to the army, though it
is also furniahed with \diett by the government.
The Caspian squadron at this period, acts ulti-
mately under the orders of General Potemkin^i
whose army is stationed between the Caspian and
the Black sea. A part of this force hasi been
lately detached into Georgia, the territory of
Prince Heniclius,:|; a Christian chief, who, in the
last war between the Russians and the Turks,
withdrew his allegiance from the Porte*

SiNC£ the accession of the Crimea to Russia,

the empress hath held out an avowed protection
to Heraclius, who is now declared an independant
prince ; and it appears that an officer of the court
has been deputed to present him, in the imperial
name, with a crown of gold, and the title of King

* A ruble amounts to about four shillings and ibree pence^
t Con3isting of rye-bread, and salt only.
Uie is deaominate4 by the Asiatics, Heracly Khan.

. x 2

9W VOKSTER's TRAVKLSr

cif Grasia.^ By tfiis^act of policy, which invroTveil
no dangeir or charge, hath the aspiring monarcb
^f Russia, secured an useful ally, and established
Ml the side of Georgia a substantial barrier against
the natural enemies of her state. The other po-- '
^entates of Europe, are in the usage of presenj;*
ing their portraits, some curious animal perbfps,,
^r patents of nobility to their allies and Seivoriles ;
but a coimnanding fortune has enabled Q»thierioe
to bestow on her friends, f crowns and kingjdoms*
It may hQ Said that Russia holds the supremacy of
Georgia, and it is probable, that at the de^th of
the prince, a period which his advanced age places
at no remote distance, the succession will be ar-
ranged in the manner most accordant with the
policy of the court of Petersburgh.

An occurrence befel me on the day previous^
to my departure from Astracan^ which from a cu*
rious fact which it disclosed, may not be unworthy
of your notice. Whilst I was looking at some
passages of Han way's travels in Mr. Long's apart*

xnent, a Russian gentleman cam^ in, who pier-
ceiving that I was^ a foreigner, ^and from somi^
broken words which I spoke, probaUy *an Eng«
lishman, he addressed me with Ifluency in my owu
language ; the book in my hand, which he oh*
served belonged to him, had great merit, and

* Ah ancient name, I understand, of Georgia*
t Count Pomatousky and Heraclius*

that he was himself well acquainted with many
of the events recorded in it Without cere-
mony he entered into a general discussion of the
history of Persia, from the period of Hanvi^ay'g
conclusion to the present time, and treated th^
subject with much apparent accuracy.

This gentleman, of the name of Marck^, had
held the rank of brigadier general in the Russian
service, and for some years directed the affairs of
the Russiail factory at Ghilan ; but, on a tharge
of oppressing , some Armenian mer<ihants he' was
dismissed from the service, and mulcted in thi
whole amount of his property, Mn Marcke
.concluded his observations on Persia by noticing^
that the Gaptam Elton, who jh&s bsen already
mentioned, married an Armenian woman in Chil-
ian, and his datighter, the issue of that marriage,
was now residing at Astracan. Int^lligidtice, b^
said, had been received that an estate or lei'
gacy had been bequeathed to Eitoii 'during his
supposed residence in Persia, and, that if such
property had really devolved on him, no one
possessed a fairer claim to it than his daughtei^
who could ascertain the legitimacy of her birtl^
and who, now a> widow, encumbered with many
children, was reduced to extreme indigence,* It

* General Matcke says, that in a short time after the de^th
,of Nadir Skah> £lton was either assassinated, by the hand g/
the order of the father of the present chief of Gbilan.

SIO yORSTXIl's TRAVELS*

would be an act of charity, he added, to make an
enquiry on my arriyal in England intp the truth
of this intelligence, and endeavour to obtain^some
provision fqr a distressed family. Noticing in me
a more than ordinary concern for the misfortunes
of this woman, and the fate of her. father, he
said, that if I saw her, I 3hould be enabled to
represent her situation with more corroborating
facts. He objected to the proposal of my going
to her house, apprehending, froip her manner
of life, tha£ the visit would be incommodious,
but went himself, and conducted hpr to Mr,
Long's Ipdgings. She was a little woman,
about forty years of age, had from some acciT
dent b^cooie l^qpe, and was aqcpmpanied by q,
son.

Some years ago she had been induced to un-:
dertake a journey to Petersburgh, for the purr
' pose qf establishing her claims, and had reached
Moscow, where some Armenians, residing in that
city, diverted her intention, which they reprer
pented as fruitless without greater aids than sh^
possessed. The honest warmth with which Mn
JVIarcke espoused the cause of this forlorn widovr,
attracted me forcibly to him ; and the pleasure
nyhich I Suppose he received at observing the like
disposition in a stranger whom he was about to
part with, probably for evter, incited him to com-
municate many events of his life, which werq

forsteb's travels. $H

i

i^lated in a manner peculiarly animated and
pathetic.

It appeared that he was a native of the
Ukraine,, and had been early employed as secre-
tary to the Russian embassy at the court of
London, where, and at Petersburgh, he formed
many connections with our nation, to one of
whom, I think, he said his sister had been mar-
ried. He had served likewise in. the corps of
engineers, where, 1 have since understood, he
acquired the reputation of an officer of ability,
and formed a friendsliip with the present gov6rnqr
of Astracan, who now renders him many offices
of kindness. After occupying various stations
in the service of Russia, he was appointed to
the direction of the Ghilan factory, whence he
bad been removed at the instigation of the Aro^er
nians, who, he said, persecuted him with uncom*
mon marks of malignity. His property was con-
fiscated, and he received the sentence of banish-
ment to Siberia., which was afterwards commuted
to a close residence at Astracan. His dieportment
evinced an unaffected resignation to the lot which .
had befallen him, nor was it devoid of a maiily
exertioi) of spirit. In a tone of simple humility,
but strengthened by an eye which impressed irre-
sistible convic^on, he affirmed that, in the condi*
tipq wl^iph fqrtune h^d placed him, he experi-
enced a large portion of cpnient He had given

&13

roaSTEB S TRyliTSLB.

4 lA id0 ^eppiiy be said, to Uie iaipuUe of ambition^
and had gratified it by the aid of instrumeots he
BOW beheld with horror and disgust ; but adver-
sity bad at once extinguished every tumultuous
^ejC^ioPi and endowed him with fortitude^ and
the sober enjoy meat, of readout

Having made the nqc^ssary preparation for
xny journey, «and obtained a passport, with ao
iprder for post horses,* I was ready, on the lOtb
of May, to leave Astracan ; ^nd here it is incum-*
bjsnt on me to express cordial thantcs for the
hospitality and kindness shewn me by the gentle^
men of that city, especially to the honest Greeks
Ivan Andreitch, whose treatment of me, from tb^
day he took me up at Baku, to,vt\y departure fron)
iVstracan, was undeviatingly geiierous and afFec-^
tiQna,te. Nor must I omit the good officea of
Mn HannicofF, who expeditiously procured th^
necessary papers from the public ofBce, and gav^
^le letters of introduction to Cpunt Zchernicboff^
Ihft marine minister, and to Admiral Greig,

Mr. I^ong's goodness to me was manifold;
it anticipated all my wants, and, indeed, by an
anxious attention to my welfare, increased them ;;
whether in furnishing a store of provisions^ as

* This mstrum^nt is termed Pedrozchna, without which no
Persons can be supplied* with post-horsfes, the hire of which is
fceij'by govtrnment at the rite of iyfO copeaks, about a pennv
for etch horse jpcr yerst.

TORSTBB^S TftAYELS. ". SIS

4 V ' .

there are few bouses of fore ort the road, or irf
fortifying my travelling conveyance* against the
C£lsuakie$ of a long journey. The journey from
Astracan to Petersbtirgb having been quickly rim^
over, and wiihout a knowledge of the lariguage,>
you will necessarily suppose that ray observations
were limited and trivial. To qualify some of the
difficiiltieii which lay in my way, Mr. Hanniedff
furnished me with a list of the stages, and their
distances, which prevented the common imposi^^
tion of post-houses, and afforded me amuse*
ment. ^

Oi* the ISth of May, at midnight, having tra-
velled two hundred and fifty-eight miles, and two*
thirds, I arrived at Czaritsiri, where I was detain*
ed until the next morning, that my passport
m^ht be examined by the commandant. This
gentleman perceiving the embarrassmeat which
arose from my want of the Russian language;
entered with much good-nature into tlie story of
my little requisitions, and speedily- accommodated

* A four-virbecled carriage, called, in tlic Russian language^
a Kibitka. It^is fi^ed on the axles without springs, and is sue
feet long, and font in breadth, of the form of a cradle; about
a third part of it, towards the head, is covered with a tilt of
painted canvas, from the fore edge of which to the foot, a
leather covering is occasionally fixed in a sloping direction, as
^ shelter against the weathcc. This machine is supplied with
^ hedding, and contains, also, the requisite baggage of th9
jpassengcr. ...

S14 ^0»STT?»'« TEAVEM/

them, tfaoagb at Uie time he was* much oppressed
by sickness*

The country to Czaritsin is level, and thinly
inhabited ; yet its abundant herbage shewed the
8oil to be of a good quality. The garrison of this
fortress, which is independant of Astracan, con-^
»sts of three or four thousand men. Since the
frontier of Russia has been extended, on the
sooth-west, by the complete subjection of the
Cuban Tartars, and the acquisition of the Crimea^
this station is not considered of much military
account.

From the western bank of the Volga, and near
the fort of Czaritsin, a. chain of redoubts, of
about forty miles in length, strengthened by an
intrenchment, extends to the river Don ; but
which, from the like cause that has diminished
the importance of Czaritsin, is now of little utir
lity, and has been evacuated. It is said, that the
empress occasionally expresses a disposition to
open a channel between the two rivers, a design
which had been undertaken by the great Peter,
but frustrated by the unsuccessful issue of the
Turkish war, as well as certain difficulties whicb
attended the operation.*

The ground occupying this space, which I

♦ The. soil was found, in many places, to be mixed with tl
large portion of rock ; and the officer,' an Englishman, wh^
conducted the pUtn, was cut off by banditti.

PORSTEIt's TRAVELS,. ^1^

examined^ is chiefly composed of gravel or rock,
and apparently little higher than thf3 level of tb($
rivers. By opening thi^ p^ss^ge, ap inland navir
gatipn wQuld be effected from thp Bl&ck Sea tq
Siberia, by (he Qiediqm pf the river Katnah, whicl^
rises in tljat province, aad f^Us iptp the Volga,
^boiit forty pailps below (he city of Cfizaq ; ancl
the Russian marine, now established on the Blaci^
Sea,* wbiph has long beep a favoprite object m
Petersburgh, would receive from this cprnmupicar
tion a supply of cppcmipdities the most esseptial to
i.t3 support, ^ tipiber, irpn, cordage, apd f^anvd^i,
Such a passage intp the Euxine apd Medilerr^r
pean 9eas, from a country yielding a prpdpce sq
various an^ valuable, piay creatp a revolution
equally ipfiportant ixx the cpnimercial and pqlitica^
world ; apd enable Russia, npw indebted to fo-
reign nations for the m^-intenance of her trade^
to found within herself. a mart, whose happy situ-
ation is empowered to attract to a common centr^f
the commercp of Asia and Europe*

The day on which I left Czaritzin, the road
led along the southern bank ^f the Don, which
was wholly upipl^bit^d ; its current seemed to
run at the rate of one mile and a half an hour,
and the breadth to be about three hundred yards.
No occurrence of any moment befel me from

♦ The port of Kfirson.

3l6 fORSTfitt's TRAVfiLS.

Gzaritzin to Choperskoy Kreport,* a, distance ^f
two hundred and thirty-five miles and a quarter ;
unless it be noted, that so far from encountering-
any impediment, I received a general civility and
assistance. When you advett to the pr^icament
in which 1 stood, a stranger, alone; and unac-
quainted with thfe speech of the country, you
must yield a due portion of praise to the excel-
lency of the government, and the disposition of
the jpeople* %.

From Czaritsin extends a tract of uncultivated
land, of more tbaii one hundred miles, in the
direction of the road, on which no other habita-*
lion appears than huts^ for the accommodation
of those who keep the post horses ; but it shewi
no other testimony of a desert than the want of
inhabitants ; for the soil bears an exuberant her-
bage, and is not deficient in water. J

At the distance of a few miles from Choper-
iskoy, the driver t of the carriage alarmed me by
a report of the hinder axle being shattered ; an
accident which gave me an opportunity of observ-
ing the dexterity of a Russian carpenter in tbe
use of the axe. Without the help of ajay other
tool, except a narrow chissel, to cut a space in

* Kreport, in the Russian language, signifies a forU
+ He sit§ on a low seat, fixed oq t^e foVe ale.

t

9

the centime of it, for receivipg an iron bar which
supports the axle, and to piei;^e boles for the
linch-pins, be reduced in two bours a [^ece of
gross limber to the requisite form, and bis charge
was one shilling.

Travbllino one hundred and twenty rriiles
from tUs place, I arrived at the city of Tanboii^
not large, but populous, and generally well built,
the residence of a govertior, wbo examined and
put his signature to my passport. Thet country
was levels bearing little wood, and £*om Aatracaa
to this place I bad not seen a stone on its sur&ca
A heavy rain fell during the night of my depar**'
ture fi'om Tanboff, which caused an overflowing
of the adjacent brooks, in one of which the car*
riage sunk so deep, that the horses with every
effort could not drag it, thou:^ strenuously as^^
listed by the driver. This trivial event shouid
not have been intruded on you, did it not fend
to delineate the charadeif of a Russian peasants

After tryhig various methods to-extricate the
carriage in vain, and without a murmur, though
^um weather waa piercingly cold^ and he wa§
dripping wet, he loosened the horses, and yoking
tlaem to the hiaider pan of the carriage, he
brought it backwards to dry ground. He endea-
voured ta pass at another place, and was agaki
foiled j; yet he preserved an^enness of tenapei^

/

SI 6 FdkStBR's TKAyBL!{>

which I did not think our i3iature possessed. He
did not cease a moment from applying such aids
as were best , adapted to our relief ; nor once
shrqnk from a chilling wind and rain, which had
thrown qie into an ague ; but severe patience,
and an indurance of the roughest inclemency of
weather, are qualities with which the" peasant of
Russia is constitutionally^ endowed. Whilst we
were struggling against this difficulty, which seem-
ed to me remediless, a passenger leading some
horses, saw the embarrassment, and cheerfully
yoking two of them to the carriage, gave us
speedy relief.

On the 20th of May arrived at Moscow, dis*
tant from TanbofF three hundred and eighty-four
miles and one third. From the Volga to this
city I had hot seen any land so much elevated as
to merit the name of a hill, and but few stones
on the ground. The buildings in Russia^ with an
exception of some of tlie public Structures, and
houses of the principal people, are composed of
wood, which is so abundant a commodity, that in
many places it forms the streets of towns Vod
villages.

In the interior parts of the country, a few of

the churches have lately been built of brick, in

modern architecture, and shew a jus^ taste ; but

the old ones are all of wood, heavy ill shaped fa-

1

VORSTBR^S TRAVBtS. 319

brks, and hung around witb bells of all sizes^
^hich the priests^ who seem peculiarly fond of
their sound, keep in perpetual chime.

At eveiy halting-place, I must again notice^

the people treated me with invariable civility ;

inviting me into their houses during a ehange of

horses, and Mrpplying, at a moderate rate, thie

things which I wanted. The roads in Riisslay

during the dry season, are in good condition na*

turally ; for little labour is bestowed on them ;

which indeed, from the large tracts of intervenii^

wastes, would be impracticable. On dome days,

when the horses were strong, I have travelled from

one hundred and twenty, to one hundred and

thirty miles, over a country on which the eye

could perceive no elevation. The intervening

rivers 1 either passed on floating bridges or fenf

boats, there being no fixed bridge on the road

from Astracan to this city.

Osr approaching^ Moscow, its numerous and
lofty spires* shooting through extensive planta--
tions, exhibit a view equally picturesque and
mignificent. The gardens interspersed through
this city have given it a more extensive site
than is requisite to contain, perhaps, three timet

^ t was Informed that the s^teeples in Moscow amouot t»
lixteen hundred.

the numoer of it3 inhabitattts, who are compFnted
lit three or four hundred thousand*

The driver of the carriage couducted me to a
German hotel, whose manager, a very asaiduaus
and obliging person, apoke the English language
iuently, and though be had experienced a variety
- of fortunes, sooie of it very adverse, he bad ac*
quired but little knowledge of the world ; that is^
he was ill qualified to combat its iniqui tons pnu>
tices, or to derive an adequate profit from his
profession* By a creduUty and benevolence of
disposition, he had fallen a prey to many of the
foreign adventurers who infest Moscow^ amoog
whom I was mortified to see some of nrj^ own
countrymen 'numbered,

This good, simple publican, being withia my
knowledge an unique in his profession^ and as rare
objects are the grand pursuits of modern jcnir-
nalists, I could not pass this character without
introducing it to your notice; and I intreat,
should you ever visit Moscow, that you will mak4
search for ijpis honest German, and after thanks
ing him for his kindness to the Indian, say, that
^ be was very imprudent in depositing a trust with
a person whom he never saw before, nor could
reasonably expect to see again.

During the day of my halt, my host did iK)t
fail to procure me a view of those curiosities^

2

FOBSTISR's iRAVEtd; 3^1

Which most attract running travellers at this city,
but which having been already mi lUtely described^
do not require further illustration. Yet I must
make some mention of a bell^ the largest proba-
bly in the world, and expressive of the inordinate
passion of the Russian nation for this species of
sonorous instrument* It is composed of various
metalsy even of gold, and silver ; the height mea-
sures twenty-one feet, four inches and a quarter,
the diameter at the base, twenty-two feet, four
inches and thre^ quarters ; its weight, one hun-
dred and ninety-eight tons, two hundred and
twenty-eight pounds ; and its cost is computed at
sixty-five thousand, six hundred, and eighty-one
pounds. A fire many years ago destroyed the
building in which it was suspended, and falling to
the ground, where it has since remained, a piece
was broken from its side.

Moscow, though no longer the capital of the
empire, hath not felt those symptoms of decay,
which are seen to follow the deprivation of sove-
reign residence. Aware of the attachment of the
ancient nobility of Russia to this city, and also
that her spacious dominion required a second ca-
pital, Katherine hath strenuously endeavoured to
preserve its former importance; and the institu-
tions which have been established, have centered,
it is said, a greater portion of wealth and com-

VoL. II. y'

St2 ' foestbr's thatels*

merce in Moscow^ than it possessed before the
removal of the court

The superior kinds of Russian manufactures
are chiefly fabricated in this city from the rough
materials^ and are transported by water carriage
or caravans into the most distant quarters of the
empire. An ordinance so salutary ^iU essentially
contribute to fix the prosperity of Moscow, which
is also promoted by the residence of many of those
Russian nobles, who are not employed in the im-
mediate service of the state. They there indulge
that gaiety, dissipation, and pomp, in which tl^y
so much delight, at a less expence than at the
new capital.

Mr. Zchernichoff, the governor-general
of Moscow, ha^s acquired in the administratipa of
his office, a general good name, by the establish-^
ment of a vigorous police, and bestowing on the
city many ornaments. Standing high in fevourof
the empress, whom his family had strongly aided
in ascending the throne, his desires are considered
as equBl to those of the court ; and it may be
deemed equally conducive to the welfare of Mos-
cow, as that of the nation at large, that a subject
of such zeal and authority has be^n placed in so
eminent a station. The character of Mr. Zcher-
nichoif deserves the more distinguished notice, as
a shameless laxity and corruption are seen to pier*

for»tee's travels. Si3S

vade every office and department of this wide
empire, to counterpoise its powers, and warp the
direction of its natural policy.

Mr. Hannicoff having given me a letter to-
his brother at Moscow, I went to this gentleman's
house, where, with much mortification, I saw
every thing French. The furniture, the dress of
the family, its manners, and the preceptor of the
children were all French. The Russian gentry^
indeed, from whatever other quarter they have
drawn science and literature, have received a large
portiorf of their manners: from France ; and it is
evidently seen, that a connection cemented by so
strong a partiality, has occasionally attracted'
Russia from its constitutional bias, and infused a
spirit of policy inimical to its welfare. The pre-
valent use of the French language and manners
in most of the European courts, is not to be ac-
counted the least efficient instrument employed
by France, in conducting thai general system of
intrigue, which marks every measure of her go-
vernment, however trivial.
' I WAS received by the deputy-governor of Mos-
cow, to whom I applied for his signature to my
passport, in a manner little different from that of
an Asiatic chief to his dependent or inferior. He
had just risen from his siesta, and was sitting
dressed in a loose robe, on a sofa of silk, in the

y 2

S%4f YO^STER^S TRAVELS.

front of which I was directed to stand. He asked
me some questions on the subject of my journey
with more affability than I had expected from his
appearance, and the glitter of shew which sur-
rounded him. It is to be noticed, that the Rus-
sians of all ranks are of a sallow and brown com-
plexion ; few of them, even when young, having
a natural bloom of face ; this defect I am induced
to attribute partially to the excessive warmth of
their stoves^ and a frequent use of the hot bath,
which in Russia contains a more intense heat
than I had experienced in any country.

After dining with my German host, whose
attentions to me had been indefatigable, and his
charge moderate,- 1 left Moscow on the 20th of
May ; on the next morning I arrived at the town
of Klin, and breakfasted with an acquaintance of
my Moscow friend. This person, a German,
many of whom are scattered over this part of the
country, kept an inn ; but, he said, with little
success ; as the Russian gentlemen, in their jour-
nies, seldom frequent such houses, and the other
classes of people are withheld by their poverty.

The road from Moscow to Petersburgh, mea-
suring four hundred and sixty-nine miles and a
third, consists generally of a morass, and is con-
structed, with some interventions of ^olid ground,
of spars of fir, laid in a parallel direction, and
strewed over with earth ; this work was performed

pouster's travels. S25

by Peter I. for establishing a more easy commu-
nication between the interior provinces and his
new capital. This extensive wooden causeway,
founded on so unsubstantial a basis, must at the
first sight excite our surprize; but it will in a
great degree cease; when it is considered that
Russia abounds in timber, in robust vassals, and
that the great Peter conducted the operation.
My carriage, fixed immediately upon the axles,
shook me so violently in its progress over this
rough road, that I slept very little until the
evening before I reached Petersburgh, when,
being overpowered with fatigue, I lay down on a
bed at a post-house, desiring the driver to call
me at the expiration of two hours, but no one
came near me till the morning.

On the 25th of May, I entered Petersburgh,
and procured a commodious lodging at an Eng-
lish tavern. Mr. Shairpe, the British consul,
being informed of my story, invited me to his
house ; and his introduction to many of the Eng-
lish gentleman, at Petersburgh, enabled me to
pass very pleasantly a three weeks residence there;
he presented me also to our embassador,* whpse
favourable meqtion of me in England, was essen-
tially conducive to my welfare.

In so transient a visitor, it would be a manifest

♦ Mff Fit2herbert.

M^ foester's travels.

presumption to give any detailed account of this
] splendid city, or to describe its constitution or

laws. I y^'ill, however, notice sqch matter as its

•

more immediate projection forces on ordinary ob-
servation. The view of Petersbiirgh, adorne<i
with its numerous magnificent buildings, intersect-
led by spacious.and regular streets, im:part$ the
jconsequent pl^asiH'e of beholding a beautiful ob-
ject ; but when I looked on the period, removed
ionly at the distance of seventy years, when Jthis
spot, now covered by a proud city, resorted*tQ
by all the nations of. the European wprld, aj)d
enriched by an active commerce, was js^ dreary
morass, affording a miserable residence to a hordo
of rude fishermen. I was inspired with reverence
and wonder, when I reflected on ^he creatirQ
genius of the man who had accomplished so po-
tions a work. Other mon^rchs haye modelled
armies, aggrandised kingdoojs by conquest, or
gradual civilization ; but Peter at once dispelled
the eloud of barbarisQi, which involved bis co\xn-
try, and brought it forth to the astonished an4
applauding view of Europe.

Iris on this ground you must view Peters-
burgh, to render due justice to the meipory of
its founder, who in rearing this fabric, struggle4
with obstinate prejudice and enraged superstition;
but they fell before his commanding geqius.
Nor miist we forget that thirst of knowled^^

forst^r's travbls.

3^7

which carried him into foreign countries to court
their science, and practise their arts. This sub-
ject hath insensible produced a strain of writing,
too strongly I fear impregnated with that species
of colouring which njarks the composition of the
Asiatics, and indeed thieir ordinary conversation,
and which, by an antimate- connection with then>
for many years, has perhaps become habitual to
me. When you ^dvgrt, therefore, to the so-
cieties I have mixed in, and also to a warm in^-
pulse, which has pron^pted me to throw a laurel
at the l^row of Feter, I hope that this effer-
yescence of style will meet with an indulgent eye*

Frqm the dresses of the nobility, enriched by
a various display of jewels, their equipage an4
pompous rejtinue, the court of Petersburgh is said
to be the most brilliant in Europe ; and it should
seem, that the empress manifestly indulges^ (bis
disposition in the courtiers, whether from the;
congenial propensity of a female mind^ or an opi-
nion, that the intrigues and machinations wh^ch
she hais heretofore successfully practised^ will nol
deeply occupy the niinds of a people, iovolved in
luxury and dissipation^

The Russian geqtry, especially those attached
to the court, are either in debt, or thi^y expend

^ She has ^established at Petersburgh four Companies of
players, of different nations, French, German, Italian, ami
Ku^sian^ >vhich receive salaried froqi the pui^lic tre|sttry« '

.'J

. i

, ^ '

ISI8 PORSTBR's TBAVBL9.

the full amount of their revenue ; and if the tes-
timony of those who have made the experiment
is to be credited, we must believe in the extreme
venality of the ministers of government, however
averse to the. public welfare. The administration
of Count Panin gave a strong proof of this dispo^
sition. The French who have ever avowedly op-
posed the views of this empire, have afforded,
without reserve, assistance to its enemies, and
who, it is said, restrict its Mediterranean squa-
dron to eight ships of the line, possessed, du-
ring Panin's ministry, a leadings way in the Rus-
sian cabinet, which they rendered hostile to the
general interests of the empire. Since that period
Russia has adopted a more natural policy, and is
aware of the salutary expediency of forming a
cordial intercourse with the court of London.
It is noticed that the Russian gentry learn foreign
languages with aptitude, that they readily assume
the manners of those whom they visit, and
lay them aside* with equal facility ; and that
being a new people, they bear few marks of na-
tional originality ; but like a mass of ductile mat-
ter, receive the impression of objects in contact
with them.

Th e peasantry are marked with strong charaC'-
teristic features ; they are obediQnt, attached to
their superiors, and possess an obstinate courage ;
but they are addicted to petty th«fts, and tQ «m

rORSTE»'s TRAVELS. 329

excessive use of intoxicating liquors. It must
surely be held a reproach on the policy and
finance of a nation, when the largest branch of
its revenue is seen to arise from ah encourage-
ment of the ruling vices of the people; yet this
fact is fully exemplified in Russia, where two
capital imposts are laid on corn-brandy. It is
sold by government to the dealers, at a fixed
rate, from which a large profit is produced,
and a duty is collected from every person who
vends it.

Whatever censure the present Katherine
may have incurred in swerving from the cardinal
virtue of her sex, we must unreservedly say, that
she hath made'some atonement for that deviation
by establishing a wise and vigorous system of
government, by a liberal encouragement of the
arts, and an exercise of humanity to her subjects,
meriting the example of the most polished na-
tions. She possesses a munificence which has
much endeared her to her people, and which an
occasion of displaying happened some days before
my arrival at Petersburgh. Being informed that
an extensive pile of wooden buildings, appropri-
ated to the use of merchants and tradesmen, was
burning with violence, she immediately proceeded
to the spot, where exhorting the firemen to an
active exertion of their duty, she assured those
who had suffered by the conflagration, that the

S30 IFORSTEB's T^AVfiUt

buildings should be re«constructed at the pubiia
fxp^nsQ, and of more substantial materials.

Amonq the many monuments of grandeur
raised by Katherine, the most atti^acting is ai|
i^uestrian statue, erected to the memory of the
great Peter, i^hich is placed in front of the coun-
cil-house, and in a situation commanding a view
of the port ; nor have I seen any figure which
exhibits a bolder or more just aspect of nature,
except that of our first Charles in London. Jt
stands on a huge block of stone, whose summit
jilantipg, gives an ascending positipn to the horse,
pne of th,e hinder feet of which bruises the head
pf a serpent.* The figure of Peter looks towards
jhe Neva, having the right arm stretched forth
^itb an expanded hand, giving to all nations
encouragement and protection. Often did J-visit
this statue of Peter, and, in reviewing the stur
pendoiis wprk which his hand has raised, I have
gazed on it with admiration and delight ; and did
the tenets of my faith permit, Peter should be
chosen my tutelar saint,

PaulPetrotvitz, entitled the Grand Duke
of Russia, ^nd the only issue of the empress,
having been little brought forward to the public
potice, 'the essential parts of his character remaia

^ Emblematical of the malignant prejuilice9 which thU
prince encountered and overcome*

piOHSTER's TRAVELS*. 331

undeveloped. The foreigners who have access
to him say, that he is endowed with discretion, i^
beloved in his family, and observes a just punc-^
tuality in the discharge of his accounts, ft quality
the more deserving of praise, as it is rarely fouQ4
amon^ the nobility of Russia, who have become
notorious by an accumulation of debts, and a
common failure of payments. The grand duke
is the nominal president of the admiralty, thouglj
he does not officiate in that department, or pos?
sess any influence in the cabinet ; but aware of
the empress's jealousy of domestic interferencOi.
be lives wholly abstracted from husiness.

A GENTLE31AN, who had acquired a conr
yersant knowlfsdge of the court of Petersburgb,
observed to me that a female reign was mosf
favourable to the views of the Russian nobility;
it afforded a wider scope to their ambition,
avarice, and intrigue, which, under the eye of a
prince, especially if he were active, would neces-
sarily be limited, and that tl^ey would ever dislike
and strive to elude a male succession ;' nor does
this observation want proofs of support in the
four last reigns of this empire.

In closing these desultpry reniarks, I atn inr
duced to notice, that those Russians who have
not yet adopted the manners and dress of Europe,
?ind they probably include three-fourths of the

S3Z forster's fRAySL»«

nation, resemble the Asiatics, and particularly
Tartars, in many conspicuous instances. They
wear the long gown, the sash, and the cap ; and
they consider the beard as a type of personal
honour. The hot bath, as in Asia, is in common
use, even with the lowest classes of the Russians,
who perform also many ordinary ablutions not
practised by any northern people ; and, when not.
prevented by their occupations, they sleep at
noon. In the manner of Asia, the Russians ob-
serve to their superiors an extreme submission,
and their deportment is blended with a suavity of.
address and language which is not warranted by
their appearance, or the opinions generally form-
ed of them.

By imposing a. superior value on this quality,
the Russians, it should seem, have neglected to
cultivate the more essential virtues^ a want of
which is often experienced by the foreign mer-
chants, who have incurred heavy losses by their
M^ant of; faith. The copeck of Russia, a copper
coin, in name, and apparently in value, is the
same which was current in T^artary during the
reign of Timur ; and as the passage illustrating
this fact is curious, I will lay it before you.,

" The dearth was so great in the Tartar camp,
** that a pound of millet sold for seventy dinars
*^ coppghi, an ojc's he^d for a hundred, 9.nd a

FORSTKR's fRAV£L$« 353

"sheep's head fpr two hundred and fifty."*
This occurrence happened during the expedition
of Timur into Astracan, at a period of two hun-
dred years previous to the Russian acquisition of
that kingdom. Should a national connection be-
tween Russia and Tartary be ascertained, a re-
verse of the general progress of conquest, which
has been seen to stretch to the southward, will
will appear exemplified in the Russian nation^
who, penetrating into the higher parts of Eu-
rope, have fixed a capital in the sixtieth degree
of latitude. Embarking at Petersburgh, in the
' middle of June, on board of a trading vessel^
I arrived in England in the latter end of July.

Having now brought you to the close of a
long journey, the performance of which was
chiefly derived from a vigorous health, and a cer- ^

tain portion of perseverance, I bid you an affec-
tionate farewel ; and I trust, that you will never
have cause to impute to any of the various facts
which have been brought forward in the body of
the letters, the colour of passion, or the views of
interest. Amicus Plato, &c. The opinions de- •
duced from them, given by a man slenderly con-
versant in the higher classes of science, and who
has yet much to seek in the abstruser page of

• Shirriff ud Dein's History of Timur^ translated by Petit
de la Croix.

$34 i^ohst^r's travels.

buman life, I freely commit to year censure, as
also the manner of writing, which, I fear, will be
judged offensive to the chasteness distinguishing
the language of the present day.

THE END.

£• fi]acluulej> Priater> Took's Court| Cbaii€tr/»LMi««

I

«•£

tA t . <. £ :^a» ;f, »,\Sv 1

f C < J

Iff^